William Oliveri

Actually my injectors are not new. I bought my kit used so I have no idea
of the condition of the injectors. A good cleaning won't hurt.

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:100bj3lj74pnsf5@corp.supernews.com...
> But, that stuff will not change your compression. Your injectors are new,
> and I assume they are clean. Your compression is high, but within reason.
> You can forget about this "problem" and move on to other things.
>
>
>
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bu4coj$crkgv$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Actually that's what this stuff is. You add it to the gas tank and run
it
> > through the system. It's suppose to clean, clean, clean.
> >
> > http://shop.store.yahoo.com/wyattarp...4kfuelsys.html
> >
> >
> > bill
> >
> > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:100bbel3b9neo54@corp.supernews.com...
> > > You will not clean the injectors by pouring stuff down the intake
> > manifold.
> > >
> > > If you pour into the intake manifold slow enough to not stall the
motor,
> > > there is no danger of hydro-locking the motor. As for the injectors,
you
> > > will clean the very tips of them with this method, but this is not
what
> > they
> > > do when they talk about injector cleaning. To clean the inside of an
> > > injector, you have to introduce the cleaner into the fuel supply
> > somewhere.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > news:bu41g3$csgno$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water
method
> > > once
> > > > and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called
BG
> > 44K
> > > > which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors,
> > carbon,
> > > > etc.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > > "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> > > > > As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading.
> > Too
> > > > many
> > > > > variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an
> > actual
> > > > > number but rather give a % that they should be within to each
other.
> > > > > A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF
> > methods
> > > > are
> > > > > commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour
> it
> > in
> > > > too
> > > > > fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious
damage
> > that
> > > > you
> > > > > won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if
> you
> > > > dump
> > > > > too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it
up
> > when
> > > > the
> > > > > piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the
worst
> > > case,
> > > > > but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston
> like
> > > that
> > > > > or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to
frequently
> > > bend
> > > > > the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's
bent
> > but
> > > > now
> > > > > the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------
> > evenly
> > > > > across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod
knock.
> > > Gets
> > > > > worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or
it
> > > spins
> > > > in
> > > > > the rod and takes out the crank too.
> > > > > Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks
off
> if
> > > > it's
> > > > > really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually
> sit
> > on
> > > > top
> > > > > of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding
> against
> > > the
> > > > > head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with
> water
> > > or
> > > > > whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will
> > start
> > > > > knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it
will
> go
> > > > away
> > > > > after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short
> time.
> > > > I've
> > > > > also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from
> > > closing
> > > > > and have to remove the head to correct it.
> > > > > These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and
> > > wannabees
> > > > > that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this
particular
> > > > instance
> > > > > with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's
a
> > > carbon
> > > > > buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run
at
> > > > highway
> > > > > speeds.
> > > > > Steve
> > > > >
> > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > > > > diagnosised
> > > > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of
150
> > psi
> > > > per
> > > > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
> > Great.
> > > > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
> > have
> > > > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that?
Could
> > the
> > > > test
> > > > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
> > really
> > > > is?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Bill
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

William Oliveri

Actually my injectors are not new. I bought my kit used so I have no idea
of the condition of the injectors. A good cleaning won't hurt.

