CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
03-18-2007, 12:32 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud@remail-it.net>
wrote:
>not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it
>was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air
>intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused
>my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on
>with the dash off.
If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
>not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it
>was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air
>intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused
>my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on
>with the dash off.
If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
03-18-2007, 12:32 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud@remail-it.net>
wrote:
>not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it
>was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air
>intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused
>my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on
>with the dash off.
If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
>not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it
>was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air
>intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused
>my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on
>with the dash off.
If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
03-18-2007, 12:37 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
I just clicked on something.... You have the backfire issue in the
other group right?
The orange wire from the choke sometimes hits the exhaust manifold near
the back which will cause that. The Ford coil connectors are pretty
crappy and either could have been moved or dinged when you were in there
trying to bolt the heater back on. Even a plug wire.
I also have posted a meter walk through for you to test your connections
so you don't have to tear everything open on your alternator harness.
Mike
Anthony T wrote:
> Mike,
> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier
> if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the
> air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct
> that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see
> what's going on with the dash off.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45fd5a50$0$5699$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Just an FYI.
>>
>> If you have the dash off, the cussing time will be cut in half at
>> least 'And' the heater motor will fit straight through the nice new
>> round hole... let alone how easy it is to hook up all ducts...
>>
>> I think it is worth the 'extra' time to pull the dash.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Anthony T wrote:
>>> James,
>>> I'm not sure if your still looking for advice on this mod. I just
>>> recently moded my blower motor. It's a fairly cheap upgrade but a
>>> pain in the *** to complete.
>>>
>>> I bought the upgraded motor from Schucks, part # 35587 (that's the
>>> correct GM upgrade) I paid $30 for the motor, new.
>>>
>>> You do not need to remove the dash or seats to get the heater housing
>>> out. I did it at 45 years old. However, you need be able to contort
>>> your body a little.
>>>
>>> Getting it out is the easy part. 4 nuts and it's out.
>>>
>>> Once out, unscrew the numerous screws on the back of the heater
>>> housing and you get to all of the innards of the heater hosing.
>>>
>>> Absolutely replace the heater core (Schucks part # 399210 for $40.).
>>>
>>> Replace your old blower motor and heater core.
>>>
>>> Now the hard part. Lining up the flapper ducts and the heater
>>> housing and buttoning it up. That took a little finesse and time.
>>>
>>> Now the really hard part...expand the hole to fit the new blower motor.
>>>
>>> Read this and you will have complete success making the hole larger
>>> and it will look like a professional install;
>>> http://www.jeeptech.com/body/heatsup.html
>>>
>>> I had to buy a 3 1/4" hole saw at Home depot for $20
>>>
>>> Do not make the same mistake I made: I measured perfectly, and I
>>> made a perfect hole. However, I couldn't get the friggin heater
>>> assembly to fit back in. So, I absolutely hacked my beautiful hole
>>> into a jagged octagon using a dremmel tool (it looks like ----) but
>>> the assembly more easily fit back in.
>>>
>>> As I look back on this I realized, I just needed to finesse the
>>> heater assembly to line up with the holes. Have patience (unlike me)
>>> and give it a good push and it will fit in nicely
>>>
>>> Total Cost for the project, including the hole saw: $90
>>> Total time...about 6 hours as I couldn't get it to fit back in. Have
>>> two or three friends help you line up the holes.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>>> news:6vSdnXaL4ZM8At7YnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There were a number of posts and website reviews on upgrading the
>>>> heater fan
>>>> blower motor for the older vintage cj-5 Jeeps. My Jeep is a 1980
>>>> CJ-5.
>>>>
>>>> I have read all the posts that I can find on this, and I would like to
>>>> summarize some questions that still remain for me as I prepare to
>>>> assist my
>>>> mechanic for getting ready to do this for me.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 1. Motor model. I note that the web article on Off-Road.com
>>>> says to
>>>> ask for a motor for a 1973 Chevy Blazer / 350, with a/c. Other
>>>> notes say to ask for the "normal" fan motor, not the "premimum"
>>>> one. It
>>>> is said that the shaft on the "premium" motor is too long. I
>>>> wonder how
>>>> you can be confident that you have the right motor if they only list
>>>> one
>>>> (not a "normal" and a "premium" one) ?? Also, I see that Mike Romain
>>>> indicates that the "right" motor to ask for is for a 1972 Chevy
>>>> Blazer
>>>> (not a 1973 as indicated on the website article. ). I wonder if
>>>> anyone
>>>> bought a "correct" size motor from NAPA, and could just give me
>>>> the NAPA
>>>> part number ?
