Difference between Jasper engines and rebuilt-jeep-engines
Guest
Posts: n/a
Difference between Jasper engines and rebuilt-jeep-engines
While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve seals
on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I did
this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I took
the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I also
placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a long
nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in the
cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the stem
back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The one
to the rear did not.
Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had done
on this valve.
However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only a
small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the same
method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released so
the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2 leak
down is bad.
Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some worse
problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might get
kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to option
#2.
Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it, bore
it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn around
is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in. They
charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000 mile
warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
http://www.jasperengines.com/
I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with RJE
or Jasper?
Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are welcome.
Thanks,
Bill
on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I did
this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I took
the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I also
placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a long
nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in the
cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the stem
back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The one
to the rear did not.
Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had done
on this valve.
However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only a
small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the same
method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released so
the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2 leak
down is bad.
Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some worse
problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might get
kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to option
#2.
Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it, bore
it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn around
is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in. They
charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000 mile
warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
http://www.jasperengines.com/
I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with RJE
or Jasper?
Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are welcome.
Thanks,
Bill
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Difference between Jasper engines and rebuilt-jeep-engines
Bill : I don't know anything about the other manufacture. But I do know
about Jasper's engines. I had a Gofer out of MN. go south on me and it only
had 19,910 miles on it. I can't remember the price but I know it wasn't
cheep and it was fixed up in the block welded and it let go and antifreeze
in the crank case. I don't need to tell you all about that, but they
wouldn't honor there work, not a nice conversation about it on the phone.
But I called Jasper about there's and had a long talk with them and I felt
that there ways of rebuilding sounded like they were pretty darn good. I
can't remember what my mileage is on it now ,but I'm impressed with it. If
the old engine had not had a crack in the block and I had your problem then
I would probably just find a really good engine builder and do that. Just
simply because if there were any problem's at least you could stand face to
face to them and get to the bottom of any problem's .
Jimmie: VP. North Iowa Off-Road Club.
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c04ti3$12qacq$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve seals
> on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I
did
> this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I took
> the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I also
> placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a long
> nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in the
> cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the stem
> back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The
one
> to the rear did not.
>
> Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had
done
> on this valve.
>
> However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only a
> small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the
same
> method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released
so
> the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
>
> In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2 leak
> down is bad.
>
> Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some
worse
> problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might
get
> kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to
option
> #2.
>
> Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it, bore
> it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn around
> is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
>
> Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in. They
> charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000
mile
> warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
>
> They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
>
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> http://www.jasperengines.com/
>
>
> I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with
RJE
> or Jasper?
>
> Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
about Jasper's engines. I had a Gofer out of MN. go south on me and it only
had 19,910 miles on it. I can't remember the price but I know it wasn't
cheep and it was fixed up in the block welded and it let go and antifreeze
in the crank case. I don't need to tell you all about that, but they
wouldn't honor there work, not a nice conversation about it on the phone.
But I called Jasper about there's and had a long talk with them and I felt
that there ways of rebuilding sounded like they were pretty darn good. I
can't remember what my mileage is on it now ,but I'm impressed with it. If
the old engine had not had a crack in the block and I had your problem then
I would probably just find a really good engine builder and do that. Just
simply because if there were any problem's at least you could stand face to
face to them and get to the bottom of any problem's .
Jimmie: VP. North Iowa Off-Road Club.
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c04ti3$12qacq$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve seals
> on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I
did
> this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I took
> the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I also
> placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a long
> nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in the
> cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the stem
> back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The
one
> to the rear did not.
>
> Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had
done
> on this valve.
>
> However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only a
> small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the
same
> method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released
so
> the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
>
> In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2 leak
> down is bad.
>
> Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some
worse
> problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might
get
> kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to
option
> #2.
>
> Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it, bore
> it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn around
> is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
>
> Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in. They
> charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000
mile
> warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
>
> They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
>
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> http://www.jasperengines.com/
>
>
> I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with
RJE
> or Jasper?
>
> Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Difference between Jasper engines and rebuilt-jeep-engines
Bill : I don't know anything about the other manufacture. But I do know
about Jasper's engines. I had a Gofer out of MN. go south on me and it only
had 19,910 miles on it. I can't remember the price but I know it wasn't
cheep and it was fixed up in the block welded and it let go and antifreeze
in the crank case. I don't need to tell you all about that, but they
wouldn't honor there work, not a nice conversation about it on the phone.