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:100bj3lj74pnsf5@corp.supernews.com...
> But, that stuff will not change your compression. Your injectors are new,
> and I assume they are clean. Your compression is high, but within reason.
> You can forget about this "problem" and move on to other things.
>
>
>
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bu4coj$crkgv$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Actually that's what this stuff is. You add it to the gas tank and run
it
> > through the system. It's suppose to clean, clean, clean.
> >
> > http://shop.store.yahoo.com/wyattarp...4kfuelsys.html
> >
> >
> > bill
> >
> > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:100bbel3b9neo54@corp.supernews.com...
> > > You will not clean the injectors by pouring stuff down the intake
> > manifold.
> > >
> > > If you pour into the intake manifold slow enough to not stall the
motor,
> > > there is no danger of hydro-locking the motor. As for the injectors,
you
> > > will clean the very tips of them with this method, but this is not
what
> > they
> > > do when they talk about injector cleaning. To clean the inside of an
> > > injector, you have to introduce the cleaner into the fuel supply
> > somewhere.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > news:bu41g3$csgno$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water
method
> > > once
> > > > and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called
BG
> > 44K
> > > > which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors,
> > carbon,
> > > > etc.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > > "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> > > > > As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading.
> > Too
> > > > many
> > > > > variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an
> > actual
> > > > > number but rather give a % that they should be within to each
other.
> > > > > A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF
> > methods
> > > > are
> > > > > commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour
> it
> > in
> > > > too
> > > > > fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious
damage
> > that
> > > > you
> > > > > won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if
> you
> > > > dump
> > > > > too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it
up
> > when
> > > > the
> > > > > piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the
worst
> > > case,
> > > > > but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston
> like
> > > that
> > > > > or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to
frequently
> > > bend
> > > > > the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's
bent
> > but
> > > > now
> > > > > the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------
> > evenly
> > > > > across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod
knock.
> > > Gets
> > > > > worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or
it
> > > spins
> > > > in
> > > > > the rod and takes out the crank too.
> > > > > Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks
off
> if
> > > > it's
> > > > > really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually
> sit
> > on
> > > > top
> > > > > of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding
> against
> > > the
> > > > > head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with
> water
> > > or
> > > > > whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will
> > start
> > > > > knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it
will
> go
> > > > away
> > > > > after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short
> time.
> > > > I've
> > > > > also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from
> > > closing
> > > > > and have to remove the head to correct it.
> > > > > These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and
> > > wannabees
> > > > > that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this
particular
> > > > instance
> > > > > with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's
a
> > > carbon
> > > > > buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run
at
> > > > highway
> > > > > speeds.
> > > > > Steve
> > > > >
> > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > > > > diagnosised
> > > > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of
150
> > psi
> > > > per
> > > > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
> > Great.
> > > > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
> > have
> > > > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that?
Could
> > the
> > > > test
> > > > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
> > really
> > > > is?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Bill
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

William Oliveri

Actually my injectors are not new. I bought my kit used so I have no idea
of the condition of the injectors. A good cleaning won't hurt.

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:100bj3lj74pnsf5@corp.supernews.com...
> But, that stuff will not change your compression. Your injectors are new,
> and I assume they are clean. Your compression is high, but within reason.
> You can forget about this "problem" and move on to other things.
>
>
>
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bu4coj$crkgv$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Actually that's what this stuff is. You add it to the gas tank and run
it
> > through the system. It's suppose to clean, clean, clean.
> >
> > http://shop.store.yahoo.com/wyattarp...4kfuelsys.html
> >
> >
> > bill
> >
> > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:100bbel3b9neo54@corp.supernews.com...
> > > You will not clean the injectors by pouring stuff down the intake
> > manifold.
> > >
> > > If you pour into the intake manifold slow enough to not stall the
motor,
> > > there is no danger of hydro-locking the motor. As for the injectors,
you
> > > will clean the very tips of them with this method, but this is not
what
> > they
> > > do when they talk about injector cleaning. To clean the inside of an
> > > injector, you have to introduce the cleaner into the fuel supply
> > somewhere.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > news:bu41g3$csgno$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water
method
> > > once
> > > > and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called
BG
> > 44K
> > > > which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors,
> > carbon,
> > > > etc.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > > "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> > > > > As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading.
> > Too
> > > > many
> > > > > variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an
> > actual
> > > > > number but rather give a % that they should be within to each
other.
> > > > > A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF
> > methods
> > > > are
> > > > > commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour
> it
> > in
> > > > too
> > > > > fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious
damage
> > that
> > > > you
> > > > > won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if
> you
> > > > dump
> > > > > too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it
up
> > when
> > > > the
> > > > > piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the
worst
> > > case,
> > > > > but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston
> like
> > > that
> > > > > or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to
frequently
> > > bend
> > > > > the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's
bent
> > but
> > > > now
> > > > > the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------
> > evenly
> > > > > across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod
knock.
> > > Gets
> > > > > worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or
it
> > > spins
> > > > in
> > > > > the rod and takes out the crank too.
> > > > > Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks
off
> if
> > > > it's
> > > > > really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually
> sit
> > on
> > > > top
> > > > > of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding
> against
> > > the
> > > > > head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with
> water
> > > or
> > > > > whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will
> > start
> > > > > knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it
will
> go
> > > > away
> > > > > after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short
> time.
> > > > I've
> > > > > also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from
> > > closing
> > > > > and have to remove the head to correct it.
> > > > > These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and
> > > wannabees
> > > > > that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this
particular
> > > > instance
> > > > > with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's
a
> > > carbon
> > > > > buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run
at
> > > > highway
> > > > > speeds.
> > > > > Steve
> > > > >
> > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > > > > diagnosised
> > > > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of
150
> > psi
> > > > per
> > > > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
> > Great.
> > > > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
> > have
> > > > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that?
Could
> > the
> > > > test
> > > > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
> > really
> > > > is?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Bill
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

