I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
gets what....

I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!


"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> Thanks Scotty/Bill....
>
> I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't like
to
> 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
>
> These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably was
a
> philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in relation
to
> being surplus and were on sale!
>
> I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent the
> coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech and
> now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
>
> I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
useless
> lol too much!
>
> Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> bottom of the relay.
> (look at 2nd image down)
> http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
>
> Where's my buckleys!
>
>
>
> "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> >
> > > Hey guys,
> > >
> > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> polarized?
> > >
> > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg
> pole on
> > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > >
> > > sb
> >
> > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings usually
> isn't
> > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em up
the
> > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> armatures
> > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But because
you
> say
> > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> polarity.
> >
> > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> voltage and
> > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings are
> usually
> > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too much
> voltage
> > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
source
> can
> > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the winding
> > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is rated
for
> at
> > least 12-16 volts.
> >
> > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage rating
or
> > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
doesn't
> draw
> > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> exceeds
> > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt them,
> start a
> > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> >
> > Scotty
> > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > '03 BMW Z4
> >
> > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>

 

I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
gets what....

I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!


"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> Thanks Scotty/Bill....
>
> I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't like
to
> 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
>
> These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably was
a
> philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in relation
to
> being surplus and were on sale!
>
> I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent the
> coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech and
> now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
>
> I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
useless
> lol too much!
>
> Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> bottom of the relay.
> (look at 2nd image down)
> http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
>
> Where's my buckleys!
>
>
>
> "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> >
> > > Hey guys,
> > >
> > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> polarized?
> > >
> > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg
> pole on
> > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > >
> > > sb
> >
> > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings usually
> isn't
> > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em up
the
> > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> armatures
> > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But because
you
> say
> > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> polarity.
> >
> > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> voltage and
> > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings are
> usually
> > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too much
> voltage
> > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
source
> can
> > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the winding
> > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is rated
for
> at
> > least 12-16 volts.
> >
> > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage rating
or
> > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
doesn't
> draw
> > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> exceeds
> > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt them,
> start a
> > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> >
> > Scotty
> > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > '03 BMW Z4
> >
> > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>

 

I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
gets what....

I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!


"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> Thanks Scotty/Bill....
>
> I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't like
to
> 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
>
> These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably was
a
> philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in relation
to
> being surplus and were on sale!
>
> I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent the
> coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech and
> now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
>
> I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
useless
> lol too much!
>
> Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> bottom of the relay.
> (look at 2nd image down)
> http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
>
> Where's my buckleys!
>
>
>
> "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> >
> > > Hey guys,
> > >
> > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> polarized?
> > >
> > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg
> pole on
> > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > >
> > > sb
> >
> > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings usually
> isn't
> > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em up
the
> > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> armatures
> > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But because
you
> say
> > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> polarity.
> >
> > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> voltage and
> > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings are
> usually
> > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too much
> voltage
> > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
source
> can
> > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the winding
> > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is rated
for
> at
> > least 12-16 volts.
> >
> > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage rating
or
> > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
doesn't
> draw
> > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> exceeds
> > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt them,
> start a
> > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> >
> > Scotty
> > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > '03 BMW Z4
> >
> > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>

 

SB,

Yep, I was just about to ask you if you'd been eating paint chips. <BSEG>

I'm a retired EE myself, worked for the phone company since Alexander wore a
tool belt. <G>

You're right. For a lighting app like this you won't care about polarities. The
only thing that might get tricky is the dual-coil business you mentioned in
your previous post. If these are latching relays, replace the toggle switch in
your circuit with a couple of n/o push-button switches -- one for "ON" and one
for "OFF." Each P/B switch would then activate its corresponding coil.

Good luck!

Scotty
'99 TJ 4.0L
'99 XJ 4.0L
'03 BMW Z4

*** CAUTION: Reading this reply may make you drowsy ***

"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> gets what....
>
> I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
>
>
> "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> >
> > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't like
> to
> > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> >
> > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably was
> a
> > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in relation
> to
> > being surplus and were on sale!
> >
> > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent the
> > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech and
> > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> >
> > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> useless
> > lol too much!
> >
> > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > bottom of the relay.
> > (look at 2nd image down)
> > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> >
> > Where's my buckleys!
> >
> >
> >
> > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > >
> > > > Hey guys,
> > > >
> > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > polarized?
> > > >
> > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg
> > pole on
> > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > >
> > > > sb
> > >
> > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings usually
> > isn't
> > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em up
> the
> > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > armatures
> > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But because
> you
> > say
> > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > polarity.
> > >
> > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > voltage and
> > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings are
> > usually
> > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too much
> > voltage
> > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> source
> > can
> > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the winding
> > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is rated
> for
> > at
> > > least 12-16 volts.
> > >
> > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage rating
> or
> > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> doesn't
> > draw
> > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > exceeds
> > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt them,
> > start a
> > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > >
> > > Scotty
> > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > '03 BMW Z4
> > >
> > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***

 

SB,

Yep, I was just about to ask you if you'd been eating paint chips. <BSEG>

I'm a retired EE myself, worked for the phone company since Alexander wore a
tool belt. <G>

You're right. For a lighting app like this you won't care about polarities. The
only thing that might get tricky is the dual-coil business you mentioned in
your previous post. If these are latching relays, replace the toggle switch in
your circuit with a couple of n/o push-button switches -- one for "ON" and one
for "OFF." Each P/B switch would then activate its corresponding coil.