>>>>
>>>> Any other comments on making sure I get the right size motor for my
>>>> 1980
>>>> CJ-5 Jeep?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 2. Gasket? Will I need to fashion some kind of gasket when the new
>>>> motor
>>>> is put on ? One poster said he had a terrible time getting a new
>>>> gasket
>>>> made. Can I buy a gasket of some sort, or will the old gasket
>>>> work if
>>>> care is taken ?? Any comments?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 3. Heater core. I plan to have this job done from the firewall
>>>> side, and
>>>> not take the dash out. Can the heater core be easily removed from
>>>> the
>>>> firewall side ? Will it be obvious to my mechanic if the heater core
>>>> needs replacement, or boiling out ? If this is such a hard job,
>>>> wouldn't
>>>> it just be quicker/easier to buy a new heater core ? What is the
>>>> ballpark
>>>> cost of the heater core? Remember, this is a 1980 Jeep, but the
>>>> core is
>>>> not now leaking, but I don't know how good the flow is.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 4. On my 1980 CJ-5, would it be easier in the long run to remove
>>>> the
>>>> battery tray ? I have the standard battery and tray.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 5. Proper saw for enlarging hole. Which is best, a jigsaw,
>>>> scroll saw,
>>>> or a reciprocal saw with a thin blade ?? I know that a hole-saw
>>>> will cut
>>>> a cleaner, more precise hole, but isn't it true that this can only
>>>> be done
>>>> from the dash side ? (if so, I don't really visualize why???)
>>>>
>>>> -------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Again, I am not a mechanic, but I work closely with my mechanic and he
>>>> doesn't mind if I help him plan, and get the right tools and parts in
>>>> advance.
>>>>
>>>> I know this is an old subject, but I really do want to do this
>>>> upgrade, as I
>>>> have always felt that this Jeep was very weak in the heater fan
>>>> output.
>>>> Doubling the output would help a LOT in the dead of winter.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for helping me on these questions !!!!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --james--
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
other group right?
The orange wire from the choke sometimes hits the exhaust manifold near
the back which will cause that. The Ford coil connectors are pretty
crappy and either could have been moved or dinged when you were in there
trying to bolt the heater back on. Even a plug wire.
I also have posted a meter walk through for you to test your connections
so you don't have to tear everything open on your alternator harness.
Mike
Anthony T wrote:
> Mike,
> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier
> if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the
> air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct
> that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see
> what's going on with the dash off.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45fd5a50$0$5699$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Just an FYI.
>>
>> If you have the dash off, the cussing time will be cut in half at
>> least 'And' the heater motor will fit straight through the nice new
>> round hole... let alone how easy it is to hook up all ducts...
>>
>> I think it is worth the 'extra' time to pull the dash.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Anthony T wrote:
>>> James,
>>> I'm not sure if your still looking for advice on this mod. I just
>>> recently moded my blower motor. It's a fairly cheap upgrade but a
>>> pain in the *** to complete.
>>>
>>> I bought the upgraded motor from Schucks, part # 35587 (that's the
>>> correct GM upgrade) I paid $30 for the motor, new.
>>>
>>> You do not need to remove the dash or seats to get the heater housing
>>> out. I did it at 45 years old. However, you need be able to contort
>>> your body a little.
>>>
>>> Getting it out is the easy part. 4 nuts and it's out.
>>>
>>> Once out, unscrew the numerous screws on the back of the heater
>>> housing and you get to all of the innards of the heater hosing.
>>>
>>> Absolutely replace the heater core (Schucks part # 399210 for $40.).
>>>
>>> Replace your old blower motor and heater core.
>>>
>>> Now the hard part. Lining up the flapper ducts and the heater
>>> housing and buttoning it up. That took a little finesse and time.
>>>
>>> Now the really hard part...expand the hole to fit the new blower motor.
>>>
>>> Read this and you will have complete success making the hole larger
>>> and it will look like a professional install;
>>> http://www.jeeptech.com/body/heatsup.html
>>>
>>> I had to buy a 3 1/4" hole saw at Home depot for $20
>>>
>>> Do not make the same mistake I made: I measured perfectly, and I
>>> made a perfect hole. However, I couldn't get the friggin heater
>>> assembly to fit back in. So, I absolutely hacked my beautiful hole
>>> into a jagged octagon using a dremmel tool (it looks like ----) but
>>> the assembly more easily fit back in.
>>>
>>> As I look back on this I realized, I just needed to finesse the
>>> heater assembly to line up with the holes. Have patience (unlike me)
>>> and give it a good push and it will fit in nicely
>>>
>>> Total Cost for the project, including the hole saw: $90
>>> Total time...about 6 hours as I couldn't get it to fit back in. Have
>>> two or three friends help you line up the holes.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>>> news:6vSdnXaL4ZM8At7YnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There were a number of posts and website reviews on upgrading the
>>>> heater fan
>>>> blower motor for the older vintage cj-5 Jeeps. My Jeep is a 1980
>>>> CJ-5.