CRWLR

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bu4jht$dtgkd$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Actually my injectors are not new. I bought my kit used so I have no idea
> of the condition of the injectors. A good cleaning won't hurt.
>

Sorry, I forgot that you bought a used kit. Yes, a good cleaning never
hurts. It won't change the compression, but it certainly won't hurt.

CRWLR

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bu4jht$dtgkd$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Actually my injectors are not new. I bought my kit used so I have no idea
> of the condition of the injectors. A good cleaning won't hurt.
>

Sorry, I forgot that you bought a used kit. Yes, a good cleaning never
hurts. It won't change the compression, but it certainly won't hurt.

CRWLR

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bu4jht$dtgkd$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Actually my injectors are not new. I bought my kit used so I have no idea
> of the condition of the injectors. A good cleaning won't hurt.
>

Sorry, I forgot that you bought a used kit. Yes, a good cleaning never
hurts. It won't change the compression, but it certainly won't hurt.

Drink

Hey Mike,
How slowly is "slowly". Are we talking about a pouring stream with
thickness of a #2 pencil lead or the thickness of the whole pencil?
(Not being sarcastic. I just thought I'd ask to clarify the term.)
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40045023.D6A67498@sympatico.ca...
> I like to smoke out my neighbors just to **** one off and use a pint of
> ATF poured very slowly down the throat of the carb to burn the carbon
> away.
>
> I get the engine hot and slowly pour it in while keeping the rpm up with
> my hand on the throttle linkages. You don't want it to stall.
>
> This method works excellently and makes them clean like new inside. I
> have opened them up after. I use that as a prep before a head gasket
> job too.
>
> I have been told by lots of folks that a pint of water poured in the
> same way will do the same job minus the smoke cloud. ATF does make one
> serious cloud of smoke...
>
> If it isn't pinging or dieseling, then a good hard day wheeling with
> some high rpm or a hard highway run will clean them out good too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Anyway to clean carbon build up? Is there any product available to do
this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40044741.2F07BE69@sympatico.ca...
> > > Very few gauges are accurate or will read the same on the same engine.
> > >
> > > If they are all even, that's a good thing. Too high can mean carbon
> > > buildup.
> > >
> > > Normally carbon isn't a problem until you start to get spark knock or
> > > ping or until it starts dieseling or running on after the key is
turned
> > > off.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > diagnosised
> > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150
psi
> > per
> > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
Great.
> > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
have
> > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > >
> > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could
the
> > test
> > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
really
> > is?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill

Drink

Hey Mike,
How slowly is "slowly". Are we talking about a pouring stream with
thickness of a #2 pencil lead or the thickness of the whole pencil?
(Not being sarcastic. I just thought I'd ask to clarify the term.)
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40045023.D6A67498@sympatico.ca...
> I like to smoke out my neighbors just to **** one off and use a pint of
> ATF poured very slowly down the throat of the carb to burn the carbon
> away.
>
> I get the engine hot and slowly pour it in while keeping the rpm up with
> my hand on the throttle linkages. You don't want it to stall.
>
> This method works excellently and makes them clean like new inside. I
> have opened them up after. I use that as a prep before a head gasket
> job too.
>
> I have been told by lots of folks that a pint of water poured in the
> same way will do the same job minus the smoke cloud. ATF does make one
> serious cloud of smoke...
>
> If it isn't pinging or dieseling, then a good hard day wheeling with
> some high rpm or a hard highway run will clean them out good too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Anyway to clean carbon build up? Is there any product available to do
this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40044741.2F07BE69@sympatico.ca...
> > > Very few gauges are accurate or will read the same on the same engine.
> > >
> > > If they are all even, that's a good thing. Too high can mean carbon
> > > buildup.
> > >
> > > Normally carbon isn't a problem until you start to get spark knock or
> > > ping or until it starts dieseling or running on after the key is
turned
> > > off.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > diagnosised
> > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150
psi
> > per
> > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
Great.
> > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
have
> > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > >
> > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could
the
> > test
> > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
really
> > is?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill

Drink

Hey Mike,
How slowly is "slowly". Are we talking about a pouring stream with
thickness of a #2 pencil lead or the thickness of the whole pencil?
(Not being sarcastic. I just thought I'd ask to clarify the term.)
o_o_o_o
Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40045023.D6A67498@sympatico.ca...
> I like to smoke out my neighbors just to **** one off and use a pint of
> ATF poured very slowly down the throat of the carb to burn the carbon
> away.
>
> I get the engine hot and slowly pour it in while keeping the rpm up with
> my hand on the throttle linkages. You don't want it to stall.
>
> This method works excellently and makes them clean like new inside. I
> have opened them up after. I use that as a prep before a head gasket
> job too.
>
> I have been told by lots of folks that a pint of water poured in the
> same way will do the same job minus the smoke cloud. ATF does make one
> serious cloud of smoke...
>
> If it isn't pinging or dieseling, then a good hard day wheeling with
> some high rpm or a hard highway run will clean them out good too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Anyway to clean carbon build up? Is there any product available to do
this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40044741.2F07BE69@sympatico.ca...
> > > Very few gauges are accurate or will read the same on the same engine.
> > >
> > > If they are all even, that's a good thing. Too high can mean carbon
> > > buildup.
> > >
> > > Normally carbon isn't a problem until you start to get spark knock or
> > > ping or until it starts dieseling or running on after the key is
turned
> > > off.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > diagnosised
> > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150
psi
> > per
> > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
Great.
> > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
have
> > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > >
> > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could
the
> > test
> > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
really
> > is?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill

Mike Romain

Close to the pencil size. If you have your hand on the throttle and are
keeping it say at 1200 rpm or so so it won't stall, the pour speed will
be obvious. Too fast and the engine will start to chug down fast.

Mike

Drink wrote:
>
> Hey Mike,
> How slowly is "slowly". Are we talking about a pouring stream with
> thickness of a #2 pencil lead or the thickness of the whole pencil?
> (Not being sarcastic. I just thought I'd ask to clarify the term.)
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40045023.D6A67498@sympatico.ca...
> > I like to smoke out my neighbors just to **** one off and use a pint of
> > ATF poured very slowly down the throat of the carb to burn the carbon
> > away.
> >
> > I get the engine hot and slowly pour it in while keeping the rpm up with
> > my hand on the throttle linkages. You don't want it to stall.
> >
> > This method works excellently and makes them clean like new inside. I
> > have opened them up after. I use that as a prep before a head gasket
> > job too.
> >
> > I have been told by lots of folks that a pint of water poured in the
> > same way will do the same job minus the smoke cloud. ATF does make one
> > serious cloud of smoke...
> >
> > If it isn't pinging or dieseling, then a good hard day wheeling with
> > some high rpm or a hard highway run will clean them out good too.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Anyway to clean carbon build up? Is there any product available to do
> this?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:40044741.2F07BE69@sympatico.ca...
> > > > Very few gauges are accurate or will read the same on the same engine.
> > > >
> > > > If they are all even, that's a good thing. Too high can mean carbon
> > > > buildup.
> > > >
> > > > Normally carbon isn't a problem until you start to get spark knock or
> > > > ping or until it starts dieseling or running on after the key is
> turned
> > > > off.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > > diagnosised
> > > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150
> psi
> > > per
> > > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
> Great.
> > > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
> have
> > > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > > >
> > > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could
> the
> > > test
> > > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
> really
> > > is?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill