SnoMan

On Tue, 8 May 2007 23:56:30 -0400, "Spdloader"
<askforit@nospam.triad.rr.com> wrote:

>Try charging gas first, (hold can
>upright) you can tell it's moving if the can gets cold near the top. If it
>takes a while, like more than 15 minutes or so, flip the can upside down and
>hold for a few seconds at a time, charging with liquid, back and forth until
>the can is empty. You can feel the liquid inside sloshing, and you can tell
>when it's empty.


Sometime too if the hose is long enough you can put R134a can in a pan
of hot water while trying to draw vapor from it because as liquid
boils to gas in can it cools it a lot and when this happens the
pressure in can drops and slows things down a lot on charging. The
idea of flipping can as above is not a bad idea as I do it but limit
is to a few seconds or so at a time so you do not get a slug of liquid
in compressor.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

SnoMan

On Wed, 09 May 2007 03:33:01 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:

>I can't measure the high side, so I have to go on faith that if the low side
>is right, the high side will follow along properly.


The problem is though that you cannot really tell the rue state of
charge without seeing both sides at once. Using low side only is a
guesstimate at best.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

SnoMan

On Wed, 09 May 2007 03:33:01 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:

>I can't measure the high side, so I have to go on faith that if the low side
>is right, the high side will follow along properly.


The problem is though that you cannot really tell the rue state of
charge without seeing both sides at once. Using low side only is a
guesstimate at best.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

SnoMan

On Wed, 09 May 2007 03:33:01 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:

>I can't measure the high side, so I have to go on faith that if the low side
>is right, the high side will follow along properly.


The problem is though that you cannot really tell the rue state of
charge without seeing both sides at once. Using low side only is a
guesstimate at best.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

SnoMan

On Wed, 09 May 2007 03:33:01 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:

>I can't measure the high side, so I have to go on faith that if the low side
>is right, the high side will follow along properly.


The problem is though that you cannot really tell the rue state of
charge without seeing both sides at once. Using low side only is a
guesstimate at best.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

Jeff Strickland

"Earle Horton" <earle@angloburgues.usa> wrote in message
news:46414d85$0$31810$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.c om...
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:xlb0i.8410$Q96.4526@trnddc04...
>>
>> "Spdloader" <askforit@nospam.triad.rr.com> wrote in message
>> news:46413491$0$18845$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>> >
>> > "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
>> > news:1i90i.8227$HR1.3924@trnddc01...
>> >> The AC compressor clutch cycles on for about 2 seconds then off for
> about
>> >> 3 seconds then repeats. It never blows cold. It worked fine a few days
>> >> ago, so this is a sudden onset of symptoms.
>> >>
>> >> I have R134a. I also have a guage that plugs onto the Low Pressure
> Port.
>> >> The sad thing is that I've not used it for a few years and I forgot
