Dead Battery (Alternator?) 1997 Jeep Wrangler...
02-19-2007, 10:40 AM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Battery (Alternator?) 1997 Jeep Wrangler...
Heh, I would have aimed him at the connections he replaced first....
The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections
today on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights
dimming and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up!
That implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel
isn't getting good enough power.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
RoyJ wrote:
> I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
> would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
> ground strap!
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike does.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
>>
>>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
>>>
>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>>>
>>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
>>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole system
>>
>> is
>>
>>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
>>>> alternator to the battery.
>>>>
>>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
>>
>> lights
>>
>>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
>>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
>>>>
>>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
>>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
>>
>> free.
>>
>>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals and
>>
>> get
>>
>>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
>>>> the
>>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
>>>>
>>>> EganReich wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
>>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
>>>>>
>>>>> Ok.
>>>>>
>>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
>>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
>>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to steal
>>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
>>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the wires.
>>>>>
>>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
>>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
>>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light coming
>>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
>>>>> running.
>>>>>
>>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I had
>>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
>>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
>>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
>>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
>>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
>>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs for
>>>>> a short time.
>>>>>
>>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
>>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the car
>>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
>>>>>
>>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
>>>>> connection from the battery? What?
>>>>>
>>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
>>>>>
>>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections
today on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights
dimming and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up!
That implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel
isn't getting good enough power.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
RoyJ wrote:
> I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
> would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
> ground strap!
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike does.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
>>
>>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
>>>
>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>>>
>>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
>>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole system
>>
>> is
>>
>>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
>>>> alternator to the battery.
>>>>
>>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
>>
>> lights
>>
>>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
>>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
>>>>
>>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
>>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
>>
>> free.
>>
>>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals and
>>
>> get
>>
>>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
>>>> the
>>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
>>>>
>>>> EganReich wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
>>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
>>>>>
>>>>> Ok.
>>>>>
>>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
>>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
>>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to steal
>>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
>>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the wires.
>>>>>
>>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
>>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
>>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light coming
>>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
>>>>> running.
>>>>>
>>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I had
>>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
>>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
>>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
>>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
>>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
>>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs for
>>>>> a short time.
>>>>>
>>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
>>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the car
>>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
>>>>>
>>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
>>>>> connection from the battery? What?
>>>>>
>>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
>>>>>
>>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
02-19-2007, 10:40 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Battery (Alternator?) 1997 Jeep Wrangler...
Heh, I would have aimed him at the connections he replaced first....
The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections
today on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights
dimming and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up!
That implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel
isn't getting good enough power.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
RoyJ wrote:
> I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
> would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
> ground strap!
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike does.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
>>
>>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
>>>
>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>>>
>>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
>>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole system
>>
>> is
>>
>>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
>>>> alternator to the battery.
>>>>
>>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
>>
>> lights
>>
>>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
>>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
>>>>
>>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
>>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
>>
>> free.
>>
>>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals and
>>
>> get
>>
>>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
>>>> the
>>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
>>>>
>>>> EganReich wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
>>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
>>>>>
>>>>> Ok.
>>>>>
>>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
>>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
>>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to steal
>>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
>>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the wires.
>>>>>
>>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
>>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
>>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light coming
>>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
>>>>> running.
>>>>>
>>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I had
>>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
>>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
>>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
>>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
>>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
>>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs for
>>>>> a short time.
>>>>>
>>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
>>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the car
>>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
>>>>>
>>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
>>>>> connection from the battery? What?
>>>>>
>>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
>>>>>
>>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections
today on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights
dimming and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up!
That implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel
isn't getting good enough power.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
RoyJ wrote:
> I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
> would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
> ground strap!
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike does.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
>>
>>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
>>>
>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>>>
>>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
>>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole system
>>
>> is
>>
>>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
>>>> alternator to the battery.
>>>>
>>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
>>
>> lights
>>
>>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
>>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
>>>>
>>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
>>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
>>
>> free.
>>
>>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals and
>>
>> get
>>
>>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
>>>> the
>>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
>>>>
>>>> EganReich wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
>>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
>>>>>
>>>>> Ok.
>>>>>
>>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
>>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
>>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to steal
>>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
>>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the wires.
>>>>>
>>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
>>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
>>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light coming
>>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
>>>>> running.