>>>>
>>>> I have read all the posts that I can find on this, and I would like to
>>>> summarize some questions that still remain for me as I prepare to
>>>> assist my
>>>> mechanic for getting ready to do this for me.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 1. Motor model. I note that the web article on Off-Road.com
>>>> says to
>>>> ask for a motor for a 1973 Chevy Blazer / 350, with a/c. Other
>>>> notes say to ask for the "normal" fan motor, not the "premimum"
>>>> one. It
>>>> is said that the shaft on the "premium" motor is too long. I
>>>> wonder how
>>>> you can be confident that you have the right motor if they only list
>>>> one
>>>> (not a "normal" and a "premium" one) ?? Also, I see that Mike Romain
>>>> indicates that the "right" motor to ask for is for a 1972 Chevy
>>>> Blazer
>>>> (not a 1973 as indicated on the website article. ). I wonder if
>>>> anyone
>>>> bought a "correct" size motor from NAPA, and could just give me
>>>> the NAPA
>>>> part number ?
>>>>
>>>> Any other comments on making sure I get the right size motor for my
>>>> 1980
>>>> CJ-5 Jeep?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 2. Gasket? Will I need to fashion some kind of gasket when the new
>>>> motor
>>>> is put on ? One poster said he had a terrible time getting a new
>>>> gasket
>>>> made. Can I buy a gasket of some sort, or will the old gasket
>>>> work if
>>>> care is taken ?? Any comments?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 3. Heater core. I plan to have this job done from the firewall
>>>> side, and
>>>> not take the dash out. Can the heater core be easily removed from
>>>> the
>>>> firewall side ? Will it be obvious to my mechanic if the heater core
>>>> needs replacement, or boiling out ? If this is such a hard job,
>>>> wouldn't
>>>> it just be quicker/easier to buy a new heater core ? What is the
>>>> ballpark
>>>> cost of the heater core? Remember, this is a 1980 Jeep, but the
>>>> core is
>>>> not now leaking, but I don't know how good the flow is.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 4. On my 1980 CJ-5, would it be easier in the long run to remove
>>>> the
>>>> battery tray ? I have the standard battery and tray.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 5. Proper saw for enlarging hole. Which is best, a jigsaw,
>>>> scroll saw,
>>>> or a reciprocal saw with a thin blade ?? I know that a hole-saw
>>>> will cut
>>>> a cleaner, more precise hole, but isn't it true that this can only
>>>> be done
>>>> from the dash side ? (if so, I don't really visualize why???)
>>>>
>>>> -------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Again, I am not a mechanic, but I work closely with my mechanic and he
>>>> doesn't mind if I help him plan, and get the right tools and parts in
>>>> advance.
>>>>
>>>> I know this is an old subject, but I really do want to do this
>>>> upgrade, as I
>>>> have always felt that this Jeep was very weak in the heater fan
>>>> output.
>>>> Doubling the output would help a LOT in the dead of winter.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for helping me on these questions !!!!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --james--
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
03-18-2007, 12:37 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
I just clicked on something.... You have the backfire issue in the
other group right?
The orange wire from the choke sometimes hits the exhaust manifold near
the back which will cause that. The Ford coil connectors are pretty
crappy and either could have been moved or dinged when you were in there
trying to bolt the heater back on. Even a plug wire.
I also have posted a meter walk through for you to test your connections
so you don't have to tear everything open on your alternator harness.
Mike
Anthony T wrote:
> Mike,
> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier
> if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the
> air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct
> that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see
> what's going on with the dash off.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45fd5a50$0$5699$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Just an FYI.
>>
>> If you have the dash off, the cussing time will be cut in half at
>> least 'And' the heater motor will fit straight through the nice new
>> round hole... let alone how easy it is to hook up all ducts...
>>
>> I think it is worth the 'extra' time to pull the dash.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Anthony T wrote:
>>> James,
>>> I'm not sure if your still looking for advice on this mod. I just
>>> recently moded my blower motor. It's a fairly cheap upgrade but a
>>> pain in the *** to complete.
>>>
>>> I bought the upgraded motor from Schucks, part # 35587 (that's the
>>> correct GM upgrade) I paid $30 for the motor, new.
>>>
>>> You do not need to remove the dash or seats to get the heater housing
>>> out. I did it at 45 years old. However, you need be able to contort
>>> your body a little.
>>>
>>> Getting it out is the easy part. 4 nuts and it's out.
>>>
>>> Once out, unscrew the numerous screws on the back of the heater
>>> housing and you get to all of the innards of the heater hosing.
>>>
>>> Absolutely replace the heater core (Schucks part # 399210 for $40.).
>>>
>>> Replace your old blower motor and heater core.
>>>
>>> Now the hard part. Lining up the flapper ducts and the heater
>>> housing and buttoning it up. That took a little finesse and time.
