Re: Brand new '89 YJ
 

Yes, I think so mostly because I am on this side of the computer.

I believe your coil is OK because of the flash on the timing light.

Using a test light or meter makes life a 'lot' easier.

When the key is in 'run', a test light should light up when hooked to
the coil positive.

The test light should stay lit when someone turns the key more to
'start' and the starter cranks.

If this happens, then put the test light on the negative side of the
coil and watch when someone cranks it. It should pulse or flicker.

If no pulsing, suspect the ignition module or coil pickup. There are
meter tests for the coil pickup. You need a multimeter for this. It is
easy.

Then you also should open the air filter, hold the choke open and hand
move the throttle linkage to watch the two squirts of gas that has to be
happening. If no gas, get back to us or toss a quarter cup of gas in
the carb and try it again to see what happens. If you get a roar,
suspect a blocked gas filter.

Mike

The Merg wrote:
> I have a test light - I'm assuming I need to check the wires going 'to'
> the coil? I'm pretty sure my dad has meters around too, at least he did
> last I checked.
> So I still need to check if the coil is getting power even though
> nothing happened when power was run directly to it?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> You need to find out if the coil is getting power or if the ignition
>> module has issues. You need a meter or test light to do this.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I tried jumping directly to the coil, got nothing. I think I did it
>>> right - it was hard to shove the cable in there, but anyway, this
>>> indicates a bad coil then?
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> No.
>>>>
>>>> If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as
>>>> long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the
>>>> key goes to run.
>>>>
>>>> He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key
>>>> goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the
>>>> solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue.
>>>>
>>>> He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts at
>>>> a non starter.
>>>>
>>>> Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that
>>>> out fast.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: Brand new '89 YJ
 

Yes, I think so mostly because I am on this side of the computer.

I believe your coil is OK because of the flash on the timing light.

Using a test light or meter makes life a 'lot' easier.

When the key is in 'run', a test light should light up when hooked to
the coil positive.

The test light should stay lit when someone turns the key more to
'start' and the starter cranks.

If this happens, then put the test light on the negative side of the
coil and watch when someone cranks it. It should pulse or flicker.

If no pulsing, suspect the ignition module or coil pickup. There are
meter tests for the coil pickup. You need a multimeter for this. It is
easy.

Then you also should open the air filter, hold the choke open and hand
move the throttle linkage to watch the two squirts of gas that has to be
happening. If no gas, get back to us or toss a quarter cup of gas in
the carb and try it again to see what happens. If you get a roar,
suspect a blocked gas filter.

Mike

The Merg wrote:
> I have a test light - I'm assuming I need to check the wires going 'to'
> the coil? I'm pretty sure my dad has meters around too, at least he did
> last I checked.
> So I still need to check if the coil is getting power even though
> nothing happened when power was run directly to it?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> You need to find out if the coil is getting power or if the ignition
>> module has issues. You need a meter or test light to do this.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I tried jumping directly to the coil, got nothing. I think I did it
>>> right - it was hard to shove the cable in there, but anyway, this
>>> indicates a bad coil then?
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> No.
>>>>
>>>> If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as
>>>> long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the
>>>> key goes to run.
>>>>
>>>> He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key
>>>> goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the
>>>> solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue.
>>>>
>>>> He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts at
>>>> a non starter.
>>>>
>>>> Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that
>>>> out fast.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: Brand new '89 YJ
 

Yes, I think so mostly because I am on this side of the computer.

I believe your coil is OK because of the flash on the timing light.

Using a test light or meter makes life a 'lot' easier.

When the key is in 'run', a test light should light up when hooked to
the coil positive.

The test light should stay lit when someone turns the key more to
'start' and the starter cranks.

If this happens, then put the test light on the negative side of the
coil and watch when someone cranks it. It should pulse or flicker.

If no pulsing, suspect the ignition module or coil pickup. There are
meter tests for the coil pickup. You need a multimeter for this. It is
easy.

Then you also should open the air filter, hold the choke open and hand
move the throttle linkage to watch the two squirts of gas that has to be
happening. If no gas, get back to us or toss a quarter cup of gas in
the carb and try it again to see what happens. If you get a roar,
suspect a blocked gas filter.

