I'm actually unsure of which lockers would require re-setting up the
gears and which wouldn't. I know some "lunchbox" automatically
engaging (read: always on) lockers can just be dropped in without
messing with the Ring&Pinion setup. Others do required messing with
it, though, as I understand it.

I knew I needed better gears (for my 33" tires and possible future
35") and wanted selectable lockers (ended up with ARBs front and
rear), so I just always planned on (and ended up) having the shop do
both at the same time, which saved on labor; they only had to open my
diff and mess with stuff in it all at once.

A note on putting a locker only in front. Yes, it will be less of a
problem in 2high on the road since it won't receive any torque input
and will stay unlocked. Yes, a rear automatic locker will drive
differently as it unloads around corners. However, if you ever have to
engage 4wd (such as on snowy/icy days), that front automatic locker
would likely make your jeep a beast to steer. Even if I'd gone the
automatic locker route rather than selectable, I would've put one in
the rear long before putting one in the front. It's difficult to steer
a rig in 4low that's locked in front, especially in high-traction 4x4
environments such as Moab's slickrock.

Ok I'm going to stop now, as I just realized I'm starting to
inadvertantly reopen the debate of front vs. rear lockers / selectable
vs. automatic lockers. Not a debate I'm trying to restart right now
;-). You can do plenty of google searches of old threads on this NG to
see where those sorts of debates have gone. =)

Good luck with what you decide!


"Tony M" <reddog01@metacrawler.com> wrote in message news:<B4rrc.141$o97.56@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
> I haven't had anything done with the gears. I have 3.73 from the factory (I
> think). Do the gears have to be changed with a locker? I have new BFG AT
> 31" now, and they work really well with this ratio.
>
> I'm really looking for a cost-effective way to get lockers, and still have a
> daily driver. I've heard a locker in front wouldn't affect driving on the
> street, but a locker in the back would be noticeable around corners and when
> it unloads.
>
> Tony
>
> "Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
> news:47b769ae.0405210606.7059adc4@posting.google.c om...
> > I once thought that would be cool, too. But that was because I wanted
> > my rear D44 up front and to put something like a Ford 9-inch in the
> > rear.
> >
> > I think the amount of work (if it is even possible) you're talking
> > about is more than its worth. Also, I'm pretty sure the axle tubes are
> > different sized, as well (in diameter). So you couldn't reuse the
> > front tubes with the 44 pumpkin. And you can use the tubes from the
> > rear, since the rear pumpkin is centered and the front is offset on
> > the driver-side. So you'd have to source some front D44 axle tubes,
> > anyway. And unless you got some out of a TJ, you'd also have to get
> > all the suspension mounts, etc. welded onto those tubes. You'd also
> > need to buy new D44 front axleshafts, as well (or again, find some
> > from a TJ with a front D44, which resricts you to either a junked
> > Rubicon or a custom built front D44 from another TJ.) What you're
> > proposing is just a huge can of worms, and I can't see how it would be
> > cost-effective.
> >
> > And, in your case, I especially would not do this. If you want a D44
> > front AND rear, and you already have one in the rear, you'd probably
> > stand a chance of getting away CHEAPER with getting a locker installed
> > in the rear, and buying a 44 for the front. Don't mess with trying to
> > move a perfectly fine rear 44 around.
> >
> > Do you already have the gears done? If not, you're gonna have to pay
> > someone to crack open that 44 and change out the gears (unless you
> > know how to do it yourself), anyway, and it costs nothing more in
> > labor to get a locker dropped in at the same time.
> >
> > Just my $0.02.
> >
> > /Bob
> >
> > "Tony M" <reddog01@metacrawler.com> wrote in message
> news:<7Bgrc.7429$dq4.339@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
> > > I have the factory D44 lsd in back and would like to get a locker. My
> plan
> > > is, if possible, to get a new D44 in back with a locker, and put the
> rear
> > > D44 I have now up front. Can a rear differential be made to work in the
> > > front?
> > >
> > > Ideal situation: 2 D44 electracs or air-actuated lockers, but that is
> sure
> > > to get a little pricy. Any diff upgrade suggestions are appreciated.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Tony

 

I'm actually unsure of which lockers would require re-setting up the
gears and which wouldn't. I know some "lunchbox" automatically
engaging (read: always on) lockers can just be dropped in without
messing with the Ring&Pinion setup. Others do required messing with
it, though, as I understand it.