> how.
>> >>
>> >> I have to connect either the guage or the fitting that connects to the
>> >> can of stuff, but I can not connect both at the same time. I think I
> have
>> >> to take a pressure reading to make sure it is low. My guage has GRN,
> BLU,
>> >> YEL, and RED sections. Green is 0 to 25psi, blue is 25 to 45, yellow
>> >> is
>> >> 45 to 46, and red is anything above 65, the guage limit is 200.
>> >>
>> >> I need to re-understand the directions.
>> >>
>> >> I _think_ I want the needle to be in the blue area or yellow area, but
> by
>> >> no means in the red or green areas. I have not checked yet, but I
> suspect
>> >> it currently is in the green area. Once I ensure that the pressure is
>> >> indeed low, then I can add a can of R134. One can should bring the
>> >> pressure to 45ish psi.
>> >>
>> >> I _think_ what is happening now is that my pressure is right on the
> line,
>> >> and when the compressor kicks in, the result is pressure drop below
>> >> the
>> >> threshold of the Low Pressure Switch, so the compressor kicks out.
>> >> This
>> >> causes the pressure to rise and satisfy the Low Pressure Switch, so
>> >> the
>> >> compressor kicks on again. The problem repeats from there, and the
>> >> compressor clutch kicks on and off due to activity of the Low Pressure
>> >> Switch.
>> >>
>> >> I've owned the vehicle for a year, and have done virtually nothing to
> it.
>> >> It has worked perfectly until today, when the AC elected to go
>> >> offline.
> I
>> >> have no reason to suspect a leak at this time, but if the can of r134
>> >> does not do the trick, then I'll need to take it somewhere for
>> >> service.
>> >>
>> >> All I can do to the AC system is put the stuff in, and I have to ask
>> >> to
>> >> be sure I have the process right.
>> >
>> > The short answer is; it's low on refrigerant Jeff.
>> > What vehicle is it?
>>
>> It's my '95 Bronco.
>>
>>
>>
>> > Does it have a sight glass?
>>
>> I don't know the answer to that one right now. I'll have to look when the
>> sun comes up ...
>> >
>>
>> Can it be low enough that the Low Pressure Switch kicks in and out,
> causing
>> the clutch to also kick in and out? I'd suppose that such a condition can
>> only last for a very narrow range of low pressure before the clutch kicks
>> out for the last time and refuses to kick in again until more juice is
>> added.
>>
> I am not myself familiar with Ford systems but according to the Mastercool
> manual there are Ford systems (FFOT, no idea what this means) that are
> supposed to cycle the clutch, but not as fast as you are reporting. This
> does appear to be a case of low refrigerant. Basically, these systems run
> until a reservoir is full of liquid refrigerant, and then rest until it is
> exhausted. Typical cycle times are 2-3 times per minute at low ambient
> temperatures up to continuous running at high ambient temperatures. Yours
> is cycling much faster than this and probably low on refrigerant.
>
> These Ford systems appear to be a little "different" in operation so maybe
> a
> Ford news group might be a good source.
>
> Although I recommend a full manifold gauge set, there are setups
> intermediate between what you have now and hi-low gauges. A few years
> back
> I got a low side coupler, hose, gauge, valve and can tap from J. C.
> Whitney
> pretty cheap. I have seen similar rigs at Autozone. This lets you view
> the
> low side while filling at the same time. It doesn't show the high side,
> but
> it is a lot better than filling "blind".
>
> Earle


