CJ hazard lights
#61
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Re: CJ hazard lights
Thanks folks, for the helpful info.
>
> Hurm.
>
> OK. This is how it works: B+ power from the battery passes through a
> flasher module (those little cans that click), through a switch, on to
> each signal light filament and then to ground and back to B-.
>
> The catch is that you can't just tie all the wires to each signal light
> together at one single throw single pole, because power will then flow to
> all the lights, even though the 4-way flasher is off and you want just the
> left turn, right turn or brake lights to work. Normally, the signal light
> switch handles this by switching these functions seperately.
>
> Were it my problem, I'd find a 4 pole relay (there may be solid-state ways
> of doing this, but that is beyond my ken). Use a switch and flasher to
> control the relay (you may have to use a flasher designed for LEDs if the
> relay won't pull enough power for a thermal flasher), let the relay handle
> getting power to each signal light without tieing them all together. The
> relay will act like 4 individual switches, sending power to each light
> seperately. When the relay is open it disappears, electrically speaking,
> and normal signal and brake function is restored. You might have to
> cultivate a friend in a boneyard to find what sort of cars have the relay
> you need.
>
> B+ ----------------------------------+
> |
> B+ -----[~]--------./.---------=== +./.----------[LF]
> flasher switch === +./.----------[RF]
> === +./.----------[RR]
> B- ----=== +./.----------[LR]
> [ Relay ]
>
>
> You can tap into the signal light wires where they come out of the
> steering column. There will at least be one cold wire for each signal
> light, one hot from the signal light flasher, one from the brake light
> switch (hot only when brakes are on), one hot for the horn. The colors
> _might_ be:
>
> Pink From Emergency flasher
> Red/White From Signal flasher
> Black/White Horn relay
> Lt. Green RR turn/brake
> Lt. Green/Black LR turn/brake
> Green RF turn
> Pink From Brake Switch
> Green/Black LF turn
>
>
> Poking around, it looks like 4-way flashers are an issue for early
> fullsize jeeps. Here's one thread:
> 2. The Forward Forum: Re: 4 way flashers
> <URL:http://members4.boardhost.com/jeepfc/msg/8698.html>
>
> You might try there and see if they have a more elegant solution than
> mine. I recall that my `62 Econoline has 4-way flashers as a dealer
> installed option.
>
> The thread above include a link to a solution for early 60s Ramblers:
> <URL:http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/amcalberta/TechTips/TechTip4.html>
>
>
> And a last thought: You _could_ gang 2 double pole, single throw toggles
> (each pole is really a seperate switch) together and wire them up like the
> relay diagram above, with the switches between the battery and the flasher
> module, and between the flasher and the lights. It would be ugly, but it
> would work. Make sure the switches can handle the load -- don't buy those
> cute little sub-mini switches.
>
>
> Warning and disclaimer: Automotive batteries are high amperage devices
> that will happily destroy wiring, start fires and generally cause grave
> damage to vehicles, property and persons. Given a shorting conductor of
> sufficient size, batteries can explode. Understand what you are doing,
> the hazards and dangers before beginning. Any work the reader undertakes
> is entirely at his or her own risk.
>
> Hurm.
>
> OK. This is how it works: B+ power from the battery passes through a
> flasher module (those little cans that click), through a switch, on to
> each signal light filament and then to ground and back to B-.
>
> The catch is that you can't just tie all the wires to each signal light
> together at one single throw single pole, because power will then flow to
> all the lights, even though the 4-way flasher is off and you want just the
> left turn, right turn or brake lights to work. Normally, the signal light
> switch handles this by switching these functions seperately.
>
> Were it my problem, I'd find a 4 pole relay (there may be solid-state ways
> of doing this, but that is beyond my ken). Use a switch and flasher to
> control the relay (you may have to use a flasher designed for LEDs if the
> relay won't pull enough power for a thermal flasher), let the relay handle
> getting power to each signal light without tieing them all together. The
> relay will act like 4 individual switches, sending power to each light
> seperately. When the relay is open it disappears, electrically speaking,
> and normal signal and brake function is restored. You might have to
> cultivate a friend in a boneyard to find what sort of cars have the relay
> you need.
>
> B+ ----------------------------------+
> |
> B+ -----[~]--------./.---------=== +./.----------[LF]
> flasher switch === +./.----------[RF]
> === +./.----------[RR]
> B- ----=== +./.----------[LR]
> [ Relay ]
>
>
> You can tap into the signal light wires where they come out of the
> steering column. There will at least be one cold wire for each signal
> light, one hot from the signal light flasher, one from the brake light
> switch (hot only when brakes are on), one hot for the horn. The colors
> _might_ be:
>
> Pink From Emergency flasher
> Red/White From Signal flasher
> Black/White Horn relay
> Lt. Green RR turn/brake
> Lt. Green/Black LR turn/brake
> Green RF turn
> Pink From Brake Switch
> Green/Black LF turn
>
>
> Poking around, it looks like 4-way flashers are an issue for early
> fullsize jeeps. Here's one thread:
> 2. The Forward Forum: Re: 4 way flashers
> <URL:http://members4.boardhost.com/jeepfc/msg/8698.html>
>
> You might try there and see if they have a more elegant solution than
> mine. I recall that my `62 Econoline has 4-way flashers as a dealer
> installed option.
>
> The thread above include a link to a solution for early 60s Ramblers:
> <URL:http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/amcalberta/TechTips/TechTip4.html>
>
>
> And a last thought: You _could_ gang 2 double pole, single throw toggles
> (each pole is really a seperate switch) together and wire them up like the
> relay diagram above, with the switches between the battery and the flasher
> module, and between the flasher and the lights. It would be ugly, but it
> would work. Make sure the switches can handle the load -- don't buy those
> cute little sub-mini switches.
>
>
> Warning and disclaimer: Automotive batteries are high amperage devices
> that will happily destroy wiring, start fires and generally cause grave
> damage to vehicles, property and persons. Given a shorting conductor of
> sufficient size, batteries can explode. Understand what you are doing,
> the hazards and dangers before beginning. Any work the reader undertakes
> is entirely at his or her own risk.
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11-10-2004 09:26 AM
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