Brake line question.
05-13-2004, 12:40 AM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brake line question.
Hi Paul,
I'd use to selling replacements, say a power steering hose for
twenty five bucks, and they'd come in three pieces form the parts store,
and look like heck. After I got out of the business, say I needed a
special hose for my road tractor, the hydraulic line place would make
one up that look identical to factory, for a couple bucks.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Paul Calman wrote:
>
> You must be at Industrial liquidators. Go down the street to ORW, get the
> right hose,or one from the dealer, whatever length. Show it to the guys at
> ID and then return it.
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
I'd use to selling replacements, say a power steering hose for
twenty five bucks, and they'd come in three pieces form the parts store,
and look like heck. After I got out of the business, say I needed a
special hose for my road tractor, the hydraulic line place would make
one up that look identical to factory, for a couple bucks.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Paul Calman wrote:
>
> You must be at Industrial liquidators. Go down the street to ORW, get the
> right hose,or one from the dealer, whatever length. Show it to the guys at
> ID and then return it.
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
05-13-2004, 05:35 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brake line question.
I also have a 2.5" lift on my '81 CJ. My brake lines are stainless steel
braid. I went to a speed shop in Temecula and bought replacement parts. They
had an assortment of fittings that thread onto the calipers and brake pipes
that make the fittings for the flexable brake lines.
I made my lines about 18" long and use a throttle return spring to pull them
up and away from crap that would like to rip them off. As the axle drops,
you need a service loop, but when the axle returns to its normal position,
or gets stuffed into the wheel wells, you need the spring to reel the brake
lines in and pull them out of the way. Get some nylon wire bundle holders
and slip one over each brake line. Connect the spring to the hole that the
screw would normally occupy, and connect the other end of the spring into a
hole on the inside of the fender. Try to pick a line for the spring that is
nearly parallel to the line that the shocks travel. The spring does not need
to be perfectly parallel, but you don't want it to run an any sort of
extreme angle to the shocks. There are plenty of holes in the fender to use,
or you can make a new one.
"Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:HDBoc.9632$q_1.6703@twister.socal.rr.com...
> Bill, I know you'll have an answer for this one. I'm need to get some
> extended brakelines for the front of my 86 CJ7. (Just got the Rubicon
> express 2-1/2" lift, MX6 Shocks, gears, detroit lockers, and 1pc axles.) I
> already have a long line for the back.
> Yesterday I went to a place on Convoy to have a set made and he didn't
know
> the right Earls fittings for each end of the hoses. Anyone know what they
> are or where I can find that information? I can't afford to put the CJ
down
> for a day while I take off the old hose and take it to him for matching.
Any
> help would be great guys. PS if you live in SD this guy is much less
> expensive than going to all the other local parts houses that I know of...
> he made up my back stainless hose for less than $25.00.
> Rich
>
>
braid. I went to a speed shop in Temecula and bought replacement parts. They
had an assortment of fittings that thread onto the calipers and brake pipes
that make the fittings for the flexable brake lines.
I made my lines about 18" long and use a throttle return spring to pull them
up and away from crap that would like to rip them off. As the axle drops,
you need a service loop, but when the axle returns to its normal position,
or gets stuffed into the wheel wells, you need the spring to reel the brake
lines in and pull them out of the way. Get some nylon wire bundle holders
and slip one over each brake line. Connect the spring to the hole that the
screw would normally occupy, and connect the other end of the spring into a
hole on the inside of the fender. Try to pick a line for the spring that is
nearly parallel to the line that the shocks travel. The spring does not need
to be perfectly parallel, but you don't want it to run an any sort of
extreme angle to the shocks. There are plenty of holes in the fender to use,
or you can make a new one.
"Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:HDBoc.9632$q_1.6703@twister.socal.rr.com...
> Bill, I know you'll have an answer for this one. I'm need to get some
> extended brakelines for the front of my 86 CJ7. (Just got the Rubicon
> express 2-1/2" lift, MX6 Shocks, gears, detroit lockers, and 1pc axles.) I
> already have a long line for the back.
> Yesterday I went to a place on Convoy to have a set made and he didn't
know
> the right Earls fittings for each end of the hoses. Anyone know what they
> are or where I can find that information? I can't afford to put the CJ
down
> for a day while I take off the old hose and take it to him for matching.
Any
> help would be great guys. PS if you live in SD this guy is much less
> expensive than going to all the other local parts houses that I know of...
> he made up my back stainless hose for less than $25.00.
> Rich
>
>
05-13-2004, 05:35 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brake line question.
I also have a 2.5" lift on my '81 CJ. My brake lines are stainless steel
braid. I went to a speed shop in Temecula and bought replacement parts. They
had an assortment of fittings that thread onto the calipers and brake pipes
that make the fittings for the flexable brake lines.