>>>>>
>>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I had
>>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
>>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
>>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
>>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
>>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
>>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs for
>>>>> a short time.
>>>>>
>>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
>>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the car
>>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
>>>>>
>>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
>>>>> connection from the battery? What?
>>>>>
>>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
>>>>>
>>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
02-19-2007, 10:56 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Battery (Alternator?) 1997 Jeep Wrangler...
You can get a molded battery cable with a pigtail for the small one, but
they are hard to find. Some people run a wire to the big starter terminal
to avoid having two wires in that clamp.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d9c478$0$18167$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> Heh, I would have aimed him at the connections he replaced first....
>
> The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
> two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
>
> As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections
> today on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights
> dimming and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
>
> The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up!
> That implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel
> isn't getting good enough power.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> > I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
> > would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
> > ground strap!
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike
does.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
> >> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
> >>
> >>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
> >>>
> >>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> >>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> >>>
> >>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
> >>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole
system
> >>
> >> is
> >>
> >>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
> >>>> alternator to the battery.
> >>>>
> >>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
> >>
> >> lights
> >>
> >>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
> >>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
> >>>>
> >>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
> >>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
> >>
> >> free.
> >>
> >>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals
and
> >>
> >> get
> >>
> >>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
> >>>> the
> >>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
> >>>>
> >>>> EganReich wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
> >>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Ok.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
> >>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
> >>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to
steal
> >>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
> >>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the
wires.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
> >>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
> >>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light
coming
> >>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
> >>>>> running.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I
had
> >>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
> >>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
> >>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
> >>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
> >>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
> >>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs
for
> >>>>> a short time.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
> >>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the
car
> >>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
> >>>>> connection from the battery? What?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
> >>>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
they are hard to find. Some people run a wire to the big starter terminal
to avoid having two wires in that clamp.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d9c478$0$18167$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> Heh, I would have aimed him at the connections he replaced first....
>
> The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
> two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
>
> As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections
> today on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights
> dimming and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
>
> The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up!
> That implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel
> isn't getting good enough power.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> > I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
> > would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
> > ground strap!
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike
does.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
> >> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
> >>
> >>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
> >>>
> >>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> >>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> >>>
> >>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
> >>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole
system
> >>
> >> is
> >>
> >>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
> >>>> alternator to the battery.
> >>>>
> >>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
> >>
> >> lights
> >>
> >>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
> >>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
> >>>>
> >>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
> >>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
> >>
> >> free.
> >>
> >>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals
and
> >>
> >> get
> >>
> >>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
> >>>> the
> >>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
> >>>>
> >>>> EganReich wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
> >>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Ok.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
> >>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
> >>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to
steal
> >>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
> >>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the
wires.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
> >>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
> >>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light
coming
> >>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
> >>>>> running.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I
had
> >>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
> >>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
> >>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
> >>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
> >>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
> >>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs
for
> >>>>> a short time.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
> >>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the
car
> >>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
> >>>>> connection from the battery? What?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
> >>>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
02-19-2007, 10:56 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Battery (Alternator?) 1997 Jeep Wrangler...
You can get a molded battery cable with a pigtail for the small one, but
they are hard to find. Some people run a wire to the big starter terminal
to avoid having two wires in that clamp.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d9c478$0$18167$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> Heh, I would have aimed him at the connections he replaced first....
>
> The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
> two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
>
> As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections
> today on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights
> dimming and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
>
> The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up!
> That implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel
> isn't getting good enough power.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> > I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
> > would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
> > ground strap!
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike
does.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
> >> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
> >>
> >>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
> >>>
> >>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> >>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> >>>
> >>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
> >>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole
system
> >>
> >> is
> >>
> >>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
> >>>> alternator to the battery.
> >>>>
> >>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
> >>
> >> lights
> >>
> >>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
> >>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
> >>>>
> >>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
> >>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
> >>
> >> free.
> >>
> >>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals
and
> >>
> >> get
> >>
> >>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
> >>>> the
> >>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
> >>>>
> >>>> EganReich wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
> >>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Ok.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
> >>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
> >>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to
steal
> >>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
> >>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the
wires.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
> >>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
> >>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light
coming
> >>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
> >>>>> running.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I
had
> >>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
> >>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
> >>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
> >>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
> >>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
> >>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs
for
> >>>>> a short time.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
> >>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the
car
> >>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
> >>>>> connection from the battery? What?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
> >>>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
they are hard to find. Some people run a wire to the big starter terminal
to avoid having two wires in that clamp.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d9c478$0$18167$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> Heh, I would have aimed him at the connections he replaced first....
