dc relay
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Battery.
I have an Optima battery with a bolt post for accessories. Canadian
Tire now sells generic rolled cell batteries.
Mike
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> > It does make 'some' difference.
> >
> > I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> > and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> > means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> > the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> > No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
> >
> > You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> > 'on' until the key cuts the power.
> >
> > No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> > are playing around with LED's.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > SB wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > > gets what....
> > >
> > > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> > >
> > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > > >
> > > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
> like
> > > to
> > > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > > >
> > > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
> was
> > > a
> > > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
> relation
> > > to
> > > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > > >
> > > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
> the
> > > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
> and
> > > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > > >
> > > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > > useless
> > > > lol too much!
> > > >
> > > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > > bottom of the relay.
> > > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > > >
> > > > Where's my buckleys!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > > polarized?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
> pos/neg
> > > > pole on
> > > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > sb
> > > > >
> > > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
> usually
> > > > isn't
> > > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
> up
> > > the
> > > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > > armatures
> > > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
> because
> > > you
> > > > say
> > > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > > polarity.
> > > > >
> > > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > > voltage and
> > > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
> are
> > > > usually
> > > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
> much
> > > > voltage
> > > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > > source
> > > > can
> > > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
> winding
> > > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
> rated
> > > for
> > > > at
> > > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > > >
> > > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
> rating
> > > or
> > > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > > doesn't
> > > > draw
> > > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > > exceeds
> > > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
> them,
> > > > start a
> > > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > > >
> > > > > Scotty
> > > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > > >
> > > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
I have an Optima battery with a bolt post for accessories. Canadian
Tire now sells generic rolled cell batteries.
Mike
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> > It does make 'some' difference.
> >
> > I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> > and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> > means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> > the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> > No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
> >
> > You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> > 'on' until the key cuts the power.
> >
> > No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> > are playing around with LED's.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > SB wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > > gets what....
> > >
> > > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> > >
> > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > > >
> > > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
> like
> > > to
> > > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > > >
> > > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
> was
> > > a
> > > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
> relation
> > > to
> > > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > > >
> > > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
> the
> > > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
> and
> > > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > > >
> > > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > > useless
> > > > lol too much!
> > > >
> > > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > > bottom of the relay.
> > > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > > >
> > > > Where's my buckleys!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > > polarized?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
> pos/neg
> > > > pole on
> > > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > sb
> > > > >
> > > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
> usually
> > > > isn't
> > > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
> up
> > > the
> > > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > > armatures
> > > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
> because
> > > you
> > > > say
> > > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > > polarity.
> > > > >
> > > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > > voltage and
> > > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
> are
> > > > usually
> > > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
> much
> > > > voltage
> > > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > > source
> > > > can
> > > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
> winding
> > > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
> rated
> > > for
> > > > at
> > > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > > >
> > > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
> rating
> > > or
> > > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > > doesn't
> > > > draw
> > > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > > exceeds
> > > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
> them,
> > > > start a
> > > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > > >
> > > > > Scotty
> > > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > > >
> > > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Battery.
I have an Optima battery with a bolt post for accessories. Canadian
Tire now sells generic rolled cell batteries.
Mike
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> > It does make 'some' difference.
> >
> > I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> > and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> > means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> > the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> > No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
> >
> > You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> > 'on' until the key cuts the power.
> >
> > No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> > are playing around with LED's.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > SB wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > > gets what....
> > >
> > > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> > >
> > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > > >
> > > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
> like
> > > to
> > > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > > >
> > > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
> was
> > > a
> > > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
> relation
> > > to
> > > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > > >
> > > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
> the
> > > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
> and
> > > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > > >
> > > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > > useless
> > > > lol too much!
> > > >
> > > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > > bottom of the relay.
> > > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > > >
> > > > Where's my buckleys!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > > polarized?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
> pos/neg
> > > > pole on
> > > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > sb
> > > > >
> > > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
> usually
> > > > isn't
> > > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
> up
> > > the
> > > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > > armatures
> > > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
> because
> > > you
> > > > say
> > > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > > polarity.
> > > > >
> > > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > > voltage and
> > > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
> are
> > > > usually
> > > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
> much
> > > > voltage
> > > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > > source
> > > > can
> > > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
> winding
> > > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
> rated
> > > for
> > > > at
> > > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > > >
> > > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
> rating
> > > or
> > > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > > doesn't
> > > > draw
> > > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > > exceeds
> > > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
> them,
> > > > start a
> > > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > > >
> > > > > Scotty
> > > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > > >
> > > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
I have an Optima battery with a bolt post for accessories. Canadian
Tire now sells generic rolled cell batteries.