I knew I needed better gears (for my 33" tires and possible future
35") and wanted selectable lockers (ended up with ARBs front and
rear), so I just always planned on (and ended up) having the shop do
both at the same time, which saved on labor; they only had to open my
diff and mess with stuff in it all at once.

A note on putting a locker only in front. Yes, it will be less of a
problem in 2high on the road since it won't receive any torque input
and will stay unlocked. Yes, a rear automatic locker will drive
differently as it unloads around corners. However, if you ever have to
engage 4wd (such as on snowy/icy days), that front automatic locker
would likely make your jeep a beast to steer. Even if I'd gone the
automatic locker route rather than selectable, I would've put one in
the rear long before putting one in the front. It's difficult to steer
a rig in 4low that's locked in front, especially in high-traction 4x4
environments such as Moab's slickrock.

Ok I'm going to stop now, as I just realized I'm starting to
inadvertantly reopen the debate of front vs. rear lockers / selectable
vs. automatic lockers. Not a debate I'm trying to restart right now
;-). You can do plenty of google searches of old threads on this NG to
see where those sorts of debates have gone. =)

Good luck with what you decide!


"Tony M" <reddog01@metacrawler.com> wrote in message news:<B4rrc.141$o97.56@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
> I haven't had anything done with the gears. I have 3.73 from the factory (I
> think). Do the gears have to be changed with a locker? I have new BFG AT
> 31" now, and they work really well with this ratio.
>
> I'm really looking for a cost-effective way to get lockers, and still have a
> daily driver. I've heard a locker in front wouldn't affect driving on the
> street, but a locker in the back would be noticeable around corners and when
> it unloads.
>
> Tony
>
> "Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
> news:47b769ae.0405210606.7059adc4@posting.google.c om...
> > I once thought that would be cool, too. But that was because I wanted
> > my rear D44 up front and to put something like a Ford 9-inch in the
> > rear.
> >
> > I think the amount of work (if it is even possible) you're talking
> > about is more than its worth. Also, I'm pretty sure the axle tubes are
> > different sized, as well (in diameter). So you couldn't reuse the
> > front tubes with the 44 pumpkin. And you can use the tubes from the
> > rear, since the rear pumpkin is centered and the front is offset on
> > the driver-side. So you'd have to source some front D44 axle tubes,
> > anyway. And unless you got some out of a TJ, you'd also have to get
> > all the suspension mounts, etc. welded onto those tubes. You'd also
> > need to buy new D44 front axleshafts, as well (or again, find some
> > from a TJ with a front D44, which resricts you to either a junked
> > Rubicon or a custom built front D44 from another TJ.) What you're
> > proposing is just a huge can of worms, and I can't see how it would be
> > cost-effective.
> >
> > And, in your case, I especially would not do this. If you want a D44
> > front AND rear, and you already have one in the rear, you'd probably
> > stand a chance of getting away CHEAPER with getting a locker installed
> > in the rear, and buying a 44 for the front. Don't mess with trying to
> > move a perfectly fine rear 44 around.
> >
> > Do you already have the gears done? If not, you're gonna have to pay
> > someone to crack open that 44 and change out the gears (unless you
> > know how to do it yourself), anyway, and it costs nothing more in
> > labor to get a locker dropped in at the same time.
> >
> > Just my $0.02.
> >
> > /Bob
> >
> > "Tony M" <reddog01@metacrawler.com> wrote in message
> news:<7Bgrc.7429$dq4.339@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
> > > I have the factory D44 lsd in back and would like to get a locker. My
> plan
> > > is, if possible, to get a new D44 in back with a locker, and put the
> rear
> > > D44 I have now up front. Can a rear differential be made to work in the
> > > front?
> > >
> > > Ideal situation: 2 D44 electracs or air-actuated lockers, but that is
> sure
> > > to get a little pricy. Any diff upgrade suggestions are appreciated.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Tony

