CB Radio or PRS
Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks for the reply. I had a lot of noise issues. After reinstalling the
damn thing about 10 times over a period of 5 days, I have now found that
the best power source (with least rf interference) is the head beam power
lead before it goes into the head lamp switch. I have put the negative on
the firewall inside the dash. Additionally, grounded the chassis of the
radio to the firewall as well (separately). Now the noise level is
minimal. Although, there is still some alternator whining. I have got the
filters, which I will be putting on this weekend. It seems to be working a
lot better now. It was a big trial and error. On the plus side, I can now
take the dashboard apart in less than five minutes!
As for antenna location, anywhere front of the driver seat caused a lot of
problems. I had now placed it just above the rear left brake light. My
logic was this way it was farthest from the AM/FM radio antenna. It seems
to be working. I am going to put a grounding strap on the antenna mount,
just waiting for it to arrive in the mail.
TW
"Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote in message
news:c63ntl$am5$1@news.utelfla.com...
> Hi guys,
> There's another reason that the bumper's not an ideal place for an
> antenna. The antenna's running up, in close proximity to a parallel
sheet
> of metal. That affects the radiation characteristics of the antenna very
> badly and it's mounted about as low as you could possibly get it.
Although
> better, mounting a vertical antenna on a vertical sheet of metal isn't
the
> ideal either.
> The ideal mounting for a vertical antenna's always two-fold. First,
the
> higher the better. Second, on the largest horizontal ground plane. This
> means that you'd like to put it squarely in the center of a metal roof.
> There's many issues to consider with a Jeep like beating up the antenna
on
> low-hanging limbs and the lack of a sheet metal roof. If you have a roof
> rack, you could mount it there and it'd probably be best so long as you
have
> a good electrical ground back to the body. You could also mount it in
the
> center of a piece of sheet metal up there which would be even better. If
> you just have a fiberglass top, you could bond a piece of sheet metal on
top
> of or underneath the roof and put the antenna up there. Otherwise, the
> easiest and most efficient, albeit ugliest, position is in the center of
the
> hood; with a magnetic mount perhaps.
> The other thing I heard mentioned was that the transmission line (coax)
> needed to be "X" long and coiled up. I've always wondered why CB'ers
insist
> on the fixed length coax, coiled up. It's an impedance thing that deals
> with wavelengths and I won't go into the technical details or basic rules
of
> thumb. Take a look at the following site for a little more info.
> http://www.1stopelectronics.com/cb-antenna-101.htm
> http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs/BigBear.htm
>
> --
>
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
damn thing about 10 times over a period of 5 days, I have now found that
the best power source (with least rf interference) is the head beam power
lead before it goes into the head lamp switch. I have put the negative on
the firewall inside the dash. Additionally, grounded the chassis of the
radio to the firewall as well (separately). Now the noise level is
minimal. Although, there is still some alternator whining. I have got the
filters, which I will be putting on this weekend. It seems to be working a
lot better now. It was a big trial and error. On the plus side, I can now
take the dashboard apart in less than five minutes!
As for antenna location, anywhere front of the driver seat caused a lot of
problems. I had now placed it just above the rear left brake light. My
logic was this way it was farthest from the AM/FM radio antenna. It seems
to be working. I am going to put a grounding strap on the antenna mount,
just waiting for it to arrive in the mail.
TW
"Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote in message
news:c63ntl$am5$1@news.utelfla.com...
> Hi guys,
> There's another reason that the bumper's not an ideal place for an
> antenna. The antenna's running up, in close proximity to a parallel
sheet
> of metal. That affects the radiation characteristics of the antenna very
> badly and it's mounted about as low as you could possibly get it.
Although
> better, mounting a vertical antenna on a vertical sheet of metal isn't
the
> ideal either.
> The ideal mounting for a vertical antenna's always two-fold. First,
the
> higher the better. Second, on the largest horizontal ground plane. This
> means that you'd like to put it squarely in the center of a metal roof.
> There's many issues to consider with a Jeep like beating up the antenna
on
> low-hanging limbs and the lack of a sheet metal roof. If you have a roof
> rack, you could mount it there and it'd probably be best so long as you
have
> a good electrical ground back to the body. You could also mount it in
the
> center of a piece of sheet metal up there which would be even better. If
> you just have a fiberglass top, you could bond a piece of sheet metal on
top
> of or underneath the roof and put the antenna up there. Otherwise, the
> easiest and most efficient, albeit ugliest, position is in the center of
the
> hood; with a magnetic mount perhaps.
