dc relay
04-27-2004, 10:37 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
SB,
I just re-read your previous post about the contact ratings. I believe I
mis-read it the first time and that you were saying that there are TWO CONTACTS
for the coil, not TWO COILS. If so, I apologize for wasting yours and the
group's time with all that hoo-hah about latching relays. If you meant that
there are two contacts marked "COIL," then your relay will fit in the circuit
you showed in your link without a problem, as long as those lamps don't draw a
combined current of more than 40 amps (i.e., 20 amps each) 'cause they're wired
in parallel. Polarity shouldn't be an issue; those reverse-bypass diodes you
mentioned generally aren't built-in.
BTW, coil windings generally will operate at 85& of their rated voltage and can
usually tolerate up to 110% of it. You can determine the coil's current rating
with an ohmmeter because, as this is a DC circuit, its impedance isn't an issue
-- find the coil's DC resistance with an ohmmeter and use ohm's law to
determine its current draw. This will tell you what size fuse to put in the
switch circuit. Of course, the lighting circuit will need a 40A/FB.
Have fun!
Scotty
'99 TJ 4.0L
'99 XJ 4.0L
'03 BMW Z4
*** WARNING: Do not remove this line under penalty of law ***
"SB" chicbearsmook@hotmail.com writes:
> These are rated 40Amps. $3 per at Princess Auto...I finally found the one
> near me and had a chub the whole time I was there!! haha
>
> I realized the points won't matter....there ARE numbers on the contacts
> (5contacts...2-coils, 3-switch {n/o & n/c})....but these numbers don't lead
> you to think ones pos or neg!
I just re-read your previous post about the contact ratings. I believe I
mis-read it the first time and that you were saying that there are TWO CONTACTS
for the coil, not TWO COILS. If so, I apologize for wasting yours and the
group's time with all that hoo-hah about latching relays. If you meant that
there are two contacts marked "COIL," then your relay will fit in the circuit
you showed in your link without a problem, as long as those lamps don't draw a
combined current of more than 40 amps (i.e., 20 amps each) 'cause they're wired
in parallel. Polarity shouldn't be an issue; those reverse-bypass diodes you
mentioned generally aren't built-in.
BTW, coil windings generally will operate at 85& of their rated voltage and can
usually tolerate up to 110% of it. You can determine the coil's current rating
with an ohmmeter because, as this is a DC circuit, its impedance isn't an issue
-- find the coil's DC resistance with an ohmmeter and use ohm's law to
determine its current draw. This will tell you what size fuse to put in the
switch circuit. Of course, the lighting circuit will need a 40A/FB.
Have fun!
Scotty
'99 TJ 4.0L
'99 XJ 4.0L
'03 BMW Z4
*** WARNING: Do not remove this line under penalty of law ***
"SB" chicbearsmook@hotmail.com writes:
> These are rated 40Amps. $3 per at Princess Auto...I finally found the one
> near me and had a chub the whole time I was there!! haha
>
> I realized the points won't matter....there ARE numbers on the contacts
> (5contacts...2-coils, 3-switch {n/o & n/c})....but these numbers don't lead
> you to think ones pos or neg!
04-27-2004, 10:44 PM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Hey don't worry about it. It's information posted for everyone!!
I picked up some cheap fuse blocks along with the relays and switches. I
don't know IF I'll need to put a fuse block on both power sides of the relay
(light side and switch side)....I figure it couldn't hurt if either end
shorted out....
I've seen some links that say to put one on each side and I like the idea of
a fuse block better than an inline fuse.
"Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
news:20040427223735.07978.00000364@mb-m27.aol.com...
> SB,
>
> I just re-read your previous post about the contact ratings. I believe I
> mis-read it the first time and that you were saying that there are TWO
CONTACTS
> for the coil, not TWO COILS. If so, I apologize for wasting yours and the
> group's time with all that hoo-hah about latching relays. If you meant
that
> there are two contacts marked "COIL," then your relay will fit in the
circuit
> you showed in your link without a problem, as long as those lamps don't
draw a
> combined current of more than 40 amps (i.e., 20 amps each) 'cause they're
wired
> in parallel. Polarity shouldn't be an issue; those reverse-bypass diodes
you
> mentioned generally aren't built-in.
