A/C problem
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C problem
and you can charge off of pressure........here's how
look at the pressure on your gauge on the low side. Look at the
corresponding temp referring to 134a on the gauge. The temperature of the
line RETURNING to the compressor should be 8-16 degrees F higher than the
temp reading on the gauge. This is known as SUPERHEAT. Some will tell you
to take the air discharge temperature, but is a completely inaccurate way of
obtaining the superheat. Too many variables to screw up the temp. Not
enough air flow, etc.....the list goes on. Take the line temp. BUT caution.
If the temp of the line matches or is lower than the temp on the gauge, then
you will be getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor.
This will have the equivilent effect on the compressor as putting a garden
hose down your carb and turning on the water.
the units are made to pump vapor and not liquid. BAD things happen to
pistons and valves when liquid comes back, so make sure the temp is higher
than what is on the gauge.......
Robb S wrote:
>ok you guys
>here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
>be cold. It will probably be warm because it is liquid refrigerant under
>high pressure. The line coming back to the compressor should be colder than
>the other line.
>Two lines going into the cab. One warmer than the other, and....the one
>returning to the compressor should be the colder of the two.
>I'll have to check your 134 theory, but it's probably a mixed refrigerant,
>and if thats the case, it needs to be dumped and recharged as a whole because
>it is more than 1 refrigerant combined together, and they will leak at
>different rates. Thats why it must be dumped and recharged as a whole. I
>just can't remember the make up of 134a and whether this is a mixed gas or
>not without looking at the jug....
>
>>If the big line going to the cab is not cold, then you don't have enough
>>refrigerant in your system. I do not have a good source of theory handy,
>[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
look at the pressure on your gauge on the low side. Look at the
corresponding temp referring to 134a on the gauge. The temperature of the
line RETURNING to the compressor should be 8-16 degrees F higher than the
temp reading on the gauge. This is known as SUPERHEAT. Some will tell you
to take the air discharge temperature, but is a completely inaccurate way of
obtaining the superheat. Too many variables to screw up the temp. Not
enough air flow, etc.....the list goes on. Take the line temp. BUT caution.
If the temp of the line matches or is lower than the temp on the gauge, then
you will be getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor.
This will have the equivilent effect on the compressor as putting a garden
hose down your carb and turning on the water.
the units are made to pump vapor and not liquid. BAD things happen to
pistons and valves when liquid comes back, so make sure the temp is higher
than what is on the gauge.......
Robb S wrote:
>ok you guys
>here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
>be cold. It will probably be warm because it is liquid refrigerant under
>high pressure. The line coming back to the compressor should be colder than
>the other line.
>Two lines going into the cab. One warmer than the other, and....the one
>returning to the compressor should be the colder of the two.
>I'll have to check your 134 theory, but it's probably a mixed refrigerant,
>and if thats the case, it needs to be dumped and recharged as a whole because
>it is more than 1 refrigerant combined together, and they will leak at
>different rates. Thats why it must be dumped and recharged as a whole. I
>just can't remember the make up of 134a and whether this is a mixed gas or
>not without looking at the jug....
>
>>If the big line going to the cab is not cold, then you don't have enough
>>refrigerant in your system. I do not have a good source of theory handy,
>[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C problem
also, if the corresponding temperature on the pressure temp gauge is more
than 20 degrees F lower than the large line returning to the compressor, I'd
say your low on gas. The lower the superheat # the more efficient the system
is. As the temperature difference gets greater, that means less efficiency,
thus low on charge situation.........use the gauge and the temps, you won't
go wrong.........
let me know how it all turns out..
Robb S wrote:
>and you can charge off of pressure........here's how
>look at the pressure on your gauge on the low side. Look at the
>corresponding temp referring to 134a on the gauge. The temperature of the
>line RETURNING to the compressor should be 8-16 degrees F higher than the
>temp reading on the gauge. This is known as SUPERHEAT. Some will tell you
>to take the air discharge temperature, but is a completely inaccurate way of
>obtaining the superheat. Too many variables to screw up the temp. Not
>enough air flow, etc.....the list goes on. Take the line temp. BUT caution.
>If the temp of the line matches or is lower than the temp on the gauge, then
>you will be getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor.
>This will have the equivilent effect on the compressor as putting a garden
>hose down your carb and turning on the water.
>the units are made to pump vapor and not liquid. BAD things happen to
>pistons and valves when liquid comes back, so make sure the temp is higher
>than what is on the gauge.......
