curious about a chevy 350
06-13-2007, 08:03 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: curious about a chevy 350
It really depends on what type of boat it is and what it was used for.
As far as being a car engine in a boat. there are a lot of those around,
but they should never be used in saltwater. Marine engines have
brass/bronze inserts cast into things like manifold cooling passages to
prevent saltwater corrosion.
If the engine sit in an enclosure or below the floor sealed with the
bilge area, then you NEED to make sure that the alternator, starter,
distributor, and air cleaner are all spark arresting, Coast Guard
approved. One spark or carburetor backfire without the proper equipment
and a bilge area full of gas fumes becomes a bomb. This is not only for
safety, but you can get fines for not having these items on your boat if
it ever gets inspected. Here on the Great Lakes, the Coast Guard does do
random inspections.
All that being said, adjusting the lifters and the rest are not too
difficult. One thing you do need to know is if the lifters are hydraulic
or solid. A lot of the older boats used solid lifters, and setting them
is much different than hydraulics. Usually a hydraulic lifter can be
detected by pushing down on the pushrod to see if the plunger inside the
lifter moves. The plunger is where the pushrod sits in the lifter. If
the plunger does compress down, and then come back up when you let go of
the pushrod, then the lifters are hydraulic. Really the best thing to do
would be to find out what camshaft the previous owner installed, and see
if he has the spec card that came with the camshaft. If the cam card
says the lash setting is zero, then it's hydraulic, and if it gives a
lash setting like 0.020 then the camshaft is mechanical and uses solid
lifters.
Please find this stuff out first and post back. The procedure for
setting the lifters really depends on the cam info. After that, I, or
someone else, can explain the steps for setting lifters and getting the
distributor in the right way.
Chris
greend@hotmail.com wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?
>
>
> Thanks
>
As far as being a car engine in a boat. there are a lot of those around,
but they should never be used in saltwater. Marine engines have
brass/bronze inserts cast into things like manifold cooling passages to
prevent saltwater corrosion.
If the engine sit in an enclosure or below the floor sealed with the
bilge area, then you NEED to make sure that the alternator, starter,
distributor, and air cleaner are all spark arresting, Coast Guard
approved. One spark or carburetor backfire without the proper equipment
and a bilge area full of gas fumes becomes a bomb. This is not only for
safety, but you can get fines for not having these items on your boat if
it ever gets inspected. Here on the Great Lakes, the Coast Guard does do
random inspections.
All that being said, adjusting the lifters and the rest are not too
difficult. One thing you do need to know is if the lifters are hydraulic
or solid. A lot of the older boats used solid lifters, and setting them
is much different than hydraulics. Usually a hydraulic lifter can be
detected by pushing down on the pushrod to see if the plunger inside the
lifter moves. The plunger is where the pushrod sits in the lifter. If
the plunger does compress down, and then come back up when you let go of
the pushrod, then the lifters are hydraulic. Really the best thing to do
would be to find out what camshaft the previous owner installed, and see
if he has the spec card that came with the camshaft. If the cam card
says the lash setting is zero, then it's hydraulic, and if it gives a
lash setting like 0.020 then the camshaft is mechanical and uses solid
lifters.
Please find this stuff out first and post back. The procedure for
setting the lifters really depends on the cam info. After that, I, or
someone else, can explain the steps for setting lifters and getting the
distributor in the right way.
Chris
greend@hotmail.com wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?
>
>
> Thanks
>
06-13-2007, 08:03 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: curious about a chevy 350
It really depends on what type of boat it is and what it was used for.
As far as being a car engine in a boat. there are a lot of those around,
but they should never be used in saltwater. Marine engines have
brass/bronze inserts cast into things like manifold cooling passages to
prevent saltwater corrosion.
If the engine sit in an enclosure or below the floor sealed with the
bilge area, then you NEED to make sure that the alternator, starter,
distributor, and air cleaner are all spark arresting, Coast Guard
approved. One spark or carburetor backfire without the proper equipment
and a bilge area full of gas fumes becomes a bomb. This is not only for
safety, but you can get fines for not having these items on your boat if
it ever gets inspected. Here on the Great Lakes, the Coast Guard does do
random inspections.
All that being said, adjusting the lifters and the rest are not too
difficult. One thing you do need to know is if the lifters are hydraulic
or solid. A lot of the older boats used solid lifters, and setting them
is much different than hydraulics. Usually a hydraulic lifter can be
detected by pushing down on the pushrod to see if the plunger inside the
lifter moves. The plunger is where the pushrod sits in the lifter. If
the plunger does compress down, and then come back up when you let go of
the pushrod, then the lifters are hydraulic. Really the best thing to do
would be to find out what camshaft the previous owner installed, and see
if he has the spec card that came with the camshaft. If the cam card
says the lash setting is zero, then it's hydraulic, and if it gives a
lash setting like 0.020 then the camshaft is mechanical and uses solid
lifters.
