dc relay
04-28-2004, 05:19 PM
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
On Tue, 27 Apr 2004 23:01:48 GMT, the following appeared in
rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, posted by "SB"
<chicbearsmook@hotmail.com>:
>Hey guys,
>
>Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they polarized?
>
>I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg pole on
>the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
The only way DC relays are "polarized" is if they have
diodes across the coils (there to prevent inductive kick
when the coil drive opens). If they do, the coil must be
connected so that the diode is reverse-biased (cathode to
positive, anode to negative). With an ohmmeter, you can
usually tell if this is the case, assuming the coil
resistance is greater than 20 ohms or so, since the diode
will conduct when forward-biased.
--
Bob C.
Reply to Bob-Casanova @ worldnet.att.net
(without the spaces, of course)
"The most exciting phrase to hear in science,
the one that heralds new discoveries, is not
'Eureka!' but 'That's funny...'"
- Isaac Asimov
rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, posted by "SB"
<chicbearsmook@hotmail.com>:
>Hey guys,
>
>Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they polarized?
>
>I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg pole on
>the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
The only way DC relays are "polarized" is if they have
diodes across the coils (there to prevent inductive kick
when the coil drive opens). If they do, the coil must be
connected so that the diode is reverse-biased (cathode to
positive, anode to negative). With an ohmmeter, you can
usually tell if this is the case, assuming the coil
resistance is greater than 20 ohms or so, since the diode
will conduct when forward-biased.
--
Bob C.
Reply to Bob-Casanova @ worldnet.att.net
(without the spaces, of course)
"The most exciting phrase to hear in science,
the one that heralds new discoveries, is not
'Eureka!' but 'That's funny...'"
- Isaac Asimov
04-28-2004, 05:49 PM
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> It does make 'some' difference.
>
> I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
>
> You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> 'on' until the key cuts the power.
>
> No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> are playing around with LED's.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> SB wrote:
> >
> > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > gets what....
> >
> > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> >
> > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > >
> > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
like
> > to
> > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > >
> > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
was
> > a
> > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
relation
> > to
> > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > >
> > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
the
> > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
and
> > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > >
> > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > useless
> > > lol too much!
> > >
> > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > bottom of the relay.
> > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > >
> > > Where's my buckleys!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > >
> > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > >
> > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > polarized?
> > > > >
> > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
pos/neg
> > > pole on
> > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > >
> > > > > sb
> > > >
> > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
usually
> > > isn't
> > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
up
> > the
> > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > armatures
> > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
because
> > you
> > > say
> > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > polarity.
> > > >
> > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > voltage and
> > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
are
> > > usually
> > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
much
> > > voltage
> > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > source
> > > can
> > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
winding
> > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
rated
> > for
> > > at
> > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > >
> > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
rating
> > or
> > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > doesn't
> > > draw
> > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > exceeds
> > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
them,
> > > start a
> > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > >
> > > > Scotty
> > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > >
> > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> It does make 'some' difference.
>
> I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
>
> You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> 'on' until the key cuts the power.
>
> No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> are playing around with LED's.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> SB wrote:
> >
> > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > gets what....
> >
> > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> >
> > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > >
> > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
like
> > to
> > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > >
> > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
was
> > a
> > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
relation
> > to
> > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > >
> > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
the
> > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
and
> > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > >
> > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > useless
> > > lol too much!
> > >
> > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > bottom of the relay.
> > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > >
> > > Where's my buckleys!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > >
> > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > >
> > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > polarized?
> > > > >
> > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
pos/neg
> > > pole on
> > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > >
> > > > > sb
> > > >
> > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
usually
> > > isn't
> > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
up
> > the
> > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > armatures
> > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
because
> > you
> > > say
> > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > polarity.
