Carlo

I got hooked on "Carbon Guard". My neighbor used to be an instructor @ OMC
(they make Johnson boat engines). My Scout was spitting & coughing because
the #8 cylinder was oil fouling. He brought over a couple of bottles for me
to try. He poured a full bottle down the carb & said to use one oz/15gal of
gas in the tank. It was still pretty bad for about 2 tankfuls after that & I
was getting ready to just give up & rebuild it. I was low on money & didn't
want to but it seemed as if I just didn't have any other choice. AND
THEN......................it was a miracle. I was coming home from work, it
was dark & I was tired, & all of a sudden the engine started bucking, &
backfiring. I didn't think I was going to make it home & began to look for a
place to coast to a stop on the side of the road. As quickly as it started
spitting & choking, it just, all of a sudden smoothed out & purred. Swear to
God - I ---- you not..........It won't run more than 2 tanks of gas without
it. I have a 32 gal tank & put an oz or 2 every time I fill up. I use it
once a month or so in the other vehicles. It works for me - costs
$10.00/12oz btl - & you only use 1oz/15gal - and you get it @ any johnson
outboard dealer

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"jbjeep" <jbjeep@saw.net> wrote in message
news:p17900pe41e7shseck3slr96lir29pnrub@4ax.com...
> Dont know what you drive, but my mechanic has me use a product called BG
Carbon
> Cleaner (aprox $25 a can) for my fuel injected car, one cylinder was
reading a lot
> lower than the others. He suspected carbon buildup. One can of the
cleaner and it
> cleared right up and they all read very close the last time I had him
check it.
>
>
> On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:46:21 -0800, "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net>
wrote:
>
> >>Anyway to clean carbon build up? Is there any product available to do
this?
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>
> >>Bill
> >>
> >>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> >>news:40044741.2F07BE69@sympatico.ca...
> >>> Very few gauges are accurate or will read the same on the same engine.
> >>>
> >>> If they are all even, that's a good thing. Too high can mean carbon
> >>> buildup.
> >>>
> >>> Normally carbon isn't a problem until you start to get spark knock or
> >>> ping or until it starts dieseling or running on after the key is
turned
> >>> off.
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>> William Oliveri wrote:
> >>> >
> >>> > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> >>diagnosised
> >>> > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150
psi
> >>per
> >>> > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
Great.
> >>> > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
have
> >>> > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> >>> >
> >>> > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could
the
> >>test
> >>> > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
really
> >>is?
> >>> >
> >>> > Thanks,
> >>> >
> >>> > Bill
> >>
>

Carlo

I got hooked on "Carbon Guard". My neighbor used to be an instructor @ OMC
(they make Johnson boat engines). My Scout was spitting & coughing because
the #8 cylinder was oil fouling. He brought over a couple of bottles for me
to try. He poured a full bottle down the carb & said to use one oz/15gal of
gas in the tank. It was still pretty bad for about 2 tankfuls after that & I
was getting ready to just give up & rebuild it. I was low on money & didn't
want to but it seemed as if I just didn't have any other choice. AND
THEN......................it was a miracle. I was coming home from work, it
was dark & I was tired, & all of a sudden the engine started bucking, &
backfiring. I didn't think I was going to make it home & began to look for a
place to coast to a stop on the side of the road. As quickly as it started
spitting & choking, it just, all of a sudden smoothed out & purred. Swear to
God - I ---- you not..........It won't run more than 2 tanks of gas without
it. I have a 32 gal tank & put an oz or 2 every time I fill up. I use it
once a month or so in the other vehicles. It works for me - costs
$10.00/12oz btl - & you only use 1oz/15gal - and you get it @ any johnson
outboard dealer

