cherokee auto, towing and transmission coolers
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cherokee auto, towing and transmission coolers
On Wed, 9 Mar 2005 10:04:17 UTC Danny
<danny@nospam.gaggia-espresso.com> wrote:
> Will Honea wrote:
>
> > The mount issue with the tow setup is the same regardless of the ball
> > attachment - the rig has to attach to the subframe so that it ------s
> > the load. The channels are not as heavy as a ladder frame so one or
> > two bolts too close together will pull through.
> >
> > As for the 'standard' cooler - virtually all automatics have a cooler
> > in the radiator - you'll see the hoses to one of the end caps. Unless
> > that 6 miles is a 6-10% grade, that should do you.
> >
>
> Thanks. My drive to work is mostly motorway with a reasonably long
> uphill sliproad, at the top of which I need to be doing 50. I would
> prefer to ensure the transmission couldn't overheat, so given that
> there is a cooler as standard, is there a heavy duty cooler available
> as well?
As some of the others have noted, there are generic cooling units -
about like a small radiator of a heater core - that you simply patch
inline with the existing plumbing that runs up to the radiator. Some
ill mount the add-on in front of the radiator for the air flow but
that blocks some of the air to the radiator. These are cheap - $30-50
US - and quick to install (if a little messy - you are dealing with
hydraulic oil <g>). Check out some local RV shops - this is a big
issue with those pulling trailers (I think it's what you would call a
caravan) so they can likely set you up quickly. Personally, I'm more
concerned with stopping than anything else with a load like that - I
don't give any Jeep a world-class rating for excess braking power.
--
Will Honea
<danny@nospam.gaggia-espresso.com> wrote:
> Will Honea wrote:
>
> > The mount issue with the tow setup is the same regardless of the ball
> > attachment - the rig has to attach to the subframe so that it ------s
> > the load. The channels are not as heavy as a ladder frame so one or
> > two bolts too close together will pull through.
> >
> > As for the 'standard' cooler - virtually all automatics have a cooler
> > in the radiator - you'll see the hoses to one of the end caps. Unless
> > that 6 miles is a 6-10% grade, that should do you.
> >
>
> Thanks. My drive to work is mostly motorway with a reasonably long
> uphill sliproad, at the top of which I need to be doing 50. I would
> prefer to ensure the transmission couldn't overheat, so given that
> there is a cooler as standard, is there a heavy duty cooler available
> as well?
As some of the others have noted, there are generic cooling units -
about like a small radiator of a heater core - that you simply patch
inline with the existing plumbing that runs up to the radiator. Some
ill mount the add-on in front of the radiator for the air flow but
that blocks some of the air to the radiator. These are cheap - $30-50
US - and quick to install (if a little messy - you are dealing with
hydraulic oil <g>). Check out some local RV shops - this is a big
issue with those pulling trailers (I think it's what you would call a
caravan) so they can likely set you up quickly. Personally, I'm more
concerned with stopping than anything else with a load like that - I
don't give any Jeep a world-class rating for excess braking power.
--
Will Honea
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cherokee auto, towing and transmission coolers
Will Honea wrote:
> As some of the others have noted, there are generic cooling units -
> about like a small radiator of a heater core - that you simply patch
> inline with the existing plumbing that runs up to the radiator. Some
> ill mount the add-on in front of the radiator for the air flow but
> that blocks some of the air to the radiator. These are cheap - $30-50
> US - and quick to install (if a little messy - you are dealing with
> hydraulic oil <g>). Check out some local RV shops - this is a big
> issue with those pulling trailers (I think it's what you would call a
> caravan) so they can likely set you up quickly. Personally, I'm more
> concerned with stopping than anything else with a load like that - I
> don't give any Jeep a world-class rating for excess braking power.
>
Thanks for the info. WRT stopping - I doubt that the Jeeps brakes are
any worse than a 1984 Landrover 110, which stopped fine (aided by the
trailer brakes, of the overrun variety)... I suppose the manual
gearbox in the 110 helped - not much engine braking in a Jeep
automatic, I assume?
I actually drive looking ahead (I'm a biker also) and look for
situations where advance action might be required. I have actually
ridden my 1100cc bike for 45 miles through countryside, towns and
villages to work each day with little or no braking (even whilst
travelling up to 150mph) :)
--
Regards,
Danny
http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service)
http://www.malabargold.co.uk (UK/European online ordering for Malabar
Gold blend)
swap Z for above characters in email address to reply
> As some of the others have noted, there are generic cooling units -
> about like a small radiator of a heater core - that you simply patch
> inline with the existing plumbing that runs up to the radiator. Some
> ill mount the add-on in front of the radiator for the air flow but
> that blocks some of the air to the radiator. These are cheap - $30-50
> US - and quick to install (if a little messy - you are dealing with
> hydraulic oil <g>). Check out some local RV shops - this is a big
> issue with those pulling trailers (I think it's what you would call a
> caravan) so they can likely set you up quickly. Personally, I'm more
> concerned with stopping than anything else with a load like that - I
> don't give any Jeep a world-class rating for excess braking power.
>
Thanks for the info. WRT stopping - I doubt that the Jeeps brakes are
any worse than a 1984 Landrover 110, which stopped fine (aided by the
trailer brakes, of the overrun variety)... I suppose the manual
gearbox in the 110 helped - not much engine braking in a Jeep
automatic, I assume?
I actually drive looking ahead (I'm a biker also) and look for
situations where advance action might be required. I have actually
ridden my 1100cc bike for 45 miles through countryside, towns and
villages to work each day with little or no braking (even whilst
travelling up to 150mph) :)
--
Regards,
Danny
http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service)
http://www.malabargold.co.uk (UK/European online ordering for Malabar
Gold blend)
swap Z for above characters in email address to reply
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cherokee auto, towing and transmission coolers
Will Honea wrote:
> As some of the others have noted, there are generic cooling units -
> about like a small radiator of a heater core - that you simply patch
> inline with the existing plumbing that runs up to the radiator. Some
> ill mount the add-on in front of the radiator for the air flow but
> that blocks some of the air to the radiator. These are cheap - $30-50
> US - and quick to install (if a little messy - you are dealing with
> hydraulic oil <g>). Check out some local RV shops - this is a big
> issue with those pulling trailers (I think it's what you would call a
> caravan) so they can likely set you up quickly. Personally, I'm more
> concerned with stopping than anything else with a load like that - I
> don't give any Jeep a world-class rating for excess braking power.
>
Thanks for the info. WRT stopping - I doubt that the Jeeps brakes are
any worse than a 1984 Landrover 110, which stopped fine (aided by the
trailer brakes, of the overrun variety)... I suppose the manual
gearbox in the 110 helped - not much engine braking in a Jeep
automatic, I assume?
I actually drive looking ahead (I'm a biker also) and look for
situations where advance action might be required. I have actually
ridden my 1100cc bike for 45 miles through countryside, towns and
villages to work each day with little or no braking (even whilst
travelling up to 150mph) :)
--
Regards,
Danny
http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service)
http://www.malabargold.co.uk (UK/European online ordering for Malabar
Gold blend)
swap Z for above characters in email address to reply
> As some of the others have noted, there are generic cooling units -
> about like a small radiator of a heater core - that you simply patch
> inline with the existing plumbing that runs up to the radiator. Some
> ill mount the add-on in front of the radiator for the air flow but
> that blocks some of the air to the radiator. These are cheap - $30-50
> US - and quick to install (if a little messy - you are dealing with
> hydraulic oil <g>). Check out some local RV shops - this is a big
> issue with those pulling trailers (I think it's what you would call a
> caravan) so they can likely set you up quickly. Personally, I'm more
> concerned with stopping than anything else with a load like that - I
> don't give any Jeep a world-class rating for excess braking power.
>
Thanks for the info. WRT stopping - I doubt that the Jeeps brakes are
any worse than a 1984 Landrover 110, which stopped fine (aided by the
trailer brakes, of the overrun variety)... I suppose the manual
gearbox in the 110 helped - not much engine braking in a Jeep
automatic, I assume?
I actually drive looking ahead (I'm a biker also) and look for
situations where advance action might be required. I have actually
ridden my 1100cc bike for 45 miles through countryside, towns and
villages to work each day with little or no braking (even whilst
travelling up to 150mph) :)
--
Regards,
Danny
http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service)
http://www.malabargold.co.uk (UK/European online ordering for Malabar
Gold blend)
swap Z for above characters in email address to reply
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cherokee auto, towing and transmission coolers
Will Honea wrote:
> As some of the others have noted, there are generic cooling units -
> about like a small radiator of a heater core - that you simply patch
> inline with the existing plumbing that runs up to the radiator. Some
> ill mount the add-on in front of the radiator for the air flow but
> that blocks some of the air to the radiator. These are cheap - $30-50
> US - and quick to install (if a little messy - you are dealing with
> hydraulic oil <g>). Check out some local RV shops - this is a big
> issue with those pulling trailers (I think it's what you would call a
> caravan) so they can likely set you up quickly. Personally, I'm more
> concerned with stopping than anything else with a load like that - I
> don't give any Jeep a world-class rating for excess braking power.
>
Thanks for the info. WRT stopping - I doubt that the Jeeps brakes are
any worse than a 1984 Landrover 110, which stopped fine (aided by the
trailer brakes, of the overrun variety)... I suppose the manual
gearbox in the 110 helped - not much engine braking in a Jeep
automatic, I assume?
I actually drive looking ahead (I'm a biker also) and look for
situations where advance action might be required. I have actually
ridden my 1100cc bike for 45 miles through countryside, towns and
villages to work each day with little or no braking (even whilst
travelling up to 150mph) :)
--
Regards,
Danny
http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service)
http://www.malabargold.co.uk (UK/European online ordering for Malabar
Gold blend)
swap Z for above characters in email address to reply
> As some of the others have noted, there are generic cooling units -
> about like a small radiator of a heater core - that you simply patch
> inline with the existing plumbing that runs up to the radiator. Some
> ill mount the add-on in front of the radiator for the air flow but
> that blocks some of the air to the radiator. These are cheap - $30-50
> US - and quick to install (if a little messy - you are dealing with
> hydraulic oil <g>). Check out some local RV shops - this is a big
> issue with those pulling trailers (I think it's what you would call a
> caravan) so they can likely set you up quickly. Personally, I'm more
> concerned with stopping than anything else with a load like that - I
> don't give any Jeep a world-class rating for excess braking power.
>
Thanks for the info. WRT stopping - I doubt that the Jeeps brakes are
any worse than a 1984 Landrover 110, which stopped fine (aided by the
trailer brakes, of the overrun variety)... I suppose the manual
gearbox in the 110 helped - not much engine braking in a Jeep
automatic, I assume?
I actually drive looking ahead (I'm a biker also) and look for
situations where advance action might be required. I have actually
ridden my 1100cc bike for 45 miles through countryside, towns and
villages to work each day with little or no braking (even whilst
travelling up to 150mph) :)
--
Regards,
Danny
http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service)
http://www.malabargold.co.uk (UK/European online ordering for Malabar
Gold blend)
swap Z for above characters in email address to reply
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cherokee auto, towing and transmission coolers
On Wed, 9 Mar 2005 20:21:07 UTC Danny
<danny@nospam.gaggia-espresso.com> wrote:
> Will Honea wrote:
>
> > As some of the others have noted, there are generic cooling units -
> > about like a small radiator of a heater core - that you simply patch
> > inline with the existing plumbing that runs up to the radiator. Some
> > ill mount the add-on in front of the radiator for the air flow but
> > that blocks some of the air to the radiator. These are cheap - $30-50
> > US - and quick to install (if a little messy - you are dealing with
> > hydraulic oil <g>). Check out some local RV shops - this is a big
> > issue with those pulling trailers (I think it's what you would call a
> > caravan) so they can likely set you up quickly. Personally, I'm more
> > concerned with stopping than anything else with a load like that - I
> > don't give any Jeep a world-class rating for excess braking power.
> >
>
> Thanks for the info. WRT stopping - I doubt that the Jeeps brakes are
> any worse than a 1984 Landrover 110, which stopped fine (aided by the
> trailer brakes, of the overrun variety)... I suppose the manual
> gearbox in the 110 helped - not much engine braking in a Jeep
> automatic, I assume?
>
> I actually drive looking ahead (I'm a biker also) and look for
> situations where advance action might be required. I have actually
> ridden my 1100cc bike for 45 miles through countryside, towns and
> villages to work each day with little or no braking (even whilst
> travelling up to 150mph) :)
I forget that they require trailer brakes on one that size on your
side of the pond - makes a bug difference.
On my old Triumph, 90+ and braking were pretty much mutually exclusive
- too easy to break the tires loose and the least bump in the road was
nasty. Only time I got in your speed range was on a 14,000 foot
runway aboard a Vincent (shows how long ago that was<g>).
--
Will Honea
<danny@nospam.gaggia-espresso.com> wrote:
> Will Honea wrote:
>
> > As some of the others have noted, there are generic cooling units -
> > about like a small radiator of a heater core - that you simply patch
> > inline with the existing plumbing that runs up to the radiator. Some
> > ill mount the add-on in front of the radiator for the air flow but
> > that blocks some of the air to the radiator. These are cheap - $30-50
> > US - and quick to install (if a little messy - you are dealing with
> > hydraulic oil <g>). Check out some local RV shops - this is a big
> > issue with those pulling trailers (I think it's what you would call a
> > caravan) so they can likely set you up quickly. Personally, I'm more
> > concerned with stopping than anything else with a load like that - I
> > don't give any Jeep a world-class rating for excess braking power.
> >
>
> Thanks for the info. WRT stopping - I doubt that the Jeeps brakes are
> any worse than a 1984 Landrover 110, which stopped fine (aided by the
> trailer brakes, of the overrun variety)... I suppose the manual
> gearbox in the 110 helped - not much engine braking in a Jeep
> automatic, I assume?
>
> I actually drive looking ahead (I'm a biker also) and look for
> situations where advance action might be required. I have actually
> ridden my 1100cc bike for 45 miles through countryside, towns and
> villages to work each day with little or no braking (even whilst
> travelling up to 150mph) :)
I forget that they require trailer brakes on one that size on your
side of the pond - makes a bug difference.
On my old Triumph, 90+ and braking were pretty much mutually exclusive
- too easy to break the tires loose and the least bump in the road was
nasty. Only time I got in your speed range was on a 14,000 foot
runway aboard a Vincent (shows how long ago that was<g>).
--
Will Honea
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cherokee auto, towing and transmission coolers
On Wed, 9 Mar 2005 20:21:07 UTC Danny
<danny@nospam.gaggia-espresso.com> wrote:
> Will Honea wrote:
>
> > As some of the others have noted, there are generic cooling units -
> > about like a small radiator of a heater core - that you simply patch
> > inline with the existing plumbing that runs up to the radiator. Some
> > ill mount the add-on in front of the radiator for the air flow but
> > that blocks some of the air to the radiator. These are cheap - $30-50
> > US - and quick to install (if a little messy - you are dealing with
> > hydraulic oil <g>). Check out some local RV shops - this is a big
> > issue with those pulling trailers (I think it's what you would call a
> > caravan) so they can likely set you up quickly. Personally, I'm more
> > concerned with stopping than anything else with a load like that - I
> > don't give any Jeep a world-class rating for excess braking power.
> >
>
> Thanks for the info. WRT stopping - I doubt that the Jeeps brakes are
> any worse than a 1984 Landrover 110, which stopped fine (aided by the
> trailer brakes, of the overrun variety)... I suppose the manual
> gearbox in the 110 helped - not much engine braking in a Jeep
> automatic, I assume?
>
> I actually drive looking ahead (I'm a biker also) and look for
> situations where advance action might be required. I have actually
> ridden my 1100cc bike for 45 miles through countryside, towns and
> villages to work each day with little or no braking (even whilst
> travelling up to 150mph) :)
I forget that they require trailer brakes on one that size on your
side of the pond - makes a bug difference.
On my old Triumph, 90+ and braking were pretty much mutually exclusive
- too easy to break the tires loose and the least bump in the road was
nasty. Only time I got in your speed range was on a 14,000 foot
runway aboard a Vincent (shows how long ago that was<g>).
--
Will Honea
<danny@nospam.gaggia-espresso.com> wrote:
> Will Honea wrote:
>
> > As some of the others have noted, there are generic cooling units -
> > about like a small radiator of a heater core - that you simply patch
> > inline with the existing plumbing that runs up to the radiator. Some
> > ill mount the add-on in front of the radiator for the air flow but
> > that blocks some of the air to the radiator. These are cheap - $30-50
> > US - and quick to install (if a little messy - you are dealing with
> > hydraulic oil <g>). Check out some local RV shops - this is a big
> > issue with those pulling trailers (I think it's what you would call a
> > caravan) so they can likely set you up quickly. Personally, I'm more
> > concerned with stopping than anything else with a load like that - I
> > don't give any Jeep a world-class rating for excess braking power.
> >
>
> Thanks for the info. WRT stopping - I doubt that the Jeeps brakes are
> any worse than a 1984 Landrover 110, which stopped fine (aided by the
> trailer brakes, of the overrun variety)... I suppose the manual
> gearbox in the 110 helped - not much engine braking in a Jeep
> automatic, I assume?
>
> I actually drive looking ahead (I'm a biker also) and look for
> situations where advance action might be required. I have actually
> ridden my 1100cc bike for 45 miles through countryside, towns and
> villages to work each day with little or no braking (even whilst
> travelling up to 150mph) :)
I forget that they require trailer brakes on one that size on your
side of the pond - makes a bug difference.
On my old Triumph, 90+ and braking were pretty much mutually exclusive
- too easy to break the tires loose and the least bump in the road was
nasty. Only time I got in your speed range was on a 14,000 foot
runway aboard a Vincent (shows how long ago that was<g>).
--
Will Honea
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cherokee auto, towing and transmission coolers
On Wed, 9 Mar 2005 20:21:07 UTC Danny
<danny@nospam.gaggia-espresso.com> wrote:
> Will Honea wrote:
>
> > As some of the others have noted, there are generic cooling units -
> > about like a small radiator of a heater core - that you simply patch
> > inline with the existing plumbing that runs up to the radiator. Some
> > ill mount the add-on in front of the radiator for the air flow but
> > that blocks some of the air to the radiator. These are cheap - $30-50
> > US - and quick to install (if a little messy - you are dealing with
> > hydraulic oil <g>). Check out some local RV shops - this is a big
> > issue with those pulling trailers (I think it's what you would call a
> > caravan) so they can likely set you up quickly. Personally, I'm more
> > concerned with stopping than anything else with a load like that - I
> > don't give any Jeep a world-class rating for excess braking power.
> >
>
> Thanks for the info. WRT stopping - I doubt that the Jeeps brakes are
> any worse than a 1984 Landrover 110, which stopped fine (aided by the
> trailer brakes, of the overrun variety)... I suppose the manual
> gearbox in the 110 helped - not much engine braking in a Jeep
> automatic, I assume?
>
> I actually drive looking ahead (I'm a biker also) and look for
> situations where advance action might be required. I have actually
> ridden my 1100cc bike for 45 miles through countryside, towns and
> villages to work each day with little or no braking (even whilst
> travelling up to 150mph) :)
I forget that they require trailer brakes on one that size on your
side of the pond - makes a bug difference.
