Then you haven't tested, but one. ;-) It's a rubber like diaphragm,
and needs to be replace about as often as wiper blades. Test for leaks
by pulling the vacuum hose, collapsing it and holding your finger over
the hole.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> You know Bill, I have only once since the late 60's ever seen a dead
> choke pull off...
>
> Maybe my clients or friend have been lucky, but to me that is an unusual
> part to go bad.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

I guess I have been lucky, because I test every one by sucking on the
hose.

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Then you haven't tested, but one. ;-) It's a rubber like diaphragm,
> and needs to be replace about as often as wiper blades. Test for leaks
> by pulling the vacuum hose, collapsing it and holding your finger over
> the hole.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > You know Bill, I have only once since the late 60's ever seen a dead
> > choke pull off...
> >
> > Maybe my clients or friend have been lucky, but to me that is an unusual
> > part to go bad.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

soooooo ... did you find the loose intake manifold gasket yet? the late
valve timing? the holes in your vacuum lines? etc. ? ;-)

wkearney99 wrote:
> Does a carb rebuild kit include this? Or is it a different, additional kit? Is
> the factory kit well documented? Or is there a 3rd party kit that's better?
>
> I'm not unwilling to take stab at rebuilding this beast (I've done quadrajets
> before). But I'm concerned the current carb is sufficiently out of whack as to
> have something wrong with it that a rebuild kit isn't going to address. Like
> some molded part of the housing being out of whack or something.
>
> Thanks,
> -Bill Kearney
>
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3F1DAC88.FC9C2714@***.net...
>
>>Hi Bill,
>> Bad needle valve, put a twenty dollar kit in it. Just take it slow,
>>work in a well ventilated, lit area, on a table and an old towel so the
>>small parts don't roll away. Follow the directions.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>wkearney99 wrote:
>>
>>>Hmmm, how about it draining gasoline once the engine is shut off? I haven't
>>
> yet
>
>>>tracked down where but it's guaranteed to drip out about a bowl's worth of
>>
> gas
>
>>>once the engine is turned off. It does usually take at least 10 minutes for
>>
> it
>
>>>to start showing a drip underneath.
>>>
>>>I will take a serious look at the emission systems.
>>>
>>>Does anyone know of a 'carb expert' in the DC/Baltimore area? I'd be
>>
> willing to
>
>>>pay someone. Provided someone else recommends them and because they /know/
>>
> they
>
>>>can fix this sort of thing.
>>>
>>>-Bill Kearney
>>
>

 

> To check your emissions, trace the PCV line to the intake and there or
> on the PCV valve itself you will find another hose 'T' ed into it.
>
> Follow this hose and it will go to the charcoal canister or gas tank and
> carb float bowl vent.
>
> At idle, pinch this PVC line to the canister closed. If the idle
> changes, the canister is shot and the carb will not work right.

Nope, the pinching the line did not affect the idle. This is the line that goes
to the pair of vacuum canisters on the right (passenger) wheel house (just
behind the battery). I tried removing the line and making /sure/ it was plugged
and it did not affect the idle.

Is there a vacuum diagram for this online somewhere? Or, which manual does the
'least worst' job of correctly charting out what goes where. It all looks
correct.

Pardon my ignorance here, emission control systems are not my forte.

Then the question becomes the best price for a rebuilt one. Carb Exchange is
quoting $289 for one, is that a in the range of reasonable for a replacment
remanufactured unit? I'll get a kit this weekend and give it a try (they'll
take my failed rebuild as a core) so it'd only be the cost of the kit wasted.

-Bill Kearney

 

wkearney99 wrote:
>
> > To check your emissions, trace the PCV line to the intake and there or
> > on the PCV valve itself you will find another hose 'T' ed into it.
> >
> > Follow this hose and it will go to the charcoal canister or gas tank and
> > carb float bowl vent.
> >
> > At idle, pinch this PVC line to the canister closed. If the idle
> > changes, the canister is shot and the carb will not work right.
>
> Nope, the pinching the line did not affect the idle. This is the line that goes
> to the pair of vacuum canisters on the right (passenger) wheel house (just
> behind the battery). I tried removing the line and making /sure/ it was plugged
> and it did not affect the idle.
>
> Is there a vacuum diagram for this online somewhere? Or, which manual does the
> 'least worst' job of correctly charting out what goes where. It all looks
> correct.
>
> Pardon my ignorance here, emission control systems are not my forte.
>
> Then the question becomes the best price for a rebuilt one. Carb Exchange is
> quoting $289 for one, is that a in the range of reasonable for a replacment
> remanufactured unit? I'll get a kit this weekend and give it a try (they'll
> take my failed rebuild as a core) so it'd only be the cost of the kit wasted.
>
> -Bill Kearney

Ok, then too high a vacuum on the float bowl isn't an issue.

Go for the kit, you should be pleasantly surprised.

Also check that choke pull off like others have mentioned, I just suck
on the hose to see if it holds vacuum, but your symptoms point to a bad
float needle and seat and worn gaskets.

Turning and dying, is float usually, it either sticks open or closed,
both stop the engine.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

> Ok, then too high a vacuum on the float bowl isn't an issue.

I did see some messages (stfw, google) on there being problems with too low a
vacuum level not being able to 'run' the necessary bits. So I'll be digging out
my vacuum gauge tomorrow to measure what it's pulling. Any suggestions on what
take-off point to use for measuring?

> Go for the kit, you should be pleasantly surprised.

I'm hoping if I make a mess of it the remanufacturing place won't care. So if
my rebuilding fails I'll only be out the cost of the kit and my
time/aggravation.

> Also check that choke pull off like others have mentioned, I just suck
> on the hose to see if it holds vacuum, but your symptoms point to a bad
> float needle and seat and worn gaskets.
>
> Turning and dying, is float usually, it either sticks open or closed,
> both stop the engine.

Yeah, the odd thing it would only do this when making a left-turn at speeds
above 15 mph or so. There had to be some weight-transition movement to trigger
the stall. This was on the old 2.8L via mechanical fuel pump as well as on the
replacement 3.4L with it's electric pump. So I'm not inclined to think it's
fuel pressure related but I've never measured the pump's output.

How much of the linkage and such am I going to have to disrupt to do the
rebuild? Can I hope to be able to maintain the various bits of alignment that
exist or am I going to have to set it all up from scratch again?

Does anyone's carb book /really/ do a good job covering the 2SE? (I have a 2SE,
not the E2SE, thankfully)

-Bill Kearney