 

I'm actually unsure of which lockers would require re-setting up the
gears and which wouldn't. I know some "lunchbox" automatically
engaging (read: always on) lockers can just be dropped in without
messing with the Ring&Pinion setup. Others do required messing with
it, though, as I understand it.

I knew I needed better gears (for my 33" tires and possible future
35") and wanted selectable lockers (ended up with ARBs front and
rear), so I just always planned on (and ended up) having the shop do
both at the same time, which saved on labor; they only had to open my
diff and mess with stuff in it all at once.

A note on putting a locker only in front. Yes, it will be less of a
problem in 2high on the road since it won't receive any torque input
and will stay unlocked. Yes, a rear automatic locker will drive
differently as it unloads around corners. However, if you ever have to
engage 4wd (such as on snowy/icy days), that front automatic locker
would likely make your jeep a beast to steer. Even if I'd gone the
automatic locker route rather than selectable, I would've put one in
the rear long before putting one in the front. It's difficult to steer
a rig in 4low that's locked in front, especially in high-traction 4x4
environments such as Moab's slickrock.

Ok I'm going to stop now, as I just realized I'm starting to
inadvertantly reopen the debate of front vs. rear lockers / selectable
vs. automatic lockers. Not a debate I'm trying to restart right now
;-). You can do plenty of google searches of old threads on this NG to
see where those sorts of debates have gone. =)

Good luck with what you decide!


"Tony M" <reddog01@metacrawler.com> wrote in message news:<B4rrc.141$o97.56@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
> I haven't had anything done with the gears. I have 3.73 from the factory (I
> think). Do the gears have to be changed with a locker? I have new BFG AT
> 31" now, and they work really well with this ratio.
>
> I'm really looking for a cost-effective way to get lockers, and still have a
> daily driver. I've heard a locker in front wouldn't affect driving on the
> street, but a locker in the back would be noticeable around corners and when
> it unloads.
>
> Tony
>
> "Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
> news:47b769ae.0405210606.7059adc4@posting.google.c om...
> > I once thought that would be cool, too. But that was because I wanted
> > my rear D44 up front and to put something like a Ford 9-inch in the
> > rear.
> >
> > I think the amount of work (if it is even possible) you're talking
> > about is more than its worth. Also, I'm pretty sure the axle tubes are
> > different sized, as well (in diameter). So you couldn't reuse the
> > front tubes with the 44 pumpkin. And you can use the tubes from the
> > rear, since the rear pumpkin is centered and the front is offset on
> > the driver-side. So you'd have to source some front D44 axle tubes,
> > anyway. And unless you got some out of a TJ, you'd also have to get
> > all the suspension mounts, etc. welded onto those tubes. You'd also
> > need to buy new D44 front axleshafts, as well (or again, find some
> > from a TJ with a front D44, which resricts you to either a junked
> > Rubicon or a custom built front D44 from another TJ.) What you're
> > proposing is just a huge can of worms, and I can't see how it would be
> > cost-effective.
> >
> > And, in your case, I especially would not do this. If you want a D44
> > front AND rear, and you already have one in the rear, you'd probably
> > stand a chance of getting away CHEAPER with getting a locker installed
> > in the rear, and buying a 44 for the front. Don't mess with trying to
> > move a perfectly fine rear 44 around.
> >
> > Do you already have the gears done? If not, you're gonna have to pay
> > someone to crack open that 44 and change out the gears (unless you
> > know how to do it yourself), anyway, and it costs nothing more in
> > labor to get a locker dropped in at the same time.
> >
> > Just my $0.02.
> >
> > /Bob
> >
> > "Tony M" <reddog01@metacrawler.com> wrote in message
> news:<7Bgrc.7429$dq4.339@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
> > > I have the factory D44 lsd in back and would like to get a locker. My
> plan
> > > is, if possible, to get a new D44 in back with a locker, and put the
> rear
> > > D44 I have now up front. Can a rear differential be made to work in the
> > > front?
> > >
> > > Ideal situation: 2 D44 electracs or air-actuated lockers, but that is
> sure
> > > to get a little pricy. Any diff upgrade suggestions are appreciated.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Tony