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"jbjeep" <jbjeep@saw.net> wrote in message
news:p17900pe41e7shseck3slr96lir29pnrub@4ax.com...
> Dont know what you drive, but my mechanic has me use a product called BG
Carbon
> Cleaner (aprox $25 a can) for my fuel injected car, one cylinder was
reading a lot
> lower than the others. He suspected carbon buildup. One can of the
cleaner and it
> cleared right up and they all read very close the last time I had him
check it.
>
>
> On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:46:21 -0800, "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net>
wrote:
>
> >>Anyway to clean carbon build up? Is there any product available to do
this?
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>
> >>Bill
> >>
> >>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> >>news:40044741.2F07BE69@sympatico.ca...
> >>> Very few gauges are accurate or will read the same on the same engine.
> >>>
> >>> If they are all even, that's a good thing. Too high can mean carbon
> >>> buildup.
> >>>
> >>> Normally carbon isn't a problem until you start to get spark knock or
> >>> ping or until it starts dieseling or running on after the key is
turned
> >>> off.
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>> William Oliveri wrote:
> >>> >
> >>> > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> >>diagnosised
> >>> > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150
psi
> >>per
> >>> > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
Great.
> >>> > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
have
> >>> > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> >>> >
> >>> > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could
the
> >>test
> >>> > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
really
> >>is?
> >>> >
> >>> > Thanks,
> >>> >
> >>> > Bill
> >>
>

William Oliveri

Funny, I went back and double checked and yes, the FSM says 120 to 140 but I
have another, newer training manual for the I6 4.0 and 4.2 and there, for
the 4.2, it says 120 to 150 so I guess I'm right in line.

bill

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40048744.42261441@sympatico.ca...
> My book says 150 and my old one had 145 all across when I replaced it
> with a lower mileage one.
>
> Mike
>
> bowgus wrote:
> >
> > My understanding ,,, water creates steam ,,, which may remove the oil
from
> > parts like valvestems, rings and so on ,,, which is not good. If it was
me
> > and I had a carbon problem, I'd first figure out what was causing it,
then
> > fix it (not that I haven't had a few old beaters that carboned up
> > regularly).
> >
> > And if I had 150 out of 140 ,,, I'd consider myself a lucky guy and go
buy a
> > coupla lottery tickets :-)
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40045023.D6A67498@sympatico.ca...
> > > I like to smoke out my neighbors just to **** one off and use a pint
of
> > > ATF poured very slowly down the throat of the carb to burn the carbon
> > > away.
> > >
> > > I get the engine hot and slowly pour it in while keeping the rpm up
with
> > > my hand on the throttle linkages. You don't want it to stall.
> > >
> > > This method works excellently and makes them clean like new inside. I
> > > have opened them up after. I use that as a prep before a head gasket
> > > job too.
> > >
> > > I have been told by lots of folks that a pint of water poured in the
> > > same way will do the same job minus the smoke cloud. ATF does make
one
> > > serious cloud of smoke...
> > >
> > > If it isn't pinging or dieseling, then a good hard day wheeling with
> > > some high rpm or a hard highway run will clean them out good too.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Anyway to clean carbon build up? Is there any product available to
do
> > this?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:40044741.2F07BE69@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > Very few gauges are accurate or will read the same on the same
engine.
> > > > >
> > > > > If they are all even, that's a good thing. Too high can mean
carbon
> > > > > buildup.
> > > > >
> > > > > Normally carbon isn't a problem until you start to get spark knock
or
> > > > > ping or until it starts dieseling or running on after the key is
> > turned
> > > > > off.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > > > diagnosised
> > > > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of
150
> > psi
> > > > per
> > > > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
> > Great.
> > > > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
> > have
> > > > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that?
Could
> > the
> > > > test
> > > > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
> > really
> > > > is?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Bill

William Oliveri

Funny, I went back and double checked and yes, the FSM says 120 to 140 but I
have another, newer training manual for the I6 4.0 and 4.2 and there, for
the 4.2, it says 120 to 150 so I guess I'm right in line.