What I'm using now is a hose that has a coupling that one can either thread
in the guage or a can of juice. I've only used it once, and I had the book
close by. It was a pain in the *** to switch back and forth from the guage
to the can. I've not used my charging equipment for several years, so I have
trouble spending even more money. I would enjoy seeing the pressure and
emptying that can at the same time though ...

Jeff Strickland

"Earle Horton" <earle@angloburgues.usa> wrote in message
news:46414d85$0$31810$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.c om...
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:xlb0i.8410$Q96.4526@trnddc04...
>>
>> "Spdloader" <askforit@nospam.triad.rr.com> wrote in message
>> news:46413491$0$18845$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>> >
>> > "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
>> > news:1i90i.8227$HR1.3924@trnddc01...
>> >> The AC compressor clutch cycles on for about 2 seconds then off for
> about
>> >> 3 seconds then repeats. It never blows cold. It worked fine a few days
>> >> ago, so this is a sudden onset of symptoms.
>> >>
>> >> I have R134a. I also have a guage that plugs onto the Low Pressure
> Port.
>> >> The sad thing is that I've not used it for a few years and I forgot
> how.
>> >>
>> >> I have to connect either the guage or the fitting that connects to the
>> >> can of stuff, but I can not connect both at the same time. I think I
> have
>> >> to take a pressure reading to make sure it is low. My guage has GRN,
> BLU,
>> >> YEL, and RED sections. Green is 0 to 25psi, blue is 25 to 45, yellow
>> >> is
>> >> 45 to 46, and red is anything above 65, the guage limit is 200.
>> >>
>> >> I need to re-understand the directions.
>> >>
>> >> I _think_ I want the needle to be in the blue area or yellow area, but
> by
>> >> no means in the red or green areas. I have not checked yet, but I
> suspect
>> >> it currently is in the green area. Once I ensure that the pressure is
>> >> indeed low, then I can add a can of R134. One can should bring the
>> >> pressure to 45ish psi.
>> >>
>> >> I _think_ what is happening now is that my pressure is right on the
> line,
>> >> and when the compressor kicks in, the result is pressure drop below
>> >> the
>> >> threshold of the Low Pressure Switch, so the compressor kicks out.
>> >> This
>> >> causes the pressure to rise and satisfy the Low Pressure Switch, so
>> >> the
>> >> compressor kicks on again. The problem repeats from there, and the
>> >> compressor clutch kicks on and off due to activity of the Low Pressure
>> >> Switch.
>> >>
>> >> I've owned the vehicle for a year, and have done virtually nothing to
> it.
>> >> It has worked perfectly until today, when the AC elected to go
>> >> offline.
> I
>> >> have no reason to suspect a leak at this time, but if the can of r134
>> >> does not do the trick, then I'll need to take it somewhere for
>> >> service.
>> >>
>> >> All I can do to the AC system is put the stuff in, and I have to ask
>> >> to
>> >> be sure I have the process right.
>> >
>> > The short answer is; it's low on refrigerant Jeff.
>> > What vehicle is it?
>>
>> It's my '95 Bronco.
>>
>>
>>
>> > Does it have a sight glass?
>>
>> I don't know the answer to that one right now. I'll have to look when the
>> sun comes up ...
>> >
>>
>> Can it be low enough that the Low Pressure Switch kicks in and out,
> causing
>> the clutch to also kick in and out? I'd suppose that such a condition can
>> only last for a very narrow range of low pressure before the clutch kicks
>> out for the last time and refuses to kick in again until more juice is
>> added.
>>
> I am not myself familiar with Ford systems but according to the Mastercool
> manual there are Ford systems (FFOT, no idea what this means) that are
> supposed to cycle the clutch, but not as fast as you are reporting. This
> does appear to be a case of low refrigerant. Basically, these systems run
> until a reservoir is full of liquid refrigerant, and then rest until it is
> exhausted. Typical cycle times are 2-3 times per minute at low ambient
> temperatures up to continuous running at high ambient temperatures. Yours
> is cycling much faster than this and probably low on refrigerant.
>
> These Ford systems appear to be a little "different" in operation so maybe
> a
> Ford news group might be a good source.
>
> Although I recommend a full manifold gauge set, there are setups
> intermediate between what you have now and hi-low gauges. A few years
> back
> I got a low side coupler, hose, gauge, valve and can tap from J. C.
> Whitney
> pretty cheap. I have seen similar rigs at Autozone. This lets you view
> the
> low side while filling at the same time. It doesn't show the high side,
> but
> it is a lot better than filling "blind".
>
> Earle


What I'm using now is a hose that has a coupling that one can either thread
in the guage or a can of juice. I've only used it once, and I had the book
close by. It was a pain in the *** to switch back and forth from the guage
to the can. I've not used my charging equipment for several years, so I have
trouble spending even more money. I would enjoy seeing the pressure and
emptying that can at the same time though ...