>
> BTW, coil windings generally will operate at 85& of their rated voltage
and can
> usually tolerate up to 110% of it. You can determine the coil's current
rating
> with an ohmmeter because, as this is a DC circuit, its impedance isn't an
issue
> -- find the coil's DC resistance with an ohmmeter and use ohm's law to
> determine its current draw. This will tell you what size fuse to put in
the
> switch circuit. Of course, the lighting circuit will need a 40A/FB.
>
> Have fun!
>
> Scotty
> '99 TJ 4.0L
> '99 XJ 4.0L
> '03 BMW Z4
>
> *** WARNING: Do not remove this line under penalty of law ***
>
> "SB" chicbearsmook@hotmail.com writes:
>
> > These are rated 40Amps. $3 per at Princess Auto...I finally found the
one
> > near me and had a chub the whole time I was there!! haha
> >
> > I realized the points won't matter....there ARE numbers on the contacts
> > (5contacts...2-coils, 3-switch {n/o & n/c})....but these numbers don't
lead
> > you to think ones pos or neg!
>
>
>
>
>
>
I picked up some cheap fuse blocks along with the relays and switches. I
don't know IF I'll need to put a fuse block on both power sides of the relay
(light side and switch side)....I figure it couldn't hurt if either end
shorted out....
I've seen some links that say to put one on each side and I like the idea of
a fuse block better than an inline fuse.
"Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
news:20040427223735.07978.00000364@mb-m27.aol.com...
> SB,
>
> I just re-read your previous post about the contact ratings. I believe I
> mis-read it the first time and that you were saying that there are TWO
CONTACTS
> for the coil, not TWO COILS. If so, I apologize for wasting yours and the
> group's time with all that hoo-hah about latching relays. If you meant
that
> there are two contacts marked "COIL," then your relay will fit in the
circuit
> you showed in your link without a problem, as long as those lamps don't
draw a
> combined current of more than 40 amps (i.e., 20 amps each) 'cause they're
wired
> in parallel. Polarity shouldn't be an issue; those reverse-bypass diodes
you
> mentioned generally aren't built-in.
>
> BTW, coil windings generally will operate at 85& of their rated voltage
and can
> usually tolerate up to 110% of it. You can determine the coil's current
rating
> with an ohmmeter because, as this is a DC circuit, its impedance isn't an
issue
> -- find the coil's DC resistance with an ohmmeter and use ohm's law to
> determine its current draw. This will tell you what size fuse to put in
the
> switch circuit. Of course, the lighting circuit will need a 40A/FB.
>
> Have fun!
>
> Scotty
> '99 TJ 4.0L
> '99 XJ 4.0L
> '03 BMW Z4
>
> *** WARNING: Do not remove this line under penalty of law ***
>
> "SB" chicbearsmook@hotmail.com writes:
>
> > These are rated 40Amps. $3 per at Princess Auto...I finally found the
one
> > near me and had a chub the whole time I was there!! haha
> >
> > I realized the points won't matter....there ARE numbers on the contacts
> > (5contacts...2-coils, 3-switch {n/o & n/c})....but these numbers don't
lead
> > you to think ones pos or neg!
>
>
>
>
>
>
04-27-2004, 10:44 PM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Hey don't worry about it. It's information posted for everyone!!
I picked up some cheap fuse blocks along with the relays and switches. I
don't know IF I'll need to put a fuse block on both power sides of the relay
(light side and switch side)....I figure it couldn't hurt if either end
shorted out....
I've seen some links that say to put one on each side and I like the idea of
a fuse block better than an inline fuse.
"Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
news:20040427223735.07978.00000364@mb-m27.aol.com...