Good luck!

Scotty
'99 TJ 4.0L
'99 XJ 4.0L
'03 BMW Z4

*** CAUTION: Reading this reply may make you drowsy ***

"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> gets what....
>
> I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
>
>
> "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> >
> > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't like
> to
> > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> >
> > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably was
> a
> > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in relation
> to
> > being surplus and were on sale!
> >
> > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent the
> > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech and
> > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> >
> > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> useless
> > lol too much!
> >
> > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > bottom of the relay.
> > (look at 2nd image down)
> > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> >
> > Where's my buckleys!
> >
> >
> >
> > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > >
> > > > Hey guys,
> > > >
> > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > polarized?
> > > >
> > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg
> > pole on
> > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > >
> > > > sb
> > >
> > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings usually
> > isn't
> > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em up
> the
> > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > armatures
> > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But because
> you
> > say
> > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > polarity.
> > >
> > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > voltage and
> > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings are
> > usually
> > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too much
> > voltage
> > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> source
> > can
> > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the winding
> > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is rated
> for
> > at
> > > least 12-16 volts.
> > >
> > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage rating
> or
> > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> doesn't
> > draw
> > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > exceeds
> > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt them,
> > start a
> > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > >
> > > Scotty
> > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > '03 BMW Z4
> > >
> > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***

 

SB,

Yep, I was just about to ask you if you'd been eating paint chips. <BSEG>

I'm a retired EE myself, worked for the phone company since Alexander wore a
tool belt. <G>

You're right. For a lighting app like this you won't care about polarities. The
only thing that might get tricky is the dual-coil business you mentioned in
your previous post. If these are latching relays, replace the toggle switch in
your circuit with a couple of n/o push-button switches -- one for "ON" and one
for "OFF." Each P/B switch would then activate its corresponding coil.

Good luck!

Scotty
'99 TJ 4.0L
'99 XJ 4.0L
'03 BMW Z4

*** CAUTION: Reading this reply may make you drowsy ***

"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> gets what....
>
> I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
>
>
> "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> >
> > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't like
> to
> > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> >
> > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably was
> a
> > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in relation
> to
> > being surplus and were on sale!
> >
> > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent the
> > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech and
> > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> >
> > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> useless
> > lol too much!
> >
> > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > bottom of the relay.
> > (look at 2nd image down)
> > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> >
> > Where's my buckleys!
> >
> >
> >
> > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > >
> > > > Hey guys,
> > > >
> > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > polarized?
> > > >
> > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg
> > pole on
> > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > >
> > > > sb
> > >
> > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings usually
> > isn't
> > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em up
> the
> > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > armatures
> > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But because
> you
> > say
> > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > polarity.
> > >
> > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > voltage and
> > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings are
> > usually
> > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too much
> > voltage
> > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> source
> > can
> > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the winding
> > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is rated
> for
> > at
> > > least 12-16 volts.
> > >
> > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage rating
> or
> > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> doesn't
> > draw
> > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > exceeds
> > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt them,
> > start a
> > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > >
> > > Scotty
> > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > '03 BMW Z4
> > >
> > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***

 

SB,

Yep, I was just about to ask you if you'd been eating paint chips. <BSEG>

I'm a retired EE myself, worked for the phone company since Alexander wore a
tool belt. <G>

You're right. For a lighting app like this you won't care about polarities. The
only thing that might get tricky is the dual-coil business you mentioned in
your previous post. If these are latching relays, replace the toggle switch in
your circuit with a couple of n/o push-button switches -- one for "ON" and one
for "OFF." Each P/B switch would then activate its corresponding coil.

Good luck!

Scotty
'99 TJ 4.0L
'99 XJ 4.0L
'03 BMW Z4

*** CAUTION: Reading this reply may make you drowsy ***

"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol
> I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which
> gets what....
>
> I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!!
>
>
> "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com...
> > Thanks Scotty/Bill....
> >
> > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't like
> to
> > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D
> >
> > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably was
> a
> > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in relation
> to
> > being surplus and were on sale!
> >
> > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent the
> > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech and
> > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!).
> >
> > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm
> useless
> > lol too much!
> >
> > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the
> > bottom of the relay.
> > (look at 2nd image down)
> > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm
> > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined
> > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno.
> >
> > Where's my buckleys!
> >
> >
> >
> > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message
> > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes:
> > >
> > > > Hey guys,
> > > >
> > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they
> > polarized?
> > > >
> > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a pos/neg
> > pole on
> > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference!
> > > >
> > > > sb
> > >
> > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings usually
> > isn't
> > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em up
> the
> > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact
> > armatures
> > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But because
> you
> > say
> > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with
> > polarity.
> > >
> > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the
> > voltage and
> > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings are
> > usually
> > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too much
> > voltage
> > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power
> source
> > can
> > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the winding
> > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is rated
> for
> > at
> > > least 12-16 volts.
> > >
> > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage rating
> or
> > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load
> doesn't
> > draw
> > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw
> > exceeds
> > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt them,
> > start a
> > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature
> > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed
> > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature.
> > >
> > > Scotty
> > > '99 TJ 4.0L
> > > '99 XJ 4.0L
> > > '03 BMW Z4
> > >
> > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply ***

