KLB

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<vtsclut7b8971a@corp.supernews.com>...
> "KLB" <klb_57@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:6775b857.0312141607.208f9c7c@posting.google.c om...
> > Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> > here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
> >
> > 88 Jeep YJ
> > Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> > 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
> >
> > Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> > sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> > will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> > it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> > rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> > which way I need to go.
> >
> > Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> > choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> > So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> > If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> > bit?
> > Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> > I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> > Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> > Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> > adjust it to where it works?
> > Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> > properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> > I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> > to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
>
> What is wrong with pumping the gas pedal twice and holding it while cranking
> the key? Carburated motors frequently need a little help to get started. I
> think you are spending service effort on something that doesn't need to be
> serviced as much as it needs to be learned how operate.


The problem was it would crank for ever and at times it would seem to
catch then blow back thru the carb, to me this was asking for trouble
not to mention un-needed wear on my starter/battery. I backed off the
choke a few notches and it starts up quite nice now, easy fix with
good results the way I see it.

KLB

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<vtsclut7b8971a@corp.supernews.com>...
> "KLB" <klb_57@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:6775b857.0312141607.208f9c7c@posting.google.c om...
> > Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> > here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
> >
> > 88 Jeep YJ
> > Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> > 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
> >
> > Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> > sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> > will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> > it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> > rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> > which way I need to go.
> >
> > Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> > choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> > So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> > If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> > bit?
> > Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> > I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> > Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> > Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> > adjust it to where it works?
> > Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> > properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> > I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> > to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
>
> What is wrong with pumping the gas pedal twice and holding it while cranking
> the key? Carburated motors frequently need a little help to get started. I
> think you are spending service effort on something that doesn't need to be
> serviced as much as it needs to be learned how operate.


The problem was it would crank for ever and at times it would seem to
catch then blow back thru the carb, to me this was asking for trouble
not to mention un-needed wear on my starter/battery. I backed off the
choke a few notches and it starts up quite nice now, easy fix with
good results the way I see it.

KLB

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<vtsclut7b8971a@corp.supernews.com>...
> "KLB" <klb_57@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:6775b857.0312141607.208f9c7c@posting.google.c om...
> > Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> > here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
> >
> > 88 Jeep YJ
> > Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> > 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
> >
> > Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> > sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> > will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> > it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> > rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> > which way I need to go.
> >
> > Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> > choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> > So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> > If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> > bit?
> > Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> > I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> > Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> > Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> > adjust it to where it works?
> > Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> > properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> > I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> > to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.
>
> What is wrong with pumping the gas pedal twice and holding it while cranking
> the key? Carburated motors frequently need a little help to get started. I
> think you are spending service effort on something that doesn't need to be
> serviced as much as it needs to be learned how operate.


The problem was it would crank for ever and at times it would seem to
catch then blow back thru the carb, to me this was asking for trouble
not to mention un-needed wear on my starter/battery. I backed off the
choke a few notches and it starts up quite nice now, easy fix with
good results the way I see it.

Mike Romain

KLB wrote:
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3FDDDD50.B206ABC0@sympatico.ca>...
> > I don't know where to start....
> >
> > Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
> > the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
> > gets manifold vacuum.
>
> Ok thats what I thought and that is where it is.
> Maybe you could explain to me why the pull off is needed as the choke
> opens as the vehicle warms up anyways?

When your choke is closed , there should be a very slight gap so it
sucks big time for starting. Then as soon as it sees vacuum, the pull
of opens all the way which cracks open the choke butterfly so it will
run until the timer starts opening up the choke.

Fully closed after a start will bog it down almost instantly. I have a
manual choke and when I start mine, I can feel the choke pull off
adjusting mine because the cable actually moves back in.

>
> > Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
> > center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
> > line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
> > the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
> > difficult to start when cold.
>
> It appears to be installed correctly.
> > The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
> I set it there this morning when the engine was cold and the plate
> went to about 1/8" open, it started right up after I pumped it
> twice....THANKS
>
> > With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
> > the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
> > up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
>
> The fast idle was giving me about 1200 which seems to work ok it ran
> there fine until I kicked it off.

When really cold, mine starts at 1200 rpm and if I don't touch the fast
idle setting, it will climb up to 1500 pretty fast as I open the choke.