I made my lines about 18" long and use a throttle return spring to pull them
up and away from crap that would like to rip them off. As the axle drops,
you need a service loop, but when the axle returns to its normal position,
or gets stuffed into the wheel wells, you need the spring to reel the brake
lines in and pull them out of the way. Get some nylon wire bundle holders
and slip one over each brake line. Connect the spring to the hole that the
screw would normally occupy, and connect the other end of the spring into a
hole on the inside of the fender. Try to pick a line for the spring that is
nearly parallel to the line that the shocks travel. The spring does not need
to be perfectly parallel, but you don't want it to run an any sort of
extreme angle to the shocks. There are plenty of holes in the fender to use,
or you can make a new one.
"Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:HDBoc.9632$q_1.6703@twister.socal.rr.com...
> Bill, I know you'll have an answer for this one. I'm need to get some
> extended brakelines for the front of my 86 CJ7. (Just got the Rubicon
> express 2-1/2" lift, MX6 Shocks, gears, detroit lockers, and 1pc axles.) I
> already have a long line for the back.
> Yesterday I went to a place on Convoy to have a set made and he didn't
know
> the right Earls fittings for each end of the hoses. Anyone know what they
> are or where I can find that information? I can't afford to put the CJ
down
> for a day while I take off the old hose and take it to him for matching.
Any
> help would be great guys. PS if you live in SD this guy is much less
> expensive than going to all the other local parts houses that I know of...
> he made up my back stainless hose for less than $25.00.
> Rich
>
>
braid. I went to a speed shop in Temecula and bought replacement parts. They
had an assortment of fittings that thread onto the calipers and brake pipes
that make the fittings for the flexable brake lines.
I made my lines about 18" long and use a throttle return spring to pull them
up and away from crap that would like to rip them off. As the axle drops,
you need a service loop, but when the axle returns to its normal position,
or gets stuffed into the wheel wells, you need the spring to reel the brake
lines in and pull them out of the way. Get some nylon wire bundle holders
and slip one over each brake line. Connect the spring to the hole that the
screw would normally occupy, and connect the other end of the spring into a
hole on the inside of the fender. Try to pick a line for the spring that is
nearly parallel to the line that the shocks travel. The spring does not need
to be perfectly parallel, but you don't want it to run an any sort of
extreme angle to the shocks. There are plenty of holes in the fender to use,
or you can make a new one.
"Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:HDBoc.9632$q_1.6703@twister.socal.rr.com...
> Bill, I know you'll have an answer for this one. I'm need to get some
> extended brakelines for the front of my 86 CJ7. (Just got the Rubicon
> express 2-1/2" lift, MX6 Shocks, gears, detroit lockers, and 1pc axles.) I
> already have a long line for the back.
> Yesterday I went to a place on Convoy to have a set made and he didn't
know
> the right Earls fittings for each end of the hoses. Anyone know what they
> are or where I can find that information? I can't afford to put the CJ
down
> for a day while I take off the old hose and take it to him for matching.
Any
> help would be great guys. PS if you live in SD this guy is much less
> expensive than going to all the other local parts houses that I know of...
> he made up my back stainless hose for less than $25.00.
> Rich
>
>
05-13-2004, 05:35 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brake line question.
I also have a 2.5" lift on my '81 CJ. My brake lines are stainless steel
braid. I went to a speed shop in Temecula and bought replacement parts. They
had an assortment of fittings that thread onto the calipers and brake pipes
that make the fittings for the flexable brake lines.
I made my lines about 18" long and use a throttle return spring to pull them
up and away from crap that would like to rip them off. As the axle drops,
you need a service loop, but when the axle returns to its normal position,
or gets stuffed into the wheel wells, you need the spring to reel the brake
lines in and pull them out of the way. Get some nylon wire bundle holders
and slip one over each brake line. Connect the spring to the hole that the
screw would normally occupy, and connect the other end of the spring into a
hole on the inside of the fender. Try to pick a line for the spring that is
nearly parallel to the line that the shocks travel. The spring does not need
to be perfectly parallel, but you don't want it to run an any sort of
extreme angle to the shocks. There are plenty of holes in the fender to use,
or you can make a new one.
"Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:HDBoc.9632$q_1.6703@twister.socal.rr.com...
> Bill, I know you'll have an answer for this one. I'm need to get some
> extended brakelines for the front of my 86 CJ7. (Just got the Rubicon
> express 2-1/2" lift, MX6 Shocks, gears, detroit lockers, and 1pc axles.) I
> already have a long line for the back.
> Yesterday I went to a place on Convoy to have a set made and he didn't
know
> the right Earls fittings for each end of the hoses. Anyone know what they
> are or where I can find that information? I can't afford to put the CJ
down
> for a day while I take off the old hose and take it to him for matching.
Any
> help would be great guys. PS if you live in SD this guy is much less
> expensive than going to all the other local parts houses that I know of...
> he made up my back stainless hose for less than $25.00.
> Rich
>
>
braid. I went to a speed shop in Temecula and bought replacement parts. They
had an assortment of fittings that thread onto the calipers and brake pipes
that make the fittings for the flexable brake lines.
I made my lines about 18" long and use a throttle return spring to pull them
up and away from crap that would like to rip them off. As the axle drops,
you need a service loop, but when the axle returns to its normal position,
or gets stuffed into the wheel wells, you need the spring to reel the brake
lines in and pull them out of the way. Get some nylon wire bundle holders
and slip one over each brake line. Connect the spring to the hole that the
screw would normally occupy, and connect the other end of the spring into a
hole on the inside of the fender. Try to pick a line for the spring that is
nearly parallel to the line that the shocks travel. The spring does not need
to be perfectly parallel, but you don't want it to run an any sort of
extreme angle to the shocks. There are plenty of holes in the fender to use,
or you can make a new one.
"Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:HDBoc.9632$q_1.6703@twister.socal.rr.com...
> Bill, I know you'll have an answer for this one. I'm need to get some
> extended brakelines for the front of my 86 CJ7. (Just got the Rubicon
> express 2-1/2" lift, MX6 Shocks, gears, detroit lockers, and 1pc axles.) I
> already have a long line for the back.
> Yesterday I went to a place on Convoy to have a set made and he didn't
know
> the right Earls fittings for each end of the hoses. Anyone know what they
> are or where I can find that information? I can't afford to put the CJ
down
> for a day while I take off the old hose and take it to him for matching.
Any
> help would be great guys. PS if you live in SD this guy is much less
> expensive than going to all the other local parts houses that I know of...
> he made up my back stainless hose for less than $25.00.
> Rich
>
>
05-13-2004, 05:35 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Brake line question.
I also have a 2.5" lift on my '81 CJ. My brake lines are stainless steel
braid. I went to a speed shop in Temecula and bought replacement parts. They
had an assortment of fittings that thread onto the calipers and brake pipes
that make the fittings for the flexable brake lines.
I made my lines about 18" long and use a throttle return spring to pull them
up and away from crap that would like to rip them off. As the axle drops,
you need a service loop, but when the axle returns to its normal position,
or gets stuffed into the wheel wells, you need the spring to reel the brake
lines in and pull them out of the way. Get some nylon wire bundle holders
and slip one over each brake line. Connect the spring to the hole that the
screw would normally occupy, and connect the other end of the spring into a
hole on the inside of the fender. Try to pick a line for the spring that is
nearly parallel to the line that the shocks travel. The spring does not need
to be perfectly parallel, but you don't want it to run an any sort of
extreme angle to the shocks. There are plenty of holes in the fender to use,
or you can make a new one.
"Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:HDBoc.9632$q_1.6703@twister.socal.rr.com...
> Bill, I know you'll have an answer for this one. I'm need to get some
> extended brakelines for the front of my 86 CJ7. (Just got the Rubicon
> express 2-1/2" lift, MX6 Shocks, gears, detroit lockers, and 1pc axles.) I
> already have a long line for the back.
> Yesterday I went to a place on Convoy to have a set made and he didn't
know
> the right Earls fittings for each end of the hoses. Anyone know what they
> are or where I can find that information? I can't afford to put the CJ
down
> for a day while I take off the old hose and take it to him for matching.
Any
> help would be great guys. PS if you live in SD this guy is much less
> expensive than going to all the other local parts houses that I know of...
> he made up my back stainless hose for less than $25.00.
> Rich
>
>
braid. I went to a speed shop in Temecula and bought replacement parts. They
had an assortment of fittings that thread onto the calipers and brake pipes
that make the fittings for the flexable brake lines.
I made my lines about 18" long and use a throttle return spring to pull them
up and away from crap that would like to rip them off. As the axle drops,
you need a service loop, but when the axle returns to its normal position,
or gets stuffed into the wheel wells, you need the spring to reel the brake
lines in and pull them out of the way. Get some nylon wire bundle holders
and slip one over each brake line. Connect the spring to the hole that the
screw would normally occupy, and connect the other end of the spring into a
hole on the inside of the fender. Try to pick a line for the spring that is
nearly parallel to the line that the shocks travel. The spring does not need
to be perfectly parallel, but you don't want it to run an any sort of
extreme angle to the shocks. There are plenty of holes in the fender to use,
or you can make a new one.
"Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:HDBoc.9632$q_1.6703@twister.socal.rr.com...
> Bill, I know you'll have an answer for this one. I'm need to get some
> extended brakelines for the front of my 86 CJ7. (Just got the Rubicon
> express 2-1/2" lift, MX6 Shocks, gears, detroit lockers, and 1pc axles.) I
> already have a long line for the back.
> Yesterday I went to a place on Convoy to have a set made and he didn't
know
> the right Earls fittings for each end of the hoses. Anyone know what they
> are or where I can find that information? I can't afford to put the CJ
down
> for a day while I take off the old hose and take it to him for matching.
Any
> help would be great guys. PS if you live in SD this guy is much less
> expensive than going to all the other local parts houses that I know of...
> he made up my back stainless hose for less than $25.00.
> Rich
>
>
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