bill

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40048744.42261441@sympatico.ca...
> My book says 150 and my old one had 145 all across when I replaced it
> with a lower mileage one.
>
> Mike
>
> bowgus wrote:
> >
> > My understanding ,,, water creates steam ,,, which may remove the oil
from
> > parts like valvestems, rings and so on ,,, which is not good. If it was
me
> > and I had a carbon problem, I'd first figure out what was causing it,
then
> > fix it (not that I haven't had a few old beaters that carboned up
> > regularly).
> >
> > And if I had 150 out of 140 ,,, I'd consider myself a lucky guy and go
buy a
> > coupla lottery tickets :-)
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40045023.D6A67498@sympatico.ca...
> > > I like to smoke out my neighbors just to **** one off and use a pint
of
> > > ATF poured very slowly down the throat of the carb to burn the carbon
> > > away.
> > >
> > > I get the engine hot and slowly pour it in while keeping the rpm up
with
> > > my hand on the throttle linkages. You don't want it to stall.
> > >
> > > This method works excellently and makes them clean like new inside. I
> > > have opened them up after. I use that as a prep before a head gasket
> > > job too.
> > >
> > > I have been told by lots of folks that a pint of water poured in the
> > > same way will do the same job minus the smoke cloud. ATF does make
one
> > > serious cloud of smoke...
> > >
> > > If it isn't pinging or dieseling, then a good hard day wheeling with
> > > some high rpm or a hard highway run will clean them out good too.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Anyway to clean carbon build up? Is there any product available to
do
> > this?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:40044741.2F07BE69@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > Very few gauges are accurate or will read the same on the same
engine.
> > > > >
> > > > > If they are all even, that's a good thing. Too high can mean
carbon
> > > > > buildup.
> > > > >
> > > > > Normally carbon isn't a problem until you start to get spark knock
or
> > > > > ping or until it starts dieseling or running on after the key is
> > turned
> > > > > off.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > > > diagnosised
> > > > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of
150
> > psi
> > > > per
> > > > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
> > Great.
> > > > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
> > have
> > > > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that?
Could
> > the
> > > > test
> > > > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
> > really
> > > > is?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Bill

William Oliveri

Funny, I went back and double checked and yes, the FSM says 120 to 140 but I
have another, newer training manual for the I6 4.0 and 4.2 and there, for
the 4.2, it says 120 to 150 so I guess I'm right in line.

bill

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40048744.42261441@sympatico.ca...
> My book says 150 and my old one had 145 all across when I replaced it
> with a lower mileage one.
>
> Mike
>
> bowgus wrote:
> >
> > My understanding ,,, water creates steam ,,, which may remove the oil
from
> > parts like valvestems, rings and so on ,,, which is not good. If it was
me
> > and I had a carbon problem, I'd first figure out what was causing it,
then
> > fix it (not that I haven't had a few old beaters that carboned up
> > regularly).
> >
> > And if I had 150 out of 140 ,,, I'd consider myself a lucky guy and go
buy a
> > coupla lottery tickets :-)
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40045023.D6A67498@sympatico.ca...
> > > I like to smoke out my neighbors just to **** one off and use a pint
of
> > > ATF poured very slowly down the throat of the carb to burn the carbon
> > > away.
> > >
> > > I get the engine hot and slowly pour it in while keeping the rpm up
with
> > > my hand on the throttle linkages. You don't want it to stall.
> > >
> > > This method works excellently and makes them clean like new inside. I
> > > have opened them up after. I use that as a prep before a head gasket
> > > job too.
> > >
> > > I have been told by lots of folks that a pint of water poured in the
> > > same way will do the same job minus the smoke cloud. ATF does make
one
> > > serious cloud of smoke...
> > >
> > > If it isn't pinging or dieseling, then a good hard day wheeling with
> > > some high rpm or a hard highway run will clean them out good too.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Anyway to clean carbon build up? Is there any product available to
do
> > this?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:40044741.2F07BE69@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > Very few gauges are accurate or will read the same on the same
engine.
> > > > >
> > > > > If they are all even, that's a good thing. Too high can mean
carbon
> > > > > buildup.
> > > > >
> > > > > Normally carbon isn't a problem until you start to get spark knock
or
> > > > > ping or until it starts dieseling or running on after the key is
> > turned
> > > > > off.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > > > diagnosised
> > > > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of
150
> > psi
> > > > per
> > > > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
> > Great.
> > > > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
> > have
> > > > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that?
Could
> > the
> > > > test
> > > > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
> > really
> > > > is?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Bill