But I called Jasper about there's and had a long talk with them and I felt
that there ways of rebuilding sounded like they were pretty darn good. I
can't remember what my mileage is on it now ,but I'm impressed with it. If
the old engine had not had a crack in the block and I had your problem then
I would probably just find a really good engine builder and do that. Just
simply because if there were any problem's at least you could stand face to
face to them and get to the bottom of any problem's .
Jimmie: VP. North Iowa Off-Road Club.
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c04ti3$12qacq$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve seals
> on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I
did
> this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I took
> the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I also
> placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a long
> nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in the
> cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the stem
> back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The
one
> to the rear did not.
>
> Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had
done
> on this valve.
>
> However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only a
> small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the
same
> method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released
so
> the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
>
> In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2 leak
> down is bad.
>
> Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some
worse
> problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might
get
> kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to
option
> #2.
>
> Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it, bore
> it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn around
> is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
>
> Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in. They
> charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000
mile
> warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
>
> They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
>
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> http://www.jasperengines.com/
>
>
> I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with
RJE
> or Jasper?
>
> Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
about Jasper's engines. I had a Gofer out of MN. go south on me and it only
had 19,910 miles on it. I can't remember the price but I know it wasn't
cheep and it was fixed up in the block welded and it let go and antifreeze
in the crank case. I don't need to tell you all about that, but they
wouldn't honor there work, not a nice conversation about it on the phone.
But I called Jasper about there's and had a long talk with them and I felt
that there ways of rebuilding sounded like they were pretty darn good. I
can't remember what my mileage is on it now ,but I'm impressed with it. If
the old engine had not had a crack in the block and I had your problem then
I would probably just find a really good engine builder and do that. Just
simply because if there were any problem's at least you could stand face to
face to them and get to the bottom of any problem's .
Jimmie: VP. North Iowa Off-Road Club.
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c04ti3$12qacq$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve seals
> on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I
did
> this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I took
> the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I also
> placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a long
> nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in the
> cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the stem
> back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The
one
> to the rear did not.
>
> Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had
done
> on this valve.
>
> However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only a
> small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the
same
> method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released
so
> the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
>
> In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2 leak
> down is bad.
>
> Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some
worse
> problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might
get
> kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to
option
> #2.
>
> Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it, bore
> it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn around
> is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
>
> Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in. They
> charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000
mile
> warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
>
> They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
>
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> http://www.jasperengines.com/
>
>
> I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with
RJE
> or Jasper?
>
> Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Difference between Jasper engines and rebuilt-jeep-engines
Bill : I don't know anything about the other manufacture. But I do know
about Jasper's engines. I had a Gofer out of MN. go south on me and it only
had 19,910 miles on it. I can't remember the price but I know it wasn't
cheep and it was fixed up in the block welded and it let go and antifreeze
in the crank case. I don't need to tell you all about that, but they
wouldn't honor there work, not a nice conversation about it on the phone.
But I called Jasper about there's and had a long talk with them and I felt
that there ways of rebuilding sounded like they were pretty darn good. I
can't remember what my mileage is on it now ,but I'm impressed with it. If
the old engine had not had a crack in the block and I had your problem then
I would probably just find a really good engine builder and do that. Just
simply because if there were any problem's at least you could stand face to
face to them and get to the bottom of any problem's .
Jimmie: VP. North Iowa Off-Road Club.
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c04ti3$12qacq$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve seals
> on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I
did
> this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I took
> the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I also
> placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a long
> nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in the
> cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the stem
> back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The
one
> to the rear did not.
>
> Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had
done
> on this valve.
>
> However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only a
> small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the
same
> method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released
so
> the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
>
> In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2 leak
> down is bad.
>
> Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some
worse
> problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might
get
> kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to
option
> #2.
>
> Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it, bore
> it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn around
> is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
>
> Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in. They
> charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000
mile
> warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
>
> They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
>
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> http://www.jasperengines.com/
>
>
> I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with
RJE
> or Jasper?
>
> Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
about Jasper's engines. I had a Gofer out of MN. go south on me and it only
had 19,910 miles on it. I can't remember the price but I know it wasn't
cheep and it was fixed up in the block welded and it let go and antifreeze
in the crank case. I don't need to tell you all about that, but they
wouldn't honor there work, not a nice conversation about it on the phone.