> > > >
> > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > voltage and
> > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
are
> > > usually
> > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
much
> > > voltage
> > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > source
> > > can
> > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
winding
> > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
rated
> > for
> > > at
> > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > >
> > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
rating
> > or
> > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > doesn't
> > > draw
> > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > exceeds
> > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
them,
> > > start a
> > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > >
> > > > Scotty
> > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > >
> > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
04-28-2004, 05:49 PM
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> It does make 'some' difference.
>
> I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
>
> You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> 'on' until the key cuts the power.
>
> No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> are playing around with LED's.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> SB wrote:
> >
> > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > gets what....
> >
> > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> >
> > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > >
> > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
like
> > to
> > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > >
> > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
was
> > a
> > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
relation
> > to
> > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > >
> > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
the
> > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
and
> > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > >
> > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > useless
> > > lol too much!
> > >
> > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > bottom of the relay.
> > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > >
> > > Where's my buckleys!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > >
> > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > >
> > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > polarized?
> > > > >
> > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
pos/neg
> > > pole on
> > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > >
> > > > > sb
> > > >
> > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
usually
> > > isn't
> > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
up
> > the
> > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > armatures
> > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
because
> > you
> > > say
> > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > polarity.
> > > >
> > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > voltage and
> > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
are
> > > usually
> > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
much
> > > voltage
> > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > source
> > > can
> > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
winding
> > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
rated
> > for
> > > at
> > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > >
> > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
rating
> > or
> > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > doesn't
> > > draw
> > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > exceeds
> > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
them,
> > > start a
> > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > >
> > > > Scotty
> > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > >
> > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> It does make 'some' difference.
>
> I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
>
> You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> 'on' until the key cuts the power.
>
> No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> are playing around with LED's.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> SB wrote:
> >
> > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > gets what....
> >
> > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> >
> > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > >
> > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
like
> > to
> > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > >
> > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
was
> > a
> > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
relation
> > to
> > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > >
> > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
the
> > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
and
> > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > >
> > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > useless
> > > lol too much!
> > >
> > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > bottom of the relay.
> > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > >
> > > Where's my buckleys!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > >
> > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > >
> > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > polarized?
> > > > >
> > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
pos/neg
> > > pole on
> > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > >
> > > > > sb
> > > >
> > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
usually
> > > isn't
> > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
up
> > the
> > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > armatures
> > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
because
> > you
> > > say
> > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > polarity.
> > > >
> > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > voltage and
> > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
are
> > > usually
> > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
much
> > > voltage
> > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > source
> > > can
> > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
winding
> > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
rated
> > for
> > > at
> > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > >
> > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
rating
> > or
> > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > doesn't
> > > draw
> > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > exceeds
> > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
them,
> > > start a
> > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > >
> > > > Scotty
> > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > >
> > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
04-28-2004, 05:49 PM
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> It does make 'some' difference.
>
> I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
>
> You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> 'on' until the key cuts the power.
>
> No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> are playing around with LED's.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> SB wrote:
> >
> > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > gets what....
> >
> > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> >
> > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > >
> > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
like
> > to
> > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > >
> > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
was
> > a
> > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
relation
> > to
> > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > >
> > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
the
> > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
and
> > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > >
> > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > useless
> > > lol too much!
> > >
> > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > bottom of the relay.
> > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > >
> > > Where's my buckleys!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > >
> > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > >
> > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > polarized?
> > > > >
> > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
pos/neg
> > > pole on
> > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > >
> > > > > sb
> > > >
> > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
usually
> > > isn't
> > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
up
> > the
> > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > armatures
> > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
because
> > you
> > > say
> > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > polarity.
> > > >
> > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > voltage and
> > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
are
> > > usually
> > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
much
> > > voltage
> > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > source
> > > can
> > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
winding
> > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
rated
> > for
> > > at
> > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > >
> > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
rating
> > or
> > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > doesn't
> > > draw
> > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > exceeds
> > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
them,
> > > start a
> > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > >
> > > > Scotty
> > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > >
> > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> It does make 'some' difference.
>
> I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
>
> You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> 'on' until the key cuts the power.