Steve G

As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading. Too many
variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an actual
number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF methods are
commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour it in too
fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage that you
won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if you dump
too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up when the
piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst case,
but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston like that
or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently bend
the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent but now
the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------ evenly
across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock. Gets
worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it spins in
the rod and takes out the crank too.
Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off if it's
really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually sit on top
of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding against the
head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with water or
whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will start
knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will go away
after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short time. I've
also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from closing
and have to remove the head to correct it.
These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and wannabees
that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular instance
with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a carbon
buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at highway
speeds.
Steve

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
diagnosised
> for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150 psi per
> cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking Great.
> However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should have
> between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
>
> Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could the test
> be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it really is?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>

Steve G

As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading. Too many
variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an actual
number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF methods are
commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour it in too
fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage that you
won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if you dump
too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up when the
piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst case,
but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston like that
or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently bend
the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent but now
the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------ evenly
across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock. Gets
worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it spins in
the rod and takes out the crank too.
Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off if it's
really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually sit on top
of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding against the
head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with water or
whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will start
knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will go away
after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short time. I've
also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from closing
and have to remove the head to correct it.
These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and wannabees
that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular instance
with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a carbon
buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at highway
speeds.
Steve

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
diagnosised
> for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150 psi per
> cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking Great.
> However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should have
> between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
>
> Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could the test
> be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it really is?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>

Steve G

As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading. Too many
variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an actual
number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF methods are
commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour it in too
fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage that you
won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if you dump
too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up when the
piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst case,
but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston like that
or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently bend
the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent but now
the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------ evenly
across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock. Gets
worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it spins in
the rod and takes out the crank too.
Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off if it's
really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually sit on top
of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding against the
head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with water or
whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will start
knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will go away
after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short time. I've
also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from closing
and have to remove the head to correct it.
These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and wannabees
that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular instance
with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a carbon
buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at highway
speeds.
Steve

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
diagnosised
> for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150 psi per
> cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking Great.
> However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should have
> between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
>
> Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could the test
> be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it really is?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>

William Oliveri

Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water method once
and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called BG 44K
which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors, carbon,
etc.

Thanks,

Bill

"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading. Too
many
> variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an actual
> number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
> A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF methods
are
> commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour it in
too
> fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage that
you
> won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if you
dump
> too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up when
the
> piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst case,
> but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston like that
> or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently bend
> the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent but
now
> the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------ evenly
> across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock. Gets
> worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it spins
in
> the rod and takes out the crank too.
> Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off if
it's
> really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually sit on
top
> of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding against the
> head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with water or
> whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will start
> knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will go
away
> after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short time.
I've
> also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from closing
> and have to remove the head to correct it.
> These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and wannabees
> that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular
instance
> with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a carbon
> buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at
highway
> speeds.
> Steve
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> diagnosised
> > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150 psi
per
> > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking Great.
> > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should have
> > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> >
> > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could the
test
> > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it really
is?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>

William Oliveri

Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water method once
and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called BG 44K
which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors, carbon,
etc.

Thanks,

Bill

"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading. Too
many
> variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an actual
> number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
> A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF methods
are
> commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour it in
too
> fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage that
you
> won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if you
dump
> too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up when
the
> piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst case,
> but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston like that
> or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently bend
> the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent but
now
> the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------ evenly
> across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock. Gets
> worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it spins
in
> the rod and takes out the crank too.
> Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off if
it's
> really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually sit on
top
> of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding against the
> head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with water or
> whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will start
> knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will go
away
> after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short time.
I've
> also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from closing
> and have to remove the head to correct it.
> These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and wannabees
> that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular
instance
> with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a carbon
> buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at
highway
> speeds.
> Steve
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> diagnosised
> > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150 psi
per
> > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking Great.
> > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should have
> > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> >
> > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could the
test
> > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it really
is?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>