>>>
>>> Now the really hard part...expand the hole to fit the new blower motor.
>>>
>>> Read this and you will have complete success making the hole larger
>>> and it will look like a professional install;
>>> http://www.jeeptech.com/body/heatsup.html
>>>
>>> I had to buy a 3 1/4" hole saw at Home depot for $20
>>>
>>> Do not make the same mistake I made: I measured perfectly, and I
>>> made a perfect hole. However, I couldn't get the friggin heater
>>> assembly to fit back in. So, I absolutely hacked my beautiful hole
>>> into a jagged octagon using a dremmel tool (it looks like ----) but
>>> the assembly more easily fit back in.
>>>
>>> As I look back on this I realized, I just needed to finesse the
>>> heater assembly to line up with the holes. Have patience (unlike me)
>>> and give it a good push and it will fit in nicely
>>>
>>> Total Cost for the project, including the hole saw: $90
>>> Total time...about 6 hours as I couldn't get it to fit back in. Have
>>> two or three friends help you line up the holes.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>>> news:6vSdnXaL4ZM8At7YnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There were a number of posts and website reviews on upgrading the
>>>> heater fan
>>>> blower motor for the older vintage cj-5 Jeeps. My Jeep is a 1980
>>>> CJ-5.
>>>>
>>>> I have read all the posts that I can find on this, and I would like to
>>>> summarize some questions that still remain for me as I prepare to
>>>> assist my
>>>> mechanic for getting ready to do this for me.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 1. Motor model. I note that the web article on Off-Road.com
>>>> says to
>>>> ask for a motor for a 1973 Chevy Blazer / 350, with a/c. Other
>>>> notes say to ask for the "normal" fan motor, not the "premimum"
>>>> one. It
>>>> is said that the shaft on the "premium" motor is too long. I
>>>> wonder how
>>>> you can be confident that you have the right motor if they only list
>>>> one
>>>> (not a "normal" and a "premium" one) ?? Also, I see that Mike Romain
>>>> indicates that the "right" motor to ask for is for a 1972 Chevy
>>>> Blazer
>>>> (not a 1973 as indicated on the website article. ). I wonder if
>>>> anyone
>>>> bought a "correct" size motor from NAPA, and could just give me
>>>> the NAPA
>>>> part number ?
>>>>
>>>> Any other comments on making sure I get the right size motor for my
>>>> 1980
>>>> CJ-5 Jeep?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 2. Gasket? Will I need to fashion some kind of gasket when the new
>>>> motor
>>>> is put on ? One poster said he had a terrible time getting a new
>>>> gasket
>>>> made. Can I buy a gasket of some sort, or will the old gasket
>>>> work if
>>>> care is taken ?? Any comments?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 3. Heater core. I plan to have this job done from the firewall
>>>> side, and
>>>> not take the dash out. Can the heater core be easily removed from
>>>> the
>>>> firewall side ? Will it be obvious to my mechanic if the heater core
>>>> needs replacement, or boiling out ? If this is such a hard job,
>>>> wouldn't
>>>> it just be quicker/easier to buy a new heater core ? What is the
>>>> ballpark
>>>> cost of the heater core? Remember, this is a 1980 Jeep, but the
>>>> core is
>>>> not now leaking, but I don't know how good the flow is.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 4. On my 1980 CJ-5, would it be easier in the long run to remove
>>>> the
>>>> battery tray ? I have the standard battery and tray.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 5. Proper saw for enlarging hole. Which is best, a jigsaw,
>>>> scroll saw,
>>>> or a reciprocal saw with a thin blade ?? I know that a hole-saw
>>>> will cut
>>>> a cleaner, more precise hole, but isn't it true that this can only
>>>> be done
>>>> from the dash side ? (if so, I don't really visualize why???)
>>>>
>>>> -------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Again, I am not a mechanic, but I work closely with my mechanic and he
>>>> doesn't mind if I help him plan, and get the right tools and parts in
>>>> advance.
>>>>
>>>> I know this is an old subject, but I really do want to do this
>>>> upgrade, as I
>>>> have always felt that this Jeep was very weak in the heater fan
>>>> output.
>>>> Doubling the output would help a LOT in the dead of winter.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for helping me on these questions !!!!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --james--
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
other group right?
The orange wire from the choke sometimes hits the exhaust manifold near
the back which will cause that. The Ford coil connectors are pretty
crappy and either could have been moved or dinged when you were in there
trying to bolt the heater back on. Even a plug wire.
I also have posted a meter walk through for you to test your connections
so you don't have to tear everything open on your alternator harness.
Mike
Anthony T wrote:
> Mike,
> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier
> if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the
> air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct
> that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see
> what's going on with the dash off.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45fd5a50$0$5699$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Just an FYI.
