The gasket is the cause of most leaks, they usually spit around the
bolts or just pop out all together, after they have been torqued to over
finger tight. I use Permatex blue silicone on denatured alcohol cleaned
surfaces.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Old Crow wrote:
>
> On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 05:29:36 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> If the engine is oily enough that you can't readily determine where
> the leak is, and since the rocker cover gasket is so easy to do, I'd
> start at the top and work down.
> The gasket isn't that expensive and it never hurts to renew it, even
> if it's not the source of the leak.
> --
> Old Crow
> '82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
> '95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
> ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
> TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51

 

The gasket is the cause of most leaks, they usually spit around the
bolts or just pop out all together, after they have been torqued to over
finger tight. I use Permatex blue silicone on denatured alcohol cleaned
surfaces.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Old Crow wrote:
>
> On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 05:29:36 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> If the engine is oily enough that you can't readily determine where
> the leak is, and since the rocker cover gasket is so easy to do, I'd
> start at the top and work down.
> The gasket isn't that expensive and it never hurts to renew it, even
> if it's not the source of the leak.
> --
> Old Crow
> '82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
> '95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
> ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
> TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51

 

The gasket is the cause of most leaks, they usually spit around the
bolts or just pop out all together, after they have been torqued to over
finger tight. I use Permatex blue silicone on denatured alcohol cleaned
surfaces.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Old Crow wrote:
>
> On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 05:29:36 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> If the engine is oily enough that you can't readily determine where
> the leak is, and since the rocker cover gasket is so easy to do, I'd
> start at the top and work down.
> The gasket isn't that expensive and it never hurts to renew it, even
> if it's not the source of the leak.
> --
> Old Crow
> '82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
> '95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
> ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
> TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51

 

On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 04:08:55 -0800, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:

> The gasket is the cause of most leaks, they usually spit around the
>bolts or just pop out all together, after they have been torqued to over
>finger tight. I use Permatex blue silicone on denatured alcohol cleaned
>surfaces.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O

I prefer the Ultra- black to the blue as it looks more professional
and I think seals better. Also I use brake cleaner spray, because I
have unlimited access to it. Color me cheap<g>.
--
Old Crow
'82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
'95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51

 

On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 04:08:55 -0800, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:

> The gasket is the cause of most leaks, they usually spit around the
>bolts or just pop out all together, after they have been torqued to over
>finger tight. I use Permatex blue silicone on denatured alcohol cleaned
>surfaces.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O

I prefer the Ultra- black to the blue as it looks more professional
and I think seals better. Also I use brake cleaner spray, because I
have unlimited access to it. Color me cheap<g>.
--
Old Crow
'82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
'95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51

 

On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 04:08:55 -0800, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:

> The gasket is the cause of most leaks, they usually spit around the
>bolts or just pop out all together, after they have been torqued to over
>finger tight. I use Permatex blue silicone on denatured alcohol cleaned
>surfaces.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O

I prefer the Ultra- black to the blue as it looks more professional
and I think seals better. Also I use brake cleaner spray, because I
have unlimited access to it. Color me cheap<g>.
--
Old Crow
'82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
'95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51

 

jbcrow@flex.com (jbcrow) wrote in message news:<ebd4f35d.0402190152.1cfaa180@posting.google. com>...
> I'm looking to replace the rear crankshaft seal on a 90 XJ 4.0. Anyone
> ever done one of these? It doesn't look too complicated (this is what
> I've said with almost every repair I've ever undertaken!!!). Anything
> in particular to watch for?
>
> TIA
> JB
I want to first thank everyone for all the help. I took your advice
and checked out and replaced the VCG. Unfortunately there was no
change. On to the rear crank seal. Only problem now is getting the oil
pan out. It was a bear getting the pan separated but with some work it
came apart. Took off 2 nuts for the motor mount, but the engine
doesn't want to move without taking the body with it. Am I missing
something? Do I need to remove the mounts on both sides? Will be back
at it tommorow.

Thanks again,
JB

 

jbcrow@flex.com (jbcrow) wrote in message news:<ebd4f35d.0402190152.1cfaa180@posting.google. com>...
> I'm looking to replace the rear crankshaft seal on a 90 XJ 4.0. Anyone
> ever done one of these? It doesn't look too complicated (this is what
> I've said with almost every repair I've ever undertaken!!!). Anything
> in particular to watch for?
>
> TIA
> JB
I want to first thank everyone for all the help. I took your advice
and checked out and replaced the VCG. Unfortunately there was no
change. On to the rear crank seal. Only problem now is getting the oil
pan out. It was a bear getting the pan separated but with some work it
came apart. Took off 2 nuts for the motor mount, but the engine
doesn't want to move without taking the body with it. Am I missing
something? Do I need to remove the mounts on both sides? Will be back
at it tommorow.

Thanks again,
JB

 

jbcrow@flex.com (jbcrow) wrote in message news:<ebd4f35d.0402190152.1cfaa180@posting.google. com>...
> I'm looking to replace the rear crankshaft seal on a 90 XJ 4.0. Anyone
> ever done one of these? It doesn't look too complicated (this is what
> I've said with almost every repair I've ever undertaken!!!). Anything
> in particular to watch for?
>
> TIA
> JB
I want to first thank everyone for all the help. I took your advice
and checked out and replaced the VCG. Unfortunately there was no
change. On to the rear crank seal. Only problem now is getting the oil
pan out. It was a bear getting the pan separated but with some work it
came apart. Took off 2 nuts for the motor mount, but the engine
doesn't want to move without taking the body with it. Am I missing
something? Do I need to remove the mounts on both sides? Will be back
at it tommorow.

Thanks again,
JB

 

It says "In order to remove the oil pan, the passenger side motor
mount must be removed.": http://www.neow.org/rms1.html Is that the side
you removed?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/


jbcrow wrote:
>
> I want to first thank everyone for all the help. I took your advice
> and checked out and replaced the VCG. Unfortunately there was no
> change. On to the rear crank seal. Only problem now is getting the oil
> pan out. It was a bear getting the pan separated but with some work it
> came apart. Took off 2 nuts for the motor mount, but the engine
> doesn't want to move without taking the body with it. Am I missing
> something? Do I need to remove the mounts on both sides? Will be back
> at it tommorow.
>
> Thanks again,
> JB