Jeff Strickland

"Earle Horton" <earle@angloburgues.usa> wrote in message
news:46414d85$0$31810$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.c om...
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:xlb0i.8410$Q96.4526@trnddc04...
>>
>> "Spdloader" <askforit@nospam.triad.rr.com> wrote in message
>> news:46413491$0$18845$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>> >
>> > "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
>> > news:1i90i.8227$HR1.3924@trnddc01...
>> >> The AC compressor clutch cycles on for about 2 seconds then off for
> about
>> >> 3 seconds then repeats. It never blows cold. It worked fine a few days
>> >> ago, so this is a sudden onset of symptoms.
>> >>
>> >> I have R134a. I also have a guage that plugs onto the Low Pressure
> Port.
>> >> The sad thing is that I've not used it for a few years and I forgot
> how.
>> >>
>> >> I have to connect either the guage or the fitting that connects to the
>> >> can of stuff, but I can not connect both at the same time. I think I
> have
>> >> to take a pressure reading to make sure it is low. My guage has GRN,
> BLU,
>> >> YEL, and RED sections. Green is 0 to 25psi, blue is 25 to 45, yellow
>> >> is
>> >> 45 to 46, and red is anything above 65, the guage limit is 200.
>> >>
>> >> I need to re-understand the directions.
>> >>
>> >> I _think_ I want the needle to be in the blue area or yellow area, but
> by
>> >> no means in the red or green areas. I have not checked yet, but I
> suspect
>> >> it currently is in the green area. Once I ensure that the pressure is
>> >> indeed low, then I can add a can of R134. One can should bring the
>> >> pressure to 45ish psi.
>> >>
>> >> I _think_ what is happening now is that my pressure is right on the
> line,
>> >> and when the compressor kicks in, the result is pressure drop below
>> >> the
>> >> threshold of the Low Pressure Switch, so the compressor kicks out.
>> >> This
>> >> causes the pressure to rise and satisfy the Low Pressure Switch, so
>> >> the
>> >> compressor kicks on again. The problem repeats from there, and the
>> >> compressor clutch kicks on and off due to activity of the Low Pressure
>> >> Switch.
>> >>
>> >> I've owned the vehicle for a year, and have done virtually nothing to
> it.
>> >> It has worked perfectly until today, when the AC elected to go
>> >> offline.
> I
>> >> have no reason to suspect a leak at this time, but if the can of r134
>> >> does not do the trick, then I'll need to take it somewhere for
>> >> service.
>> >>
>> >> All I can do to the AC system is put the stuff in, and I have to ask
>> >> to
>> >> be sure I have the process right.
>> >
>> > The short answer is; it's low on refrigerant Jeff.
>> > What vehicle is it?
>>
>> It's my '95 Bronco.
>>
>>
>>
>> > Does it have a sight glass?
>>
>> I don't know the answer to that one right now. I'll have to look when the
>> sun comes up ...
>> >
>>
>> Can it be low enough that the Low Pressure Switch kicks in and out,
> causing
>> the clutch to also kick in and out? I'd suppose that such a condition can
>> only last for a very narrow range of low pressure before the clutch kicks
>> out for the last time and refuses to kick in again until more juice is
>> added.
>>
> I am not myself familiar with Ford systems but according to the Mastercool
> manual there are Ford systems (FFOT, no idea what this means) that are
> supposed to cycle the clutch, but not as fast as you are reporting. This
> does appear to be a case of low refrigerant. Basically, these systems run
> until a reservoir is full of liquid refrigerant, and then rest until it is
> exhausted. Typical cycle times are 2-3 times per minute at low ambient
> temperatures up to continuous running at high ambient temperatures. Yours
> is cycling much faster than this and probably low on refrigerant.
>
> These Ford systems appear to be a little "different" in operation so maybe
> a
> Ford news group might be a good source.
>
> Although I recommend a full manifold gauge set, there are setups
> intermediate between what you have now and hi-low gauges. A few years
> back
> I got a low side coupler, hose, gauge, valve and can tap from J. C.
> Whitney
> pretty cheap. I have seen similar rigs at Autozone. This lets you view
> the
> low side while filling at the same time. It doesn't show the high side,
> but
> it is a lot better than filling "blind".
>
> Earle


What I'm using now is a hose that has a coupling that one can either thread
in the guage or a can of juice. I've only used it once, and I had the book
close by. It was a pain in the *** to switch back and forth from the guage
to the can. I've not used my charging equipment for several years, so I have
trouble spending even more money. I would enjoy seeing the pressure and
emptying that can at the same time though ...