But I called Jasper about there's and had a long talk with them and I felt
that there ways of rebuilding sounded like they were pretty darn good. I
can't remember what my mileage is on it now ,but I'm impressed with it. If
the old engine had not had a crack in the block and I had your problem then
I would probably just find a really good engine builder and do that. Just
simply because if there were any problem's at least you could stand face to
face to them and get to the bottom of any problem's .
Jimmie: VP. North Iowa Off-Road Club.
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c04ti3$12qacq$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve seals
> on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I
did
> this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I took
> the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I also
> placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a long
> nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in the
> cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the stem
> back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The
one
> to the rear did not.
>
> Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had
done
> on this valve.
>
> However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only a
> small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the
same
> method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released
so
> the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
>
> In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2 leak
> down is bad.
>
> Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some
worse
> problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might
get
> kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to
option
> #2.
>
> Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it, bore
> it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn around
> is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
>
> Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in. They
> charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000
mile
> warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
>
> They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
>
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> http://www.jasperengines.com/
>
>
> I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with
RJE
> or Jasper?
>
> Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Difference between Jasper engines and rebuilt-jeep-engines
Put down the tools and run away fast until the compression tester
comes....
A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak.
Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?
A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve
job. My guess still seems right...
I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the
mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and
likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.
That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve seals
> on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I did
> this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I took
> the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I also
> placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a long
> nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in the
> cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the stem
> back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The one
> to the rear did not.
>
> Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had done
> on this valve.
>
> However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only a
> small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the same
> method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released so
> the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
>
> In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2 leak
> down is bad.
>
> Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some worse
> problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might get
> kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to option
> #2.
>
> Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it, bore
> it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn around
> is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
>
> Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in. They
> charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000 mile
> warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
>
> They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
>
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> http://www.jasperengines.com/
>
> I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with RJE
> or Jasper?
>
> Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
comes....
A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak.
Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?
A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve
job. My guess still seems right...
I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the
mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and
likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.
That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve seals
> on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I did
> this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I took
> the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I also
> placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a long
> nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in the
> cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the stem
> back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The one
> to the rear did not.
>
> Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had done
> on this valve.
>
> However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only a
> small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the same
> method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released so
> the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
>
> In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2 leak
> down is bad.
>
> Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some worse
> problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might get
> kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to option
> #2.
>
> Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it, bore
> it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn around
> is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
>
> Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in. They
> charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000 mile
> warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
>
> They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
>
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> http://www.jasperengines.com/
>
> I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with RJE
> or Jasper?
>
> Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Difference between Jasper engines and rebuilt-jeep-engines
Put down the tools and run away fast until the compression tester
comes....
A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak.
Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?
A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve
job. My guess still seems right...
I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the
mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and
likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.
That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve seals
> on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I did
> this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I took
> the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I also
> placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a long
> nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in the
> cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the stem
> back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The one
> to the rear did not.
>
> Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had done
> on this valve.
>
> However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only a
> small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the same
> method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released so
> the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
>
> In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2 leak
> down is bad.
>
> Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some worse
> problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might get
> kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to option
> #2.
>
> Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it, bore
> it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn around
> is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
>
> Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in. They
> charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000 mile
> warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
>
> They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
>
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> http://www.jasperengines.com/
>
> I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with RJE
> or Jasper?
>
> Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
comes....
A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak.
Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?
A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve
job. My guess still seems right...
I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the
mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and
likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.
That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve seals
> on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I did
> this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I took
> the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I also
> placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a long
> nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in the
> cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the stem
> back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The one
> to the rear did not.
>
> Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had done
> on this valve.
>
> However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only a
> small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the same
> method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released so
> the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
>
> In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2 leak
> down is bad.
>
> Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some worse
> problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might get
> kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to option
> #2.
>
> Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it, bore
> it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn around
> is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
>
> Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in. They
> charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000 mile
> warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
>
> They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
>
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> http://www.jasperengines.com/
>
> I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with RJE
> or Jasper?
>
> Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Difference between Jasper engines and rebuilt-jeep-engines
Put down the tools and run away fast until the compression tester
comes....
A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak.
Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?
A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve
job. My guess still seems right...
I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the
mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and
likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.
That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve seals
> on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I did
> this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I took
> the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I also
> placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a long
> nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in the
> cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the stem
> back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The one
> to the rear did not.
>
> Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had done
> on this valve.
>
> However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only a
> small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the same
> method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released so
> the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
>
> In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2 leak
> down is bad.
>
> Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some worse
> problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might get
> kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to option
> #2.
>
> Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it, bore
> it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn around
> is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
>
> Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in. They
> charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000 mile
> warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
>
> They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
>
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> http://www.jasperengines.com/
>
> I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with RJE
> or Jasper?
>
> Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
comes....
A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak.
Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?
A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve
job. My guess still seems right...
I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the
mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and
likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.
That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve seals
> on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I did
> this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I took
> the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I also
> placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a long
> nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in the
> cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the stem
> back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The one
> to the rear did not.
>
> Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had done
> on this valve.
>
> However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only a
> small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the same
> method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released so
> the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
>
> In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2 leak
> down is bad.
>
> Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some worse
> problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might get
> kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to option
> #2.
>
> Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it, bore
> it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn around
> is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
>
> Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in. They
> charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000 mile
> warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
>
> They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
>
> http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> http://www.jasperengines.com/
>
> I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with RJE
> or Jasper?
>
> Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Difference between Jasper engines and rebuilt-jeep-engines
Thanks Mike for bringing humor to my otherwise difficult situation.
1. Yes, I'm the one at idle who had what I thought was ping. However, in
retrospect, I remember when I put the aluminum valve cover on it requred
studless rocker arm bridges which I changed out. I didn't take out the
rocker arm rods so I know they were in the correct place but I didn't return
the rocker arms back to the original place unless I got lucky. I didn't
know about the importance of returning used parts to the original places and
I'm suspecting this was causinging the noise. I fall to this because I took
the jeep to 2 shops and they could not hear a ping. One shop said the noise
was coming from the valve train and the other shop said I was chasing a
ghost (they did dyno testing and rebuilding there).
2. The valve with the "mushroomed top" was not mushroomed and it wasn't this
valve. There were all together about 6 valves which had this and this was a
little rim/lip big enough to cause a barrier to prevent the valve seal from
going on. A little light filing and that took care of that, the all went
on. Again, this was not on #2 cylinder.
3. I did a compression test with my cheezy flea market find compression
tester (works fine but doesn't keep the air pumped into the guage). This
gave me a reading of 100 psi across all cylinders except #2 which was 110.
I think when I get a good tester it will read closer to what the mechanic
read which was 150 psi.
So, you think the head can be reworked and I'm good to go? I'll go and get
a compression tester tomorrow (today tied up) and I don't mind doing the
work to replace the head if I'm sure it's the head. How can I be sure it's
the head that's the problem and not the rings?
Thanks,
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40264D3C.785FEF33@sympatico.ca...
> Put down the tools and run away fast until the compression tester
> comes....
>
> A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak.
> Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?
>
> A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
>
> I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve
> job. My guess still seems right...
>
> I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the
> mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and
> likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.
>
> That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
>
> I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve
seals
> > on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I
did
> > this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I
took
> > the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I
also
> > placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a
long
> > nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in
the
> > cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the
stem
> > back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> > play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> > exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The
one
> > to the rear did not.
> >
> > Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had
done
> > on this valve.
> >
> > However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> > tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only
a
> > small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the
same
> > method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released
so
> > the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> > Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> > tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
> >
> > In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2
leak
> > down is bad.
> >
> > Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> > replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> > work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> > The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some
worse
> > problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might
get
> > kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to
option
> > #2.
> >
> > Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it,
bore
> > it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn
around
> > is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
> >
> > Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in.
They
> > charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000
mile
> > warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
> >
> > They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile
warranty.
> >
> > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> > http://www.jasperengines.com/
> >
> > I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> > Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> > product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with
RJE
> > or Jasper?
> >
> > Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are
welcome.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
1. Yes, I'm the one at idle who had what I thought was ping. However, in
retrospect, I remember when I put the aluminum valve cover on it requred
studless rocker arm bridges which I changed out. I didn't take out the
rocker arm rods so I know they were in the correct place but I didn't return
the rocker arms back to the original place unless I got lucky. I didn't
know about the importance of returning used parts to the original places and
I'm suspecting this was causinging the noise. I fall to this because I took
the jeep to 2 shops and they could not hear a ping. One shop said the noise
was coming from the valve train and the other shop said I was chasing a
ghost (they did dyno testing and rebuilding there).