Please find this stuff out first and post back. The procedure for
setting the lifters really depends on the cam info. After that, I, or
someone else, can explain the steps for setting lifters and getting the
distributor in the right way.
Chris
greend@hotmail.com wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?
>
>
> Thanks
>
As far as being a car engine in a boat. there are a lot of those around,
but they should never be used in saltwater. Marine engines have
brass/bronze inserts cast into things like manifold cooling passages to
prevent saltwater corrosion.
If the engine sit in an enclosure or below the floor sealed with the
bilge area, then you NEED to make sure that the alternator, starter,
distributor, and air cleaner are all spark arresting, Coast Guard
approved. One spark or carburetor backfire without the proper equipment
and a bilge area full of gas fumes becomes a bomb. This is not only for
safety, but you can get fines for not having these items on your boat if
it ever gets inspected. Here on the Great Lakes, the Coast Guard does do
random inspections.
All that being said, adjusting the lifters and the rest are not too
difficult. One thing you do need to know is if the lifters are hydraulic
or solid. A lot of the older boats used solid lifters, and setting them
is much different than hydraulics. Usually a hydraulic lifter can be
detected by pushing down on the pushrod to see if the plunger inside the
lifter moves. The plunger is where the pushrod sits in the lifter. If
the plunger does compress down, and then come back up when you let go of
the pushrod, then the lifters are hydraulic. Really the best thing to do
would be to find out what camshaft the previous owner installed, and see
if he has the spec card that came with the camshaft. If the cam card
says the lash setting is zero, then it's hydraulic, and if it gives a
lash setting like 0.020 then the camshaft is mechanical and uses solid
lifters.
Please find this stuff out first and post back. The procedure for
setting the lifters really depends on the cam info. After that, I, or
someone else, can explain the steps for setting lifters and getting the
distributor in the right way.
Chris
greend@hotmail.com wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?
>
>
> Thanks
>
06-13-2007, 08:03 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: curious about a chevy 350
It really depends on what type of boat it is and what it was used for.
As far as being a car engine in a boat. there are a lot of those around,
but they should never be used in saltwater. Marine engines have
brass/bronze inserts cast into things like manifold cooling passages to
prevent saltwater corrosion.
If the engine sit in an enclosure or below the floor sealed with the
bilge area, then you NEED to make sure that the alternator, starter,
distributor, and air cleaner are all spark arresting, Coast Guard
approved. One spark or carburetor backfire without the proper equipment
and a bilge area full of gas fumes becomes a bomb. This is not only for
safety, but you can get fines for not having these items on your boat if
it ever gets inspected. Here on the Great Lakes, the Coast Guard does do
random inspections.
All that being said, adjusting the lifters and the rest are not too
difficult. One thing you do need to know is if the lifters are hydraulic
or solid. A lot of the older boats used solid lifters, and setting them
is much different than hydraulics. Usually a hydraulic lifter can be
detected by pushing down on the pushrod to see if the plunger inside the
lifter moves. The plunger is where the pushrod sits in the lifter. If
the plunger does compress down, and then come back up when you let go of
the pushrod, then the lifters are hydraulic. Really the best thing to do
would be to find out what camshaft the previous owner installed, and see
if he has the spec card that came with the camshaft. If the cam card
says the lash setting is zero, then it's hydraulic, and if it gives a
lash setting like 0.020 then the camshaft is mechanical and uses solid
lifters.
Please find this stuff out first and post back. The procedure for
setting the lifters really depends on the cam info. After that, I, or
someone else, can explain the steps for setting lifters and getting the
distributor in the right way.
Chris
greend@hotmail.com wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?
>
>
> Thanks
>
As far as being a car engine in a boat. there are a lot of those around,
but they should never be used in saltwater. Marine engines have
brass/bronze inserts cast into things like manifold cooling passages to
prevent saltwater corrosion.
If the engine sit in an enclosure or below the floor sealed with the
bilge area, then you NEED to make sure that the alternator, starter,
distributor, and air cleaner are all spark arresting, Coast Guard
approved. One spark or carburetor backfire without the proper equipment
and a bilge area full of gas fumes becomes a bomb. This is not only for
safety, but you can get fines for not having these items on your boat if
it ever gets inspected. Here on the Great Lakes, the Coast Guard does do
random inspections.