>>
>> If you have the dash off, the cussing time will be cut in half at
>> least 'And' the heater motor will fit straight through the nice new
>> round hole... let alone how easy it is to hook up all ducts...
>>
>> I think it is worth the 'extra' time to pull the dash.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Anthony T wrote:
>>> James,
>>> I'm not sure if your still looking for advice on this mod. I just
>>> recently moded my blower motor. It's a fairly cheap upgrade but a
>>> pain in the *** to complete.
>>>
>>> I bought the upgraded motor from Schucks, part # 35587 (that's the
>>> correct GM upgrade) I paid $30 for the motor, new.
>>>
>>> You do not need to remove the dash or seats to get the heater housing
>>> out. I did it at 45 years old. However, you need be able to contort
>>> your body a little.
>>>
>>> Getting it out is the easy part. 4 nuts and it's out.
>>>
>>> Once out, unscrew the numerous screws on the back of the heater
>>> housing and you get to all of the innards of the heater hosing.
>>>
>>> Absolutely replace the heater core (Schucks part # 399210 for $40.).
>>>
>>> Replace your old blower motor and heater core.
>>>
>>> Now the hard part. Lining up the flapper ducts and the heater
>>> housing and buttoning it up. That took a little finesse and time.
>>>
>>> Now the really hard part...expand the hole to fit the new blower motor.
>>>
>>> Read this and you will have complete success making the hole larger
>>> and it will look like a professional install;
>>> http://www.jeeptech.com/body/heatsup.html
>>>
>>> I had to buy a 3 1/4" hole saw at Home depot for $20
>>>
>>> Do not make the same mistake I made: I measured perfectly, and I
>>> made a perfect hole. However, I couldn't get the friggin heater
>>> assembly to fit back in. So, I absolutely hacked my beautiful hole
>>> into a jagged octagon using a dremmel tool (it looks like ----) but
>>> the assembly more easily fit back in.
>>>
>>> As I look back on this I realized, I just needed to finesse the
>>> heater assembly to line up with the holes. Have patience (unlike me)
>>> and give it a good push and it will fit in nicely
>>>
>>> Total Cost for the project, including the hole saw: $90
>>> Total time...about 6 hours as I couldn't get it to fit back in. Have
>>> two or three friends help you line up the holes.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>>> news:6vSdnXaL4ZM8At7YnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There were a number of posts and website reviews on upgrading the
>>>> heater fan
>>>> blower motor for the older vintage cj-5 Jeeps. My Jeep is a 1980
>>>> CJ-5.
>>>>
>>>> I have read all the posts that I can find on this, and I would like to
>>>> summarize some questions that still remain for me as I prepare to
>>>> assist my
>>>> mechanic for getting ready to do this for me.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 1. Motor model. I note that the web article on Off-Road.com
>>>> says to
>>>> ask for a motor for a 1973 Chevy Blazer / 350, with a/c. Other
>>>> notes say to ask for the "normal" fan motor, not the "premimum"
>>>> one. It
>>>> is said that the shaft on the "premium" motor is too long. I
>>>> wonder how
>>>> you can be confident that you have the right motor if they only list
>>>> one
>>>> (not a "normal" and a "premium" one) ?? Also, I see that Mike Romain
>>>> indicates that the "right" motor to ask for is for a 1972 Chevy
>>>> Blazer
>>>> (not a 1973 as indicated on the website article. ). I wonder if
>>>> anyone
>>>> bought a "correct" size motor from NAPA, and could just give me
>>>> the NAPA
>>>> part number ?
>>>>
>>>> Any other comments on making sure I get the right size motor for my
>>>> 1980
>>>> CJ-5 Jeep?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 2. Gasket? Will I need to fashion some kind of gasket when the new
>>>> motor
>>>> is put on ? One poster said he had a terrible time getting a new
>>>> gasket
>>>> made. Can I buy a gasket of some sort, or will the old gasket
>>>> work if
>>>> care is taken ?? Any comments?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 3. Heater core. I plan to have this job done from the firewall
>>>> side, and
>>>> not take the dash out. Can the heater core be easily removed from
>>>> the
>>>> firewall side ? Will it be obvious to my mechanic if the heater core
>>>> needs replacement, or boiling out ? If this is such a hard job,
>>>> wouldn't
>>>> it just be quicker/easier to buy a new heater core ? What is the
>>>> ballpark
>>>> cost of the heater core? Remember, this is a 1980 Jeep, but the
>>>> core is
>>>> not now leaking, but I don't know how good the flow is.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 4. On my 1980 CJ-5, would it be easier in the long run to remove
>>>> the
>>>> battery tray ? I have the standard battery and tray.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 5. Proper saw for enlarging hole. Which is best, a jigsaw,
>>>> scroll saw,
>>>> or a reciprocal saw with a thin blade ?? I know that a hole-saw
>>>> will cut
>>>> a cleaner, more precise hole, but isn't it true that this can only
>>>> be done
>>>> from the dash side ? (if so, I don't really visualize why???)