> The other thing I heard mentioned was that the transmission line (coax)
> needed to be "X" long and coiled up. I've always wondered why CB'ers
insist
> on the fixed length coax, coiled up. It's an impedance thing that deals
> with wavelengths and I won't go into the technical details or basic rules
of
> thumb. Take a look at the following site for a little more info.
> http://www.1stopelectronics.com/cb-antenna-101.htm
> http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs/BigBear.htm
>
> --
>
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
Guest
Posts: n/a
I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source
(with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
the power lead directly to the battery?
TW wrote:
> Thanks for the reply. I had a lot of noise issues. After reinstalling the
> damn thing about 10 times over a period of 5 days, I have now found that
> the best power source (with least rf interference) is the head beam power
> lead before it goes into the head lamp switch. I have put the negative on
> the firewall inside the dash. Additionally, grounded the chassis of the
> radio to the firewall as well (separately). Now the noise level is
> minimal. Although, there is still some alternator whining. I have got the
> filters, which I will be putting on this weekend. It seems to be working a
> lot better now. It was a big trial and error. On the plus side, I can now
> take the dashboard apart in less than five minutes!
>
> As for antenna location, anywhere front of the driver seat caused a lot of
> problems. I had now placed it just above the rear left brake light. My
> logic was this way it was farthest from the AM/FM radio antenna. It seems
> to be working. I am going to put a grounding strap on the antenna mount,
> just waiting for it to arrive in the mail.
>
> TW
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
(with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
the power lead directly to the battery?
TW wrote:
> Thanks for the reply. I had a lot of noise issues. After reinstalling the
> damn thing about 10 times over a period of 5 days, I have now found that
> the best power source (with least rf interference) is the head beam power
> lead before it goes into the head lamp switch. I have put the negative on
> the firewall inside the dash. Additionally, grounded the chassis of the
> radio to the firewall as well (separately). Now the noise level is
> minimal. Although, there is still some alternator whining. I have got the
> filters, which I will be putting on this weekend. It seems to be working a
> lot better now. It was a big trial and error. On the plus side, I can now
> take the dashboard apart in less than five minutes!
>
> As for antenna location, anywhere front of the driver seat caused a lot of
> problems. I had now placed it just above the rear left brake light. My
> logic was this way it was farthest from the AM/FM radio antenna. It seems
> to be working. I am going to put a grounding strap on the antenna mount,
> just waiting for it to arrive in the mail.
>
> TW
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
Guest
Posts: n/a
I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source
(with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
the power lead directly to the battery?
TW wrote:
> Thanks for the reply. I had a lot of noise issues. After reinstalling the
> damn thing about 10 times over a period of 5 days, I have now found that
> the best power source (with least rf interference) is the head beam power
> lead before it goes into the head lamp switch. I have put the negative on
> the firewall inside the dash. Additionally, grounded the chassis of the
> radio to the firewall as well (separately). Now the noise level is
> minimal. Although, there is still some alternator whining. I have got the
> filters, which I will be putting on this weekend. It seems to be working a
> lot better now. It was a big trial and error. On the plus side, I can now
> take the dashboard apart in less than five minutes!
>
> As for antenna location, anywhere front of the driver seat caused a lot of
> problems. I had now placed it just above the rear left brake light. My
> logic was this way it was farthest from the AM/FM radio antenna. It seems
> to be working. I am going to put a grounding strap on the antenna mount,
> just waiting for it to arrive in the mail.
>
> TW
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
(with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
the power lead directly to the battery?
TW wrote:
> Thanks for the reply. I had a lot of noise issues. After reinstalling the
> damn thing about 10 times over a period of 5 days, I have now found that
> the best power source (with least rf interference) is the head beam power
> lead before it goes into the head lamp switch. I have put the negative on
> the firewall inside the dash. Additionally, grounded the chassis of the
> radio to the firewall as well (separately). Now the noise level is
> minimal. Although, there is still some alternator whining. I have got the
> filters, which I will be putting on this weekend. It seems to be working a
> lot better now. It was a big trial and error. On the plus side, I can now
> take the dashboard apart in less than five minutes!
