i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
done to get it back running is the following:

Things needing to be completed on engine:
Adjust valves (roller rockers)
Install distributor and set timing
plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt

how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
car engine in a boat?


Thanks

 

greend wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?

Well, I worked on a chevy 305 for about ten years, the engine is bone
simple. Your going to have to love working on engines. Valves are easy
as is the distributor, I suggest an HEI unit.

You didn't say if it was a later model with fuel injection or a carb.
The carb will give you fits in a boat.

I'm not 100% that a car engine belongs in a boat. Usually they are dry
sump to prevent oil starvation in rough conditions.

Might hit one of the boat groups.

--
DougW

 

greend wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?

Well, I worked on a chevy 305 for about ten years, the engine is bone
simple. Your going to have to love working on engines. Valves are easy
as is the distributor, I suggest an HEI unit.

You didn't say if it was a later model with fuel injection or a carb.
The carb will give you fits in a boat.

I'm not 100% that a car engine belongs in a boat. Usually they are dry
sump to prevent oil starvation in rough conditions.

Might hit one of the boat groups.

--
DougW

 

greend wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?

Well, I worked on a chevy 305 for about ten years, the engine is bone
simple. Your going to have to love working on engines. Valves are easy
as is the distributor, I suggest an HEI unit.

You didn't say if it was a later model with fuel injection or a carb.
The carb will give you fits in a boat.

I'm not 100% that a car engine belongs in a boat. Usually they are dry
sump to prevent oil starvation in rough conditions.

Might hit one of the boat groups.

--
DougW

 

greend wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?

Well, I worked on a chevy 305 for about ten years, the engine is bone
simple. Your going to have to love working on engines. Valves are easy
as is the distributor, I suggest an HEI unit.

You didn't say if it was a later model with fuel injection or a carb.
The carb will give you fits in a boat.

I'm not 100% that a car engine belongs in a boat. Usually they are dry
sump to prevent oil starvation in rough conditions.

Might hit one of the boat groups.

--
DougW

 

You are basically buying a boat with 'no' engine. You do have an extra
boat anchor thrown in though.

If the boat is priced the same as one with no engine, then fine
otherwise run fast.

The same holds true for any vehicle one might buy. If the engine is in
the shape described, it is considered junk or worse a failed project.

Normally those are cheaper just to toss the junk and start new.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

greend@hotmail.com wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?
>
>
> Thanks
>

 

You are basically buying a boat with 'no' engine. You do have an extra
boat anchor thrown in though.

If the boat is priced the same as one with no engine, then fine
otherwise run fast.

The same holds true for any vehicle one might buy. If the engine is in
the shape described, it is considered junk or worse a failed project.

Normally those are cheaper just to toss the junk and start new.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

greend@hotmail.com wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?
>
>
> Thanks
>

 

You are basically buying a boat with 'no' engine. You do have an extra
boat anchor thrown in though.

If the boat is priced the same as one with no engine, then fine
otherwise run fast.

The same holds true for any vehicle one might buy. If the engine is in
the shape described, it is considered junk or worse a failed project.

Normally those are cheaper just to toss the junk and start new.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

greend@hotmail.com wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?
>
>
> Thanks
>

 

You are basically buying a boat with 'no' engine. You do have an extra
boat anchor thrown in though.

If the boat is priced the same as one with no engine, then fine
otherwise run fast.

The same holds true for any vehicle one might buy. If the engine is in
the shape described, it is considered junk or worse a failed project.

Normally those are cheaper just to toss the junk and start new.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

greend@hotmail.com wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?
>
>
> Thanks
>

 

It really depends on what type of boat it is and what it was used for.
As far as being a car engine in a boat. there are a lot of those around,
but they should never be used in saltwater. Marine engines have
brass/bronze inserts cast into things like manifold cooling passages to
prevent saltwater corrosion.

If the engine sit in an enclosure or below the floor sealed with the
bilge area, then you NEED to make sure that the alternator, starter,
distributor, and air cleaner are all spark arresting, Coast Guard
approved. One spark or carburetor backfire without the proper equipment
and a bilge area full of gas fumes becomes a bomb. This is not only for
safety, but you can get fines for not having these items on your boat if
it ever gets inspected. Here on the Great Lakes, the Coast Guard does do
random inspections.

All that being said, adjusting the lifters and the rest are not too
difficult. One thing you do need to know is if the lifters are hydraulic
or solid. A lot of the older boats used solid lifters, and setting them
is much different than hydraulics. Usually a hydraulic lifter can be
detected by pushing down on the pushrod to see if the plunger inside the
lifter moves. The plunger is where the pushrod sits in the lifter. If
the plunger does compress down, and then come back up when you let go of
the pushrod, then the lifters are hydraulic. Really the best thing to do
would be to find out what camshaft the previous owner installed, and see
if he has the spec card that came with the camshaft. If the cam card
says the lash setting is zero, then it's hydraulic, and if it gives a
lash setting like 0.020 then the camshaft is mechanical and uses solid
lifters.

Please find this stuff out first and post back. The procedure for
setting the lifters really depends on the cam info. After that, I, or
someone else, can explain the steps for setting lifters and getting the
distributor in the right way.

Chris


greend@hotmail.com wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?
>
>
> Thanks
>