Clutch Replacement on 1953 M38A1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Clutch Replacement on 1953 M38A1
Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
have to come out as a unit?
I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
the bell housing.
I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
Thanks for you insight
have to come out as a unit?
I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
the bell housing.
I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
Thanks for you insight
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Replacement on 1953 M38A1
You can't get at the clutch from underneath, the engine & tranny will
have to come apart.
Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
& getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
heavy) & lift then out.
It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
more needed to get them back togeather.
Enjoy,
H.
On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
>have to come out as a unit?
>
>I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
>(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
>the bell housing.
>I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
>explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
>in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
>the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
>
>Thanks for you insight
>
have to come apart.
Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
& getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
heavy) & lift then out.
It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
more needed to get them back togeather.
Enjoy,
H.
On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
>have to come out as a unit?
>
>I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
>(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
>the bell housing.
>I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
>explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
>in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
>the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
>
>Thanks for you insight
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Replacement on 1953 M38A1
You can't get at the clutch from underneath, the engine & tranny will
have to come apart.
Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
& getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
heavy) & lift then out.
It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
more needed to get them back togeather.
Enjoy,
H.
On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
>have to come out as a unit?
>
>I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
>(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
>the bell housing.
>I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
>explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
>in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
>the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
>
>Thanks for you insight
>
have to come apart.
Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
& getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
heavy) & lift then out.
It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
more needed to get them back togeather.
Enjoy,
H.
On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
>have to come out as a unit?
>
>I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
>(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
>the bell housing.
>I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
>explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
>in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
>the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
>
>Thanks for you insight
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Replacement on 1953 M38A1
You can't get at the clutch from underneath, the engine & tranny will
have to come apart.
Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
& getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
heavy) & lift then out.
It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
more needed to get them back togeather.
Enjoy,
H.
On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
>have to come out as a unit?
>
>I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
>(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
>the bell housing.
>I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
>explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
>in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
>the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
>
>Thanks for you insight
>
have to come apart.
Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
& getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
heavy) & lift then out.
It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
more needed to get them back togeather.
Enjoy,
H.
On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
>have to come out as a unit?
>
>I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
>(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
>the bell housing.
>I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
>explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
>in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
>the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
>
>Thanks for you insight
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Replacement on 1953 M38A1
You can't get at the clutch from underneath, the engine & tranny will
have to come apart.
Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
& getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
heavy) & lift then out.
It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
more needed to get them back togeather.
Enjoy,
H.
On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
>have to come out as a unit?
>
>I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
>(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
>the bell housing.
>I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
>explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
>in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
>the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
>
>Thanks for you insight
>
have to come apart.
Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
& getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
heavy) & lift then out.
It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
more needed to get them back togeather.
Enjoy,
H.
On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
>have to come out as a unit?
>
>I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
>(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
>the bell housing.
>I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
>explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
>in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
>the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
>
>Thanks for you insight
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Replacement on 1953 M38A1
I find it easier to lay the Jeep on it's and carry the transmission
out: http://www.----------.com/jeepWorkonSide.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Howard Eisenhauer wrote:
>
> You can't get at the clutch from underneath, the engine & tranny will
> have to come apart.
>
> Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
> it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
> the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
> & getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
> is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
> some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
> heavy) & lift then out.
>
> It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
> take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
> this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
> get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
> for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
> balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
> more needed to get them back togeather.
>
> Enjoy,
>
> H.
>
> On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>
> >Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
> >have to come out as a unit?
> >
> >I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
> >(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
> >the bell housing.
> >I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
> >explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
> >in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
> >the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
> >
> >Thanks for you insight
> >
out: http://www.----------.com/jeepWorkonSide.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Howard Eisenhauer wrote:
>
> You can't get at the clutch from underneath, the engine & tranny will
> have to come apart.
>
> Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
> it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
> the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
> & getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
> is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
> some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
> heavy) & lift then out.
>
> It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
> take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
> this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
> get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
> for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
> balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
> more needed to get them back togeather.
>
> Enjoy,
>
> H.
>
> On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>
> >Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
> >have to come out as a unit?
> >
> >I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
> >(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
> >the bell housing.
> >I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
> >explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
> >in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
> >the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
> >
> >Thanks for you insight
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Replacement on 1953 M38A1
I find it easier to lay the Jeep on it's and carry the transmission
out: http://www.----------.com/jeepWorkonSide.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Howard Eisenhauer wrote:
>
> You can't get at the clutch from underneath, the engine & tranny will
> have to come apart.
>
> Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
> it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
> the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
> & getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
> is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
> some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
> heavy) & lift then out.
>
> It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
> take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
> this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
> get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
> for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
> balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
> more needed to get them back togeather.
>
> Enjoy,
>
> H.
>
> On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>
> >Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
> >have to come out as a unit?
> >
> >I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
> >(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
> >the bell housing.
