If the big line going to the cab is not cold, then you don't have enough
refrigerant in your system. I do not have a good source of theory handy,
but my basic air conditioning service manual says over and over again, that
R-134a systems cannot be charged by the pressure method. "The only way" is
to evacuate the system and then charge to the proper weight of refrigerant.
I didn't get anywhere with my old Suburban until I started believing the
authors of this book. Now, the AC has been working for two years without
fail. (The new O-rings, compressor, hoses and orifice didn't hurt.)

You can charge refrigerant until the return line (the big one) from the cab
is cold, and your system will work for a while, but it won't be right. You
will either have too much or too little refrigerant in there, and combined
with your leak this is going to mean a system that only works for a couple
of months, if that. When your system is evacuated (which will happen soon,
one way or the other) I recommend replacing all the O-rings and any hose
that is wet with refrigeration oil.

Earle

"MPClark" <MPClark.1rarg5@news.autobanter.com> wrote in message
news:MPClark.1rarg5@news.autobanter.com...
>
> Alright, I went back to check all of that. After letting the engine and
> A/C run for several minutes, I checked the pressure to be just about
> 40. Then I felt the lines: the two going into the cab are slightly
> warm, the one going into the compressor is also slightly warm, and the
> line coming out of the compressor is too hot to touch. It's confusing
> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.
>
>
> --
> MPClark

 

If the big line going to the cab is not cold, then you don't have enough
refrigerant in your system. I do not have a good source of theory handy,
but my basic air conditioning service manual says over and over again, that
R-134a systems cannot be charged by the pressure method. "The only way" is
to evacuate the system and then charge to the proper weight of refrigerant.
I didn't get anywhere with my old Suburban until I started believing the
authors of this book. Now, the AC has been working for two years without
fail. (The new O-rings, compressor, hoses and orifice didn't hurt.)

You can charge refrigerant until the return line (the big one) from the cab
is cold, and your system will work for a while, but it won't be right. You
will either have too much or too little refrigerant in there, and combined
with your leak this is going to mean a system that only works for a couple
of months, if that. When your system is evacuated (which will happen soon,
one way or the other) I recommend replacing all the O-rings and any hose
that is wet with refrigeration oil.

Earle

"MPClark" <MPClark.1rarg5@news.autobanter.com> wrote in message
news:MPClark.1rarg5@news.autobanter.com...
>
> Alright, I went back to check all of that. After letting the engine and
> A/C run for several minutes, I checked the pressure to be just about
> 40. Then I felt the lines: the two going into the cab are slightly
> warm, the one going into the compressor is also slightly warm, and the
> line coming out of the compressor is too hot to touch. It's confusing
> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.
>
>
> --
> MPClark

 

If the big line going to the cab is not cold, then you don't have enough
refrigerant in your system. I do not have a good source of theory handy,
but my basic air conditioning service manual says over and over again, that
R-134a systems cannot be charged by the pressure method. "The only way" is
to evacuate the system and then charge to the proper weight of refrigerant.
I didn't get anywhere with my old Suburban until I started believing the
authors of this book. Now, the AC has been working for two years without
fail. (The new O-rings, compressor, hoses and orifice didn't hurt.)

You can charge refrigerant until the return line (the big one) from the cab
is cold, and your system will work for a while, but it won't be right. You
will either have too much or too little refrigerant in there, and combined
with your leak this is going to mean a system that only works for a couple
of months, if that. When your system is evacuated (which will happen soon,
one way or the other) I recommend replacing all the O-rings and any hose
that is wet with refrigeration oil.

