CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions. Now Dead 350 'from' a backfire...Update
The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have
the rad full to the top all the time.
This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
the coolant sucks back into it.
I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
ground.
The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
tank and still not worry about dry cores.
One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
coming out the rad cap.
Mike
Anthony T wrote:
> Mike,
> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize,
> or find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond
> 1/3 (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years.
> thoughts.
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Thanks for the update.
>>
>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>> leaking into the engine.
>>
>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses
>> to help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will
>> using an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Anthony T wrote:
>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth
>>> of diagnosis):
>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if
>>> the Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>
>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>
the rad full to the top all the time.
This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
the coolant sucks back into it.
I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
ground.
The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
tank and still not worry about dry cores.
One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
coming out the rad cap.
Mike
Anthony T wrote:
> Mike,
> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize,
> or find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond
> 1/3 (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years.
> thoughts.
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Thanks for the update.
>>
>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>> leaking into the engine.
>>
>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses
>> to help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will
>> using an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Anthony T wrote:
>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth
>>> of diagnosis):
>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if
>>> the Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>
>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions. Now Dead 350 'from' a backfire...Update
The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have
the rad full to the top all the time.
This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
the coolant sucks back into it.
I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
ground.
The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
tank and still not worry about dry cores.
One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
coming out the rad cap.
Mike
Anthony T wrote:
> Mike,
> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize,
> or find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond
> 1/3 (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years.
> thoughts.
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Thanks for the update.
>>
>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>> leaking into the engine.
>>
>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses
>> to help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will
>> using an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Anthony T wrote:
>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth
>>> of diagnosis):
>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if
>>> the Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>
>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>
the rad full to the top all the time.
This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
the coolant sucks back into it.
I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
ground.
The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
tank and still not worry about dry cores.
One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
coming out the rad cap.
Mike
Anthony T wrote:
> Mike,
> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize,
> or find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond
> 1/3 (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years.
> thoughts.
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Thanks for the update.
>>
>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>> leaking into the engine.
>>
>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses
>> to help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will
>> using an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Anthony T wrote:
>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth
>>> of diagnosis):
>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if
>>> the Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>
>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions. Now Dead 350 'from' a backfire...Update
The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have
the rad full to the top all the time.
This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
the coolant sucks back into it.
I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
ground.
The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
tank and still not worry about dry cores.
One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
coming out the rad cap.
Mike
Anthony T wrote:
> Mike,
> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize,
> or find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond
> 1/3 (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years.
> thoughts.
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Thanks for the update.
>>
>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>> leaking into the engine.
>>
>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses
>> to help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will
>> using an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Anthony T wrote:
>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth
>>> of diagnosis):
>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if
>>> the Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>
>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>
the rad full to the top all the time.
This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
the coolant sucks back into it.
I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
ground.
The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
tank and still not worry about dry cores.
One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
coming out the rad cap.
Mike
Anthony T wrote:
> Mike,
> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize,
> or find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond
> 1/3 (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years.
> thoughts.
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Thanks for the update.
>>
>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>> leaking into the engine.
>>
>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses
>> to help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will
>> using an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Anthony T wrote:
>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth
>>> of diagnosis):
>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if
>>> the Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>
>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions. Now Dead 350 'from' a backfire...Update
Thanks again,
I'll check it with the cap off. stay tuned.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:46055f3d$0$6592$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have the
> rad full to the top all the time.
>
> This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
> overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
> the coolant sucks back into it.
>
> I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
> coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
> ground.
>
> The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
> the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
> tank and still not worry about dry cores.
>
> One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
> off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
> coming out the rad cap.
>
> Mike
>
> Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
>> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
>> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
>> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
>> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize, or
>> find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond 1/3
>> (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years. thoughts.
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Thanks for the update.
>>>
>>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>>> leaking into the engine.
>>>
>>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses to
>>> help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will using
>>> an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth of
>>>> diagnosis):
>>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if the
>>>> Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>>
>>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>>
I'll check it with the cap off. stay tuned.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:46055f3d$0$6592$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have the
> rad full to the top all the time.
>
> This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
> overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
> the coolant sucks back into it.
>
> I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
> coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
> ground.
>
> The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
> the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
> tank and still not worry about dry cores.
>
> One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
> off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
> coming out the rad cap.
>
> Mike
>
> Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
>> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
>> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
>> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
>> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize, or
>> find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond 1/3
>> (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years. thoughts.
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Thanks for the update.
>>>
>>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>>> leaking into the engine.
>>>
>>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses to
>>> help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will using
>>> an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth of
>>>> diagnosis):
>>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if the
>>>> Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>>
>>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions. Now Dead 350 'from' a backfire...Update
Thanks again,
I'll check it with the cap off. stay tuned.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:46055f3d$0$6592$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have the
> rad full to the top all the time.
>
> This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
> overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
> the coolant sucks back into it.
>
> I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
> coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
> ground.
>
> The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
> the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
> tank and still not worry about dry cores.
>
> One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
> off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
> coming out the rad cap.
>
> Mike
>
> Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
>> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
>> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
>> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
>> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize, or
>> find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond 1/3
>> (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years. thoughts.
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Thanks for the update.
>>>
>>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>>> leaking into the engine.
>>>
>>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses to
>>> help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will using
>>> an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth of
>>>> diagnosis):
>>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if the
>>>> Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>>
>>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>>
I'll check it with the cap off. stay tuned.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:46055f3d$0$6592$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have the
> rad full to the top all the time.
>
> This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
> overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
> the coolant sucks back into it.
>
> I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
> coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
> ground.
>
> The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
> the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
> tank and still not worry about dry cores.
>
> One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
> off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
> coming out the rad cap.
>
> Mike
>
> Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
>> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
>> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
>> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
>> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize, or
>> find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond 1/3
>> (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years. thoughts.
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Thanks for the update.
>>>
>>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>>> leaking into the engine.
>>>
>>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses to
>>> help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will using
>>> an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth of
>>>> diagnosis):
>>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if the
>>>> Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>>
>>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions. Now Dead 350 'from' a backfire...Update
Thanks again,
I'll check it with the cap off. stay tuned.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:46055f3d$0$6592$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have the
> rad full to the top all the time.
>
> This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
> overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
> the coolant sucks back into it.
>
> I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
> coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
> ground.
>
> The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
> the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
> tank and still not worry about dry cores.
>
> One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
> off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
> coming out the rad cap.
>
> Mike
>
> Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
>> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
>> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
>> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
>> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize, or
>> find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond 1/3
>> (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years. thoughts.
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Thanks for the update.
>>>
>>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>>> leaking into the engine.
>>>
>>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses to
>>> help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will using
>>> an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth of
>>>> diagnosis):
>>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if the
>>>> Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>>
>>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>>
I'll check it with the cap off. stay tuned.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:46055f3d$0$6592$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have the
> rad full to the top all the time.
>
> This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
> overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
> the coolant sucks back into it.
>
> I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
> coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
> ground.
>
> The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
> the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
> tank and still not worry about dry cores.
>
> One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
> off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
> coming out the rad cap.
>
> Mike
>
> Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
>> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
>> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
>> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
>> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize, or
>> find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond 1/3
>> (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years. thoughts.
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Thanks for the update.
>>>
>>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>>> leaking into the engine.
>>>
>>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses to
>>> help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will using
>>> an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth of
>>>> diagnosis):
>>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if the
>>>> Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>>
>>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions. Now Dead 350 'from' a backfire...Update
On Sat, 24 Mar 2007 13:26:17 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have
>the rad full to the top all the time.
>
>This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
>overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
>the coolant sucks back into it.
Yess this is what it was designed to do
>
>I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
>coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
>ground.
>
>The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
>the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
>tank and still not worry about dry cores.
This makes no sense at all. With a horizonal core with side tanks and
the level drops in tanks, more of the core is exposed. A vertical core
with a tank on the top can be run a little low on coolant and still
make use of the complete core. This style also better tolerates having
no recovery tank but it is kinda foolish not to use one because it
allows the air to burp out of system to prevent cavitation of pump.