2. The valve with the "mushroomed top" was not mushroomed and it wasn't this
valve. There were all together about 6 valves which had this and this was a
little rim/lip big enough to cause a barrier to prevent the valve seal from
going on. A little light filing and that took care of that, the all went
on. Again, this was not on #2 cylinder.
3. I did a compression test with my cheezy flea market find compression
tester (works fine but doesn't keep the air pumped into the guage). This
gave me a reading of 100 psi across all cylinders except #2 which was 110.
I think when I get a good tester it will read closer to what the mechanic
read which was 150 psi.
So, you think the head can be reworked and I'm good to go? I'll go and get
a compression tester tomorrow (today tied up) and I don't mind doing the
work to replace the head if I'm sure it's the head. How can I be sure it's
the head that's the problem and not the rings?
Thanks,
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40264D3C.785FEF33@sympatico.ca...
> Put down the tools and run away fast until the compression tester
> comes....
>
> A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak.
> Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?
>
> A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
>
> I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve
> job. My guess still seems right...
>
> I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the
> mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and
> likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.
>
> That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
>
> I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve
seals
> > on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I
did
> > this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I
took
> > the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I
also
> > placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a
long
> > nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in
the
> > cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the
stem
> > back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> > play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> > exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The
one
> > to the rear did not.
> >
> > Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had
done
> > on this valve.
> >
> > However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> > tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only
a
> > small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the
same
> > method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released
so
> > the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> > Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> > tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
> >
> > In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2
leak
> > down is bad.
> >
> > Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> > replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> > work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> > The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some
worse
> > problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might
get
> > kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to
option
> > #2.
> >
> > Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it,
bore
> > it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn
around
> > is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
> >
> > Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in.
They
> > charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000
mile
> > warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
> >
> > They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile
warranty.
> >
> > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> > http://www.jasperengines.com/
> >
> > I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> > Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> > product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with
RJE
> > or Jasper?
> >
> > Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are
welcome.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Difference between Jasper engines and rebuilt-jeep-engines
Thanks Mike for bringing humor to my otherwise difficult situation.
1. Yes, I'm the one at idle who had what I thought was ping. However, in
retrospect, I remember when I put the aluminum valve cover on it requred
studless rocker arm bridges which I changed out. I didn't take out the
rocker arm rods so I know they were in the correct place but I didn't return
the rocker arms back to the original place unless I got lucky. I didn't
know about the importance of returning used parts to the original places and
I'm suspecting this was causinging the noise. I fall to this because I took
the jeep to 2 shops and they could not hear a ping. One shop said the noise
was coming from the valve train and the other shop said I was chasing a
ghost (they did dyno testing and rebuilding there).
2. The valve with the "mushroomed top" was not mushroomed and it wasn't this
valve. There were all together about 6 valves which had this and this was a
little rim/lip big enough to cause a barrier to prevent the valve seal from
going on. A little light filing and that took care of that, the all went
on. Again, this was not on #2 cylinder.
3. I did a compression test with my cheezy flea market find compression
tester (works fine but doesn't keep the air pumped into the guage). This
gave me a reading of 100 psi across all cylinders except #2 which was 110.
I think when I get a good tester it will read closer to what the mechanic
read which was 150 psi.
So, you think the head can be reworked and I'm good to go? I'll go and get
a compression tester tomorrow (today tied up) and I don't mind doing the
work to replace the head if I'm sure it's the head. How can I be sure it's
the head that's the problem and not the rings?
Thanks,
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40264D3C.785FEF33@sympatico.ca...
> Put down the tools and run away fast until the compression tester
> comes....
>
> A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak.
> Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?
>
> A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
>
> I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve
> job. My guess still seems right...
>
> I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the
> mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and
> likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.
>
> That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
>
> I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve
seals
> > on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I
did
> > this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I
took
> > the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I
also
> > placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a
long
> > nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in
the
> > cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the
stem
> > back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> > play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> > exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The
one
> > to the rear did not.
> >
> > Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had
done
> > on this valve.
> >
> > However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> > tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only
a
> > small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the
same
> > method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released
so
> > the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> > Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> > tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
> >
> > In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2
leak
> > down is bad.
> >
> > Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> > replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> > work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> > The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some
worse
> > problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might
get
> > kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to
option
> > #2.
> >
> > Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it,
bore
> > it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn
around
> > is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
> >
> > Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in.
They
> > charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000
mile
> > warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
> >
> > They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile
warranty.