>>>>
>>>> -------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Again, I am not a mechanic, but I work closely with my mechanic and he
>>>> doesn't mind if I help him plan, and get the right tools and parts in
>>>> advance.
>>>>
>>>> I know this is an old subject, but I really do want to do this
>>>> upgrade, as I
>>>> have always felt that this Jeep was very weak in the heater fan
>>>> output.
>>>> Doubling the output would help a LOT in the dead of winter.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for helping me on these questions !!!!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --james--
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
03-18-2007, 12:37 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
I just clicked on something.... You have the backfire issue in the
other group right?
The orange wire from the choke sometimes hits the exhaust manifold near
the back which will cause that. The Ford coil connectors are pretty
crappy and either could have been moved or dinged when you were in there
trying to bolt the heater back on. Even a plug wire.
I also have posted a meter walk through for you to test your connections
so you don't have to tear everything open on your alternator harness.
Mike
Anthony T wrote:
> Mike,
> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier
> if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the
> air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct
> that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see
> what's going on with the dash off.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45fd5a50$0$5699$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Just an FYI.
>>
>> If you have the dash off, the cussing time will be cut in half at
>> least 'And' the heater motor will fit straight through the nice new
>> round hole... let alone how easy it is to hook up all ducts...
>>
>> I think it is worth the 'extra' time to pull the dash.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Anthony T wrote:
>>> James,
>>> I'm not sure if your still looking for advice on this mod. I just
>>> recently moded my blower motor. It's a fairly cheap upgrade but a
>>> pain in the *** to complete.
>>>
>>> I bought the upgraded motor from Schucks, part # 35587 (that's the
>>> correct GM upgrade) I paid $30 for the motor, new.
>>>
>>> You do not need to remove the dash or seats to get the heater housing
>>> out. I did it at 45 years old. However, you need be able to contort
>>> your body a little.
>>>
>>> Getting it out is the easy part. 4 nuts and it's out.
>>>
>>> Once out, unscrew the numerous screws on the back of the heater
>>> housing and you get to all of the innards of the heater hosing.
>>>
>>> Absolutely replace the heater core (Schucks part # 399210 for $40.).
>>>
>>> Replace your old blower motor and heater core.
>>>
>>> Now the hard part. Lining up the flapper ducts and the heater
>>> housing and buttoning it up. That took a little finesse and time.
>>>
>>> Now the really hard part...expand the hole to fit the new blower motor.
>>>
>>> Read this and you will have complete success making the hole larger
>>> and it will look like a professional install;
>>> http://www.jeeptech.com/body/heatsup.html
>>>
>>> I had to buy a 3 1/4" hole saw at Home depot for $20
>>>
>>> Do not make the same mistake I made: I measured perfectly, and I
>>> made a perfect hole. However, I couldn't get the friggin heater
>>> assembly to fit back in. So, I absolutely hacked my beautiful hole
>>> into a jagged octagon using a dremmel tool (it looks like ----) but
>>> the assembly more easily fit back in.
>>>
>>> As I look back on this I realized, I just needed to finesse the
>>> heater assembly to line up with the holes. Have patience (unlike me)
>>> and give it a good push and it will fit in nicely
>>>
>>> Total Cost for the project, including the hole saw: $90
>>> Total time...about 6 hours as I couldn't get it to fit back in. Have
>>> two or three friends help you line up the holes.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>>> news:6vSdnXaL4ZM8At7YnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There were a number of posts and website reviews on upgrading the
>>>> heater fan
>>>> blower motor for the older vintage cj-5 Jeeps. My Jeep is a 1980
>>>> CJ-5.
>>>>
>>>> I have read all the posts that I can find on this, and I would like to
>>>> summarize some questions that still remain for me as I prepare to
>>>> assist my
>>>> mechanic for getting ready to do this for me.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 1. Motor model. I note that the web article on Off-Road.com
>>>> says to
>>>> ask for a motor for a 1973 Chevy Blazer / 350, with a/c. Other
>>>> notes say to ask for the "normal" fan motor, not the "premimum"
>>>> one. It
>>>> is said that the shaft on the "premium" motor is too long. I
>>>> wonder how
>>>> you can be confident that you have the right motor if they only list
>>>> one
>>>> (not a "normal" and a "premium" one) ?? Also, I see that Mike Romain
>>>> indicates that the "right" motor to ask for is for a 1972 Chevy
>>>> Blazer
>>>> (not a 1973 as indicated on the website article. ). I wonder if
>>>> anyone
>>>> bought a "correct" size motor from NAPA, and could just give me
>>>> the NAPA
>>>> part number ?