>
> No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> are playing around with LED's.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> SB wrote:
> >
> > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > gets what....
> >
> > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> >
> > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > >
> > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
like
> > to
> > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > >
> > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
was
> > a
> > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
relation
> > to
> > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > >
> > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
the
> > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
and
> > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > >
> > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > useless
> > > lol too much!
> > >
> > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > bottom of the relay.
> > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > >
> > > Where's my buckleys!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > >
> > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > >
> > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > polarized?
> > > > >
> > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
pos/neg
> > > pole on
> > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > >
> > > > > sb
> > > >
> > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
usually
> > > isn't
> > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
up
> > the
> > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > armatures
> > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
because
> > you
> > > say
> > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > polarity.
> > > >
> > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > voltage and
> > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
are
> > > usually
> > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
much
> > > voltage
> > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > source
> > > can
> > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
winding
> > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
rated
> > for
> > > at
> > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > >
> > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
rating
> > or
> > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > doesn't
> > > draw
> > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > exceeds
> > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
them,
> > > start a
> > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > >
> > > > Scotty
> > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > >
> > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
04-28-2004, 05:49 PM
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> It does make 'some' difference.
>
> I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
>
> You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> 'on' until the key cuts the power.
>
> No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> are playing around with LED's.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> SB wrote:
> >
> > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > gets what....
> >
> > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> >
> > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > >
> > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
like
> > to
> > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > >
> > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
was
> > a
> > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
relation
> > to
> > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > >
> > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
the
> > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
and
> > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > >
> > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > useless
> > > lol too much!
> > >
> > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > bottom of the relay.
> > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > >
> > > Where's my buckleys!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > >
> > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > >
> > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > polarized?
> > > > >
> > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
pos/neg
> > > pole on
> > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > >
> > > > > sb
> > > >
> > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
usually
> > > isn't
> > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
up
> > the
> > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > armatures
> > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
because
> > you
> > > say
> > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > polarity.
> > > >
> > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > voltage and
> > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
are
> > > usually
> > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
much
> > > voltage
> > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > source
> > > can
> > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
winding
> > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
rated
> > for
> > > at
> > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > >
> > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
rating
> > or
> > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > doesn't
> > > draw
> > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > exceeds
> > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
them,
> > > start a
> > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > >
> > > > Scotty
> > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > >
> > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> It does make 'some' difference.
>
> I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
>
> You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> 'on' until the key cuts the power.
>
> No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> are playing around with LED's.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> SB wrote:
> >
> > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > gets what....
> >
> > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> >
> > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > >
> > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
like
> > to
> > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > >
> > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
was
> > a
> > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
relation
> > to
> > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > >
> > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
the
> > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
and
> > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > >
> > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > useless
> > > lol too much!
> > >
> > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > bottom of the relay.
> > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > >
> > > Where's my buckleys!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > >
> > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > >
> > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > polarized?
> > > > >
> > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
pos/neg
> > > pole on
> > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > >
> > > > > sb
> > > >
> > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
usually
> > > isn't
> > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
up
> > the
> > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > armatures
> > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
because
> > you
> > > say
> > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > polarity.
> > > >
> > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > voltage and
> > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
are
> > > usually
> > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
much
> > > voltage
> > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > source
> > > can
> > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
winding
> > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
rated
> > for
> > > at
> > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > >
> > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
rating
> > or
> > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > doesn't
> > > draw
> > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > exceeds
> > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
them,
> > > start a
> > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > >
> > > > Scotty
> > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > >
> > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
04-28-2004, 06:01 PM
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Maybe to the head light power wire, if you're hooking up auxiliary
lights. Accessories are good if you'd like it key switched.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery)
lights. Accessories are good if you'd like it key switched.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery)
04-28-2004, 06:01 PM
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Maybe to the head light power wire, if you're hooking up auxiliary
lights. Accessories are good if you'd like it key switched.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery)
lights. Accessories are good if you'd like it key switched.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery)
04-28-2004, 06:01 PM
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Maybe to the head light power wire, if you're hooking up auxiliary
lights. Accessories are good if you'd like it key switched.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery)
lights. Accessories are good if you'd like it key switched.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery)
04-28-2004, 06:01 PM
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Maybe to the head light power wire, if you're hooking up auxiliary
lights. Accessories are good if you'd like it key switched.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery)
lights. Accessories are good if you'd like it key switched.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery)
04-28-2004, 06:29 PM
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Battery.