Mike

The Merg wrote:
> I have a test light - I'm assuming I need to check the wires going 'to'
> the coil? I'm pretty sure my dad has meters around too, at least he did
> last I checked.
> So I still need to check if the coil is getting power even though
> nothing happened when power was run directly to it?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> You need to find out if the coil is getting power or if the ignition
>> module has issues. You need a meter or test light to do this.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I tried jumping directly to the coil, got nothing. I think I did it
>>> right - it was hard to shove the cable in there, but anyway, this
>>> indicates a bad coil then?
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> No.
>>>>
>>>> If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as
>>>> long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the
>>>> key goes to run.
>>>>
>>>> He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key
>>>> goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the
>>>> solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue.
>>>>
>>>> He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts at
>>>> a non starter.
>>>>
>>>> Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that
>>>> out fast.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: Brand new '89 YJ
 

It's not the fuel filter, one of the first things we tried was throwing
some gas in the carb.

I'll try to run some more tests as soon as I get someone to help me.

So, based on what I think you're saying, I should suspect the ignition
module. My thinking here is the flash on the timing light indicates
that the ignition module probably isn't sending the right signals to the
coil in the 'start' position. Is this what you're thinking, Mike?

Mike Romain wrote:
> Yes, I think so mostly because I am on this side of the computer.
>
> I believe your coil is OK because of the flash on the timing light.
>
> Using a test light or meter makes life a 'lot' easier.
>
> When the key is in 'run', a test light should light up when hooked to
> the coil positive.
>
> The test light should stay lit when someone turns the key more to
> 'start' and the starter cranks.
>
> If this happens, then put the test light on the negative side of the
> coil and watch when someone cranks it. It should pulse or flicker.
>
> If no pulsing, suspect the ignition module or coil pickup. There are
> meter tests for the coil pickup. You need a multimeter for this. It is
> easy.
>
> Then you also should open the air filter, hold the choke open and hand
> move the throttle linkage to watch the two squirts of gas that has to be
> happening. If no gas, get back to us or toss a quarter cup of gas in
> the carb and try it again to see what happens. If you get a roar,
> suspect a blocked gas filter.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> I have a test light - I'm assuming I need to check the wires going
>> 'to' the coil? I'm pretty sure my dad has meters around too, at least
>> he did last I checked.
>> So I still need to check if the coil is getting power even though
>> nothing happened when power was run directly to it?
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> You need to find out if the coil is getting power or if the ignition
>>> module has issues. You need a meter or test light to do this.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> I tried jumping directly to the coil, got nothing. I think I did it
>>>> right - it was hard to shove the cable in there, but anyway, this
>>>> indicates a bad coil then?
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> No.
>>>>>
>>>>> If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as
>>>>> long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the
>>>>> key goes to run.
>>>>>
>>>>> He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key
>>>>> goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the
>>>>> solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue.
>>>>>
>>>>> He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts at
>>>>> a non starter.
>>>>>
>>>>> Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that
>>>>> out fast.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: Brand new '89 YJ
 

It's not the fuel filter, one of the first things we tried was throwing
some gas in the carb.

I'll try to run some more tests as soon as I get someone to help me.

So, based on what I think you're saying, I should suspect the ignition
module. My thinking here is the flash on the timing light indicates
that the ignition module probably isn't sending the right signals to the
coil in the 'start' position. Is this what you're thinking, Mike?