> SB,
>
> I just re-read your previous post about the contact ratings. I believe I
> mis-read it the first time and that you were saying that there are TWO
CONTACTS
> for the coil, not TWO COILS. If so, I apologize for wasting yours and the
> group's time with all that hoo-hah about latching relays. If you meant
that
> there are two contacts marked "COIL," then your relay will fit in the
circuit
> you showed in your link without a problem, as long as those lamps don't
draw a
> combined current of more than 40 amps (i.e., 20 amps each) 'cause they're
wired
> in parallel. Polarity shouldn't be an issue; those reverse-bypass diodes
you
> mentioned generally aren't built-in.
>
> BTW, coil windings generally will operate at 85& of their rated voltage
and can
> usually tolerate up to 110% of it. You can determine the coil's current
rating
> with an ohmmeter because, as this is a DC circuit, its impedance isn't an
issue
> -- find the coil's DC resistance with an ohmmeter and use ohm's law to
> determine its current draw. This will tell you what size fuse to put in
the
> switch circuit. Of course, the lighting circuit will need a 40A/FB.
>
> Have fun!
>
> Scotty
> '99 TJ 4.0L
> '99 XJ 4.0L
> '03 BMW Z4
>
> *** WARNING: Do not remove this line under penalty of law ***
>
> "SB" chicbearsmook@hotmail.com writes:
>
> > These are rated 40Amps. $3 per at Princess Auto...I finally found the
one
> > near me and had a chub the whole time I was there!! haha
> >
> > I realized the points won't matter....there ARE numbers on the contacts
> > (5contacts...2-coils, 3-switch {n/o & n/c})....but these numbers don't
lead
> > you to think ones pos or neg!
>
>
>
>
>
>
I picked up some cheap fuse blocks along with the relays and switches. I
don't know IF I'll need to put a fuse block on both power sides of the relay
(light side and switch side)....I figure it couldn't hurt if either end
shorted out....
I've seen some links that say to put one on each side and I like the idea of
a fuse block better than an inline fuse.
"Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
news:20040427223735.07978.00000364@mb-m27.aol.com...
> SB,
>
> I just re-read your previous post about the contact ratings. I believe I
> mis-read it the first time and that you were saying that there are TWO
CONTACTS
> for the coil, not TWO COILS. If so, I apologize for wasting yours and the
> group's time with all that hoo-hah about latching relays. If you meant
that
> there are two contacts marked "COIL," then your relay will fit in the
circuit
> you showed in your link without a problem, as long as those lamps don't
draw a
> combined current of more than 40 amps (i.e., 20 amps each) 'cause they're
wired
> in parallel. Polarity shouldn't be an issue; those reverse-bypass diodes
you
> mentioned generally aren't built-in.
>
> BTW, coil windings generally will operate at 85& of their rated voltage
and can
> usually tolerate up to 110% of it. You can determine the coil's current
rating
> with an ohmmeter because, as this is a DC circuit, its impedance isn't an
issue
> -- find the coil's DC resistance with an ohmmeter and use ohm's law to
> determine its current draw. This will tell you what size fuse to put in
the
> switch circuit. Of course, the lighting circuit will need a 40A/FB.
>
> Have fun!
>
> Scotty
> '99 TJ 4.0L
> '99 XJ 4.0L
> '03 BMW Z4
>
> *** WARNING: Do not remove this line under penalty of law ***
>
> "SB" chicbearsmook@hotmail.com writes:
>
> > These are rated 40Amps. $3 per at Princess Auto...I finally found the
one
> > near me and had a chub the whole time I was there!! haha
> >
> > I realized the points won't matter....there ARE numbers on the contacts
> > (5contacts...2-coils, 3-switch {n/o & n/c})....but these numbers don't
lead
> > you to think ones pos or neg!
>
>
>
>
>
>
04-27-2004, 10:44 PM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Hey don't worry about it. It's information posted for everyone!!
I picked up some cheap fuse blocks along with the relays and switches. I
don't know IF I'll need to put a fuse block on both power sides of the relay
(light side and switch side)....I figure it couldn't hurt if either end
shorted out....
I've seen some links that say to put one on each side and I like the idea of
a fuse block better than an inline fuse.
"Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
news:20040427223735.07978.00000364@mb-m27.aol.com...