More than anything hood lines and stylingm mandated a design shift
from vertical to horizonal cores and coolant recovers tanks allow for
the horizonal cores to be kept full all the time for best efficency.
>
>One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
>off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
>coming out the rad cap.
Sometimes it can just be steam too so this is not a good test unless
it is a real big leak. As stated earlier a long term pressure test
with air would reveal if there is a leak. You want engine temp at
ambient temp because if you start with a warm engine that cools the
air contracts as it cools and can cuase pressure to drop some and
change readings. Water expandes to when heated and the reason you have
a coolant recovery system on most newer vehicles.
>
>Mike
>
>Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
>> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
>> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
>> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
>> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize,
>> or find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond
>> 1/3 (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years.
>> thoughts.
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Thanks for the update.
>>>
>>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>>> leaking into the engine.
>>>
>>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses
>>> to help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will
>>> using an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth
>>>> of diagnosis):
>>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if
>>>> the Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>>
>>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>>
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
>The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have
>the rad full to the top all the time.
>
>This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
>overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
>the coolant sucks back into it.
Yess this is what it was designed to do
>
>I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
>coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
>ground.
>
>The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
>the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
>tank and still not worry about dry cores.
This makes no sense at all. With a horizonal core with side tanks and
the level drops in tanks, more of the core is exposed. A vertical core
with a tank on the top can be run a little low on coolant and still
make use of the complete core. This style also better tolerates having
no recovery tank but it is kinda foolish not to use one because it
allows the air to burp out of system to prevent cavitation of pump.
More than anything hood lines and stylingm mandated a design shift
from vertical to horizonal cores and coolant recovers tanks allow for
the horizonal cores to be kept full all the time for best efficency.
>
>One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
>off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
>coming out the rad cap.
Sometimes it can just be steam too so this is not a good test unless
it is a real big leak. As stated earlier a long term pressure test
with air would reveal if there is a leak. You want engine temp at
ambient temp because if you start with a warm engine that cools the
air contracts as it cools and can cuase pressure to drop some and
change readings. Water expandes to when heated and the reason you have
a coolant recovery system on most newer vehicles.
>
>Mike
>
>Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
>> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
>> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
>> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
>> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize,
>> or find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond
>> 1/3 (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years.
>> thoughts.
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Thanks for the update.
>>>
>>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>>> leaking into the engine.
>>>
>>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses
>>> to help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will
>>> using an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth
>>>> of diagnosis):
>>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if
>>>> the Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>>
>>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>>
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions. Now Dead 350 'from' a backfire...Update
On Sat, 24 Mar 2007 13:26:17 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have
>the rad full to the top all the time.
>
>This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
>overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
>the coolant sucks back into it.
Yess this is what it was designed to do
>
>I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
>coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
>ground.
>
>The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
>the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
>tank and still not worry about dry cores.
This makes no sense at all. With a horizonal core with side tanks and
the level drops in tanks, more of the core is exposed. A vertical core
with a tank on the top can be run a little low on coolant and still
make use of the complete core. This style also better tolerates having
no recovery tank but it is kinda foolish not to use one because it
allows the air to burp out of system to prevent cavitation of pump.
More than anything hood lines and stylingm mandated a design shift
from vertical to horizonal cores and coolant recovers tanks allow for
the horizonal cores to be kept full all the time for best efficency.
>
>One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
>off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
>coming out the rad cap.
Sometimes it can just be steam too so this is not a good test unless
it is a real big leak. As stated earlier a long term pressure test
with air would reveal if there is a leak. You want engine temp at
ambient temp because if you start with a warm engine that cools the
air contracts as it cools and can cuase pressure to drop some and
change readings. Water expandes to when heated and the reason you have
a coolant recovery system on most newer vehicles.
>
>Mike
>
>Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
>> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
>> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
>> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
>> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize,
>> or find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond
>> 1/3 (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years.
>> thoughts.
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Thanks for the update.
>>>
>>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>>> leaking into the engine.