You might like it better if you do the warm setup and put it to 1750 on
the second from top step. The higher rpm when choking helps prevent it
from bogging down.

>
> But I did notice that it is now a bit harder to start after I have
> driven it around for awhile, I did install new plugs last week and I
> tried the gap at .040 since I'm running a Accel Super Coil I thought I
> might be able to open the gap a bit. I have since reduced the gap to
> .030 which works better but from I have read now plugs will probably
> have to be changed out more often. Does reducing the gap have an
> effect on starting when hot?

It seems to. I had mine at 45 with the Accel super coil, but found it
starts better dropped back down a bit.

Mike


>
> > I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
> > crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
> > and sets the choke fast idle as well.
> >
> > Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
> > first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
> > timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
> > want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
> > issue though, just the nature of the setup.
> >
> > Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
> > PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
> > lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
> > at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
> > junk.
> >
> > I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
> >
> > Hope some of this helps
>
> It sure has helped thats for taking the time to respond.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > KLB wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> > > here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
> > >
> > > 88 Jeep YJ
> > > Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> > > 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
> > >
> > > Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> > > sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> > > will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> > > it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> > > rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> > > which way I need to go.
> > >
> > > Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> > > choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> > > So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> > > If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> > > bit?
> > > Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> > > I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> > > Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> > > Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> > > adjust it to where it works?
> > > Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> > > properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> > > I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> > > to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.

Mike Romain

KLB wrote:
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3FDDDD50.B206ABC0@sympatico.ca>...
> > I don't know where to start....
> >
> > Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
> > the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
> > gets manifold vacuum.
>
> Ok thats what I thought and that is where it is.
> Maybe you could explain to me why the pull off is needed as the choke
> opens as the vehicle warms up anyways?

When your choke is closed , there should be a very slight gap so it
sucks big time for starting. Then as soon as it sees vacuum, the pull
of opens all the way which cracks open the choke butterfly so it will
run until the timer starts opening up the choke.

Fully closed after a start will bog it down almost instantly. I have a
manual choke and when I start mine, I can feel the choke pull off
adjusting mine because the cable actually moves back in.

>
> > Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
> > center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
> > line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
> > the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
> > difficult to start when cold.
>
> It appears to be installed correctly.
> > The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
> I set it there this morning when the engine was cold and the plate
> went to about 1/8" open, it started right up after I pumped it
> twice....THANKS
>
> > With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
> > the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
> > up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
>
> The fast idle was giving me about 1200 which seems to work ok it ran
> there fine until I kicked it off.

When really cold, mine starts at 1200 rpm and if I don't touch the fast
idle setting, it will climb up to 1500 pretty fast as I open the choke.

You might like it better if you do the warm setup and put it to 1750 on
the second from top step. The higher rpm when choking helps prevent it
from bogging down.

>
> But I did notice that it is now a bit harder to start after I have
> driven it around for awhile, I did install new plugs last week and I
> tried the gap at .040 since I'm running a Accel Super Coil I thought I
> might be able to open the gap a bit. I have since reduced the gap to
> .030 which works better but from I have read now plugs will probably
> have to be changed out more often. Does reducing the gap have an
> effect on starting when hot?

It seems to. I had mine at 45 with the Accel super coil, but found it
starts better dropped back down a bit.

Mike


>
> > I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
> > crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
> > and sets the choke fast idle as well.
> >
> > Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
> > first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
> > timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
> > want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
> > issue though, just the nature of the setup.
> >
> > Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
> > PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
> > lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
> > at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
> > junk.
> >
> > I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
> >
> > Hope some of this helps
>
> It sure has helped thats for taking the time to respond.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > KLB wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> > > here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
> > >
> > > 88 Jeep YJ
> > > Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> > > 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
> > >
> > > Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> > > sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> > > will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> > > it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> > > rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> > > which way I need to go.
> > >
> > > Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> > > choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> > > So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> > > If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> > > bit?
> > > Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> > > I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> > > Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> > > Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> > > adjust it to where it works?
> > > Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> > > properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> > > I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> > > to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.

Mike Romain

KLB wrote:
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3FDDDD50.B206ABC0@sympatico.ca>...
> > I don't know where to start....
> >
> > Ok, the choke pull off hooks up to the vacuum nipple in the center of
> > the back side of the bottom carb plate right beside the PCV nipple. It
> > gets manifold vacuum.
>
> Ok thats what I thought and that is where it is.
> Maybe you could explain to me why the pull off is needed as the choke
> opens as the vehicle warms up anyways?