I have an Optima battery with a bolt post for accessories. Canadian
Tire now sells generic rolled cell batteries.
Mike
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> > It does make 'some' difference.
> >
> > I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> > and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> > means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> > the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> > No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
> >
> > You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> > 'on' until the key cuts the power.
> >
> > No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> > are playing around with LED's.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > SB wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > > gets what....
> > >
> > > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> > >
> > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > > >
> > > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
> like
> > > to
> > > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > > >
> > > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
> was
> > > a
> > > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
> relation
> > > to
> > > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > > >
> > > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
> the
> > > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
> and
> > > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > > >
> > > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > > useless
> > > > lol too much!
> > > >
> > > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > > bottom of the relay.
> > > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > > >
> > > > Where's my buckleys!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > > polarized?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
> pos/neg
> > > > pole on
> > > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > sb
> > > > >
> > > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
> usually
> > > > isn't
> > > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
> up
> > > the
> > > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > > armatures
> > > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
> because
> > > you
> > > > say
> > > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > > polarity.
> > > > >
> > > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > > voltage and
> > > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
> are
> > > > usually
> > > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
> much
> > > > voltage
> > > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > > source
> > > > can
> > > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
> winding
> > > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
> rated
> > > for
> > > > at
> > > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > > >
> > > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
> rating
> > > or
> > > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > > doesn't
> > > > draw
> > > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > > exceeds
> > > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
> them,
> > > > start a
> > > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > > >
> > > > > Scotty
> > > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > > >
> > > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
I have an Optima battery with a bolt post for accessories. Canadian
Tire now sells generic rolled cell batteries.
Mike
SB wrote:
>
> Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on.
> 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol
>
> I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of
> your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is
> still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run!
>
> Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to
> ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery).
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca...
> > It does make 'some' difference.
> >
> > I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85)
> > and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This
> > means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to
> > the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay.
> > No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power.
> >
> > You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds
> > 'on' until the key cuts the power.
> >
> > No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you
> > are playing around with LED's.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > SB wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> > > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> > > gets what....
> > >
> > > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
> > >
> > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > > > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> > > >
> > > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't
> like
> > > to
> > > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> > > >
> > > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably
> was
> > > a
> > > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in
> relation
> > > to
> > > > being surplus and were on sale!
> > > >
> > > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent
> the
> > > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech
> and
> > > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> > > >
> > > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> > > useless
> > > > lol too much!
> > > >
> > > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > > > bottom of the relay.
> > > > (look at 2nd image down)
> > > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> > > >
> > > > Where's my buckleys!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hey guys,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > > > polarized?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a
> pos/neg
> > > > pole on
> > > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > sb
> > > > >
> > > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings
> usually
> > > > isn't
> > > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em
> up
> > > the
> > > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > > > armatures
> > > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But
> because
> > > you
> > > > say
> > > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > > > polarity.
> > > > >
> > > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > > > voltage and
> > > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings
> are
> > > > usually
> > > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too
> much
> > > > voltage
> > > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> > > source
> > > > can
> > > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the
> winding
> > > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is
> rated
> > > for
> > > > at
> > > > > least 12-16 volts.
> > > > >
> > > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage
> rating
> > > or
> > > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> > > doesn't
> > > > draw
> > > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > > > exceeds
> > > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt
> them,
> > > > start a
> > > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > > > >
> > > > > Scotty
> > > > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > > > '03 BMW Z4
> > > > >
> > > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >