CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
06-06-2004, 01:59 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
I will. It's weird because if memory serves, it's a two piece unit...
I'll have to snap a pic...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
>> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Does your gas gauge work?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>>>say this...).
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>>>
>>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>>>
>>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>>>
>>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>>>
>>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>>>
>>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>>>
>>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>>>
>>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Rob wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>
>>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
I'll have to snap a pic...
Mike Romain wrote:
> Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
>> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Does your gas gauge work?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
>>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
>>>>say this...).
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
>>>>>
>>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
>>>>>
>>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
>>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
>>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
>>>>>
>>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
>>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
>>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
>>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
>>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
>>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
>>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
>>>>>rusty bolts out?)
>>>>>
>>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
>>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
>>>>>grill for the front lights.
>>>>>
>>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
>>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
>>>>>
>>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
>>>>>
>>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Rob wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
>>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
>>>>>>at all. Egads!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
>>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
>>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
>>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
>>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
>>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
>>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>
>>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
>>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
>>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
>>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
>>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
>>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
>>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
>>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
>>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
>>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
>>>>>>>>switch!!!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
>>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
>>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
>>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
>>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Rob
>>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
06-06-2004, 04:09 PM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
Yup, you only need the top piece.
The bottom piece is a pressure switch that turns on the choke and
manifold heater.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I will. It's weird because if memory serves, it's a two piece unit...
> I'll have to snap a pic...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> >> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Does your gas gauge work?
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>>>say this...).
> >>>>
> >>>>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Mike
> >>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Rob wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
The bottom piece is a pressure switch that turns on the choke and
manifold heater.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I will. It's weird because if memory serves, it's a two piece unit...
> I'll have to snap a pic...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> >> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Does your gas gauge work?
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>>>say this...).
> >>>>
> >>>>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Mike
> >>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Rob wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
06-06-2004, 04:09 PM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
Yup, you only need the top piece.
The bottom piece is a pressure switch that turns on the choke and
manifold heater.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I will. It's weird because if memory serves, it's a two piece unit...
> I'll have to snap a pic...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> >> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Does your gas gauge work?
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>>>say this...).
> >>>>
> >>>>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Mike
> >>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Rob wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
The bottom piece is a pressure switch that turns on the choke and
manifold heater.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I will. It's weird because if memory serves, it's a two piece unit...
> I'll have to snap a pic...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> >> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Does your gas gauge work?
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>>>say this...).
> >>>>
> >>>>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Mike
> >>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Rob wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
06-06-2004, 04:09 PM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
Yup, you only need the top piece.
The bottom piece is a pressure switch that turns on the choke and
manifold heater.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I will. It's weird because if memory serves, it's a two piece unit...
> I'll have to snap a pic...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> >> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Does your gas gauge work?
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>>>say this...).
> >>>>
> >>>>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Mike
> >>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Rob wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
The bottom piece is a pressure switch that turns on the choke and
manifold heater.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I will. It's weird because if memory serves, it's a two piece unit...
> I'll have to snap a pic...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> >> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Does your gas gauge work?
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>>>say this...).
> >>>>
> >>>>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Mike
> >>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Rob wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
06-06-2004, 04:09 PM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan
Yup, you only need the top piece.
The bottom piece is a pressure switch that turns on the choke and
manifold heater.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I will. It's weird because if memory serves, it's a two piece unit...
> I'll have to snap a pic...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> >> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Does your gas gauge work?
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>>>say this...).
> >>>>
> >>>>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Mike
> >>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Rob wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
The bottom piece is a pressure switch that turns on the choke and
manifold heater.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I will. It's weird because if memory serves, it's a two piece unit...
> I'll have to snap a pic...
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>yup. the only thing that doesn't work so well is the oil pressure gauge
> >> and the tach sticks 75% of the time until I tap it...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Does your gas gauge work?
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>My "mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount" is just
> >>>>dangling but I don't have any electrical issues (of course, now that I
> >>>>say this...).
> >>>>
> >>>>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>And likely an easy couple of fixes too.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>You are describing ground stealing.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from
> >>>>>the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that
> >>>>>goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove
> >>>>>it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are
> >>>>>the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to
> >>>>>make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one
> >>>>>side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire
> >>>>>directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground
> >>>>>when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the
> >>>>>rusty bolts out?)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates
> >>>>>on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front
> >>>>>grill for the front lights.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a
> >>>>>few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Mike
> >>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Rob wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights
> >>>>>>seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires
> >>>>>>at all. Egads!
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal
> >>>>>>stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to
> >>>>>>low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low
> >>>>>>beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is
> >>>>>>on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of
> >>>>>>course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of
> >>>>>>this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 09:12:46 -0400, aGraham
> >>>>>><aarongraham@mac.com.removeme> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>oh you are just starting.... My dash looks like a dance club sometimes
> >>>>>>>with all of the flashing lights and needles bouncing, and the radio
> >>>>>>>speakers switching back and forth.... Fix one things and the wire you
> >>>>>>>accidentally bumped is now loose...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>In article <b1lqb015o1umhjmqsdvrvomphjmq8idj9t@4ax.com>,
> >>>>>>>Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3
> >>>>>>>>weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the
> >>>>>>>>brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat,
> >>>>>>>>using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing
> >>>>>>>>some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the
> >>>>>>>>switch!!!
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector,
> >>>>>>>>and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled
> >>>>>>>>wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn
> >>>>>>>>more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts,
> >>>>>>>>but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Rob
> >>>>>>>>'83 CJ-7
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