>
>>ok you guys
>>here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
>[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>>>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>>>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1
than 20 degrees F lower than the large line returning to the compressor, I'd
say your low on gas. The lower the superheat # the more efficient the system
is. As the temperature difference gets greater, that means less efficiency,
thus low on charge situation.........use the gauge and the temps, you won't
go wrong.........
let me know how it all turns out..
Robb S wrote:
>and you can charge off of pressure........here's how
>look at the pressure on your gauge on the low side. Look at the
>corresponding temp referring to 134a on the gauge. The temperature of the
>line RETURNING to the compressor should be 8-16 degrees F higher than the
>temp reading on the gauge. This is known as SUPERHEAT. Some will tell you
>to take the air discharge temperature, but is a completely inaccurate way of
>obtaining the superheat. Too many variables to screw up the temp. Not
>enough air flow, etc.....the list goes on. Take the line temp. BUT caution.
>If the temp of the line matches or is lower than the temp on the gauge, then
>you will be getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor.
>This will have the equivilent effect on the compressor as putting a garden
>hose down your carb and turning on the water.
>the units are made to pump vapor and not liquid. BAD things happen to
>pistons and valves when liquid comes back, so make sure the temp is higher
>than what is on the gauge.......
>
>>ok you guys
>>here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
>[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>>>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>>>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C problem
also, if the corresponding temperature on the pressure temp gauge is more
than 20 degrees F lower than the large line returning to the compressor, I'd
say your low on gas. The lower the superheat # the more efficient the system
is. As the temperature difference gets greater, that means less efficiency,
thus low on charge situation.........use the gauge and the temps, you won't
go wrong.........
let me know how it all turns out..
Robb S wrote:
>and you can charge off of pressure........here's how
>look at the pressure on your gauge on the low side. Look at the
>corresponding temp referring to 134a on the gauge. The temperature of the
>line RETURNING to the compressor should be 8-16 degrees F higher than the
>temp reading on the gauge. This is known as SUPERHEAT. Some will tell you
>to take the air discharge temperature, but is a completely inaccurate way of
>obtaining the superheat. Too many variables to screw up the temp. Not
>enough air flow, etc.....the list goes on. Take the line temp. BUT caution.
>If the temp of the line matches or is lower than the temp on the gauge, then
>you will be getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor.
>This will have the equivilent effect on the compressor as putting a garden
>hose down your carb and turning on the water.
>the units are made to pump vapor and not liquid. BAD things happen to
>pistons and valves when liquid comes back, so make sure the temp is higher
>than what is on the gauge.......
>
>>ok you guys
>>here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
>[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>>>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>>>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1
than 20 degrees F lower than the large line returning to the compressor, I'd
say your low on gas. The lower the superheat # the more efficient the system
is. As the temperature difference gets greater, that means less efficiency,
thus low on charge situation.........use the gauge and the temps, you won't
go wrong.........
let me know how it all turns out..
Robb S wrote:
>and you can charge off of pressure........here's how
>look at the pressure on your gauge on the low side. Look at the
>corresponding temp referring to 134a on the gauge. The temperature of the
>line RETURNING to the compressor should be 8-16 degrees F higher than the
>temp reading on the gauge. This is known as SUPERHEAT. Some will tell you
>to take the air discharge temperature, but is a completely inaccurate way of
>obtaining the superheat. Too many variables to screw up the temp. Not
>enough air flow, etc.....the list goes on. Take the line temp. BUT caution.
>If the temp of the line matches or is lower than the temp on the gauge, then
>you will be getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor.
>This will have the equivilent effect on the compressor as putting a garden
>hose down your carb and turning on the water.
>the units are made to pump vapor and not liquid. BAD things happen to
>pistons and valves when liquid comes back, so make sure the temp is higher
>than what is on the gauge.......
>
>>ok you guys
>>here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
>[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>>>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>>>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C problem
also, if the corresponding temperature on the pressure temp gauge is more
than 20 degrees F lower than the large line returning to the compressor, I'd
say your low on gas. The lower the superheat # the more efficient the system
is. As the temperature difference gets greater, that means less efficiency,
thus low on charge situation.........use the gauge and the temps, you won't
go wrong.........
let me know how it all turns out..
Robb S wrote:
>and you can charge off of pressure........here's how
>look at the pressure on your gauge on the low side. Look at the
>corresponding temp referring to 134a on the gauge. The temperature of the
>line RETURNING to the compressor should be 8-16 degrees F higher than the
>temp reading on the gauge. This is known as SUPERHEAT. Some will tell you
>to take the air discharge temperature, but is a completely inaccurate way of
>obtaining the superheat. Too many variables to screw up the temp. Not
>enough air flow, etc.....the list goes on. Take the line temp. BUT caution.