>
> The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
> two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
>
> As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections
> today on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights
> dimming and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
>
> The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up!
> That implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel
> isn't getting good enough power.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> > I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
> > would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
> > ground strap!
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike
does.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
> >> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
> >>
> >>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
> >>>
> >>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> >>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> >>>
> >>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
> >>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole
system
> >>
> >> is
> >>
> >>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
> >>>> alternator to the battery.
> >>>>
> >>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
> >>
> >> lights
> >>
> >>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
> >>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
> >>>>
> >>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
> >>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
> >>
> >> free.
> >>
> >>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals
and
> >>
> >> get
> >>
> >>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
> >>>> the
> >>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
> >>>>
> >>>> EganReich wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
> >>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Ok.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
> >>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
> >>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to
steal
> >>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
> >>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the
wires.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
> >>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
> >>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light
coming
> >>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
> >>>>> running.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I
had
> >>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
> >>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
> >>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
> >>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
> >>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
> >>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs
for
> >>>>> a short time.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
> >>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the
car
> >>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
> >>>>> connection from the battery? What?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
> >>>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
02-19-2007, 10:56 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Battery (Alternator?) 1997 Jeep Wrangler...
You can get a molded battery cable with a pigtail for the small one, but
they are hard to find. Some people run a wire to the big starter terminal
to avoid having two wires in that clamp.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d9c478$0$18167$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> Heh, I would have aimed him at the connections he replaced first....
>
> The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
> two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
>
> As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections
> today on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights
> dimming and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
>
> The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up!
> That implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel
> isn't getting good enough power.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> > I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
> > would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
> > ground strap!
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike
does.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
> >> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
> >>
> >>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
> >>>
> >>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> >>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> >>>
> >>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
> >>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole
system
> >>
> >> is
> >>
> >>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
> >>>> alternator to the battery.
> >>>>
> >>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
> >>
> >> lights
> >>
> >>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
> >>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
> >>>>
> >>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
> >>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
> >>
> >> free.
> >>
> >>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals
and
> >>
> >> get
> >>
> >>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
> >>>> the
> >>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
> >>>>
> >>>> EganReich wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
> >>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Ok.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
> >>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
> >>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to
steal
> >>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
> >>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the
wires.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
> >>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
> >>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light
coming
> >>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
> >>>>> running.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I
had
> >>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
> >>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
> >>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
> >>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
> >>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
> >>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs
for
> >>>>> a short time.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
> >>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the
car
> >>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
> >>>>> connection from the battery? What?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
> >>>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
they are hard to find. Some people run a wire to the big starter terminal
to avoid having two wires in that clamp.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d9c478$0$18167$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> Heh, I would have aimed him at the connections he replaced first....
>
> The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
> two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
>
> As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections
> today on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights
> dimming and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
>
> The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up!
> That implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel
> isn't getting good enough power.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> > I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
> > would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
> > ground strap!
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike
does.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
> >> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
> >>
> >>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
> >>>
> >>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> >>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> >>>
> >>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
> >>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole
system
> >>
> >> is
> >>
> >>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
> >>>> alternator to the battery.
> >>>>
> >>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
> >>
> >> lights
> >>
> >>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
> >>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
> >>>>
> >>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
> >>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
> >>
> >> free.
> >>
> >>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals
and
> >>
> >> get
> >>
> >>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
> >>>> the
> >>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
> >>>>
> >>>> EganReich wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
> >>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Ok.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
> >>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
> >>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to
steal
> >>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
> >>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the
wires.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
> >>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
> >>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light
coming
> >>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
> >>>>> running.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I
had
> >>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
> >>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
> >>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
> >>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
> >>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
> >>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs
for
> >>>>> a short time.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
> >>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the
car
> >>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
> >>>>> connection from the battery? What?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
> >>>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
02-19-2007, 11:28 AM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Battery (Alternator?) 1997 Jeep Wrangler...
The gauge wire used was probably marginal when the vehicle is new, after a
few years of corrosion you are asking for trouble.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d9c478$0$18167$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> Heh, I would have aimed him at the connections he replaced first....
