Charging/Alternator ?
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Charging/Alternator ?
Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
that sometimes causes this problem?
Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> You are describing a dirty battery cable.
>
> I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> most likely the bad one, but...
>
> I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
>
> The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Daniel Paisley wrote:
> >
> > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan
that sometimes causes this problem?
Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> You are describing a dirty battery cable.
>
> I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> most likely the bad one, but...
>
> I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
>
> The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Daniel Paisley wrote:
> >
> > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Charging/Alternator ?
Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
that sometimes causes this problem?
Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> You are describing a dirty battery cable.
>
> I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> most likely the bad one, but...
>
> I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
>
> The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Daniel Paisley wrote:
> >
> > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan
that sometimes causes this problem?
Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> You are describing a dirty battery cable.
>
> I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> most likely the bad one, but...
>
> I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
>
> The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Daniel Paisley wrote:
> >
> > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Charging/Alternator ?
Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
that sometimes causes this problem?
Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> You are describing a dirty battery cable.
>
> I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> most likely the bad one, but...
>
> I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
>
> The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Daniel Paisley wrote:
> >
> > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan
that sometimes causes this problem?
Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> You are describing a dirty battery cable.
>
> I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> most likely the bad one, but...
>
> I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
>
> The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Daniel Paisley wrote:
> >
> > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Charging/Alternator ?
What's the real one on the 258 ? (the tj one is 117 amp - seems ok)
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6391.8F69B90@sympatico.ca...
> He is lucky, Chrysler hasn't aborted the charging system yet on his 258,
> he still has a 'real' alternator.
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6391.8F69B90@sympatico.ca...
> He is lucky, Chrysler hasn't aborted the charging system yet on his 258,
> he still has a 'real' alternator.
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Charging/Alternator ?
What's the real one on the 258 ? (the tj one is 117 amp - seems ok)
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6391.8F69B90@sympatico.ca...
> He is lucky, Chrysler hasn't aborted the charging system yet on his 258,
> he still has a 'real' alternator.
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6391.8F69B90@sympatico.ca...
> He is lucky, Chrysler hasn't aborted the charging system yet on his 258,
> he still has a 'real' alternator.
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Charging/Alternator ?
What's the real one on the 258 ? (the tj one is 117 amp - seems ok)
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6391.8F69B90@sympatico.ca...
> He is lucky, Chrysler hasn't aborted the charging system yet on his 258,
> he still has a 'real' alternator.
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41BC6391.8F69B90@sympatico.ca...
> He is lucky, Chrysler hasn't aborted the charging system yet on his 258,
> he still has a 'real' alternator.
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Charging/Alternator ?
That one grounds the fuel pump in the 4.0 engine version. He still has
the carb engine with the mechanical pump.
Mike
reconair wrote:
>
> Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
> that sometimes causes this problem?
>
> Scott
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> > You are describing a dirty battery cable.
> >
> > I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> > block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> > that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> > most likely the bad one, but...
> >
> > I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> > check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> > alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
> >
> > The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> > the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> > battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Daniel Paisley wrote:
> > >
> > > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan
the carb engine with the mechanical pump.
Mike
reconair wrote:
>
> Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
> that sometimes causes this problem?
>
> Scott
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> > You are describing a dirty battery cable.
> >
> > I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> > block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> > that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> > most likely the bad one, but...
> >
> > I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> > check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> > alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
> >
> > The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> > the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> > battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Daniel Paisley wrote:
> > >
> > > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Charging/Alternator ?
That one grounds the fuel pump in the 4.0 engine version. He still has
the carb engine with the mechanical pump.
Mike
reconair wrote:
>
> Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
> that sometimes causes this problem?
>
> Scott
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> > You are describing a dirty battery cable.
> >
> > I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> > block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> > that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> > most likely the bad one, but...
> >
> > I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> > check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> > alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
> >
> > The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> > the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> > battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Daniel Paisley wrote:
> > >
> > > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan
the carb engine with the mechanical pump.
Mike
reconair wrote:
>
> Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
> that sometimes causes this problem?
>
> Scott
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> > You are describing a dirty battery cable.
> >
> > I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> > block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> > that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> > most likely the bad one, but...
> >
> > I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> > check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> > alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
> >
> > The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> > the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> > battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Daniel Paisley wrote:
> > >
> > > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Charging/Alternator ?
That one grounds the fuel pump in the 4.0 engine version. He still has
the carb engine with the mechanical pump.
Mike
reconair wrote:
>
> Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
> that sometimes causes this problem?
>
> Scott
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> > You are describing a dirty battery cable.
> >
> > I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> > block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> > that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> > most likely the bad one, but...
> >
> > I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> > check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> > alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
> >
> > The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> > the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> > battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Daniel Paisley wrote:
> > >
> > > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan
the carb engine with the mechanical pump.
Mike
reconair wrote:
>
> Mike, isn't there also a wire ground around the emergency brake pedal mount
> that sometimes causes this problem?
>
> Scott
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41BC6300.70EC0A0F@sympatico.ca...
> > You are describing a dirty battery cable.
> >
> > I would be checking the ground side first, the cable goes to the engine
> > block and gets corroded there, then the next cable is a wire mesh one
> > that goes from the rear of the engine head to the firewall, this one is
> > most likely the bad one, but...
> >
> > I also have seen the alternator bracket itself lose the ground. You can
> > check this by using a booster cable from the battery negative to the
> > alternator case. If the volts stabilize you have found it.
> >
> > The other one that will cause those symptoms is a dirty connection on
> > the starter solenoid on the firewall. The alternator wire and positive
> > battery cable connect there and get dirty really easy.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Daniel Paisley wrote:
> > >
> > > '89 YJ, 258. I've replaced the belts, battery, and alternator. The
> > > voltmeter stays in the 'red' unless I hold my foot on the accelerator.
> > > Once the engine warms up (temp gauge @110+?), voltmeter stays close to
> > > 14. I know it's not a bad voltmeter reading because the lights get dim
> > > when idling. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Charging/Alternator ?
They only put half the charging system in the 'cheap' round thing under
the hood they call an 'alternator' in the Chrysler YJ's and TJ's.
The rest they put into a $300.00 to $2000.00+ (depending on wrecker
source or new) computer under the dash.
On the AMC Jeeps, they used an 'all in one' alternator with a 'built in'
regulator.
Chrysler didn't like these units because it only costs $25.00 to get a
full rebuild kit for them including the bearing and they are dirt cheap
to buy. I recently got a 5 year warranty one for just over $100.00.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dave Milne wrote:
>
> What's the real one on the 258 ? (the tj one is 117 amp - seems ok)
>
> Dave Milne, Scotland
> '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41BC6391.8F69B90@sympatico.ca...
> > He is lucky, Chrysler hasn't aborted the charging system yet on his 258,
> > he still has a 'real' alternator.
the hood they call an 'alternator' in the Chrysler YJ's and TJ's.
The rest they put into a $300.00 to $2000.00+ (depending on wrecker
source or new) computer under the dash.
On the AMC Jeeps, they used an 'all in one' alternator with a 'built in'
regulator.
Chrysler didn't like these units because it only costs $25.00 to get a
full rebuild kit for them including the bearing and they are dirt cheap
to buy. I recently got a 5 year warranty one for just over $100.00.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dave Milne wrote:
>
> What's the real one on the 258 ? (the tj one is 117 amp - seems ok)
>
> Dave Milne, Scotland
> '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41BC6391.8F69B90@sympatico.ca...
> > He is lucky, Chrysler hasn't aborted the charging system yet on his 258,
> > he still has a 'real' alternator.