> SB,
>
> I just re-read your previous post about the contact ratings. I believe I
> mis-read it the first time and that you were saying that there are TWO
CONTACTS
> for the coil, not TWO COILS. If so, I apologize for wasting yours and the
> group's time with all that hoo-hah about latching relays. If you meant
that
> there are two contacts marked "COIL," then your relay will fit in the
circuit
> you showed in your link without a problem, as long as those lamps don't
draw a
> combined current of more than 40 amps (i.e., 20 amps each) 'cause they're
wired
> in parallel. Polarity shouldn't be an issue; those reverse-bypass diodes
you
> mentioned generally aren't built-in.
>
> BTW, coil windings generally will operate at 85& of their rated voltage
and can
> usually tolerate up to 110% of it. You can determine the coil's current
rating
> with an ohmmeter because, as this is a DC circuit, its impedance isn't an
issue
> -- find the coil's DC resistance with an ohmmeter and use ohm's law to
> determine its current draw. This will tell you what size fuse to put in
the
> switch circuit. Of course, the lighting circuit will need a 40A/FB.
>
> Have fun!
>
> Scotty
> '99 TJ 4.0L
> '99 XJ 4.0L
> '03 BMW Z4
>
> *** WARNING: Do not remove this line under penalty of law ***
>
> "SB" chicbearsmook@hotmail.com writes:
>
> > These are rated 40Amps. $3 per at Princess Auto...I finally found the
one
> > near me and had a chub the whole time I was there!! haha
> >
> > I realized the points won't matter....there ARE numbers on the contacts
> > (5contacts...2-coils, 3-switch {n/o & n/c})....but these numbers don't
lead
> > you to think ones pos or neg!
>
>
>
>
>
>
I picked up some cheap fuse blocks along with the relays and switches. I
don't know IF I'll need to put a fuse block on both power sides of the relay
(light side and switch side)....I figure it couldn't hurt if either end
shorted out....
I've seen some links that say to put one on each side and I like the idea of
a fuse block better than an inline fuse.
"Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
news:20040427223735.07978.00000364@mb-m27.aol.com...
> SB,
>
> I just re-read your previous post about the contact ratings. I believe I
> mis-read it the first time and that you were saying that there are TWO
CONTACTS
> for the coil, not TWO COILS. If so, I apologize for wasting yours and the
> group's time with all that hoo-hah about latching relays. If you meant
that
> there are two contacts marked "COIL," then your relay will fit in the
circuit
> you showed in your link without a problem, as long as those lamps don't
draw a
> combined current of more than 40 amps (i.e., 20 amps each) 'cause they're
wired
> in parallel. Polarity shouldn't be an issue; those reverse-bypass diodes
you
> mentioned generally aren't built-in.
>
> BTW, coil windings generally will operate at 85& of their rated voltage
and can
> usually tolerate up to 110% of it. You can determine the coil's current
rating
> with an ohmmeter because, as this is a DC circuit, its impedance isn't an
issue
> -- find the coil's DC resistance with an ohmmeter and use ohm's law to
> determine its current draw. This will tell you what size fuse to put in
the
> switch circuit. Of course, the lighting circuit will need a 40A/FB.
>
> Have fun!
>
> Scotty
> '99 TJ 4.0L
> '99 XJ 4.0L
> '03 BMW Z4
>
> *** WARNING: Do not remove this line under penalty of law ***
>
> "SB" chicbearsmook@hotmail.com writes:
>
> > These are rated 40Amps. $3 per at Princess Auto...I finally found the
one
> > near me and had a chub the whole time I was there!! haha
> >
> > I realized the points won't matter....there ARE numbers on the contacts
> > (5contacts...2-coils, 3-switch {n/o & n/c})....but these numbers don't
lead
> > you to think ones pos or neg!
>
>
>
>
>
>
04-27-2004, 10:44 PM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Hey don't worry about it. It's information posted for everyone!!
I picked up some cheap fuse blocks along with the relays and switches. I
don't know IF I'll need to put a fuse block on both power sides of the relay
(light side and switch side)....I figure it couldn't hurt if either end
shorted out....