Earle

"MPClark" <MPClark.1rarg5@news.autobanter.com> wrote in message
news:MPClark.1rarg5@news.autobanter.com...
>
> Alright, I went back to check all of that. After letting the engine and
> A/C run for several minutes, I checked the pressure to be just about
> 40. Then I felt the lines: the two going into the cab are slightly
> warm, the one going into the compressor is also slightly warm, and the
> line coming out of the compressor is too hot to touch. It's confusing
> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.
>
>
> --
> MPClark

 

ok you guys
here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
be cold. It will probably be warm because it is liquid refrigerant under
high pressure. The line coming back to the compressor should be colder than
the other line.
Two lines going into the cab. One warmer than the other, and....the one
returning to the compressor should be the colder of the two.
I'll have to check your 134 theory, but it's probably a mixed refrigerant,
and if thats the case, it needs to be dumped and recharged as a whole because
it is more than 1 refrigerant combined together, and they will leak at
different rates. Thats why it must be dumped and recharged as a whole. I
just can't remember the make up of 134a and whether this is a mixed gas or
not without looking at the jug....



Earle Horton wrote:
>If the big line going to the cab is not cold, then you don't have enough
>refrigerant in your system. I do not have a good source of theory handy,
>but my basic air conditioning service manual says over and over again, that
>R-134a systems cannot be charged by the pressure method. "The only way" is
>to evacuate the system and then charge to the proper weight of refrigerant.
>I didn't get anywhere with my old Suburban until I started believing the
>authors of this book. Now, the AC has been working for two years without
>fail. (The new O-rings, compressor, hoses and orifice didn't hurt.)
>
>You can charge refrigerant until the return line (the big one) from the cab
>is cold, and your system will work for a while, but it won't be right. You
>will either have too much or too little refrigerant in there, and combined
>with your leak this is going to mean a system that only works for a couple
>of months, if that. When your system is evacuated (which will happen soon,
>one way or the other) I recommend replacing all the O-rings and any hose
>that is wet with refrigeration oil.
>
>Earle
>
>> Alright, I went back to check all of that. After letting the engine and
>> A/C run for several minutes, I checked the pressure to be just about
>[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.


--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1

 

ok you guys
here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
be cold. It will probably be warm because it is liquid refrigerant under
high pressure. The line coming back to the compressor should be colder than
the other line.
Two lines going into the cab. One warmer than the other, and....the one
returning to the compressor should be the colder of the two.
I'll have to check your 134 theory, but it's probably a mixed refrigerant,
and if thats the case, it needs to be dumped and recharged as a whole because
it is more than 1 refrigerant combined together, and they will leak at
different rates. Thats why it must be dumped and recharged as a whole. I
just can't remember the make up of 134a and whether this is a mixed gas or
not without looking at the jug....



Earle Horton wrote:
>If the big line going to the cab is not cold, then you don't have enough
>refrigerant in your system. I do not have a good source of theory handy,
>but my basic air conditioning service manual says over and over again, that
>R-134a systems cannot be charged by the pressure method. "The only way" is
>to evacuate the system and then charge to the proper weight of refrigerant.
>I didn't get anywhere with my old Suburban until I started believing the
>authors of this book. Now, the AC has been working for two years without
>fail. (The new O-rings, compressor, hoses and orifice didn't hurt.)
>
>You can charge refrigerant until the return line (the big one) from the cab
>is cold, and your system will work for a while, but it won't be right. You
>will either have too much or too little refrigerant in there, and combined
>with your leak this is going to mean a system that only works for a couple
>of months, if that. When your system is evacuated (which will happen soon,
>one way or the other) I recommend replacing all the O-rings and any hose
>that is wet with refrigeration oil.
>
>Earle
>
>> Alright, I went back to check all of that. After letting the engine and
>> A/C run for several minutes, I checked the pressure to be just about
>[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.


--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1

 

ok you guys
here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
be cold. It will probably be warm because it is liquid refrigerant under
high pressure. The line coming back to the compressor should be colder than
the other line.
Two lines going into the cab. One warmer than the other, and....the one
returning to the compressor should be the colder of the two.
I'll have to check your 134 theory, but it's probably a mixed refrigerant,
and if thats the case, it needs to be dumped and recharged as a whole because
it is more than 1 refrigerant combined together, and they will leak at
different rates. Thats why it must be dumped and recharged as a whole. I
just can't remember the make up of 134a and whether this is a mixed gas or
not without looking at the jug....