Mike Romain wrote:
> Yes, I think so mostly because I am on this side of the computer.
>
> I believe your coil is OK because of the flash on the timing light.
>
> Using a test light or meter makes life a 'lot' easier.
>
> When the key is in 'run', a test light should light up when hooked to
> the coil positive.
>
> The test light should stay lit when someone turns the key more to
> 'start' and the starter cranks.
>
> If this happens, then put the test light on the negative side of the
> coil and watch when someone cranks it. It should pulse or flicker.
>
> If no pulsing, suspect the ignition module or coil pickup. There are
> meter tests for the coil pickup. You need a multimeter for this. It is
> easy.
>
> Then you also should open the air filter, hold the choke open and hand
> move the throttle linkage to watch the two squirts of gas that has to be
> happening. If no gas, get back to us or toss a quarter cup of gas in
> the carb and try it again to see what happens. If you get a roar,
> suspect a blocked gas filter.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> I have a test light - I'm assuming I need to check the wires going
>> 'to' the coil? I'm pretty sure my dad has meters around too, at least
>> he did last I checked.
>> So I still need to check if the coil is getting power even though
>> nothing happened when power was run directly to it?
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> You need to find out if the coil is getting power or if the ignition
>>> module has issues. You need a meter or test light to do this.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> I tried jumping directly to the coil, got nothing. I think I did it
>>>> right - it was hard to shove the cable in there, but anyway, this
>>>> indicates a bad coil then?
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> No.
>>>>>
>>>>> If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as
>>>>> long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the
>>>>> key goes to run.
>>>>>
>>>>> He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key
>>>>> goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the
>>>>> solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue.
>>>>>
>>>>> He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts at
>>>>> a non starter.
>>>>>
>>>>> Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that
>>>>> out fast.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: Brand new '89 YJ
 

It's not the fuel filter, one of the first things we tried was throwing
some gas in the carb.

I'll try to run some more tests as soon as I get someone to help me.

So, based on what I think you're saying, I should suspect the ignition
module. My thinking here is the flash on the timing light indicates
that the ignition module probably isn't sending the right signals to the
coil in the 'start' position. Is this what you're thinking, Mike?

Mike Romain wrote:
> Yes, I think so mostly because I am on this side of the computer.
>
> I believe your coil is OK because of the flash on the timing light.
>
> Using a test light or meter makes life a 'lot' easier.
>
> When the key is in 'run', a test light should light up when hooked to
> the coil positive.
>
> The test light should stay lit when someone turns the key more to
> 'start' and the starter cranks.
>
> If this happens, then put the test light on the negative side of the
> coil and watch when someone cranks it. It should pulse or flicker.
>
> If no pulsing, suspect the ignition module or coil pickup. There are
> meter tests for the coil pickup. You need a multimeter for this. It is
> easy.
>
> Then you also should open the air filter, hold the choke open and hand
> move the throttle linkage to watch the two squirts of gas that has to be
> happening. If no gas, get back to us or toss a quarter cup of gas in
> the carb and try it again to see what happens. If you get a roar,
> suspect a blocked gas filter.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> I have a test light - I'm assuming I need to check the wires going
>> 'to' the coil? I'm pretty sure my dad has meters around too, at least
>> he did last I checked.
>> So I still need to check if the coil is getting power even though
>> nothing happened when power was run directly to it?
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> You need to find out if the coil is getting power or if the ignition
>>> module has issues. You need a meter or test light to do this.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> I tried jumping directly to the coil, got nothing. I think I did it
>>>> right - it was hard to shove the cable in there, but anyway, this
>>>> indicates a bad coil then?
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> No.
>>>>>
>>>>> If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as
>>>>> long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the
>>>>> key goes to run.
>>>>>
>>>>> He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key
>>>>> goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the
>>>>> solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue.
>>>>>
>>>>> He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts at
>>>>> a non starter.
>>>>>
>>>>> Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that
>>>>> out fast.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: Brand new '89 YJ
 

It's not the fuel filter, one of the first things we tried was throwing
some gas in the carb.

I'll try to run some more tests as soon as I get someone to help me.

So, based on what I think you're saying, I should suspect the ignition
module. My thinking here is the flash on the timing light indicates
that the ignition module probably isn't sending the right signals to the
coil in the 'start' position. Is this what you're thinking, Mike?

Mike Romain wrote:
> Yes, I think so mostly because I am on this side of the computer.
>
> I believe your coil is OK because of the flash on the timing light.
>
> Using a test light or meter makes life a 'lot' easier.
>
> When the key is in 'run', a test light should light up when hooked to
> the coil positive.
>
> The test light should stay lit when someone turns the key more to
> 'start' and the starter cranks.
>
> If this happens, then put the test light on the negative side of the
> coil and watch when someone cranks it. It should pulse or flicker.
>
> If no pulsing, suspect the ignition module or coil pickup. There are
> meter tests for the coil pickup. You need a multimeter for this. It is
> easy.
>
> Then you also should open the air filter, hold the choke open and hand
> move the throttle linkage to watch the two squirts of gas that has to be
> happening. If no gas, get back to us or toss a quarter cup of gas in
> the carb and try it again to see what happens. If you get a roar,
> suspect a blocked gas filter.
>
> Mike
>
> The Merg wrote:
>> I have a test light - I'm assuming I need to check the wires going
>> 'to' the coil? I'm pretty sure my dad has meters around too, at least
>> he did last I checked.
>> So I still need to check if the coil is getting power even though
>> nothing happened when power was run directly to it?
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> You need to find out if the coil is getting power or if the ignition
>>> module has issues. You need a meter or test light to do this.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>> I tried jumping directly to the coil, got nothing. I think I did it
>>>> right - it was hard to shove the cable in there, but anyway, this
>>>> indicates a bad coil then?
>>>>
>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>> No.
>>>>>
>>>>> If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as
>>>>> long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the
>>>>> key goes to run.
>>>>>
>>>>> He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key
>>>>> goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the
>>>>> solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue.
>>>>>
>>>>> He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts at
>>>>> a non starter.
>>>>>
>>>>> Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that
>>>>> out fast.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: Brand new '89 YJ
 

Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?

I am more inclined to think dirty connection.

I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.

Mike

The Merg wrote:
> It's not the fuel filter, one of the first things we tried was throwing
> some gas in the carb.
>
> I'll try to run some more tests as soon as I get someone to help me.
>
> So, based on what I think you're saying, I should suspect the ignition
> module. My thinking here is the flash on the timing light indicates
> that the ignition module probably isn't sending the right signals to the
> coil in the 'start' position. Is this what you're thinking, Mike?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> Yes, I think so mostly because I am on this side of the computer.
>>
>> I believe your coil is OK because of the flash on the timing light.
>>
>> Using a test light or meter makes life a 'lot' easier.
>>
>> When the key is in 'run', a test light should light up when hooked to
>> the coil positive.
>>
>> The test light should stay lit when someone turns the key more to
>> 'start' and the starter cranks.
>>
>> If this happens, then put the test light on the negative side of the
>> coil and watch when someone cranks it. It should pulse or flicker.
>>
>> If no pulsing, suspect the ignition module or coil pickup. There are
>> meter tests for the coil pickup. You need a multimeter for this. It
>> is easy.
>>
>> Then you also should open the air filter, hold the choke open and hand
>> move the throttle linkage to watch the two squirts of gas that has to
>> be happening. If no gas, get back to us or toss a quarter cup of gas
>> in the carb and try it again to see what happens. If you get a roar,
>> suspect a blocked gas filter.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I have a test light - I'm assuming I need to check the wires going
>>> 'to' the coil? I'm pretty sure my dad has meters around too, at
>>> least he did last I checked.
>>> So I still need to check if the coil is getting power even though
>>> nothing happened when power was run directly to it?
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> You need to find out if the coil is getting power or if the ignition
>>>> module has issues. You need a meter or test light to do this.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> I tried jumping directly to the coil, got nothing. I think I did
>>>>> it right - it was hard to shove the cable in there, but anyway,
>>>>> this indicates a bad coil then?
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>> No.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as
>>>>>> long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the
>>>>>> key goes to run.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key
>>>>>> goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the
>>>>>> solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts
>>>>>> at a non starter.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that
>>>>>> out fast.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: Brand new '89 YJ
 

Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?

I am more inclined to think dirty connection.

I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.