>>>
>>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses
>>> to help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will
>>> using an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth
>>>> of diagnosis):
>>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if
>>>> the Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>>
>>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>>
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
>The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have
>the rad full to the top all the time.
>
>This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
>overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
>the coolant sucks back into it.
Yess this is what it was designed to do
>
>I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
>coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
>ground.
>
>The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
>the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
>tank and still not worry about dry cores.
This makes no sense at all. With a horizonal core with side tanks and
the level drops in tanks, more of the core is exposed. A vertical core
with a tank on the top can be run a little low on coolant and still
make use of the complete core. This style also better tolerates having
no recovery tank but it is kinda foolish not to use one because it
allows the air to burp out of system to prevent cavitation of pump.
More than anything hood lines and stylingm mandated a design shift
from vertical to horizonal cores and coolant recovers tanks allow for
the horizonal cores to be kept full all the time for best efficency.
>
>One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
>off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
>coming out the rad cap.
Sometimes it can just be steam too so this is not a good test unless
it is a real big leak. As stated earlier a long term pressure test
with air would reveal if there is a leak. You want engine temp at
ambient temp because if you start with a warm engine that cools the
air contracts as it cools and can cuase pressure to drop some and
change readings. Water expandes to when heated and the reason you have
a coolant recovery system on most newer vehicles.
>
>Mike
>
>Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
>> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
>> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
>> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
>> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize,
>> or find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond
>> 1/3 (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years.
>> thoughts.
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Thanks for the update.
>>>
>>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>>> leaking into the engine.
>>>
>>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses
>>> to help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will
>>> using an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth
>>>> of diagnosis):
>>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if
>>>> the Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>>
>>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>>
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions. Now Dead 350 'from' a backfire...Update
On Sat, 24 Mar 2007 13:26:17 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have
>the rad full to the top all the time.
>
>This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
>overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
>the coolant sucks back into it.
Yess this is what it was designed to do
>
>I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
>coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
>ground.
>
>The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
>the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
>tank and still not worry about dry cores.
This makes no sense at all. With a horizonal core with side tanks and
the level drops in tanks, more of the core is exposed. A vertical core
with a tank on the top can be run a little low on coolant and still
make use of the complete core. This style also better tolerates having
no recovery tank but it is kinda foolish not to use one because it
allows the air to burp out of system to prevent cavitation of pump.
More than anything hood lines and stylingm mandated a design shift
from vertical to horizonal cores and coolant recovers tanks allow for
the horizonal cores to be kept full all the time for best efficency.
>
>One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
>off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
>coming out the rad cap.
Sometimes it can just be steam too so this is not a good test unless
it is a real big leak. As stated earlier a long term pressure test
with air would reveal if there is a leak. You want engine temp at
ambient temp because if you start with a warm engine that cools the
air contracts as it cools and can cuase pressure to drop some and
change readings. Water expandes to when heated and the reason you have
a coolant recovery system on most newer vehicles.
>
>Mike
>
>Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
>> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
>> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
>> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
>> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize,
>> or find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond
>> 1/3 (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years.
>> thoughts.
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Thanks for the update.
>>>
>>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>>> leaking into the engine.
>>>
>>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses
>>> to help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will
>>> using an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth
>>>> of diagnosis):
>>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if
>>>> the Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>>
>>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>>
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
>The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have
>the rad full to the top all the time.
>
>This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
>overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
>the coolant sucks back into it.
Yess this is what it was designed to do
>
>I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
>coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
>ground.
>
>The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
>the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
>tank and still not worry about dry cores.
This makes no sense at all. With a horizonal core with side tanks and
the level drops in tanks, more of the core is exposed. A vertical core
with a tank on the top can be run a little low on coolant and still
make use of the complete core. This style also better tolerates having
no recovery tank but it is kinda foolish not to use one because it
allows the air to burp out of system to prevent cavitation of pump.
More than anything hood lines and stylingm mandated a design shift
from vertical to horizonal cores and coolant recovers tanks allow for
the horizonal cores to be kept full all the time for best efficency.
>
>One thing I do when checking out systems is to warm it up with the cap
>off. If there is exhaust pressurizing it, you can usually see smoke
>coming out the rad cap.