Earle Horton wrote:
>If the big line going to the cab is not cold, then you don't have enough
>refrigerant in your system. I do not have a good source of theory handy,
>but my basic air conditioning service manual says over and over again, that
>R-134a systems cannot be charged by the pressure method. "The only way" is
>to evacuate the system and then charge to the proper weight of refrigerant.
>I didn't get anywhere with my old Suburban until I started believing the
>authors of this book. Now, the AC has been working for two years without
>fail. (The new O-rings, compressor, hoses and orifice didn't hurt.)
>
>You can charge refrigerant until the return line (the big one) from the cab
>is cold, and your system will work for a while, but it won't be right. You
>will either have too much or too little refrigerant in there, and combined
>with your leak this is going to mean a system that only works for a couple
>of months, if that. When your system is evacuated (which will happen soon,
>one way or the other) I recommend replacing all the O-rings and any hose
>that is wet with refrigeration oil.
>
>Earle
>
>> Alright, I went back to check all of that. After letting the engine and
>> A/C run for several minutes, I checked the pressure to be just about
>[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.


--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1

 

ok you guys
here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
be cold. It will probably be warm because it is liquid refrigerant under
high pressure. The line coming back to the compressor should be colder than
the other line.
Two lines going into the cab. One warmer than the other, and....the one
returning to the compressor should be the colder of the two.
I'll have to check your 134 theory, but it's probably a mixed refrigerant,
and if thats the case, it needs to be dumped and recharged as a whole because
it is more than 1 refrigerant combined together, and they will leak at
different rates. Thats why it must be dumped and recharged as a whole. I
just can't remember the make up of 134a and whether this is a mixed gas or
not without looking at the jug....



Earle Horton wrote:
>If the big line going to the cab is not cold, then you don't have enough
>refrigerant in your system. I do not have a good source of theory handy,
>but my basic air conditioning service manual says over and over again, that
>R-134a systems cannot be charged by the pressure method. "The only way" is
>to evacuate the system and then charge to the proper weight of refrigerant.
>I didn't get anywhere with my old Suburban until I started believing the
>authors of this book. Now, the AC has been working for two years without
>fail. (The new O-rings, compressor, hoses and orifice didn't hurt.)
>
>You can charge refrigerant until the return line (the big one) from the cab
>is cold, and your system will work for a while, but it won't be right. You
>will either have too much or too little refrigerant in there, and combined
>with your leak this is going to mean a system that only works for a couple
>of months, if that. When your system is evacuated (which will happen soon,
>one way or the other) I recommend replacing all the O-rings and any hose
>that is wet with refrigeration oil.
>
>Earle
>
>> Alright, I went back to check all of that. After letting the engine and
>> A/C run for several minutes, I checked the pressure to be just about
>[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.


--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1

 

and you can charge off of pressure........here's how
look at the pressure on your gauge on the low side. Look at the
corresponding temp referring to 134a on the gauge. The temperature of the
line RETURNING to the compressor should be 8-16 degrees F higher than the
temp reading on the gauge. This is known as SUPERHEAT. Some will tell you
to take the air discharge temperature, but is a completely inaccurate way of
obtaining the superheat. Too many variables to screw up the temp. Not
enough air flow, etc.....the list goes on. Take the line temp. BUT caution.
If the temp of the line matches or is lower than the temp on the gauge, then
you will be getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor.
This will have the equivilent effect on the compressor as putting a garden
hose down your carb and turning on the water.
the units are made to pump vapor and not liquid. BAD things happen to
pistons and valves when liquid comes back, so make sure the temp is higher
than what is on the gauge.......