> >
> > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> > http://www.jasperengines.com/
> >
> > I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> > Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> > product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with
RJE
> > or Jasper?
> >
> > Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are
welcome.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
1. Yes, I'm the one at idle who had what I thought was ping. However, in
retrospect, I remember when I put the aluminum valve cover on it requred
studless rocker arm bridges which I changed out. I didn't take out the
rocker arm rods so I know they were in the correct place but I didn't return
the rocker arms back to the original place unless I got lucky. I didn't
know about the importance of returning used parts to the original places and
I'm suspecting this was causinging the noise. I fall to this because I took
the jeep to 2 shops and they could not hear a ping. One shop said the noise
was coming from the valve train and the other shop said I was chasing a
ghost (they did dyno testing and rebuilding there).
2. The valve with the "mushroomed top" was not mushroomed and it wasn't this
valve. There were all together about 6 valves which had this and this was a
little rim/lip big enough to cause a barrier to prevent the valve seal from
going on. A little light filing and that took care of that, the all went
on. Again, this was not on #2 cylinder.
3. I did a compression test with my cheezy flea market find compression
tester (works fine but doesn't keep the air pumped into the guage). This
gave me a reading of 100 psi across all cylinders except #2 which was 110.
I think when I get a good tester it will read closer to what the mechanic
read which was 150 psi.
So, you think the head can be reworked and I'm good to go? I'll go and get
a compression tester tomorrow (today tied up) and I don't mind doing the
work to replace the head if I'm sure it's the head. How can I be sure it's
the head that's the problem and not the rings?
Thanks,
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40264D3C.785FEF33@sympatico.ca...
> Put down the tools and run away fast until the compression tester
> comes....
>
> A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak.
> Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?
>
> A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
>
> I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve
> job. My guess still seems right...
>
> I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the
> mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and
> likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.
>
> That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
>
> I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve
seals
> > on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I
did
> > this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I
took
> > the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I
also
> > placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a
long
> > nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in
the
> > cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the
stem
> > back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> > play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> > exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The
one
> > to the rear did not.
> >
> > Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had
done
> > on this valve.
> >
> > However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> > tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only
a
> > small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the
same
> > method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released
so
> > the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> > Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> > tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
> >
> > In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2
leak
> > down is bad.
> >
> > Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> > replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> > work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> > The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some
worse
> > problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might
get
> > kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to
option
> > #2.
> >
> > Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it,
bore
> > it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn
around
> > is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
> >
> > Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in.
They
> > charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000
mile
> > warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
> >
> > They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile
warranty.
> >
> > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> > http://www.jasperengines.com/
> >
> > I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> > Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> > product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with
RJE
> > or Jasper?
> >
> > Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are
welcome.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Difference between Jasper engines and rebuilt-jeep-engines
Thanks Mike for bringing humor to my otherwise difficult situation.
1. Yes, I'm the one at idle who had what I thought was ping. However, in
retrospect, I remember when I put the aluminum valve cover on it requred
studless rocker arm bridges which I changed out. I didn't take out the
rocker arm rods so I know they were in the correct place but I didn't return
the rocker arms back to the original place unless I got lucky. I didn't
know about the importance of returning used parts to the original places and
I'm suspecting this was causinging the noise. I fall to this because I took
the jeep to 2 shops and they could not hear a ping. One shop said the noise
was coming from the valve train and the other shop said I was chasing a
ghost (they did dyno testing and rebuilding there).
2. The valve with the "mushroomed top" was not mushroomed and it wasn't this
valve. There were all together about 6 valves which had this and this was a
little rim/lip big enough to cause a barrier to prevent the valve seal from
going on. A little light filing and that took care of that, the all went
on. Again, this was not on #2 cylinder.
3. I did a compression test with my cheezy flea market find compression
tester (works fine but doesn't keep the air pumped into the guage). This
gave me a reading of 100 psi across all cylinders except #2 which was 110.
I think when I get a good tester it will read closer to what the mechanic
read which was 150 psi.
So, you think the head can be reworked and I'm good to go? I'll go and get
a compression tester tomorrow (today tied up) and I don't mind doing the
work to replace the head if I'm sure it's the head. How can I be sure it's
the head that's the problem and not the rings?
Thanks,
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40264D3C.785FEF33@sympatico.ca...
> Put down the tools and run away fast until the compression tester
> comes....