>If the temp of the line matches or is lower than the temp on the gauge, then
>you will be getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor.
>This will have the equivilent effect on the compressor as putting a garden
>hose down your carb and turning on the water.
>the units are made to pump vapor and not liquid. BAD things happen to
>pistons and valves when liquid comes back, so make sure the temp is higher
>than what is on the gauge.......
>
>>ok you guys
>>here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
>[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>>>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>>>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1
than 20 degrees F lower than the large line returning to the compressor, I'd
say your low on gas. The lower the superheat # the more efficient the system
is. As the temperature difference gets greater, that means less efficiency,
thus low on charge situation.........use the gauge and the temps, you won't
go wrong.........
let me know how it all turns out..
Robb S wrote:
>and you can charge off of pressure........here's how
>look at the pressure on your gauge on the low side. Look at the
>corresponding temp referring to 134a on the gauge. The temperature of the
>line RETURNING to the compressor should be 8-16 degrees F higher than the
>temp reading on the gauge. This is known as SUPERHEAT. Some will tell you
>to take the air discharge temperature, but is a completely inaccurate way of
>obtaining the superheat. Too many variables to screw up the temp. Not
>enough air flow, etc.....the list goes on. Take the line temp. BUT caution.
>If the temp of the line matches or is lower than the temp on the gauge, then
>you will be getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor.
>This will have the equivilent effect on the compressor as putting a garden
>hose down your carb and turning on the water.
>the units are made to pump vapor and not liquid. BAD things happen to
>pistons and valves when liquid comes back, so make sure the temp is higher
>than what is on the gauge.......
>
>>ok you guys
>>here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
>[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>>>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>>>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: A/C problem
also, if the corresponding temperature on the pressure temp gauge is more
than 20 degrees F lower than the large line returning to the compressor, I'd
say your low on gas. The lower the superheat # the more efficient the system
is. As the temperature difference gets greater, that means less efficiency,
thus low on charge situation.........use the gauge and the temps, you won't
go wrong.........
let me know how it all turns out..
Robb S wrote:
>and you can charge off of pressure........here's how
>look at the pressure on your gauge on the low side. Look at the
>corresponding temp referring to 134a on the gauge. The temperature of the
>line RETURNING to the compressor should be 8-16 degrees F higher than the
>temp reading on the gauge. This is known as SUPERHEAT. Some will tell you
>to take the air discharge temperature, but is a completely inaccurate way of
>obtaining the superheat. Too many variables to screw up the temp. Not
>enough air flow, etc.....the list goes on. Take the line temp. BUT caution.
>If the temp of the line matches or is lower than the temp on the gauge, then
>you will be getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor.
>This will have the equivilent effect on the compressor as putting a garden
>hose down your carb and turning on the water.
>the units are made to pump vapor and not liquid. BAD things happen to
>pistons and valves when liquid comes back, so make sure the temp is higher
>than what is on the gauge.......
>
>>ok you guys
>>here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
>[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>>>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>>>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1
than 20 degrees F lower than the large line returning to the compressor, I'd
say your low on gas. The lower the superheat # the more efficient the system
is. As the temperature difference gets greater, that means less efficiency,
thus low on charge situation.........use the gauge and the temps, you won't
go wrong.........
let me know how it all turns out..
Robb S wrote:
>and you can charge off of pressure........here's how
>look at the pressure on your gauge on the low side. Look at the
>corresponding temp referring to 134a on the gauge. The temperature of the
>line RETURNING to the compressor should be 8-16 degrees F higher than the
>temp reading on the gauge. This is known as SUPERHEAT. Some will tell you
>to take the air discharge temperature, but is a completely inaccurate way of
>obtaining the superheat. Too many variables to screw up the temp. Not
>enough air flow, etc.....the list goes on. Take the line temp. BUT caution.
>If the temp of the line matches or is lower than the temp on the gauge, then
>you will be getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor.
>This will have the equivilent effect on the compressor as putting a garden
>hose down your carb and turning on the water.
>the units are made to pump vapor and not liquid. BAD things happen to
>pistons and valves when liquid comes back, so make sure the temp is higher
>than what is on the gauge.......
>
>>ok you guys
>>here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
>[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>>>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>>>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1