>>>>
>>>> Any other comments on making sure I get the right size motor for my
>>>> 1980
>>>> CJ-5 Jeep?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 2. Gasket? Will I need to fashion some kind of gasket when the new
>>>> motor
>>>> is put on ? One poster said he had a terrible time getting a new
>>>> gasket
>>>> made. Can I buy a gasket of some sort, or will the old gasket
>>>> work if
>>>> care is taken ?? Any comments?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 3. Heater core. I plan to have this job done from the firewall
>>>> side, and
>>>> not take the dash out. Can the heater core be easily removed from
>>>> the
>>>> firewall side ? Will it be obvious to my mechanic if the heater core
>>>> needs replacement, or boiling out ? If this is such a hard job,
>>>> wouldn't
>>>> it just be quicker/easier to buy a new heater core ? What is the
>>>> ballpark
>>>> cost of the heater core? Remember, this is a 1980 Jeep, but the
>>>> core is
>>>> not now leaking, but I don't know how good the flow is.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 4. On my 1980 CJ-5, would it be easier in the long run to remove
>>>> the
>>>> battery tray ? I have the standard battery and tray.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 5. Proper saw for enlarging hole. Which is best, a jigsaw,
>>>> scroll saw,
>>>> or a reciprocal saw with a thin blade ?? I know that a hole-saw
>>>> will cut
>>>> a cleaner, more precise hole, but isn't it true that this can only
>>>> be done
>>>> from the dash side ? (if so, I don't really visualize why???)
>>>>
>>>> -------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Again, I am not a mechanic, but I work closely with my mechanic and he
>>>> doesn't mind if I help him plan, and get the right tools and parts in
>>>> advance.
>>>>
>>>> I know this is an old subject, but I really do want to do this
>>>> upgrade, as I
>>>> have always felt that this Jeep was very weak in the heater fan
>>>> output.
>>>> Doubling the output would help a LOT in the dead of winter.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for helping me on these questions !!!!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --james--
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
other group right?
The orange wire from the choke sometimes hits the exhaust manifold near
the back which will cause that. The Ford coil connectors are pretty
crappy and either could have been moved or dinged when you were in there
trying to bolt the heater back on. Even a plug wire.
I also have posted a meter walk through for you to test your connections
so you don't have to tear everything open on your alternator harness.
Mike
Anthony T wrote:
> Mike,
> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier
> if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the
> air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct
> that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see
> what's going on with the dash off.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45fd5a50$0$5699$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Just an FYI.
>>
>> If you have the dash off, the cussing time will be cut in half at
>> least 'And' the heater motor will fit straight through the nice new
>> round hole... let alone how easy it is to hook up all ducts...
>>
>> I think it is worth the 'extra' time to pull the dash.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Anthony T wrote:
>>> James,
>>> I'm not sure if your still looking for advice on this mod. I just
>>> recently moded my blower motor. It's a fairly cheap upgrade but a
>>> pain in the *** to complete.
>>>
>>> I bought the upgraded motor from Schucks, part # 35587 (that's the
>>> correct GM upgrade) I paid $30 for the motor, new.
>>>
>>> You do not need to remove the dash or seats to get the heater housing
>>> out. I did it at 45 years old. However, you need be able to contort
>>> your body a little.
>>>
>>> Getting it out is the easy part. 4 nuts and it's out.
>>>
>>> Once out, unscrew the numerous screws on the back of the heater
>>> housing and you get to all of the innards of the heater hosing.
>>>
>>> Absolutely replace the heater core (Schucks part # 399210 for $40.).
>>>
>>> Replace your old blower motor and heater core.
>>>
>>> Now the hard part. Lining up the flapper ducts and the heater
>>> housing and buttoning it up. That took a little finesse and time.
>>>
>>> Now the really hard part...expand the hole to fit the new blower motor.
>>>
>>> Read this and you will have complete success making the hole larger
>>> and it will look like a professional install;
>>> http://www.jeeptech.com/body/heatsup.html
>>>
>>> I had to buy a 3 1/4" hole saw at Home depot for $20
>>>
>>> Do not make the same mistake I made: I measured perfectly, and I
>>> made a perfect hole. However, I couldn't get the friggin heater
>>> assembly to fit back in. So, I absolutely hacked my beautiful hole
>>> into a jagged octagon using a dremmel tool (it looks like ----) but
>>> the assembly more easily fit back in.
>>>
>>> As I look back on this I realized, I just needed to finesse the
>>> heater assembly to line up with the holes. Have patience (unlike me)
>>> and give it a good push and it will fit in nicely
>>>
>>> Total Cost for the project, including the hole saw: $90
>>> Total time...about 6 hours as I couldn't get it to fit back in. Have
>>> two or three friends help you line up the holes.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>>> news:6vSdnXaL4ZM8At7YnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There were a number of posts and website reviews on upgrading the
>>>> heater fan
>>>> blower motor for the older vintage cj-5 Jeeps. My Jeep is a 1980
>>>> CJ-5.