 

I will probably go with an EZ locker up front, hope I don't regret it....

I have 31" tires now, and may go up to 33", depending how often I go
wheeling. Would a 4.11 ratio work for this or is there a better choice?
What is involved changing the gear ratio (cost/labor)?

Thanks,
Tony

"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0405240553.565d43b5@posting.google.c om...
> I'm actually unsure of which lockers would require re-setting up the
> gears and which wouldn't. I know some "lunchbox" automatically
> engaging (read: always on) lockers can just be dropped in without
> messing with the Ring&Pinion setup. Others do required messing with
> it, though, as I understand it.
>
> I knew I needed better gears (for my 33" tires and possible future
> 35") and wanted selectable lockers (ended up with ARBs front and
> rear), so I just always planned on (and ended up) having the shop do
> both at the same time, which saved on labor; they only had to open my
> diff and mess with stuff in it all at once.
>
> A note on putting a locker only in front. Yes, it will be less of a
> problem in 2high on the road since it won't receive any torque input
> and will stay unlocked. Yes, a rear automatic locker will drive
> differently as it unloads around corners. However, if you ever have to
> engage 4wd (such as on snowy/icy days), that front automatic locker
> would likely make your jeep a beast to steer. Even if I'd gone the
> automatic locker route rather than selectable, I would've put one in
> the rear long before putting one in the front. It's difficult to steer
> a rig in 4low that's locked in front, especially in high-traction 4x4
> environments such as Moab's slickrock.
>
> Ok I'm going to stop now, as I just realized I'm starting to
> inadvertantly reopen the debate of front vs. rear lockers / selectable
> vs. automatic lockers. Not a debate I'm trying to restart right now
> ;-). You can do plenty of google searches of old threads on this NG to
> see where those sorts of debates have gone. =)
>
> Good luck with what you decide!
>
>
> "Tony M" <reddog01@metacrawler.com> wrote in message
news:<B4rrc.141$o97.56@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
> > I haven't had anything done with the gears. I have 3.73 from the
factory (I
> > think). Do the gears have to be changed with a locker? I have new BFG
AT
> > 31" now, and they work really well with this ratio.
> >
> > I'm really looking for a cost-effective way to get lockers, and still
have a
> > daily driver. I've heard a locker in front wouldn't affect driving on
the
> > street, but a locker in the back would be noticeable around corners and
when
> > it unloads.
> >
> > Tony
> >
> > "Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
> > news:47b769ae.0405210606.7059adc4@posting.google.c om...
> > > I once thought that would be cool, too. But that was because I wanted
> > > my rear D44 up front and to put something like a Ford 9-inch in the
> > > rear.
> > >
> > > I think the amount of work (if it is even possible) you're talking
> > > about is more than its worth. Also, I'm pretty sure the axle tubes are
> > > different sized, as well (in diameter). So you couldn't reuse the
> > > front tubes with the 44 pumpkin. And you can use the tubes from the
> > > rear, since the rear pumpkin is centered and the front is offset on
> > > the driver-side. So you'd have to source some front D44 axle tubes,
> > > anyway. And unless you got some out of a TJ, you'd also have to get
> > > all the suspension mounts, etc. welded onto those tubes. You'd also
> > > need to buy new D44 front axleshafts, as well (or again, find some
> > > from a TJ with a front D44, which resricts you to either a junked
> > > Rubicon or a custom built front D44 from another TJ.) What you're
> > > proposing is just a huge can of worms, and I can't see how it would be
> > > cost-effective.
> > >
> > > And, in your case, I especially would not do this. If you want a D44
> > > front AND rear, and you already have one in the rear, you'd probably
> > > stand a chance of getting away CHEAPER with getting a locker installed
> > > in the rear, and buying a 44 for the front. Don't mess with trying to
> > > move a perfectly fine rear 44 around.
> > >
> > > Do you already have the gears done? If not, you're gonna have to pay
> > > someone to crack open that 44 and change out the gears (unless you
> > > know how to do it yourself), anyway, and it costs nothing more in
> > > labor to get a locker dropped in at the same time.
> > >
> > > Just my $0.02.
> > >
> > > /Bob
> > >
> > > "Tony M" <reddog01@metacrawler.com> wrote in message
> > news:<7Bgrc.7429$dq4.339@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
> > > > I have the factory D44 lsd in back and would like to get a locker.
My
> > plan
> > > > is, if possible, to get a new D44 in back with a locker, and put the
> > rear
> > > > D44 I have now up front. Can a rear differential be made to work in
the
> > > > front?
> > > >
> > > > Ideal situation: 2 D44 electracs or air-actuated lockers, but that
is
> > sure
> > > > to get a little pricy. Any diff upgrade suggestions are
appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Tony

 

I will probably go with an EZ locker up front, hope I don't regret it....

I have 31" tires now, and may go up to 33", depending how often I go
wheeling. Would a 4.11 ratio work for this or is there a better choice?
What is involved changing the gear ratio (cost/labor)?

Thanks,
Tony

"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0405240553.565d43b5@posting.google.c om...
> I'm actually unsure of which lockers would require re-setting up the
> gears and which wouldn't. I know some "lunchbox" automatically
> engaging (read: always on) lockers can just be dropped in without
> messing with the Ring&Pinion setup. Others do required messing with
> it, though, as I understand it.
>
> I knew I needed better gears (for my 33" tires and possible future
> 35") and wanted selectable lockers (ended up with ARBs front and
> rear), so I just always planned on (and ended up) having the shop do
> both at the same time, which saved on labor; they only had to open my
> diff and mess with stuff in it all at once.
>
> A note on putting a locker only in front. Yes, it will be less of a
> problem in 2high on the road since it won't receive any torque input
> and will stay unlocked. Yes, a rear automatic locker will drive
> differently as it unloads around corners. However, if you ever have to
> engage 4wd (such as on snowy/icy days), that front automatic locker
> would likely make your jeep a beast to steer. Even if I'd gone the
> automatic locker route rather than selectable, I would've put one in
> the rear long before putting one in the front. It's difficult to steer
> a rig in 4low that's locked in front, especially in high-traction 4x4
> environments such as Moab's slickrock.
>
> Ok I'm going to stop now, as I just realized I'm starting to
> inadvertantly reopen the debate of front vs. rear lockers / selectable
> vs. automatic lockers. Not a debate I'm trying to restart right now
> ;-). You can do plenty of google searches of old threads on this NG to
> see where those sorts of debates have gone. =)
>
> Good luck with what you decide!
>
>
> "Tony M" <reddog01@metacrawler.com> wrote in message
news:<B4rrc.141$o97.56@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
> > I haven't had anything done with the gears. I have 3.73 from the
factory (I
> > think). Do the gears have to be changed with a locker? I have new BFG
AT
> > 31" now, and they work really well with this ratio.
> >
> > I'm really looking for a cost-effective way to get lockers, and still
have a
> > daily driver. I've heard a locker in front wouldn't affect driving on
the
> > street, but a locker in the back would be noticeable around corners and
when
> > it unloads.
> >
> > Tony
> >
> > "Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