>
> The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
> two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
>
> As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections today
> on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights dimming
> and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
>
> The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up! That
> implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel isn't
> getting good enough power.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> RoyJ wrote:
>> I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
>> would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
>> ground strap!
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>>> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike does.
>>>
>>> Earle
>>>
>>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>>> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
>>>
>>>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
>>>>
>>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>>>>
>>>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
>>>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole system
>>>
>>> is
>>>
>>>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
>>>>> alternator to the battery.
>>>>>
>>>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
>>>
>>> lights
>>>
>>>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
>>>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
>>>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
>>>
>>> free.
>>>
>>>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals and
>>>
>>> get
>>>
>>>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
>>>>> the
>>>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
>>>>>
>>>>> EganReich wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
>>>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ok.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
>>>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
>>>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to
>>>>>> steal
>>>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
>>>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the wires.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
>>>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
>>>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light coming
>>>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
>>>>>> running.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I
>>>>>> had
>>>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
>>>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
>>>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
>>>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
>>>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
>>>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs for
>>>>>> a short time.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
>>>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the
>>>>>> car
>>>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
>>>>>> connection from the battery? What?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
few years of corrosion you are asking for trouble.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d9c478$0$18167$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> Heh, I would have aimed him at the connections he replaced first....
>
> The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
> two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
>
> As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections today
> on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights dimming
> and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
>
> The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up! That
> implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel isn't
> getting good enough power.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> RoyJ wrote:
>> I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
>> would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
>> ground strap!
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>>> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike does.
>>>
>>> Earle
>>>
>>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>>> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
>>>
>>>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
>>>>
>>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>>>>
>>>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
>>>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole system
>>>
>>> is
>>>
>>>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
>>>>> alternator to the battery.
>>>>>
>>>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
>>>
>>> lights
>>>
>>>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
>>>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
>>>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
>>>
>>> free.
>>>
>>>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals and
>>>
>>> get
>>>
>>>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
>>>>> the
>>>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
>>>>>
>>>>> EganReich wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
>>>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ok.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
>>>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
>>>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to
>>>>>> steal
>>>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
>>>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the wires.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
>>>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
>>>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light coming
>>>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
>>>>>> running.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I
>>>>>> had
>>>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
>>>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
>>>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
>>>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
>>>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
>>>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs for
>>>>>> a short time.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
>>>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the
>>>>>> car
>>>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
>>>>>> connection from the battery? What?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
02-19-2007, 11:28 AM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Battery (Alternator?) 1997 Jeep Wrangler...
The gauge wire used was probably marginal when the vehicle is new, after a
few years of corrosion you are asking for trouble.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d9c478$0$18167$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> Heh, I would have aimed him at the connections he replaced first....
>
> The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
> two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
>
> As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections today
> on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights dimming
> and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
>
> The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up! That
> implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel isn't
> getting good enough power.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> RoyJ wrote:
>> I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
>> would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
>> ground strap!
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>>> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike does.
>>>
>>> Earle
>>>
>>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>>> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
>>>
>>>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
>>>>
>>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>>>>
>>>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
>>>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole system
>>>
>>> is
>>>
>>>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
>>>>> alternator to the battery.
>>>>>
>>>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
>>>
>>> lights
>>>
>>>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
>>>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
>>>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
>>>
>>> free.
>>>
>>>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals and
>>>
>>> get
>>>
>>>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
>>>>> the
>>>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
>>>>>
>>>>> EganReich wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
>>>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ok.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
>>>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
>>>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to
>>>>>> steal
>>>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
>>>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the wires.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
>>>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
>>>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light coming
>>>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
>>>>>> running.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I
>>>>>> had
>>>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
>>>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
>>>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
>>>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
>>>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
>>>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs for
>>>>>> a short time.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
>>>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the
>>>>>> car
>>>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
>>>>>> connection from the battery? What?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
few years of corrosion you are asking for trouble.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d9c478$0$18167$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> Heh, I would have aimed him at the connections he replaced first....
>
> The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
> two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
>
> As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections today
> on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights dimming
> and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
>
> The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up! That
> implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel isn't
> getting good enough power.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> RoyJ wrote:
>> I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
>> would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
>> ground strap!
