GTI wrote:

<snip>

Long shot, but what about the alarm system?

Disconnect the battery, put the key in the ON
position (all lights off), then connect the battery
back up again, get in and try to start it.

--
DougW

 

GTI wrote:

<snip>

Long shot, but what about the alarm system?

Disconnect the battery, put the key in the ON
position (all lights off), then connect the battery
back up again, get in and try to start it.

--
DougW

 

GTI wrote:

<snip>

Long shot, but what about the alarm system?

Disconnect the battery, put the key in the ON
position (all lights off), then connect the battery
back up again, get in and try to start it.

--
DougW

 

On the 4.0, the rotor should be pointing about 5:00 when the #1 piston
is at TDC with 12:00 being closest to the engine block. Firing order is
clockwise.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

GTI wrote:
>
> Jeff DeWitt wrote:
> > Of course you checked the obvious things, it's getting fuel to the
> > injectors (I assume it has FI), and it's actually getting spark to the
> > plugs.
> >
> > Is it possible the distributor is 180 deg off? How about the wires, if
> > you have them in the wrong order it won't start. I replaced a
> > distributor once and got all the wires one cylinder off and the engine
> > wouldn't fire a lick.
> >
> > Is this a new version of the original engine or something different? If
> > it's something different is it possible the original engine had the
> > firing order reversed of the new engine (they ran across that on one of
> > those car fix up shows where they replaced a Chebby engine with a
> > Pontiac (I think) engine and it wouldn't start for that reason).
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
>
> The engine was supposed to be a remanufactered original jeep engine. I
> had thought that the engine was 180 out and rewired it to find out if
> this was teh case and it still didnt start. I have the #1 cylinder at
> TDC and the rotor is pointing at the knotch on the distributor. I have
> the firing order memorized as if it were my SSN. 1-5-3-6-2-4. I have
> tried moving the wires one forward and one back. Still nothing.

 

On the 4.0, the rotor should be pointing about 5:00 when the #1 piston
is at TDC with 12:00 being closest to the engine block. Firing order is
clockwise.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

GTI wrote:
>
> Jeff DeWitt wrote:
> > Of course you checked the obvious things, it's getting fuel to the
> > injectors (I assume it has FI), and it's actually getting spark to the
> > plugs.
> >
> > Is it possible the distributor is 180 deg off? How about the wires, if
> > you have them in the wrong order it won't start. I replaced a
> > distributor once and got all the wires one cylinder off and the engine
> > wouldn't fire a lick.
> >
> > Is this a new version of the original engine or something different? If
> > it's something different is it possible the original engine had the
> > firing order reversed of the new engine (they ran across that on one of
> > those car fix up shows where they replaced a Chebby engine with a
> > Pontiac (I think) engine and it wouldn't start for that reason).
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
>
> The engine was supposed to be a remanufactered original jeep engine. I
> had thought that the engine was 180 out and rewired it to find out if
> this was teh case and it still didnt start. I have the #1 cylinder at
> TDC and the rotor is pointing at the knotch on the distributor. I have
> the firing order memorized as if it were my SSN. 1-5-3-6-2-4. I have
> tried moving the wires one forward and one back. Still nothing.

 

On the 4.0, the rotor should be pointing about 5:00 when the #1 piston
is at TDC with 12:00 being closest to the engine block. Firing order is
clockwise.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

GTI wrote:
>
> Jeff DeWitt wrote:
> > Of course you checked the obvious things, it's getting fuel to the
> > injectors (I assume it has FI), and it's actually getting spark to the
> > plugs.
> >
> > Is it possible the distributor is 180 deg off? How about the wires, if
> > you have them in the wrong order it won't start. I replaced a
> > distributor once and got all the wires one cylinder off and the engine
> > wouldn't fire a lick.
> >
> > Is this a new version of the original engine or something different? If
> > it's something different is it possible the original engine had the
> > firing order reversed of the new engine (they ran across that on one of
> > those car fix up shows where they replaced a Chebby engine with a
> > Pontiac (I think) engine and it wouldn't start for that reason).
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
>
> The engine was supposed to be a remanufactered original jeep engine. I
> had thought that the engine was 180 out and rewired it to find out if
> this was teh case and it still didnt start. I have the #1 cylinder at
> TDC and the rotor is pointing at the knotch on the distributor. I have
> the firing order memorized as if it were my SSN. 1-5-3-6-2-4. I have
> tried moving the wires one forward and one back. Still nothing.

 

On the 4.0, the rotor should be pointing about 5:00 when the #1 piston
is at TDC with 12:00 being closest to the engine block. Firing order is
clockwise.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

GTI wrote:
>
> Jeff DeWitt wrote:
> > Of course you checked the obvious things, it's getting fuel to the
> > injectors (I assume it has FI), and it's actually getting spark to the
> > plugs.
> >
> > Is it possible the distributor is 180 deg off? How about the wires, if
> > you have them in the wrong order it won't start. I replaced a
> > distributor once and got all the wires one cylinder off and the engine
> > wouldn't fire a lick.
> >
> > Is this a new version of the original engine or something different? If
> > it's something different is it possible the original engine had the
> > firing order reversed of the new engine (they ran across that on one of
> > those car fix up shows where they replaced a Chebby engine with a
> > Pontiac (I think) engine and it wouldn't start for that reason).
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
>
> The engine was supposed to be a remanufactered original jeep engine. I
> had thought that the engine was 180 out and rewired it to find out if
> this was teh case and it still didnt start. I have the #1 cylinder at
> TDC and the rotor is pointing at the knotch on the distributor. I have
> the firing order memorized as if it were my SSN. 1-5-3-6-2-4. I have
> tried moving the wires one forward and one back. Still nothing.

 

Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:

>
>
> GTI wrote:
>
>> DougW wrote:
>>
>>> GTI wrote:
>>>
>>>> I just purchased a crate engine from my local parts store and
>>>> installed it into my 95 Grand Cherokee. Now the it wont start. I have
>>>> timed the engine more times than I care to count. Made sure it was at
>>>> TDC by removing the valve cover and making sure the #1 cylinder had
>>>> both valve up to indicate true TDC. So the timing is correct. Is
>>>> there anything I am not thinking of. Oh I checked to see if the crank
>>>> sensor was bad but its reading proper voltage across it and the cam
>>>> position sensor is also getting the right voltage inputs and outputs.
>>>
>>>
>>> I'd start with the simple stuff. Sensor by sensor, hose by hose
>>> check of the engine.
>>>
>>> Is the coil getting voltage?
>>> Any fuses you took out that didn't get back.
>>> Same thing with relays.
>>>
>>> Fuel pressure good?
>>> e
>>> MAP sensor hose attached and coolant sensor wires?
>>> Oil pressure and level senders hooked up.
>>>
>>> O2 sensor(s) hooked up
>>>
>>> double check the plug wires
>>>
>>> And as one other person pointed out in a similar thread
>>> a long long time ago... is the rotor in the distributor. :)
>>>
>>> --
>>> DougW
>>
>>
>>
>> I have checked every sensor and went to the dealership to check the
>> coil to make sure it was firing properly. The coil fires within specs
>> on the primary and secondary outputs. Went through and checked and
>> triple checked every connection and vacuum line. And (LOL) I did make
>> sure the rotor was in the distributor. Made sure we were had the wires
>> on the cap right. I can recite the firing order in my sleep mow. If I
>> had hair to pull out I would. I think the problem is a simple one its
>> just driving me nuts!!!
>>
>
> Are you sure it's getting fuel? Do you hear the fuel pump when the
> ignition is switched on? Is there fuel at the injectors? Are the
> injectors plugged in? (I know but often it's the stupid stuff that
> trips us up!)
>
> Are the spark plugs actually getting spark? I know of a guy who went
> through this and it turned out the contact in the center of the
> distributor cap had fallen out.

You can check fuel by carefully dropping a few drops into the throttle
body and then crank. You don't care if it starts, just if it fires.

Getting any signal from the CPS?

Engine grounded?