Sometimes it can just be steam too so this is not a good test unless
it is a real big leak. As stated earlier a long term pressure test
with air would reveal if there is a leak. You want engine temp at
ambient temp because if you start with a warm engine that cools the
air contracts as it cools and can cuase pressure to drop some and
change readings. Water expandes to when heated and the reason you have
a coolant recovery system on most newer vehicles.
>
>Mike
>
>Anthony T wrote:
>> Mike,
>> the one thing I forgot to mention is anti-freeze does come out the
>> overflow cap tube when the engine has been running. The mechanic says
>> it's caused by the cracked head pressurizing my cooling system (he
>> believes). I'm not so sure. He added a bunch of anti-freeze to the
>> radiator so I'm wondering if the cooling system is trying to equalize,
>> or find equilibrium. Having said that, my temp gauge rarely goes beyond
>> 1/3 (it never reaches half-way) and it's been like that for years.
>> thoughts.
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:46054efc$0$3985$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Thanks for the update.
>>>
>>> I would just keep a close eye on the rad fluid to be sure it isn't
>>> leaking into the engine.
>>>
>>> I know lots of folks that use a bit of oil on the rad or heater hoses
>>> to help them slip on. This will give a reading on a tester. So will
>>> using an oil dirty funnel for coolant.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Anthony T wrote:
>>>> Mike and SnoMan,
>>>> The jeep runs ok now.
>>>> Here's what the mechanic found (after a couple hundred dollars worth
>>>> of diagnosis):
>>>> He believes when I hooked up the Brake Booster (mentioned in another
>>>> post) which by the way leaks, this caused a lean condition on the
>>>> engine and caused it to backfire.
>>>> However he says there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system, which
>>>> leads him to believe one of my heads is cracked.
>>>> He asked if I wanted to replace the heads, I told him no thanks, if
>>>> the Jeep runs, that's fine by me. So now it runs fine.
>>>>
>>>> Gents, thanks for all your assistance. I'll just drive the Jeep for
>>>> now. The heads will have to wait until I get some cash.
>>>>
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions. Now Dead 350 'from' a backfire...Update
SnoMan wrote:
> On Sat, 24 Mar 2007 13:26:17 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have
>> the rad full to the top all the time.
>>
>> This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
>> overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
>> the coolant sucks back into it.
>
> Yess this is what it was designed to do
>
>> I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
>> coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
>> ground.
>>
>> The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
>> the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
>> tank and still not worry about dry cores.
>
> This makes no sense at all.
The design engineers thought it made sense. If you have 4" of a side
tank open to air, then 20" or more of cores are still fully filled with
fluid.
The side tanks had a 'full hot and full cold' mark on them even.
If you are down 4" on a top tank 'all' the core tops are open to air and
only the ones at the very edge below the top rad hose will run coolant
when the pump flows, the rest are air locked with stagnated coolant.
Emissions mandated the closed systems, not hood designs.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Sat, 24 Mar 2007 13:26:17 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> The newer rad systems are designed to use an overflow bottle and have
>> the rad full to the top all the time.
>>
>> This means as they warm up, the coolant comes out of the rad into the
>> overflow bottle. The rad cap is a two way cap. As the rad cools down,
>> the coolant sucks back into it.
>
> Yess this is what it was designed to do
>
>> I currently have no overflow bottle on my CJ7 so I can only have the
>> coolant just covering the cores by 1/4" or so or it will puke out on the
>> ground.
>>
>> The older rads with the side tanks and horizontal cores were better for
>> the open systems. You could just have the fluid down a ways on the side
>> tank and still not worry about dry cores.
>
> This makes no sense at all.
The design engineers thought it made sense. If you have 4" of a side
tank open to air, then 20" or more of cores are still fully filled with
fluid.
The side tanks had a 'full hot and full cold' mark on them even.
If you are down 4" on a top tank 'all' the core tops are open to air and
only the ones at the very edge below the top rad hose will run coolant
when the pump flows, the rest are air locked with stagnated coolant.
Emissions mandated the closed systems, not hood designs.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