Mike
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> > It does make 'some' difference.
> >
> > I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> > and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> > means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> > the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> > No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
> >
> > You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> > 'on' until the key cuts the power.
> >
> > No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> > are playing around with LED's.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > SB wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > > gets what....
> > >
> > > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> > >
> > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > > >
> > > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
> like
> > > to
> > > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > > >
> > > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
> was
> > > a
> > > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
> relation
> > > to
> > > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > > >
> > > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
> the
> > > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
> and
> > > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > > >
> > > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > > useless
> > > > lol too much!
> > > >
> > > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > > bottom of the relay.
> > > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > > >
> > > > Where's my buckleys!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > > polarized?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
> pos/neg
> > > > pole on
> > > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > sb
> > > > >
> > > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
> usually
> > > > isn't
> > > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
> up
> > > the
> > > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > > armatures
> > > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
> because
> > > you
> > > > say
> > > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > > polarity.
> > > > >
> > > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > > voltage and
> > > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
> are
> > > > usually
> > > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
> much
> > > > voltage
> > > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > > source
> > > > can
> > > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
> winding
> > > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
> rated
> > > for
> > > > at
> > > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > > >
> > > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
> rating
> > > or
> > > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > > doesn't
> > > > draw
> > > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > > exceeds
> > > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
> them,
> > > > start a
> > > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > > >
> > > > > Scotty
> > > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > > >
> > > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Battery.
I have an Optima battery with a bolt post for accessories. Canadian
Tire now sells generic rolled cell batteries.
Mike
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> > It does make 'some' difference.
> >
> > I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> > and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> > means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> > the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> > No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
> >
> > You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> > 'on' until the key cuts the power.
> >
> > No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> > are playing around with LED's.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > SB wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > > gets what....
> > >
> > > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> > >
> > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > > >
> > > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
> like
> > > to
> > > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > > >
> > > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
> was
> > > a
> > > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
> relation
> > > to
> > > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > > >
> > > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
> the
> > > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
> and
> > > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > > >
> > > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > > useless
> > > > lol too much!
> > > >
> > > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > > bottom of the relay.
> > > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > > >
> > > > Where's my buckleys!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > > polarized?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
> pos/neg
> > > > pole on
> > > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > sb
> > > > >
> > > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
> usually
> > > > isn't
> > > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
> up
> > > the
> > > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > > armatures
> > > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
> because
> > > you
> > > > say
> > > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > > polarity.
> > > > >
> > > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > > voltage and
> > > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
> are
> > > > usually
> > > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
> much
> > > > voltage
> > > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > > source
> > > > can
> > > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
> winding
> > > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
> rated
> > > for
> > > > at
> > > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > > >
> > > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
> rating
> > > or
> > > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > > doesn't
> > > > draw
> > > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > > exceeds
> > > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
> them,
> > > > start a
> > > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > > >
> > > > > Scotty
> > > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > > >
> > > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
I have an Optima battery with a bolt post for accessories. Canadian
Tire now sells generic rolled cell batteries.
Mike
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> > It does make 'some' difference.
> >
> > I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> > and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> > means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> > the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> > No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
> >
> > You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> > 'on' until the key cuts the power.
> >
> > No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> > are playing around with LED's.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > SB wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > > gets what....
> > >
> > > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> > >
> > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > > >
> > > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
> like
> > > to
> > > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > > >
> > > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
> was
> > > a
> > > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
> relation
> > > to
> > > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > > >
> > > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
> the
> > > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
> and
> > > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > > >
> > > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > > useless
> > > > lol too much!
> > > >
> > > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > > bottom of the relay.
> > > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > > >
> > > > Where's my buckleys!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > > polarized?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
> pos/neg
> > > > pole on
> > > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > sb
> > > > >
> > > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
> usually
> > > > isn't
> > > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
> up
> > > the
> > > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > > armatures
> > > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
> because
> > > you
> > > > say
> > > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > > polarity.
> > > > >
> > > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > > voltage and
> > > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
> are
> > > > usually
> > > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
> much
> > > > voltage
> > > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > > source
> > > > can
> > > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
> winding
> > > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
> rated
> > > for
> > > > at
> > > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > > >
> > > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
> rating
> > > or
> > > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > > doesn't
> > > > draw
> > > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > > exceeds
> > > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
> them,
> > > > start a
> > > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > > >
> > > > > Scotty
> > > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > > >
> > > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
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