Jeff Strickland

"Earle Horton" <earle@angloburgues.usa> wrote in message
news:46414d85$0$31810$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.c om...
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:xlb0i.8410$Q96.4526@trnddc04...
>>
>> "Spdloader" <askforit@nospam.triad.rr.com> wrote in message
>> news:46413491$0$18845$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>> >
>> > "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
>> > news:1i90i.8227$HR1.3924@trnddc01...
>> >> The AC compressor clutch cycles on for about 2 seconds then off for
> about
>> >> 3 seconds then repeats. It never blows cold. It worked fine a few days
>> >> ago, so this is a sudden onset of symptoms.
>> >>
>> >> I have R134a. I also have a guage that plugs onto the Low Pressure
> Port.
>> >> The sad thing is that I've not used it for a few years and I forgot
> how.
>> >>
>> >> I have to connect either the guage or the fitting that connects to the
>> >> can of stuff, but I can not connect both at the same time. I think I
> have
>> >> to take a pressure reading to make sure it is low. My guage has GRN,
> BLU,
>> >> YEL, and RED sections. Green is 0 to 25psi, blue is 25 to 45, yellow
>> >> is
>> >> 45 to 46, and red is anything above 65, the guage limit is 200.
>> >>
>> >> I need to re-understand the directions.
>> >>
>> >> I _think_ I want the needle to be in the blue area or yellow area, but
> by
>> >> no means in the red or green areas. I have not checked yet, but I
> suspect
>> >> it currently is in the green area. Once I ensure that the pressure is
>> >> indeed low, then I can add a can of R134. One can should bring the
>> >> pressure to 45ish psi.
>> >>
>> >> I _think_ what is happening now is that my pressure is right on the
> line,
>> >> and when the compressor kicks in, the result is pressure drop below
>> >> the
>> >> threshold of the Low Pressure Switch, so the compressor kicks out.
>> >> This
>> >> causes the pressure to rise and satisfy the Low Pressure Switch, so
>> >> the
>> >> compressor kicks on again. The problem repeats from there, and the
>> >> compressor clutch kicks on and off due to activity of the Low Pressure
>> >> Switch.
>> >>
>> >> I've owned the vehicle for a year, and have done virtually nothing to
> it.
>> >> It has worked perfectly until today, when the AC elected to go
>> >> offline.
> I
>> >> have no reason to suspect a leak at this time, but if the can of r134
>> >> does not do the trick, then I'll need to take it somewhere for
>> >> service.
>> >>
>> >> All I can do to the AC system is put the stuff in, and I have to ask
>> >> to
>> >> be sure I have the process right.
>> >
>> > The short answer is; it's low on refrigerant Jeff.
>> > What vehicle is it?
>>
>> It's my '95 Bronco.
>>
>>
>>
>> > Does it have a sight glass?
>>
>> I don't know the answer to that one right now. I'll have to look when the
>> sun comes up ...
>> >
>>
>> Can it be low enough that the Low Pressure Switch kicks in and out,
> causing
>> the clutch to also kick in and out? I'd suppose that such a condition can
>> only last for a very narrow range of low pressure before the clutch kicks
>> out for the last time and refuses to kick in again until more juice is
>> added.
>>
> I am not myself familiar with Ford systems but according to the Mastercool
> manual there are Ford systems (FFOT, no idea what this means) that are
> supposed to cycle the clutch, but not as fast as you are reporting. This
> does appear to be a case of low refrigerant. Basically, these systems run
> until a reservoir is full of liquid refrigerant, and then rest until it is
> exhausted. Typical cycle times are 2-3 times per minute at low ambient
> temperatures up to continuous running at high ambient temperatures. Yours
> is cycling much faster than this and probably low on refrigerant.
>
> These Ford systems appear to be a little "different" in operation so maybe
> a
> Ford news group might be a good source.
>
> Although I recommend a full manifold gauge set, there are setups
> intermediate between what you have now and hi-low gauges. A few years
> back
> I got a low side coupler, hose, gauge, valve and can tap from J. C.
> Whitney
> pretty cheap. I have seen similar rigs at Autozone. This lets you view
> the
> low side while filling at the same time. It doesn't show the high side,
> but
> it is a lot better than filling "blind".
>
> Earle


What I'm using now is a hose that has a coupling that one can either thread
in the guage or a can of juice. I've only used it once, and I had the book
close by. It was a pain in the *** to switch back and forth from the guage
to the can. I've not used my charging equipment for several years, so I have
trouble spending even more money. I would enjoy seeing the pressure and
emptying that can at the same time though ...

L.W. \(Bill\) Hughes III

In a class, we were allowed to shake it upright.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/


"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:jfe343pbhp4st4jp9fg0knd7gv865h1004@4ax.com
>
>
> Sometime too if the hose is long enough you can put R134a can in a pan
> of hot water while trying to draw vapor from it because as liquid
> boils to gas in can it cools it a lot and when this happens the
> pressure in can drops and slows things down a lot on charging. The
> idea of flipping can as above is not a bad idea as I do it but limit
> is to a few seconds or so at a time so you do not get a slug of liquid
> in compressor.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com