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>>> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike does.
>>>
>>> Earle
>>>
>>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>>> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
>>>
>>>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
>>>>
>>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>>>>
>>>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
>>>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole system
>>>
>>> is
>>>
>>>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
>>>>> alternator to the battery.
>>>>>
>>>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
>>>
>>> lights
>>>
>>>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
>>>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
>>>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
>>>
>>> free.
>>>
>>>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals and
>>>
>>> get
>>>
>>>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
>>>>> the
>>>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
>>>>>
>>>>> EganReich wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
>>>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ok.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
>>>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
>>>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to
>>>>>> steal
>>>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
>>>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the wires.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
>>>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
>>>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light coming
>>>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
>>>>>> running.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I
>>>>>> had
>>>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
>>>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
>>>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
>>>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
>>>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
>>>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs for
>>>>>> a short time.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
>>>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the
>>>>>> car
>>>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
>>>>>> connection from the battery? What?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
02-19-2007, 11:28 AM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Battery (Alternator?) 1997 Jeep Wrangler...
The gauge wire used was probably marginal when the vehicle is new, after a
few years of corrosion you are asking for trouble.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d9c478$0$18167$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> Heh, I would have aimed him at the connections he replaced first....
>
> The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
> two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
>
> As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections today
> on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights dimming
> and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
>
> The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up! That
> implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel isn't
> getting good enough power.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> RoyJ wrote:
>> I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
>> would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
>> ground strap!
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>>> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike does.
>>>
>>> Earle
>>>
>>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>>> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
>>>
>>>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
>>>>
>>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>>>>
>>>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
>>>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole system
>>>
>>> is
>>>
>>>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
>>>>> alternator to the battery.
>>>>>
>>>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
>>>
>>> lights
>>>
>>>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
>>>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
>>>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
>>>
>>> free.
>>>
>>>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals and
>>>
>>> get
>>>
>>>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
>>>>> the
>>>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
>>>>>
>>>>> EganReich wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
>>>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ok.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
>>>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
>>>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to
>>>>>> steal
>>>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
>>>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the wires.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
>>>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
>>>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light coming
>>>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
>>>>>> running.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I
>>>>>> had
>>>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
>>>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
>>>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
>>>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
>>>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
>>>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs for
>>>>>> a short time.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
>>>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the
>>>>>> car
>>>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
>>>>>> connection from the battery? What?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
few years of corrosion you are asking for trouble.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45d9c478$0$18167$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
> Heh, I would have aimed him at the connections he replaced first....
>
> The positive battery terminal clamp has 2 positive cables in it. These
> two wires crammed into that clamp are usually a weak spot.
>
> As a matter of fact I have to go and clean those 'exact' connections today
> on my wife's Cherokee due to fluctuating charging with the lights dimming
> and a 'bad' no start in the cold situation.
>
> The sucker will turn over just fine, but it needs a boost to fire up! That
> implies the smaller wire which controls the charging and fuse panel isn't
> getting good enough power.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> RoyJ wrote:
>> I was thinking about sticking that tidbit in my response, figured Mike
>> would get there first :) But flickering lights does point to a bad
>> ground strap!
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>>> Someone should mention the engine to body ground strap before Mike does.
>>>
>>> Earle
>>>
>>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>>> news:b5934$45d929e5$422afc51$6757@FUSE.NET...
>>>
>>>> And buy the heaviest gauge cables you can afford.
>>>>
>>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:rM9Ch.3226$x74.2159@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>>>>
>>>>> I'm thinking that you have a bad cable, bad ground, etc that is
>>>>> aggrevatating the alternator and battery. Pretyy much the whole system
>>>
>>> is
>>>
>>>>> the battery, alternator, 2 big cables, one smaller cable from the
>>>>> alternator to the battery.
>>>>>
>>>>> The fact that the gauge seems to fluctuate on occassion and or dim
>>>
>>> lights
>>>
>>>>> usually means a cable is flexing and giving a poor connection. Repair
>>>>> terminals are a first part to look at.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your local parts place will test the alternator for free. The local
>>>>> battery place will test you battery (under load, after charging) for
>>>
>>> free.
>>>
>>>>> Someone else mentioned cables, just chuck out the repair terminals and
>>>
>>> get
>>>
>>>>> a pair of NEW battery cables with molded ends. Total cost for all of
>>>>> the
>>>>> above is 2 hours and $20.