On my old Triumph, 90+ and braking were pretty much mutually exclusive
- too easy to break the tires loose and the least bump in the road was
nasty. Only time I got in your speed range was on a 14,000 foot
runway aboard a Vincent (shows how long ago that was<g>).
--
Will Honea
<danny@nospam.gaggia-espresso.com> wrote:
> Will Honea wrote:
>
> > As some of the others have noted, there are generic cooling units -
> > about like a small radiator of a heater core - that you simply patch
> > inline with the existing plumbing that runs up to the radiator. Some
> > ill mount the add-on in front of the radiator for the air flow but
> > that blocks some of the air to the radiator. These are cheap - $30-50
> > US - and quick to install (if a little messy - you are dealing with
> > hydraulic oil <g>). Check out some local RV shops - this is a big
> > issue with those pulling trailers (I think it's what you would call a
> > caravan) so they can likely set you up quickly. Personally, I'm more
> > concerned with stopping than anything else with a load like that - I
> > don't give any Jeep a world-class rating for excess braking power.
> >
>
> Thanks for the info. WRT stopping - I doubt that the Jeeps brakes are
> any worse than a 1984 Landrover 110, which stopped fine (aided by the
> trailer brakes, of the overrun variety)... I suppose the manual
> gearbox in the 110 helped - not much engine braking in a Jeep
> automatic, I assume?
>
> I actually drive looking ahead (I'm a biker also) and look for
> situations where advance action might be required. I have actually
> ridden my 1100cc bike for 45 miles through countryside, towns and
> villages to work each day with little or no braking (even whilst
> travelling up to 150mph) :)
I forget that they require trailer brakes on one that size on your
side of the pond - makes a bug difference.
On my old Triumph, 90+ and braking were pretty much mutually exclusive
- too easy to break the tires loose and the least bump in the road was
nasty. Only time I got in your speed range was on a 14,000 foot
runway aboard a Vincent (shows how long ago that was<g>).
--
Will Honea
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cherokee auto, towing and transmission coolers
Will Honea wrote:
> I forget that they require trailer brakes on one that size on your
> side of the pond - makes a bug difference.
Yes - every trailer over 750kg has to have overrun brakes (they
operate through the hitch as it's depressed during vehicle braking).
My trailer is a twin axle so it has twin brakes.
>
> On my old Triumph, 90+ and braking were pretty much mutually exclusive
> - too easy to break the tires loose and the least bump in the road was
> nasty. Only time I got in your speed range was on a 14,000 foot
> runway aboard a Vincent (shows how long ago that was<g>).
>
You're right - too early for me :)
In the '70's all jap bikes came with crap tyres and the first thing
was to put Avon Roadrunners on. At least you could then cross white
lines and drains in the wet :)
I was being Coy - the Blackbird actually does just under 190mph and
will cruise happily two-up at 170+...
--
Regards,
Danny
http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service)
http://www.malabargold.co.uk (UK/European online ordering for Malabar
Gold blend)
swap Z for above characters in email address to reply
> I forget that they require trailer brakes on one that size on your
> side of the pond - makes a bug difference.
Yes - every trailer over 750kg has to have overrun brakes (they
operate through the hitch as it's depressed during vehicle braking).
My trailer is a twin axle so it has twin brakes.
>
> On my old Triumph, 90+ and braking were pretty much mutually exclusive
> - too easy to break the tires loose and the least bump in the road was
> nasty. Only time I got in your speed range was on a 14,000 foot
> runway aboard a Vincent (shows how long ago that was<g>).
>
You're right - too early for me :)
In the '70's all jap bikes came with crap tyres and the first thing
was to put Avon Roadrunners on. At least you could then cross white
lines and drains in the wet :)
I was being Coy - the Blackbird actually does just under 190mph and
will cruise happily two-up at 170+...
--
Regards,
Danny
http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service)
http://www.malabargold.co.uk (UK/European online ordering for Malabar
Gold blend)
swap Z for above characters in email address to reply
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cherokee auto, towing and transmission coolers
Will Honea wrote:
> I forget that they require trailer brakes on one that size on your
> side of the pond - makes a bug difference.