>
> As for antenna location, anywhere front of the driver seat caused a lot of
> problems. I had now placed it just above the rear left brake light. My
> logic was this way it was farthest from the AM/FM radio antenna. It seems
> to be working. I am going to put a grounding strap on the antenna mount,
> just waiting for it to arrive in the mail.
>
> TW
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
Guest
Posts: n/a
I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source
(with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
the power lead directly to the battery?
TW wrote:
> Thanks for the reply. I had a lot of noise issues. After reinstalling the
> damn thing about 10 times over a period of 5 days, I have now found that
> the best power source (with least rf interference) is the head beam power
> lead before it goes into the head lamp switch. I have put the negative on
> the firewall inside the dash. Additionally, grounded the chassis of the
> radio to the firewall as well (separately). Now the noise level is
> minimal. Although, there is still some alternator whining. I have got the
> filters, which I will be putting on this weekend. It seems to be working a
> lot better now. It was a big trial and error. On the plus side, I can now
> take the dashboard apart in less than five minutes!
>
> As for antenna location, anywhere front of the driver seat caused a lot of
> problems. I had now placed it just above the rear left brake light. My
> logic was this way it was farthest from the AM/FM radio antenna. It seems
> to be working. I am going to put a grounding strap on the antenna mount,
> just waiting for it to arrive in the mail.
>
> TW
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
(with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
the power lead directly to the battery?
TW wrote:
> Thanks for the reply. I had a lot of noise issues. After reinstalling the
> damn thing about 10 times over a period of 5 days, I have now found that
> the best power source (with least rf interference) is the head beam power
> lead before it goes into the head lamp switch. I have put the negative on
> the firewall inside the dash. Additionally, grounded the chassis of the
> radio to the firewall as well (separately). Now the noise level is
> minimal. Although, there is still some alternator whining. I have got the
> filters, which I will be putting on this weekend. It seems to be working a
> lot better now. It was a big trial and error. On the plus side, I can now
> take the dashboard apart in less than five minutes!
>
> As for antenna location, anywhere front of the driver seat caused a lot of
> problems. I had now placed it just above the rear left brake light. My
> logic was this way it was farthest from the AM/FM radio antenna. It seems
> to be working. I am going to put a grounding strap on the antenna mount,
> just waiting for it to arrive in the mail.
>
> TW
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
Guest
Posts: n/a
I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source
(with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
the power lead directly to the battery?
TW wrote:
> Thanks for the reply. I had a lot of noise issues. After reinstalling the
> damn thing about 10 times over a period of 5 days, I have now found that
> the best power source (with least rf interference) is the head beam power
> lead before it goes into the head lamp switch. I have put the negative on
> the firewall inside the dash. Additionally, grounded the chassis of the
> radio to the firewall as well (separately). Now the noise level is
> minimal. Although, there is still some alternator whining. I have got the
> filters, which I will be putting on this weekend. It seems to be working a
> lot better now. It was a big trial and error. On the plus side, I can now
> take the dashboard apart in less than five minutes!
>
> As for antenna location, anywhere front of the driver seat caused a lot of
> problems. I had now placed it just above the rear left brake light. My
> logic was this way it was farthest from the AM/FM radio antenna. It seems
> to be working. I am going to put a grounding strap on the antenna mount,
> just waiting for it to arrive in the mail.
>
> TW
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
(with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
the power lead directly to the battery?
TW wrote:
> Thanks for the reply. I had a lot of noise issues. After reinstalling the
> damn thing about 10 times over a period of 5 days, I have now found that
> the best power source (with least rf interference) is the head beam power
> lead before it goes into the head lamp switch. I have put the negative on
> the firewall inside the dash. Additionally, grounded the chassis of the
> radio to the firewall as well (separately). Now the noise level is
> minimal. Although, there is still some alternator whining. I have got the
> filters, which I will be putting on this weekend. It seems to be working a
> lot better now. It was a big trial and error. On the plus side, I can now
> take the dashboard apart in less than five minutes!
>
> As for antenna location, anywhere front of the driver seat caused a lot of
> problems. I had now placed it just above the rear left brake light. My
> logic was this way it was farthest from the AM/FM radio antenna. It seems
> to be working. I am going to put a grounding strap on the antenna mount,
> just waiting for it to arrive in the mail.