>>>>>
>>>>> EganReich wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Let's see if I can find anything out here that will help. This will
>>>>>> be a lot of information, maybe too much.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ok.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> About a year ago, someone tried to steal the battery from my car.
>>>>>> They cut the wires, and when they realized they couldn't remove the
>>>>>> battery, they left it alone. (I know that someone was trying to
>>>>>> steal
>>>>>> it because the same night, my roomate's battery was stolen,
>>>>>> successfully). I rigged up a new terminal and re-attached the wires.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Later, the battery died. (It was old. So it seemed normal.) I
>>>>>> replaced the battery, but after that the battery gauge sporadically
>>>>>> dropped. It was fine for about a week, with the battery light coming
>>>>>> on every once in a while, but it never affected how the car was
>>>>>> running.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> But then the power failed, and I couldn't get it started again. I
>>>>>> had
>>>>>> to have it towed to the shop, where the mechanic replaced the
>>>>>> alternator. (I had had a feeling that the alternator was a problem
>>>>>> for some time, so it seemed like a sensible solution). I drove the
>>>>>> car for two days after that, and now it's died again. The battery
>>>>>> light comes on, the lights dim, and then I can't accelerate. If I
>>>>>> leave it alone for a little while, it starts again, but only runs for
>>>>>> a short time.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If I assume that the alternator is fine (since I just had it
>>>>>> replaced), what else could be the problem? Is it true that if the
>>>>>> car
>>>>>> starts, then the battery is probably ok?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I really don't have any idea what the problem could be. Bad
>>>>>> connection from the battery? What?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Also, the Jeep just died in the projects, which is pretty awesome.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any help or advice would be enormously appreciated.
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
02-19-2007, 12:16 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Battery (Alternator?) 1997 Jeep Wrangler...
Thanks a million, everyone. This is all really helpful. I love my
car, and I want to keep it going for a long time (it only has 110,000
miles on it) so all of this info is a huge boon for the long-run.
I was able to use a battery charger to start it up, and I drove with
it still attached to the mechanic's. He's checking it out now; we'll
see what he says. But at least it's out of the projects, and it's
daylight, which always makes the projects a little less scary.
Again, thanks.
One quick follow-up: Since this happened earlier, and it resulted in
me paying $400 for a new alternator, should I be worried that was a
completely unnecessary job? If the problem was faulty/ corroded
wires, should I be making a fuss with the mechanic?
car, and I want to keep it going for a long time (it only has 110,000
miles on it) so all of this info is a huge boon for the long-run.
I was able to use a battery charger to start it up, and I drove with
it still attached to the mechanic's. He's checking it out now; we'll
see what he says. But at least it's out of the projects, and it's
daylight, which always makes the projects a little less scary.
Again, thanks.
One quick follow-up: Since this happened earlier, and it resulted in
me paying $400 for a new alternator, should I be worried that was a
completely unnecessary job? If the problem was faulty/ corroded
wires, should I be making a fuss with the mechanic?
02-19-2007, 12:16 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Battery (Alternator?) 1997 Jeep Wrangler...
Thanks a million, everyone. This is all really helpful. I love my
car, and I want to keep it going for a long time (it only has 110,000
miles on it) so all of this info is a huge boon for the long-run.
I was able to use a battery charger to start it up, and I drove with
it still attached to the mechanic's. He's checking it out now; we'll
see what he says. But at least it's out of the projects, and it's
daylight, which always makes the projects a little less scary.
Again, thanks.
One quick follow-up: Since this happened earlier, and it resulted in
me paying $400 for a new alternator, should I be worried that was a
completely unnecessary job? If the problem was faulty/ corroded
wires, should I be making a fuss with the mechanic?
car, and I want to keep it going for a long time (it only has 110,000
miles on it) so all of this info is a huge boon for the long-run.
I was able to use a battery charger to start it up, and I drove with
it still attached to the mechanic's. He's checking it out now; we'll
see what he says. But at least it's out of the projects, and it's
daylight, which always makes the projects a little less scary.
Again, thanks.
One quick follow-up: Since this happened earlier, and it resulted in
me paying $400 for a new alternator, should I be worried that was a
completely unnecessary job? If the problem was faulty/ corroded
wires, should I be making a fuss with the mechanic?