Robb S wrote:
>ok you guys
>here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
>be cold. It will probably be warm because it is liquid refrigerant under
>high pressure. The line coming back to the compressor should be colder than
>the other line.
>Two lines going into the cab. One warmer than the other, and....the one
>returning to the compressor should be the colder of the two.
>I'll have to check your 134 theory, but it's probably a mixed refrigerant,
>and if thats the case, it needs to be dumped and recharged as a whole because
>it is more than 1 refrigerant combined together, and they will leak at
>different rates. Thats why it must be dumped and recharged as a whole. I
>just can't remember the make up of 134a and whether this is a mixed gas or
>not without looking at the jug....
>
>>If the big line going to the cab is not cold, then you don't have enough
>>refrigerant in your system. I do not have a good source of theory handy,
>[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.


--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

 

and you can charge off of pressure........here's how
look at the pressure on your gauge on the low side. Look at the
corresponding temp referring to 134a on the gauge. The temperature of the
line RETURNING to the compressor should be 8-16 degrees F higher than the
temp reading on the gauge. This is known as SUPERHEAT. Some will tell you
to take the air discharge temperature, but is a completely inaccurate way of
obtaining the superheat. Too many variables to screw up the temp. Not
enough air flow, etc.....the list goes on. Take the line temp. BUT caution.
If the temp of the line matches or is lower than the temp on the gauge, then
you will be getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor.
This will have the equivilent effect on the compressor as putting a garden
hose down your carb and turning on the water.
the units are made to pump vapor and not liquid. BAD things happen to
pistons and valves when liquid comes back, so make sure the temp is higher
than what is on the gauge.......

Robb S wrote:
>ok you guys
>here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
>be cold. It will probably be warm because it is liquid refrigerant under
>high pressure. The line coming back to the compressor should be colder than
>the other line.
>Two lines going into the cab. One warmer than the other, and....the one
>returning to the compressor should be the colder of the two.
>I'll have to check your 134 theory, but it's probably a mixed refrigerant,
>and if thats the case, it needs to be dumped and recharged as a whole because
>it is more than 1 refrigerant combined together, and they will leak at
>different rates. Thats why it must be dumped and recharged as a whole. I
>just can't remember the make up of 134a and whether this is a mixed gas or
>not without looking at the jug....
>
>>If the big line going to the cab is not cold, then you don't have enough
>>refrigerant in your system. I do not have a good source of theory handy,
>[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.


--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

 

and you can charge off of pressure........here's how
look at the pressure on your gauge on the low side. Look at the
corresponding temp referring to 134a on the gauge. The temperature of the
line RETURNING to the compressor should be 8-16 degrees F higher than the
temp reading on the gauge. This is known as SUPERHEAT. Some will tell you
to take the air discharge temperature, but is a completely inaccurate way of
obtaining the superheat. Too many variables to screw up the temp. Not
enough air flow, etc.....the list goes on. Take the line temp. BUT caution.
If the temp of the line matches or is lower than the temp on the gauge, then
you will be getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor.
This will have the equivilent effect on the compressor as putting a garden
hose down your carb and turning on the water.
the units are made to pump vapor and not liquid. BAD things happen to
pistons and valves when liquid comes back, so make sure the temp is higher
than what is on the gauge.......

Robb S wrote:
>ok you guys
>here goes,,, the line going from the accumulator to the evaporator should not
>be cold. It will probably be warm because it is liquid refrigerant under
>high pressure. The line coming back to the compressor should be colder than
>the other line.
>Two lines going into the cab. One warmer than the other, and....the one
>returning to the compressor should be the colder of the two.
>I'll have to check your 134 theory, but it's probably a mixed refrigerant,
>and if thats the case, it needs to be dumped and recharged as a whole because
>it is more than 1 refrigerant combined together, and they will leak at
>different rates. Thats why it must be dumped and recharged as a whole. I
>just can't remember the make up of 134a and whether this is a mixed gas or
>not without looking at the jug....
>
>>If the big line going to the cab is not cold, then you don't have enough
>>refrigerant in your system. I do not have a good source of theory handy,
>[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>>> me because whether there is a leak or not, the pressure is where is
>>> should be, so low pressure shouldn't be a problem I would think.


--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com