> > news:47b769ae.0405210606.7059adc4@posting.google.c om...
> > > I once thought that would be cool, too. But that was because I wanted
> > > my rear D44 up front and to put something like a Ford 9-inch in the
> > > rear.
> > >
> > > I think the amount of work (if it is even possible) you're talking
> > > about is more than its worth. Also, I'm pretty sure the axle tubes are
> > > different sized, as well (in diameter). So you couldn't reuse the
> > > front tubes with the 44 pumpkin. And you can use the tubes from the
> > > rear, since the rear pumpkin is centered and the front is offset on
> > > the driver-side. So you'd have to source some front D44 axle tubes,
> > > anyway. And unless you got some out of a TJ, you'd also have to get
> > > all the suspension mounts, etc. welded onto those tubes. You'd also
> > > need to buy new D44 front axleshafts, as well (or again, find some
> > > from a TJ with a front D44, which resricts you to either a junked
> > > Rubicon or a custom built front D44 from another TJ.) What you're
> > > proposing is just a huge can of worms, and I can't see how it would be
> > > cost-effective.
> > >
> > > And, in your case, I especially would not do this. If you want a D44
> > > front AND rear, and you already have one in the rear, you'd probably
> > > stand a chance of getting away CHEAPER with getting a locker installed
> > > in the rear, and buying a 44 for the front. Don't mess with trying to
> > > move a perfectly fine rear 44 around.
> > >
> > > Do you already have the gears done? If not, you're gonna have to pay
> > > someone to crack open that 44 and change out the gears (unless you
> > > know how to do it yourself), anyway, and it costs nothing more in
> > > labor to get a locker dropped in at the same time.
> > >
> > > Just my $0.02.
> > >
> > > /Bob
> > >
> > > "Tony M" <reddog01@metacrawler.com> wrote in message
> > news:<7Bgrc.7429$dq4.339@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
> > > > I have the factory D44 lsd in back and would like to get a locker.
My
> > plan
> > > > is, if possible, to get a new D44 in back with a locker, and put the
> > rear
> > > > D44 I have now up front. Can a rear differential be made to work in
the
> > > > front?
> > > >
> > > > Ideal situation: 2 D44 electracs or air-actuated lockers, but that
is
> > sure
> > > > to get a little pricy. Any diff upgrade suggestions are
appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Tony

 

I will probably go with an EZ locker up front, hope I don't regret it....

I have 31" tires now, and may go up to 33", depending how often I go
wheeling. Would a 4.11 ratio work for this or is there a better choice?
What is involved changing the gear ratio (cost/labor)?

