reconair

Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
that sometimes causes this problem?

Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> You are describing a dirty battery cable.
>
> I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> most likely the bad one, but...
>
> I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
>
> The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Daniel Paisley wrote:
> >
> > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan

reconair

Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
that sometimes causes this problem?

Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> You are describing a dirty battery cable.
>
> I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> most likely the bad one, but...
>
> I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
>
> The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Daniel Paisley wrote:
> >
> > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan

reconair

Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
that sometimes causes this problem?

Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> You are describing a dirty battery cable.
>
> I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> most likely the bad one, but...
>
> I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
>
> The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Daniel Paisley wrote:
> >
> > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan

Dave Milne

What's the real one on the 258 ? (the tj one is 117 amp - seems ok)

Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6391.8F69B90@sympatico.ca...
> He is lucky, Chrysler hasn't aborted the charging system yet on his 258,
> he still has a 'real' alternator.

Dave Milne

What's the real one on the 258 ? (the tj one is 117 amp - seems ok)

Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6391.8F69B90@sympatico.ca...
> He is lucky, Chrysler hasn't aborted the charging system yet on his 258,
> he still has a 'real' alternator.

Dave Milne

What's the real one on the 258 ? (the tj one is 117 amp - seems ok)

Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6391.8F69B90@sympatico.ca...
> He is lucky, Chrysler hasn't aborted the charging system yet on his 258,
> he still has a 'real' alternator.

Mike Romain

That one grounds the fuel pump in the 4.0 engine version. He still has
the carb engine with the mechanical pump.

Mike

reconair wrote:
>
> Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
> that sometimes causes this problem?
>
> Scott
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> > You are describing a dirty battery cable.
> >
> > I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> > block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> > that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> > most likely the bad one, but...
> >
> > I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> > check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> > alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
> >
> > The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> > the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> > battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Daniel Paisley wrote:
> > >
> > > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan

Mike Romain

That one grounds the fuel pump in the 4.0 engine version. He still has
the carb engine with the mechanical pump.

Mike

reconair wrote:
>
> Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
> that sometimes causes this problem?
>
> Scott
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> > You are describing a dirty battery cable.
> >
> > I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> > block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> > that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> > most likely the bad one, but...
> >
> > I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> > check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> > alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
> >
> > The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> > the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> > battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Daniel Paisley wrote:
> > >
> > > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan

Mike Romain

That one grounds the fuel pump in the 4.0 engine version. He still has
the carb engine with the mechanical pump.

Mike

reconair wrote:
>
> Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
> that sometimes causes this problem?
>
> Scott
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> > You are describing a dirty battery cable.
> >
> > I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> > block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> > that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> > most likely the bad one, but...
> >
> > I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> > check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> > alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
> >
> > The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> > the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> > battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Daniel Paisley wrote:
> > >
> > > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan

Mike Romain

They only put half the charging system in the 'cheap' round thing under
the hood they call an 'alternator' in the Chrysler YJ's and TJ's.

The rest they put into a $300.00 to $2000.00+ (depending on wrecker
source or new) computer under the dash.

On the AMC Jeeps, they used an 'all in one' alternator with a 'built in'
regulator.

Chrysler didn't like these units because it only costs $25.00 to get a
full rebuild kit for them including the bearing and they are dirt cheap
to buy. I recently got a 5 year warranty one for just over $100.00.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> What's the real one on the 258 ? (the tj one is 117 amp - seems ok)
>
> Dave Milne, Scotland
> '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41BC6391.8F69B90@sympatico.ca...
> > He is lucky, Chrysler hasn't aborted the charging system yet on his 258,
> > he still has a 'real' alternator.