>
> TW
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
Guest
Posts: n/a
Well, thats what I did the first time I installed it. There was so much
noise and interference that I could hardly make out anything. I then tried
different sources till I found the head beam power cable. Now I have no
interference from the turn signals, horn, lights, fuel pump or wiper motor.
I do have very slight alternator whine, but its acceptable and will go away
with the filter I am fixing tomorrow.
I know hooking up this way is not advised. But this is the only way CB has
worked in my RHD export TJ. Our computer unit, battery and distribution
panels etc.. are all on the left hand side (either side of the firewall).
My power cable is now on the right side towards the steering column inside
the cab.
I am thinking of it as another Jeep thing.
TW
"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:QhPhc.549$If.133@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com.. .
> I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source
> (with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
> noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
> the power lead directly to the battery?
>
>
noise and interference that I could hardly make out anything. I then tried
different sources till I found the head beam power cable. Now I have no
interference from the turn signals, horn, lights, fuel pump or wiper motor.
I do have very slight alternator whine, but its acceptable and will go away
with the filter I am fixing tomorrow.
I know hooking up this way is not advised. But this is the only way CB has
worked in my RHD export TJ. Our computer unit, battery and distribution
panels etc.. are all on the left hand side (either side of the firewall).
My power cable is now on the right side towards the steering column inside
the cab.
I am thinking of it as another Jeep thing.
TW
"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:QhPhc.549$If.133@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com.. .
> I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source
> (with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
> noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
> the power lead directly to the battery?
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Well, thats what I did the first time I installed it. There was so much
noise and interference that I could hardly make out anything. I then tried
different sources till I found the head beam power cable. Now I have no
interference from the turn signals, horn, lights, fuel pump or wiper motor.
I do have very slight alternator whine, but its acceptable and will go away
with the filter I am fixing tomorrow.
I know hooking up this way is not advised. But this is the only way CB has
worked in my RHD export TJ. Our computer unit, battery and distribution
panels etc.. are all on the left hand side (either side of the firewall).
My power cable is now on the right side towards the steering column inside
the cab.
I am thinking of it as another Jeep thing.
TW
"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:QhPhc.549$If.133@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com.. .
> I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source
> (with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
> noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
> the power lead directly to the battery?
>
>
noise and interference that I could hardly make out anything. I then tried
different sources till I found the head beam power cable. Now I have no
interference from the turn signals, horn, lights, fuel pump or wiper motor.
I do have very slight alternator whine, but its acceptable and will go away
with the filter I am fixing tomorrow.
I know hooking up this way is not advised. But this is the only way CB has
worked in my RHD export TJ. Our computer unit, battery and distribution
panels etc.. are all on the left hand side (either side of the firewall).
My power cable is now on the right side towards the steering column inside
the cab.
I am thinking of it as another Jeep thing.
TW
"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:QhPhc.549$If.133@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com.. .
> I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source
> (with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
> noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
> the power lead directly to the battery?
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Well, thats what I did the first time I installed it. There was so much
noise and interference that I could hardly make out anything. I then tried
different sources till I found the head beam power cable. Now I have no
interference from the turn signals, horn, lights, fuel pump or wiper motor.
I do have very slight alternator whine, but its acceptable and will go away
with the filter I am fixing tomorrow.
I know hooking up this way is not advised. But this is the only way CB has
worked in my RHD export TJ. Our computer unit, battery and distribution
panels etc.. are all on the left hand side (either side of the firewall).
My power cable is now on the right side towards the steering column inside
the cab.
I am thinking of it as another Jeep thing.
TW
"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:QhPhc.549$If.133@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com.. .
> I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source
> (with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
> noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
> the power lead directly to the battery?
>
>
noise and interference that I could hardly make out anything. I then tried
different sources till I found the head beam power cable. Now I have no
interference from the turn signals, horn, lights, fuel pump or wiper motor.
I do have very slight alternator whine, but its acceptable and will go away
with the filter I am fixing tomorrow.
I know hooking up this way is not advised. But this is the only way CB has
worked in my RHD export TJ. Our computer unit, battery and distribution
panels etc.. are all on the left hand side (either side of the firewall).
My power cable is now on the right side towards the steering column inside
the cab.