Thanks,
Tony

"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0405240553.565d43b5@posting.google.c om...
> I'm actually unsure of which lockers would require re-setting up the
> gears and which wouldn't. I know some "lunchbox" automatically
> engaging (read: always on) lockers can just be dropped in without
> messing with the Ring&Pinion setup. Others do required messing with
> it, though, as I understand it.
>
> I knew I needed better gears (for my 33" tires and possible future
> 35") and wanted selectable lockers (ended up with ARBs front and
> rear), so I just always planned on (and ended up) having the shop do
> both at the same time, which saved on labor; they only had to open my
> diff and mess with stuff in it all at once.
>
> A note on putting a locker only in front. Yes, it will be less of a
> problem in 2high on the road since it won't receive any torque input
> and will stay unlocked. Yes, a rear automatic locker will drive
> differently as it unloads around corners. However, if you ever have to
> engage 4wd (such as on snowy/icy days), that front automatic locker
> would likely make your jeep a beast to steer. Even if I'd gone the
> automatic locker route rather than selectable, I would've put one in
> the rear long before putting one in the front. It's difficult to steer
> a rig in 4low that's locked in front, especially in high-traction 4x4
> environments such as Moab's slickrock.
>
> Ok I'm going to stop now, as I just realized I'm starting to
> inadvertantly reopen the debate of front vs. rear lockers / selectable
> vs. automatic lockers. Not a debate I'm trying to restart right now
> ;-). You can do plenty of google searches of old threads on this NG to
> see where those sorts of debates have gone. =)
>
> Good luck with what you decide!
>
>
> "Tony M" <reddog01@metacrawler.com> wrote in message
news:<B4rrc.141$o97.56@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
> > I haven't had anything done with the gears. I have 3.73 from the
factory (I
> > think). Do the gears have to be changed with a locker? I have new BFG
AT
> > 31" now, and they work really well with this ratio.
> >
> > I'm really looking for a cost-effective way to get lockers, and still
have a
> > daily driver. I've heard a locker in front wouldn't affect driving on
the
> > street, but a locker in the back would be noticeable around corners and
when
> > it unloads.
> >
> > Tony
> >
> > "Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
> > news:47b769ae.0405210606.7059adc4@posting.google.c om...
> > > I once thought that would be cool, too. But that was because I wanted
> > > my rear D44 up front and to put something like a Ford 9-inch in the
> > > rear.
> > >
> > > I think the amount of work (if it is even possible) you're talking
> > > about is more than its worth. Also, I'm pretty sure the axle tubes are
> > > different sized, as well (in diameter). So you couldn't reuse the
> > > front tubes with the 44 pumpkin. And you can use the tubes from the
> > > rear, since the rear pumpkin is centered and the front is offset on
> > > the driver-side. So you'd have to source some front D44 axle tubes,
> > > anyway. And unless you got some out of a TJ, you'd also have to get
> > > all the suspension mounts, etc. welded onto those tubes. You'd also
> > > need to buy new D44 front axleshafts, as well (or again, find some
> > > from a TJ with a front D44, which resricts you to either a junked
> > > Rubicon or a custom built front D44 from another TJ.) What you're
> > > proposing is just a huge can of worms, and I can't see how it would be
> > > cost-effective.
> > >
> > > And, in your case, I especially would not do this. If you want a D44
> > > front AND rear, and you already have one in the rear, you'd probably
> > > stand a chance of getting away CHEAPER with getting a locker installed
> > > in the rear, and buying a 44 for the front. Don't mess with trying to
> > > move a perfectly fine rear 44 around.
> > >
> > > Do you already have the gears done? If not, you're gonna have to pay
> > > someone to crack open that 44 and change out the gears (unless you
> > > know how to do it yourself), anyway, and it costs nothing more in
> > > labor to get a locker dropped in at the same time.
> > >
> > > Just my $0.02.
> > >
> > > /Bob
> > >
> > > "Tony M" <reddog01@metacrawler.com> wrote in message
> > news:<7Bgrc.7429$dq4.339@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
> > > > I have the factory D44 lsd in back and would like to get a locker.
My
> > plan
> > > > is, if possible, to get a new D44 in back with a locker, and put the
> > rear
> > > > D44 I have now up front. Can a rear differential be made to work in
the
> > > > front?
> > > >
> > > > Ideal situation: 2 D44 electracs or air-actuated lockers, but that
is
> > sure
> > > > to get a little pricy. Any diff upgrade suggestions are
appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Tony

 

I will probably go with an EZ locker up front, hope I don't regret it....

I have 31" tires now, and may go up to 33", depending how often I go
wheeling. Would a 4.11 ratio work for this or is there a better choice?
What is involved changing the gear ratio (cost/labor)?