I've seen some links that say to put one on each side and I like the idea of
a fuse block better than an inline fuse.
"Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
news:20040427223735.07978.00000364@mb-m27.aol.com...
> SB,
>
> I just re-read your previous post about the contact ratings. I believe I
> mis-read it the first time and that you were saying that there are TWO
CONTACTS
> for the coil, not TWO COILS. If so, I apologize for wasting yours and the
> group's time with all that hoo-hah about latching relays. If you meant
that
> there are two contacts marked "COIL," then your relay will fit in the
circuit
> you showed in your link without a problem, as long as those lamps don't
draw a
> combined current of more than 40 amps (i.e., 20 amps each) 'cause they're
wired
> in parallel. Polarity shouldn't be an issue; those reverse-bypass diodes
you
> mentioned generally aren't built-in.
>
> BTW, coil windings generally will operate at 85& of their rated voltage
and can
> usually tolerate up to 110% of it. You can determine the coil's current
rating
> with an ohmmeter because, as this is a DC circuit, its impedance isn't an
issue
> -- find the coil's DC resistance with an ohmmeter and use ohm's law to
> determine its current draw. This will tell you what size fuse to put in
the
> switch circuit. Of course, the lighting circuit will need a 40A/FB.
>
> Have fun!
>
> Scotty
> '99 TJ 4.0L
> '99 XJ 4.0L
> '03 BMW Z4
>
> *** WARNING: Do not remove this line under penalty of law ***
>
> "SB" chicbearsmook@hotmail.com writes:
>
> > These are rated 40Amps. $3 per at Princess Auto...I finally found the
one
> > near me and had a chub the whole time I was there!! haha
> >
> > I realized the points won't matter....there ARE numbers on the contacts
> > (5contacts...2-coils, 3-switch {n/o & n/c})....but these numbers don't
lead
> > you to think ones pos or neg!
>
>
>
>
>
>
I picked up some cheap fuse blocks along with the relays and switches. I
don't know IF I'll need to put a fuse block on both power sides of the relay
(light side and switch side)....I figure it couldn't hurt if either end
shorted out....
I've seen some links that say to put one on each side and I like the idea of
a fuse block better than an inline fuse.
"Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
news:20040427223735.07978.00000364@mb-m27.aol.com...
> SB,
>
> I just re-read your previous post about the contact ratings. I believe I
> mis-read it the first time and that you were saying that there are TWO
CONTACTS
> for the coil, not TWO COILS. If so, I apologize for wasting yours and the
> group's time with all that hoo-hah about latching relays. If you meant
that
> there are two contacts marked "COIL," then your relay will fit in the
circuit
> you showed in your link without a problem, as long as those lamps don't
draw a
> combined current of more than 40 amps (i.e., 20 amps each) 'cause they're
wired
> in parallel. Polarity shouldn't be an issue; those reverse-bypass diodes
you
> mentioned generally aren't built-in.
>
> BTW, coil windings generally will operate at 85& of their rated voltage
and can
> usually tolerate up to 110% of it. You can determine the coil's current
rating
> with an ohmmeter because, as this is a DC circuit, its impedance isn't an
issue
> -- find the coil's DC resistance with an ohmmeter and use ohm's law to
> determine its current draw. This will tell you what size fuse to put in
the
> switch circuit. Of course, the lighting circuit will need a 40A/FB.
>
> Have fun!
>
> Scotty
> '99 TJ 4.0L
> '99 XJ 4.0L
> '03 BMW Z4
>
> *** WARNING: Do not remove this line under penalty of law ***
>
> "SB" chicbearsmook@hotmail.com writes:
>
> > These are rated 40Amps. $3 per at Princess Auto...I finally found the
one
> > near me and had a chub the whole time I was there!! haha
> >
> > I realized the points won't matter....there ARE numbers on the contacts
> > (5contacts...2-coils, 3-switch {n/o & n/c})....but these numbers don't
lead
> > you to think ones pos or neg!