All that being said, adjusting the lifters and the rest are not too
difficult. One thing you do need to know is if the lifters are hydraulic
or solid. A lot of the older boats used solid lifters, and setting them
is much different than hydraulics. Usually a hydraulic lifter can be
detected by pushing down on the pushrod to see if the plunger inside the
lifter moves. The plunger is where the pushrod sits in the lifter. If
the plunger does compress down, and then come back up when you let go of
the pushrod, then the lifters are hydraulic. Really the best thing to do
would be to find out what camshaft the previous owner installed, and see
if he has the spec card that came with the camshaft. If the cam card
says the lash setting is zero, then it's hydraulic, and if it gives a
lash setting like 0.020 then the camshaft is mechanical and uses solid
lifters.
Please find this stuff out first and post back. The procedure for
setting the lifters really depends on the cam info. After that, I, or
someone else, can explain the steps for setting lifters and getting the
distributor in the right way.
Chris
greend@hotmail.com wrote:
> i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
> and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
> cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
> back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
> done to get it back running is the following:
>
> Things needing to be completed on engine:
> Adjust valves (roller rockers)
> Install distributor and set timing
> plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
> plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
> how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
> car engine in a boat?
>
>
> Thanks
>
06-13-2007, 08:53 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: curious about a chevy 350
On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 16:00:29 -0700, greend@hotmail.com wrote:
>i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
>and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
>cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
>back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
>done to get it back running is the following:
>
>Things needing to be completed on engine:
>Adjust valves (roller rockers)
>Install distributor and set timing
>plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
>plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
>how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
>car engine in a boat?
>
>
>Thanks
The only thing "marine" about most car engines used in boats is the
cooling system/water pump and the fuel system because you do not want
a leak in the engine bay on a boat. There is nothing exotic about
motor otherwise unless it is a engine that will run in salt water and
then some changes are made in cooling system and pump. (some use
sealed systems with heat exchanger in salt water) Generally you do not
want a aluminum headed engine because of galvanic reaction with even
fresh water. Alluminum heads on a aluminum block is not as bad as
aluminum heads on a cast iron block here.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
>i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
>and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
>cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
>back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
>done to get it back running is the following:
>
>Things needing to be completed on engine:
>Adjust valves (roller rockers)
>Install distributor and set timing
>plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
>plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
>how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
>car engine in a boat?
>
>
>Thanks
The only thing "marine" about most car engines used in boats is the
cooling system/water pump and the fuel system because you do not want
a leak in the engine bay on a boat. There is nothing exotic about
motor otherwise unless it is a engine that will run in salt water and
then some changes are made in cooling system and pump. (some use
sealed systems with heat exchanger in salt water) Generally you do not
want a aluminum headed engine because of galvanic reaction with even
fresh water. Alluminum heads on a aluminum block is not as bad as
aluminum heads on a cast iron block here.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
06-13-2007, 08:53 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: curious about a chevy 350
On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 16:00:29 -0700, greend@hotmail.com wrote:
>i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
>and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
>cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
>back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
>done to get it back running is the following:
>
>Things needing to be completed on engine:
>Adjust valves (roller rockers)
>Install distributor and set timing
>plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
>plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
>how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
>car engine in a boat?
>
>
>Thanks
The only thing "marine" about most car engines used in boats is the
cooling system/water pump and the fuel system because you do not want
a leak in the engine bay on a boat. There is nothing exotic about
motor otherwise unless it is a engine that will run in salt water and
then some changes are made in cooling system and pump. (some use
sealed systems with heat exchanger in salt water) Generally you do not
want a aluminum headed engine because of galvanic reaction with even
fresh water. Alluminum heads on a aluminum block is not as bad as
aluminum heads on a cast iron block here.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
>i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
>and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
>cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
>back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
>done to get it back running is the following:
>
>Things needing to be completed on engine:
>Adjust valves (roller rockers)
>Install distributor and set timing
>plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
>plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
>how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
>car engine in a boat?
>
>
>Thanks
The only thing "marine" about most car engines used in boats is the
cooling system/water pump and the fuel system because you do not want
a leak in the engine bay on a boat. There is nothing exotic about
motor otherwise unless it is a engine that will run in salt water and
then some changes are made in cooling system and pump. (some use
sealed systems with heat exchanger in salt water) Generally you do not
want a aluminum headed engine because of galvanic reaction with even
fresh water. Alluminum heads on a aluminum block is not as bad as
aluminum heads on a cast iron block here.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
06-13-2007, 08:53 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: curious about a chevy 350
On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 16:00:29 -0700, greend@hotmail.com wrote:
>i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
>and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
>cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
>back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
>done to get it back running is the following:
>
>Things needing to be completed on engine:
>Adjust valves (roller rockers)
>Install distributor and set timing
>plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
>plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
>how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
>car engine in a boat?