 

Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:

>
>
> GTI wrote:
>
>> DougW wrote:
>>
>>> GTI wrote:
>>>
>>>> I just purchased a crate engine from my local parts store and
>>>> installed it into my 95 Grand Cherokee. Now the it wont start. I have
>>>> timed the engine more times than I care to count. Made sure it was at
>>>> TDC by removing the valve cover and making sure the #1 cylinder had
>>>> both valve up to indicate true TDC. So the timing is correct. Is
>>>> there anything I am not thinking of. Oh I checked to see if the crank
>>>> sensor was bad but its reading proper voltage across it and the cam
>>>> position sensor is also getting the right voltage inputs and outputs.
>>>
>>>
>>> I'd start with the simple stuff. Sensor by sensor, hose by hose
>>> check of the engine.
>>>
>>> Is the coil getting voltage?
>>> Any fuses you took out that didn't get back.
>>> Same thing with relays.
>>>
>>> Fuel pressure good?
>>> e
>>> MAP sensor hose attached and coolant sensor wires?
>>> Oil pressure and level senders hooked up.
>>>
>>> O2 sensor(s) hooked up
>>>
>>> double check the plug wires
>>>
>>> And as one other person pointed out in a similar thread
>>> a long long time ago... is the rotor in the distributor. :)
>>>
>>> --
>>> DougW
>>
>>
>>
>> I have checked every sensor and went to the dealership to check the
>> coil to make sure it was firing properly. The coil fires within specs
>> on the primary and secondary outputs. Went through and checked and
>> triple checked every connection and vacuum line. And (LOL) I did make
>> sure the rotor was in the distributor. Made sure we were had the wires
>> on the cap right. I can recite the firing order in my sleep mow. If I
>> had hair to pull out I would. I think the problem is a simple one its
>> just driving me nuts!!!
>>
>
> Are you sure it's getting fuel? Do you hear the fuel pump when the
> ignition is switched on? Is there fuel at the injectors? Are the
> injectors plugged in? (I know but often it's the stupid stuff that
> trips us up!)
>
> Are the spark plugs actually getting spark? I know of a guy who went
> through this and it turned out the contact in the center of the
> distributor cap had fallen out.

You can check fuel by carefully dropping a few drops into the throttle
body and then crank. You don't care if it starts, just if it fires.

Getting any signal from the CPS?

Engine grounded?

 

Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:

>
>
> GTI wrote:
>
>> DougW wrote:
>>
>>> GTI wrote:
>>>
>>>> I just purchased a crate engine from my local parts store and
>>>> installed it into my 95 Grand Cherokee. Now the it wont start. I have
>>>> timed the engine more times than I care to count. Made sure it was at
>>>> TDC by removing the valve cover and making sure the #1 cylinder had
>>>> both valve up to indicate true TDC. So the timing is correct. Is
>>>> there anything I am not thinking of. Oh I checked to see if the crank
>>>> sensor was bad but its reading proper voltage across it and the cam
>>>> position sensor is also getting the right voltage inputs and outputs.
>>>
>>>
>>> I'd start with the simple stuff. Sensor by sensor, hose by hose
>>> check of the engine.
>>>
>>> Is the coil getting voltage?
>>> Any fuses you took out that didn't get back.
>>> Same thing with relays.
>>>
>>> Fuel pressure good?
>>> e
>>> MAP sensor hose attached and coolant sensor wires?
>>> Oil pressure and level senders hooked up.
>>>
>>> O2 sensor(s) hooked up
>>>
>>> double check the plug wires
>>>
>>> And as one other person pointed out in a similar thread
>>> a long long time ago... is the rotor in the distributor. :)
>>>
>>> --
>>> DougW
>>
>>
>>
>> I have checked every sensor and went to the dealership to check the
>> coil to make sure it was firing properly. The coil fires within specs
>> on the primary and secondary outputs. Went through and checked and
>> triple checked every connection and vacuum line. And (LOL) I did make
>> sure the rotor was in the distributor. Made sure we were had the wires
>> on the cap right. I can recite the firing order in my sleep mow. If I
>> had hair to pull out I would. I think the problem is a simple one its
>> just driving me nuts!!!
>>
>
> Are you sure it's getting fuel? Do you hear the fuel pump when the
> ignition is switched on? Is there fuel at the injectors? Are the
> injectors plugged in? (I know but often it's the stupid stuff that
> trips us up!)
>
> Are the spark plugs actually getting spark? I know of a guy who went
> through this and it turned out the contact in the center of the
> distributor cap had fallen out.

You can check fuel by carefully dropping a few drops into the throttle
body and then crank. You don't care if it starts, just if it fires.

Getting any signal from the CPS?

Engine grounded?