Thanks,
Tony

"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0405240553.565d43b5@posting.google.c om...
> I'm actually unsure of which lockers would require re-setting up the
> gears and which wouldn't. I know some "lunchbox" automatically
> engaging (read: always on) lockers can just be dropped in without
> messing with the Ring&Pinion setup. Others do required messing with
> it, though, as I understand it.
>
> I knew I needed better gears (for my 33" tires and possible future
> 35") and wanted selectable lockers (ended up with ARBs front and
> rear), so I just always planned on (and ended up) having the shop do
> both at the same time, which saved on labor; they only had to open my
> diff and mess with stuff in it all at once.
>
> A note on putting a locker only in front. Yes, it will be less of a
> problem in 2high on the road since it won't receive any torque input
> and will stay unlocked. Yes, a rear automatic locker will drive
> differently as it unloads around corners. However, if you ever have to
> engage 4wd (such as on snowy/icy days), that front automatic locker
> would likely make your jeep a beast to steer. Even if I'd gone the
> automatic locker route rather than selectable, I would've put one in
> the rear long before putting one in the front. It's difficult to steer
> a rig in 4low that's locked in front, especially in high-traction 4x4
> environments such as Moab's slickrock.
>
> Ok I'm going to stop now, as I just realized I'm starting to
> inadvertantly reopen the debate of front vs. rear lockers / selectable
> vs. automatic lockers. Not a debate I'm trying to restart right now
> ;-). You can do plenty of google searches of old threads on this NG to
> see where those sorts of debates have gone. =)
>
> Good luck with what you decide!
>
>
> "Tony M" <reddog01@metacrawler.com> wrote in message
news:<B4rrc.141$o97.56@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
> > I haven't had anything done with the gears. I have 3.73 from the
factory (I
> > think). Do the gears have to be changed with a locker? I have new BFG
AT
> > 31" now, and they work really well with this ratio.
> >
> > I'm really looking for a cost-effective way to get lockers, and still
have a
> > daily driver. I've heard a locker in front wouldn't affect driving on
the
> > street, but a locker in the back would be noticeable around corners and
when
> > it unloads.
> >
> > Tony
> >
> > "Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
> > news:47b769ae.0405210606.7059adc4@posting.google.c om...
> > > I once thought that would be cool, too. But that was because I wanted
> > > my rear D44 up front and to put something like a Ford 9-inch in the
> > > rear.
> > >
> > > I think the amount of work (if it is even possible) you're talking
> > > about is more than its worth. Also, I'm pretty sure the axle tubes are
> > > different sized, as well (in diameter). So you couldn't reuse the
> > > front tubes with the 44 pumpkin. And you can use the tubes from the
> > > rear, since the rear pumpkin is centered and the front is offset on
> > > the driver-side. So you'd have to source some front D44 axle tubes,
> > > anyway. And unless you got some out of a TJ, you'd also have to get
> > > all the suspension mounts, etc. welded onto those tubes. You'd also
> > > need to buy new D44 front axleshafts, as well (or again, find some
> > > from a TJ with a front D44, which resricts you to either a junked
> > > Rubicon or a custom built front D44 from another TJ.) What you're
> > > proposing is just a huge can of worms, and I can't see how it would be
> > > cost-effective.
> > >
> > > And, in your case, I especially would not do this. If you want a D44
> > > front AND rear, and you already have one in the rear, you'd probably
> > > stand a chance of getting away CHEAPER with getting a locker installed
> > > in the rear, and buying a 44 for the front. Don't mess with trying to
> > > move a perfectly fine rear 44 around.
> > >
> > > Do you already have the gears done? If not, you're gonna have to pay
> > > someone to crack open that 44 and change out the gears (unless you
> > > know how to do it yourself), anyway, and it costs nothing more in
> > > labor to get a locker dropped in at the same time.
> > >
> > > Just my $0.02.
> > >
> > > /Bob
> > >
> > > "Tony M" <reddog01@metacrawler.com> wrote in message
> > news:<7Bgrc.7429$dq4.339@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>...
> > > > I have the factory D44 lsd in back and would like to get a locker.
My
> > plan
> > > > is, if possible, to get a new D44 in back with a locker, and put the
> > rear
> > > > D44 I have now up front. Can a rear differential be made to work in
the
> > > > front?
> > > >
> > > > Ideal situation: 2 D44 electracs or air-actuated lockers, but that
is
> > sure
> > > > to get a little pricy. Any diff upgrade suggestions are
appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Tony