>
>
>
>
>
>
04-27-2004, 11:24 PM
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Roughly 4/27/04 16:01, SB's monkeys randomly typed:
> Hey guys,
>
> Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they polarized?
>
> I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg pole on
> the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
You wouldn't need a polarity marking unless the relay has a diode
suppressor, in which case one would expect some manufacturer
willing to spend for the diode to spend to mark the polarity.
--
Evolution is merely survival of the minimally adequate
> Hey guys,
>
> Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they polarized?
>
> I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg pole on
> the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
You wouldn't need a polarity marking unless the relay has a diode
suppressor, in which case one would expect some manufacturer
willing to spend for the diode to spend to mark the polarity.
--
Evolution is merely survival of the minimally adequate
04-27-2004, 11:24 PM
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Roughly 4/27/04 16:01, SB's monkeys randomly typed:
> Hey guys,
>
> Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they polarized?
>
> I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg pole on
> the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
You wouldn't need a polarity marking unless the relay has a diode
suppressor, in which case one would expect some manufacturer
willing to spend for the diode to spend to mark the polarity.
--
Evolution is merely survival of the minimally adequate
> Hey guys,
>
> Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they polarized?
>
> I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg pole on
> the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
You wouldn't need a polarity marking unless the relay has a diode
suppressor, in which case one would expect some manufacturer
willing to spend for the diode to spend to mark the polarity.
--
Evolution is merely survival of the minimally adequate
04-27-2004, 11:24 PM
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Roughly 4/27/04 16:01, SB's monkeys randomly typed:
> Hey guys,
>
> Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they polarized?
>
> I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg pole on
> the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
You wouldn't need a polarity marking unless the relay has a diode
suppressor, in which case one would expect some manufacturer
willing to spend for the diode to spend to mark the polarity.
--
Evolution is merely survival of the minimally adequate
> Hey guys,
>
> Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they polarized?
>
> I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg pole on
> the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
You wouldn't need a polarity marking unless the relay has a diode
suppressor, in which case one would expect some manufacturer
willing to spend for the diode to spend to mark the polarity.
--
Evolution is merely survival of the minimally adequate
04-27-2004, 11:24 PM
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
Roughly 4/27/04 16:01, SB's monkeys randomly typed:
> Hey guys,
>
> Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they polarized?
>
> I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg pole on
> the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
You wouldn't need a polarity marking unless the relay has a diode
suppressor, in which case one would expect some manufacturer
willing to spend for the diode to spend to mark the polarity.
--
Evolution is merely survival of the minimally adequate
> Hey guys,
>
> Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they polarized?
>
> I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg pole on
> the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
You wouldn't need a polarity marking unless the relay has a diode
suppressor, in which case one would expect some manufacturer
willing to spend for the diode to spend to mark the polarity.
--
Evolution is merely survival of the minimally adequate
04-28-2004, 06:06 AM
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dc relay
that being said....do you guys add diodes yourselves?
"L0nD0t.$t0we11" <"L0nD0t.$t0we11"@ComcastDot.Net> wrote in message
news:UtFjc.268$Rd4.96425@attbi_s51...
> Roughly 4/27/04 16:01, SB's monkeys randomly typed:
>
> > Hey guys,
> >
> > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
polarized?
> >
> > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg
pole on
> > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
>
> You wouldn't need a polarity marking unless the relay has a diode
> suppressor, in which case one would expect some manufacturer
> willing to spend for the diode to spend to mark the polarity.
>
> --
> Evolution is merely survival of the minimally adequate
>
"L0nD0t.$t0we11" <"L0nD0t.$t0we11"@ComcastDot.Net> wrote in message
news:UtFjc.268$Rd4.96425@attbi_s51...
> Roughly 4/27/04 16:01, SB's monkeys randomly typed:
>
> > Hey guys,
> >
> > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
polarized?
> >
> > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg
pole on
> > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
>
> You wouldn't need a polarity marking unless the relay has a diode
> suppressor, in which case one would expect some manufacturer
> willing to spend for the diode to spend to mark the polarity.
>
> --
> Evolution is merely survival of the minimally adequate
>