 

SB,

I just re-read your previous post about the contact ratings. I believe I
mis-read it the first time and that you were saying that there are TWO CONTACTS
for the coil, not TWO COILS. If so, I apologize for wasting yours and the
group's time with all that hoo-hah about latching relays. If you meant that
there are two contacts marked "COIL," then your relay will fit in the circuit
you showed in your link without a problem, as long as those lamps don't draw a
combined current of more than 40 amps (i.e., 20 amps each) 'cause they're wired
in parallel. Polarity shouldn't be an issue; those reverse-bypass diodes you
mentioned generally aren't built-in.

BTW, coil windings generally will operate at 85& of their rated voltage and can
usually tolerate up to 110% of it. You can determine the coil's current rating
with an ohmmeter because, as this is a DC circuit, its impedance isn't an issue
-- find the coil's DC resistance with an ohmmeter and use ohm's law to
determine its current draw. This will tell you what size fuse to put in the
switch circuit. Of course, the lighting circuit will need a 40A/FB.

Have fun!

Scotty
'99 TJ 4.0L
'99 XJ 4.0L
'03 BMW Z4

*** WARNING: Do not remove this line under penalty of law ***

"SB" chicbearsmook@hotmail.com writes:

> These are rated 40Amps. $3 per at Princess Auto...I finally found the one
> near me and had a chub the whole time I was there!! haha
>
> I realized the points won't matter....there ARE numbers on the contacts
> (5contacts...2-coils, 3-switch {n/o & n/c})....but these numbers don't lead
> you to think ones pos or neg!

 

SB,

I just re-read your previous post about the contact ratings. I believe I
mis-read it the first time and that you were saying that there are TWO CONTACTS
for the coil, not TWO COILS. If so, I apologize for wasting yours and the
group's time with all that hoo-hah about latching relays. If you meant that
there are two contacts marked "COIL," then your relay will fit in the circuit
you showed in your link without a problem, as long as those lamps don't draw a
combined current of more than 40 amps (i.e., 20 amps each) 'cause they're wired
in parallel. Polarity shouldn't be an issue; those reverse-bypass diodes you
mentioned generally aren't built-in.

BTW, coil windings generally will operate at 85& of their rated voltage and can
usually tolerate up to 110% of it. You can determine the coil's current rating
with an ohmmeter because, as this is a DC circuit, its impedance isn't an issue
-- find the coil's DC resistance with an ohmmeter and use ohm's law to
determine its current draw. This will tell you what size fuse to put in the
switch circuit. Of course, the lighting circuit will need a 40A/FB.

Have fun!

Scotty
'99 TJ 4.0L
'99 XJ 4.0L
'03 BMW Z4

*** WARNING: Do not remove this line under penalty of law ***

"SB" chicbearsmook@hotmail.com writes:

> These are rated 40Amps. $3 per at Princess Auto...I finally found the one
> near me and had a chub the whole time I was there!! haha
>
> I realized the points won't matter....there ARE numbers on the contacts
> (5contacts...2-coils, 3-switch {n/o & n/c})....but these numbers don't lead
> you to think ones pos or neg!

 

SB,

I just re-read your previous post about the contact ratings. I believe I
mis-read it the first time and that you were saying that there are TWO CONTACTS
for the coil, not TWO COILS. If so, I apologize for wasting yours and the
group's time with all that hoo-hah about latching relays. If you meant that
there are two contacts marked "COIL," then your relay will fit in the circuit
you showed in your link without a problem, as long as those lamps don't draw a
combined current of more than 40 amps (i.e., 20 amps each) 'cause they're wired
in parallel. Polarity shouldn't be an issue; those reverse-bypass diodes you
mentioned generally aren't built-in.

BTW, coil windings generally will operate at 85& of their rated voltage and can
usually tolerate up to 110% of it. You can determine the coil's current rating
with an ohmmeter because, as this is a DC circuit, its impedance isn't an issue
-- find the coil's DC resistance with an ohmmeter and use ohm's law to
determine its current draw. This will tell you what size fuse to put in the
switch circuit. Of course, the lighting circuit will need a 40A/FB.

Have fun!

Scotty
'99 TJ 4.0L
'99 XJ 4.0L
'03 BMW Z4

*** WARNING: Do not remove this line under penalty of law ***

"SB" chicbearsmook@hotmail.com writes:

> These are rated 40Amps. $3 per at Princess Auto...I finally found the one
> near me and had a chub the whole time I was there!! haha
>
> I realized the points won't matter....there ARE numbers on the contacts
> (5contacts...2-coils, 3-switch {n/o & n/c})....but these numbers don't lead
> you to think ones pos or neg!