I am thinking of it as another Jeep thing.
TW
"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:QhPhc.549$If.133@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com.. .
> I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source
> (with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
> noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
> the power lead directly to the battery?
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Well, thats what I did the first time I installed it. There was so much
noise and interference that I could hardly make out anything. I then tried
different sources till I found the head beam power cable. Now I have no
interference from the turn signals, horn, lights, fuel pump or wiper motor.
I do have very slight alternator whine, but its acceptable and will go away
with the filter I am fixing tomorrow.
I know hooking up this way is not advised. But this is the only way CB has
worked in my RHD export TJ. Our computer unit, battery and distribution
panels etc.. are all on the left hand side (either side of the firewall).
My power cable is now on the right side towards the steering column inside
the cab.
I am thinking of it as another Jeep thing.
TW
"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:QhPhc.549$If.133@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com.. .
> I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source
> (with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
> noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
> the power lead directly to the battery?
>
>
noise and interference that I could hardly make out anything. I then tried
different sources till I found the head beam power cable. Now I have no
interference from the turn signals, horn, lights, fuel pump or wiper motor.
I do have very slight alternator whine, but its acceptable and will go away
with the filter I am fixing tomorrow.
I know hooking up this way is not advised. But this is the only way CB has
worked in my RHD export TJ. Our computer unit, battery and distribution
panels etc.. are all on the left hand side (either side of the firewall).
My power cable is now on the right side towards the steering column inside
the cab.
I am thinking of it as another Jeep thing.
TW
"twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
news:QhPhc.549$If.133@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com.. .
> I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source
> (with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
> noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
> the power lead directly to the battery?
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
:) My first thought is that you routed your power leads past some
offensive piece of electronics. One way to test it would be to drape
your power lead from the back of the radio, out the door, onto the
garage floor and around front to the battery, away from all Jeep
electronics. If you still have interference, I'd be surprised. That way
you can determine if it is just a cable routing issue, or not. Do the
same with the anntenna coax. Keep us posted. Sorry for being so late in
the game, here.
TW wrote:
> Well, thats what I did the first time I installed it. There was so much
> noise and interference that I could hardly make out anything. I then tried
> different sources till I found the head beam power cable. Now I have no
> interference from the turn signals, horn, lights, fuel pump or wiper motor.
> I do have very slight alternator whine, but its acceptable and will go away
> with the filter I am fixing tomorrow.
>
> I know hooking up this way is not advised. But this is the only way CB has
> worked in my RHD export TJ. Our computer unit, battery and distribution
> panels etc.. are all on the left hand side (either side of the firewall).
> My power cable is now on the right side towards the steering column inside
> the cab.
>
> I am thinking of it as another Jeep thing.
> TW
>
>
> "twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
> news:QhPhc.549$If.133@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com.. .
>
>>I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source
>>(with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
>>noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
>>the power lead directly to the battery?
>>
>>
>
>
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________
offensive piece of electronics. One way to test it would be to drape
your power lead from the back of the radio, out the door, onto the
garage floor and around front to the battery, away from all Jeep
electronics. If you still have interference, I'd be surprised. That way
you can determine if it is just a cable routing issue, or not. Do the
same with the anntenna coax. Keep us posted. Sorry for being so late in
the game, here.
TW wrote:
> Well, thats what I did the first time I installed it. There was so much
> noise and interference that I could hardly make out anything. I then tried
> different sources till I found the head beam power cable. Now I have no
> interference from the turn signals, horn, lights, fuel pump or wiper motor.
> I do have very slight alternator whine, but its acceptable and will go away
> with the filter I am fixing tomorrow.
>
> I know hooking up this way is not advised. But this is the only way CB has
> worked in my RHD export TJ. Our computer unit, battery and distribution
> panels etc.. are all on the left hand side (either side of the firewall).
> My power cable is now on the right side towards the steering column inside
> the cab.
>
> I am thinking of it as another Jeep thing.
> TW
>
>
> "twaldron" <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message
> news:QhPhc.549$If.133@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com.. .
>
>>I missed part of the thread. Are you saying that "the best power source
>>(with least rf interference) is the head beam power lead..." has less
>>noise than running straight to the battery?? Why are you not running
>>the power lead directly to the battery?
>>
>>
>
>
--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry
Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940
Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________