>>>>
>>>> I have read all the posts that I can find on this, and I would like to
>>>> summarize some questions that still remain for me as I prepare to
>>>> assist my
>>>> mechanic for getting ready to do this for me.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 1. Motor model. I note that the web article on Off-Road.com
>>>> says to
>>>> ask for a motor for a 1973 Chevy Blazer / 350, with a/c. Other
>>>> notes say to ask for the "normal" fan motor, not the "premimum"
>>>> one. It
>>>> is said that the shaft on the "premium" motor is too long. I
>>>> wonder how
>>>> you can be confident that you have the right motor if they only list
>>>> one
>>>> (not a "normal" and a "premium" one) ?? Also, I see that Mike Romain
>>>> indicates that the "right" motor to ask for is for a 1972 Chevy
>>>> Blazer
>>>> (not a 1973 as indicated on the website article. ). I wonder if
>>>> anyone
>>>> bought a "correct" size motor from NAPA, and could just give me
>>>> the NAPA
>>>> part number ?
>>>>
>>>> Any other comments on making sure I get the right size motor for my
>>>> 1980
>>>> CJ-5 Jeep?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 2. Gasket? Will I need to fashion some kind of gasket when the new
>>>> motor
>>>> is put on ? One poster said he had a terrible time getting a new
>>>> gasket
>>>> made. Can I buy a gasket of some sort, or will the old gasket
>>>> work if
>>>> care is taken ?? Any comments?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 3. Heater core. I plan to have this job done from the firewall
>>>> side, and
>>>> not take the dash out. Can the heater core be easily removed from
>>>> the
>>>> firewall side ? Will it be obvious to my mechanic if the heater core
>>>> needs replacement, or boiling out ? If this is such a hard job,
>>>> wouldn't
>>>> it just be quicker/easier to buy a new heater core ? What is the
>>>> ballpark
>>>> cost of the heater core? Remember, this is a 1980 Jeep, but the
>>>> core is
>>>> not now leaking, but I don't know how good the flow is.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 4. On my 1980 CJ-5, would it be easier in the long run to remove
>>>> the
>>>> battery tray ? I have the standard battery and tray.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 5. Proper saw for enlarging hole. Which is best, a jigsaw,
>>>> scroll saw,
>>>> or a reciprocal saw with a thin blade ?? I know that a hole-saw
>>>> will cut
>>>> a cleaner, more precise hole, but isn't it true that this can only
>>>> be done
>>>> from the dash side ? (if so, I don't really visualize why???)
>>>>
>>>> -------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Again, I am not a mechanic, but I work closely with my mechanic and he
>>>> doesn't mind if I help him plan, and get the right tools and parts in
>>>> advance.
>>>>
>>>> I know this is an old subject, but I really do want to do this
>>>> upgrade, as I
>>>> have always felt that this Jeep was very weak in the heater fan
>>>> output.
>>>> Doubling the output would help a LOT in the dead of winter.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for helping me on these questions !!!!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --james--
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
03-18-2007, 12:48 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
SnoMan wrote:
> On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud@remail-it.net>
> wrote:
>
>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it
>> was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air
>> intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused
>> my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on
>> with the dash off.
>
>
> If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
> resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
> time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
blower cage also.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud@remail-it.net>
> wrote:
>
>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it
>> was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air
>> intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused
>> my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on
>> with the dash off.
>
>
> If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
> resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
> time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
blower cage also.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
03-18-2007, 12:48 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
SnoMan wrote:
> On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud@remail-it.net>
> wrote:
>
>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it
>> was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air
>> intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused
>> my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on
>> with the dash off.
>
>
> If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
> resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
> time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
blower cage also.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud@remail-it.net>
> wrote:
>
>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it
>> was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air
>> intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused
>> my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on
>> with the dash off.
>
>
> If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
> resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
> time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
blower cage also.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
03-18-2007, 12:48 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
SnoMan wrote:
> On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud@remail-it.net>
> wrote:
>
>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it
>> was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air
>> intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused
>> my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on
>> with the dash off.
>
>
> If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
> resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
> time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
blower cage also.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud@remail-it.net>
> wrote:
>
>> not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it
>> was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air
>> intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused
>> my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on
>> with the dash off.
>
>
> If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
> resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
> time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
blower cage also.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
03-18-2007, 01:50 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 12:48:30 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
>resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
>blower cage also.
Thats cool, I just thought I would mention it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
>The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
>resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
>blower cage also.
Thats cool, I just thought I would mention it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
03-18-2007, 01:50 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 12:48:30 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
>resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
>blower cage also.
Thats cool, I just thought I would mention it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
>The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
>resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
>blower cage also.
Thats cool, I just thought I would mention it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com