>
> A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak.
> Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?
>
> A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
>
> I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve
> job. My guess still seems right...
>
> I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the
> mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and
> likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.
>
> That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
>
> I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve
seals
> > on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I
did
> > this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I
took
> > the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I
also
> > placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a
long
> > nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in
the
> > cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the
stem
> > back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> > play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> > exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The
one
> > to the rear did not.
> >
> > Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had
done
> > on this valve.
> >
> > However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> > tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only
a
> > small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the
same
> > method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released
so
> > the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> > Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> > tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
> >
> > In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2
leak
> > down is bad.
> >
> > Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> > replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> > work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> > The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some
worse
> > problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might
get
> > kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to
option
> > #2.
> >
> > Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it,
bore
> > it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn
around
> > is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
> >
> > Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in.
They
> > charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000
mile
> > warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
> >
> > They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile
warranty.
> >
> > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> > http://www.jasperengines.com/
> >
> > I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> > Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> > product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with
RJE
> > or Jasper?
> >
> > Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are
welcome.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
1. Yes, I'm the one at idle who had what I thought was ping. However, in
retrospect, I remember when I put the aluminum valve cover on it requred
studless rocker arm bridges which I changed out. I didn't take out the
rocker arm rods so I know they were in the correct place but I didn't return
the rocker arms back to the original place unless I got lucky. I didn't
know about the importance of returning used parts to the original places and
I'm suspecting this was causinging the noise. I fall to this because I took
the jeep to 2 shops and they could not hear a ping. One shop said the noise
was coming from the valve train and the other shop said I was chasing a
ghost (they did dyno testing and rebuilding there).
2. The valve with the "mushroomed top" was not mushroomed and it wasn't this
valve. There were all together about 6 valves which had this and this was a
little rim/lip big enough to cause a barrier to prevent the valve seal from
going on. A little light filing and that took care of that, the all went
on. Again, this was not on #2 cylinder.
3. I did a compression test with my cheezy flea market find compression
tester (works fine but doesn't keep the air pumped into the guage). This
gave me a reading of 100 psi across all cylinders except #2 which was 110.
I think when I get a good tester it will read closer to what the mechanic
read which was 150 psi.
So, you think the head can be reworked and I'm good to go? I'll go and get
a compression tester tomorrow (today tied up) and I don't mind doing the
work to replace the head if I'm sure it's the head. How can I be sure it's
the head that's the problem and not the rings?
Thanks,
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40264D3C.785FEF33@sympatico.ca...
> Put down the tools and run away fast until the compression tester
> comes....
>
> A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak.
> Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?
>
> A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
>
> I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve
> job. My guess still seems right...
>
> I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the
> mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and
> likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.
>
> That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
>
> I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I rechecked my valve
seals
> > on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect condition. When I
did
> > this I used the air compressor as before to hold the valve up while I
took
> > the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal. For each valve I
also
> > placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem and attached a
long
> > nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I released the air in
the
> > cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I can then move the
stem
> > back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I felt some noticeable
> > play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is intake and which is
> > exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L head had play. The
one
> > to the rear did not.
> >
> > Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong with the work I had
done
> > on this valve.
> >
> > However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm when the leak down
> > tester arrives and that is when I released the air from #2 I heard only
a
> > small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I checked #1 with the
same
> > method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms have been released
so
> > the valves are closed) and I got a very long hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> > Much different response. I'm going to confirm this with the leak down
> > tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
> >
> > In anticipation I have several options to remedy this situation if #2
leak
> > down is bad.
> >
> > Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5 cylinders are good,
> > replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done with it. A lot of
> > work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against the wall on time.
> > The only problem with this scenario is if I get in there and find some
worse
> > problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or equipment or might
get
> > kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it towed and go to
option
> > #2.
> >
> > Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the engine, clean it,
bore
> > it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k installed. Turn
around
> > is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
> >
> > Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place to put it in.
They
> > charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine with a 7 year 70,000
mile
> > warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to JasperEngines.
> >
> > They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year 36,000 mile
warranty.
> >
> > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> > http://www.jasperengines.com/
> >
> > I don't know why Jasper is double the price of rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> > Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the narrower scope of
> > product line they can offer a better price. Has anyone ever dealt with
RJE
> > or Jasper?
> >
> > Any advice or comments on this or other I have written above are
welcome.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