Yes - every trailer over 750kg has to have overrun brakes (they
operate through the hitch as it's depressed during vehicle braking).
My trailer is a twin axle so it has twin brakes.
>
> On my old Triumph, 90+ and braking were pretty much mutually exclusive
> - too easy to break the tires loose and the least bump in the road was
> nasty. Only time I got in your speed range was on a 14,000 foot
> runway aboard a Vincent (shows how long ago that was<g>).
>
You're right - too early for me :)
In the '70's all jap bikes came with crap tyres and the first thing
was to put Avon Roadrunners on. At least you could then cross white
lines and drains in the wet :)
I was being Coy - the Blackbird actually does just under 190mph and
will cruise happily two-up at 170+...
--
Regards,
Danny
http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service)
http://www.malabargold.co.uk (UK/European online ordering for Malabar
Gold blend)
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> I forget that they require trailer brakes on one that size on your
> side of the pond - makes a bug difference.
Yes - every trailer over 750kg has to have overrun brakes (they
operate through the hitch as it's depressed during vehicle braking).
My trailer is a twin axle so it has twin brakes.
>
> On my old Triumph, 90+ and braking were pretty much mutually exclusive
> - too easy to break the tires loose and the least bump in the road was
> nasty. Only time I got in your speed range was on a 14,000 foot
> runway aboard a Vincent (shows how long ago that was<g>).
>
You're right - too early for me :)
In the '70's all jap bikes came with crap tyres and the first thing
was to put Avon Roadrunners on. At least you could then cross white
lines and drains in the wet :)
I was being Coy - the Blackbird actually does just under 190mph and
will cruise happily two-up at 170+...
--
Regards,
Danny
http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service)
http://www.malabargold.co.uk (UK/European online ordering for Malabar
Gold blend)
swap Z for above characters in email address to reply
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cherokee auto, towing and transmission coolers
Will Honea wrote:
> I forget that they require trailer brakes on one that size on your
> side of the pond - makes a bug difference.
Yes - every trailer over 750kg has to have overrun brakes (they
operate through the hitch as it's depressed during vehicle braking).
My trailer is a twin axle so it has twin brakes.
>
> On my old Triumph, 90+ and braking were pretty much mutually exclusive
> - too easy to break the tires loose and the least bump in the road was
> nasty. Only time I got in your speed range was on a 14,000 foot
> runway aboard a Vincent (shows how long ago that was<g>).
>
You're right - too early for me :)
In the '70's all jap bikes came with crap tyres and the first thing
was to put Avon Roadrunners on. At least you could then cross white
lines and drains in the wet :)
I was being Coy - the Blackbird actually does just under 190mph and
will cruise happily two-up at 170+...
--
Regards,
Danny
http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service)
http://www.malabargold.co.uk (UK/European online ordering for Malabar
Gold blend)
swap Z for above characters in email address to reply
> I forget that they require trailer brakes on one that size on your
> side of the pond - makes a bug difference.
Yes - every trailer over 750kg has to have overrun brakes (they
operate through the hitch as it's depressed during vehicle braking).
My trailer is a twin axle so it has twin brakes.
>
> On my old Triumph, 90+ and braking were pretty much mutually exclusive
> - too easy to break the tires loose and the least bump in the road was
> nasty. Only time I got in your speed range was on a 14,000 foot
> runway aboard a Vincent (shows how long ago that was<g>).
>
You're right - too early for me :)
In the '70's all jap bikes came with crap tyres and the first thing
was to put Avon Roadrunners on. At least you could then cross white
lines and drains in the wet :)
I was being Coy - the Blackbird actually does just under 190mph and
will cruise happily two-up at 170+...
--
Regards,
Danny
http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service)
http://www.malabargold.co.uk (UK/European online ordering for Malabar
Gold blend)
swap Z for above characters in email address to reply
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