Mike

The Merg wrote:
> It's not the fuel filter, one of the first things we tried was throwing
> some gas in the carb.
>
> I'll try to run some more tests as soon as I get someone to help me.
>
> So, based on what I think you're saying, I should suspect the ignition
> module. My thinking here is the flash on the timing light indicates
> that the ignition module probably isn't sending the right signals to the
> coil in the 'start' position. Is this what you're thinking, Mike?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> Yes, I think so mostly because I am on this side of the computer.
>>
>> I believe your coil is OK because of the flash on the timing light.
>>
>> Using a test light or meter makes life a 'lot' easier.
>>
>> When the key is in 'run', a test light should light up when hooked to
>> the coil positive.
>>
>> The test light should stay lit when someone turns the key more to
>> 'start' and the starter cranks.
>>
>> If this happens, then put the test light on the negative side of the
>> coil and watch when someone cranks it. It should pulse or flicker.
>>
>> If no pulsing, suspect the ignition module or coil pickup. There are
>> meter tests for the coil pickup. You need a multimeter for this. It
>> is easy.
>>
>> Then you also should open the air filter, hold the choke open and hand
>> move the throttle linkage to watch the two squirts of gas that has to
>> be happening. If no gas, get back to us or toss a quarter cup of gas
>> in the carb and try it again to see what happens. If you get a roar,
>> suspect a blocked gas filter.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I have a test light - I'm assuming I need to check the wires going
>>> 'to' the coil? I'm pretty sure my dad has meters around too, at
>>> least he did last I checked.
>>> So I still need to check if the coil is getting power even though
>>> nothing happened when power was run directly to it?
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> You need to find out if the coil is getting power or if the ignition
>>>> module has issues. You need a meter or test light to do this.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> I tried jumping directly to the coil, got nothing. I think I did
>>>>> it right - it was hard to shove the cable in there, but anyway,
>>>>> this indicates a bad coil then?
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>> No.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as
>>>>>> long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the
>>>>>> key goes to run.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key
>>>>>> goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the
>>>>>> solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts
>>>>>> at a non starter.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that
>>>>>> out fast.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: Brand new '89 YJ
 

Did the previous owner give any indication of problems?

I am more inclined to think dirty connection.

I would next if solo try running a booster cable from the battery
negative to the body of the Jeep and see what happens.

Mike

The Merg wrote:
> It's not the fuel filter, one of the first things we tried was throwing
> some gas in the carb.
>
> I'll try to run some more tests as soon as I get someone to help me.
>
> So, based on what I think you're saying, I should suspect the ignition
> module. My thinking here is the flash on the timing light indicates
> that the ignition module probably isn't sending the right signals to the
> coil in the 'start' position. Is this what you're thinking, Mike?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> Yes, I think so mostly because I am on this side of the computer.
>>
>> I believe your coil is OK because of the flash on the timing light.
>>
>> Using a test light or meter makes life a 'lot' easier.
>>
>> When the key is in 'run', a test light should light up when hooked to
>> the coil positive.
>>
>> The test light should stay lit when someone turns the key more to
>> 'start' and the starter cranks.
>>
>> If this happens, then put the test light on the negative side of the
>> coil and watch when someone cranks it. It should pulse or flicker.
>>
>> If no pulsing, suspect the ignition module or coil pickup. There are
>> meter tests for the coil pickup. You need a multimeter for this. It
>> is easy.
>>
>> Then you also should open the air filter, hold the choke open and hand
>> move the throttle linkage to watch the two squirts of gas that has to
>> be happening. If no gas, get back to us or toss a quarter cup of gas
>> in the carb and try it again to see what happens. If you get a roar,
>> suspect a blocked gas filter.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I have a test light - I'm assuming I need to check the wires going
>>> 'to' the coil? I'm pretty sure my dad has meters around too, at
>>> least he did last I checked.
>>> So I still need to check if the coil is getting power even though
>>> nothing happened when power was run directly to it?
>>>
>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>> You need to find out if the coil is getting power or if the ignition
>>>> module has issues. You need a meter or test light to do this.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> The Merg wrote:
>>>>> I tried jumping directly to the coil, got nothing. I think I did
>>>>> it right - it was hard to shove the cable in there, but anyway,
>>>>> this indicates a bad coil then?
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>> No.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as
>>>>>> long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the
>>>>>> key goes to run.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key
>>>>>> goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the
>>>>>> solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts
>>>>>> at a non starter.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that
>>>>>> out fast.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)