When your choke is closed , there should be a very slight gap so it
sucks big time for starting. Then as soon as it sees vacuum, the pull
of opens all the way which cracks open the choke butterfly so it will
run until the timer starts opening up the choke.

Fully closed after a start will bog it down almost instantly. I have a
manual choke and when I start mine, I can feel the choke pull off
adjusting mine because the cable actually moves back in.

>
> > Is your gas filter in right side up? The filter has 2 outlets, the
> > center outlet goes to the carb and the 'top' outlet goes to the return
> > line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to
> > the tank air locking the lines when it sits. This makes them very
> > difficult to start when cold.
>
> It appears to be installed correctly.
> > The cover on the choke should be about 2 notches rich.
> I set it there this morning when the engine was cold and the plate
> went to about 1/8" open, it started right up after I pumped it
> twice....THANKS
>
> > With a warmed up engine, you put the fast idle cam on the second from
> > the top step and set the rpm at 1750 by adjusting the screw. This sets
> > up the fast idle part of the choke properly.
>
> The fast idle was giving me about 1200 which seems to work ok it ran
> there fine until I kicked it off.

When really cold, mine starts at 1200 rpm and if I don't touch the fast
idle setting, it will climb up to 1500 pretty fast as I open the choke.

You might like it better if you do the warm setup and put it to 1750 on
the second from top step. The higher rpm when choking helps prevent it
from bogging down.

>
> But I did notice that it is now a bit harder to start after I have
> driven it around for awhile, I did install new plugs last week and I
> tried the gap at .040 since I'm running a Accel Super Coil I thought I
> might be able to open the gap a bit. I have since reduced the gap to
> .030 which works better but from I have read now plugs will probably
> have to be changed out more often. Does reducing the gap have an
> effect on starting when hot?

It seems to. I had mine at 45 with the Accel super coil, but found it
starts better dropped back down a bit.

Mike


>
> > I need 3 shots to the floor of the gas pedal to have mine start first
> > crank in pretty much any temperature. This primes the intake manifold
> > and sets the choke fast idle as well.
> >
> > Even with a choke operating 'perfectly', you will have issues for the
> > first few minutes of trying to drive it cold. The choke works on a
> > timer, it has no bearing on how cold the engine 'really' is so it will
> > want to up and die until it really warms up. That isn't a starting
> > issue though, just the nature of the setup.
> >
> > Oh, my engine will 'not' run for ---- or start easily at all if I use
> > PetroCan gas. I don't know what the heck they mix the crap with, but I
> > lose the idle (misses like crazy) and it starts bogging out and pinging
> > at 100 kph. I also lose about 100 miles of travel per tank with the
> > junk.
> >
> > I seem to run best with ESSO gas.
> >
> > Hope some of this helps
>
> It sure has helped thats for taking the time to respond.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > KLB wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello folks I was pointed here by some folks that said that someone
> > > here might be able to help me with a problem I have.
> > >
> > > 88 Jeep YJ
> > > Carter Carb (new April or May 2003)
> > > 4.2 L with 220,000 kms
> > >
> > > Ok the problem is this vehicle will crank and sometimes fire then
> > > sputter but most times I have to put the peddle to the floor then it
> > > will start. It has an electric choke that closes off when it cools and
> > > it opens after it starts, I was told I need to adjust the choke by
> > > rotating the black cap which adjusts the coil tension but I'm not sure
> > > which way I need to go.
> > >
> > > Turning it forward I have deducted that it places more tension on the
> > > choke and holds it closed I bit harder.
> > > So I assume that this will keep it closed longer?
> > > If this is the case then wouldn't I need to back off this tension a
> > > bit?
> > > Where should the vacuum pull off be connected to?
> > > I have been told ported and someone else said manifold.
> > > Short of going with a manual choke do you folks have any suggestions?
> > > Should I be using the indicator marks on the choke adjustment or just
> > > adjust it to where it works?
> > > Sorry for all the questions but I need this vehicle to be working
> > > properly this winter it is my ride to work.
> > > I have recently replaced plugs/wires and various other pieces related
> > > to my problem but everything keeps pointing back to carb problems.