>
>
>Thanks
The only thing "marine" about most car engines used in boats is the
cooling system/water pump and the fuel system because you do not want
a leak in the engine bay on a boat. There is nothing exotic about
motor otherwise unless it is a engine that will run in salt water and
then some changes are made in cooling system and pump. (some use
sealed systems with heat exchanger in salt water) Generally you do not
want a aluminum headed engine because of galvanic reaction with even
fresh water. Alluminum heads on a aluminum block is not as bad as
aluminum heads on a cast iron block here.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
>i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
>and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
>cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
>back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
>done to get it back running is the following:
>
>Things needing to be completed on engine:
>Adjust valves (roller rockers)
>Install distributor and set timing
>plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
>plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
>how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
>car engine in a boat?
>
>
>Thanks
The only thing "marine" about most car engines used in boats is the
cooling system/water pump and the fuel system because you do not want
a leak in the engine bay on a boat. There is nothing exotic about
motor otherwise unless it is a engine that will run in salt water and
then some changes are made in cooling system and pump. (some use
sealed systems with heat exchanger in salt water) Generally you do not
want a aluminum headed engine because of galvanic reaction with even
fresh water. Alluminum heads on a aluminum block is not as bad as
aluminum heads on a cast iron block here.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
06-13-2007, 08:53 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: curious about a chevy 350
On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 16:00:29 -0700, greend@hotmail.com wrote:
>i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
>and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
>cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
>back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
>done to get it back running is the following:
>
>Things needing to be completed on engine:
>Adjust valves (roller rockers)
>Install distributor and set timing
>plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
>plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
>how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
>car engine in a boat?
>
>
>Thanks
The only thing "marine" about most car engines used in boats is the
cooling system/water pump and the fuel system because you do not want
a leak in the engine bay on a boat. There is nothing exotic about
motor otherwise unless it is a engine that will run in salt water and
then some changes are made in cooling system and pump. (some use
sealed systems with heat exchanger in salt water) Generally you do not
want a aluminum headed engine because of galvanic reaction with even
fresh water. Alluminum heads on a aluminum block is not as bad as
aluminum heads on a cast iron block here.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
>i boat this boat from a guy and he changed out standard marine engine
>and put a standard chevy 350 engine in it. he reversed some water
>cooling lines and got some rubber pieces in the engine...he opened it
>back up and got all the gunk out and he says all that is needed to be
>done to get it back running is the following:
>
>Things needing to be completed on engine:
>Adjust valves (roller rockers)
>Install distributor and set timing
>plugs and wires (have high performance wires but need to buy new
>plugs) thermostat valve covers alternator and belt
>
>how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
>car engine in a boat?
>
>
>Thanks
The only thing "marine" about most car engines used in boats is the
cooling system/water pump and the fuel system because you do not want
a leak in the engine bay on a boat. There is nothing exotic about
motor otherwise unless it is a engine that will run in salt water and
then some changes are made in cooling system and pump. (some use
sealed systems with heat exchanger in salt water) Generally you do not
want a aluminum headed engine because of galvanic reaction with even
fresh water. Alluminum heads on a aluminum block is not as bad as
aluminum heads on a cast iron block here.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
06-16-2007, 10:45 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: curious about a chevy 350
<greend@hotmail.com> wrote
how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
car engine in a boat?
Thanks
We used to own a 25' Larson cabin cruiser, it had a Chebby 350 as the
engine.
It worked like a champ.
I believe it was the factory engine, and the 350 IS bone simple. Used to
have them in all of my trucks.
Kate
O|||||||O
06-16-2007, 10:45 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: curious about a chevy 350
<greend@hotmail.com> wrote
how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
car engine in a boat?
Thanks
We used to own a 25' Larson cabin cruiser, it had a Chebby 350 as the
engine.
It worked like a champ.
I believe it was the factory engine, and the 350 IS bone simple. Used to
have them in all of my trucks.
Kate
O|||||||O
06-16-2007, 10:45 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: curious about a chevy 350
<greend@hotmail.com> wrote
how difficult is stuff like this or am i gettin took because he put a
car engine in a boat?
Thanks
We used to own a 25' Larson cabin cruiser, it had a Chebby 350 as the
engine.
It worked like a champ.
I believe it was the factory engine, and the 350 IS bone simple. Used to
have them in all of my trucks.
Kate
O|||||||O