> >I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
> >explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
> >in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
> >the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
> >
> >Thanks for you insight
> >
out: http://www.----------.com/jeepWorkonSide.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Howard Eisenhauer wrote:
>
> You can't get at the clutch from underneath, the engine & tranny will
> have to come apart.
>
> Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
> it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
> the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
> & getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
> is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
> some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
> heavy) & lift then out.
>
> It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
> take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
> this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
> get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
> for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
> balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
> more needed to get them back togeather.
>
> Enjoy,
>
> H.
>
> On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>
> >Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
> >have to come out as a unit?
> >
> >I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
> >(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
> >the bell housing.
> >I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
> >explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
> >in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
> >the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
> >
> >Thanks for you insight
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Replacement on 1953 M38A1
I find it easier to lay the Jeep on it's and carry the transmission
out: http://www.----------.com/jeepWorkonSide.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Howard Eisenhauer wrote:
>
> You can't get at the clutch from underneath, the engine & tranny will
> have to come apart.
>
> Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
> it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
> the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
> & getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
> is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
> some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
> heavy) & lift then out.
>
> It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
> take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
> this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
> get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
> for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
> balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
> more needed to get them back togeather.
>
> Enjoy,
>
> H.
>
> On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>
> >Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
> >have to come out as a unit?
> >
> >I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
> >(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
> >the bell housing.
> >I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
> >explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
> >in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
> >the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
> >
> >Thanks for you insight
> >
out: http://www.----------.com/jeepWorkonSide.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Howard Eisenhauer wrote:
>
> You can't get at the clutch from underneath, the engine & tranny will
> have to come apart.
>
> Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
> it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
> the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
> & getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
> is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
> some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
> heavy) & lift then out.
>
> It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
> take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
> this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
> get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
> for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
> balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
> more needed to get them back togeather.
>
> Enjoy,
>
> H.
>
> On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>
> >Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
> >have to come out as a unit?
> >
> >I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
> >(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
> >the bell housing.
> >I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
> >explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
> >in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
> >the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
> >
> >Thanks for you insight
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Replacement on 1953 M38A1
I find it easier to lay the Jeep on it's and carry the transmission
out: http://www.----------.com/jeepWorkonSide.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Howard Eisenhauer wrote:
>
> You can't get at the clutch from underneath, the engine & tranny will
> have to come apart.
>
> Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
> it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
> the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
> & getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
> is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
> some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
> heavy) & lift then out.
>
> It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
> take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
> this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
> get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
> for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
> balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
> more needed to get them back togeather.
>
> Enjoy,
>
> H.
>
> On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>
> >Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
> >have to come out as a unit?
> >
> >I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
> >(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
> >the bell housing.
> >I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
> >explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
> >in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
> >the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
> >
> >Thanks for you insight
> >
out: http://www.----------.com/jeepWorkonSide.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Howard Eisenhauer wrote:
>
> You can't get at the clutch from underneath, the engine & tranny will
> have to come apart.
>
> Everybody says to pull the tranny/xfer case out but personally I found
> it easier the pull the engine out & leave the t/x in place. Pulling
> the t/x is probably easier IF you have a lift & a tranny jack, I don't
> & getting those !*&$#s back into place with the vehicle on the ground
> is *not* fun. if you *have* to get the tranny or xfer case off for
> some reason it's almost easier to pull the tub off (four guys, not
> heavy) & lift then out.
>
> It only takes about half an hour (including lottsa beer breaks) to
> take the fenders & grill/rad off. You will spend a little more time
> this way unbolting the bellhousing from the engine but it's easier to
> get the engine out by it's self, Should take a a little over an hour
> for the whole process. The t/t will pretty much just sit there
> balanced on the mount. A little wiggling will get them apart, a little
> more needed to get them back togeather.
>
> Enjoy,
>
> H.
>
> On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:41:29 GMT, "Rod Hanson" <rodh@sonic.net> wrote:
>
> >Can I replace the clutch from from underneath, or does the whole powerplant
> >have to come out as a unit?
> >
> >I have a copy of the military manual which states that the entire powerplant
> >(engine, transmission, and transfer) must be removed to access the inards of
> >the bell housing.
> >I also have read the Haynes manual for similar models (all civilian) that
> >explains how to remove transmission and transfer, while leaving the engine
> >in place. This copy says nothing about removing a seperate bell housing from
> >the engine while the engine is on its mounts.
> >
> >Thanks for you insight
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Replacement on 1953 M38A1
I appreciate your response to my question. I guess I should have written in
my post that there is a bull bar welded to the front bumper. It is in the
way of convenient powerplant extraction. I have the means to remove the
tranny/transfer from underneath but I am concerned there may not be
clearance for wrenches and digits.
my post that there is a bull bar welded to the front bumper. It is in the
way of convenient powerplant extraction. I have the means to remove the
tranny/transfer from underneath but I am concerned there may not be
clearance for wrenches and digits.
