Re: Bored over?
 

Double check the ring end gap to be at least thirteen thousandths:
http://www.powroll.com/tech_specs_pbore.htm#ring
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for
> filing?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill

Re: Bored over?
 

Double check the ring end gap to be at least thirteen thousandths:
http://www.powroll.com/tech_specs_pbore.htm#ring
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for
> filing?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill

Re: Bored over?
 

Double check the ring end gap to be at least thirteen thousandths:
http://www.powroll.com/tech_specs_pbore.htm#ring
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for
> filing?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill

Re: Bored over?
 

On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 03:50:13 UTC "Steve G"
<NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:

> That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's what you're eluding to.
>

Yet somehow I always wind up with something surprising me. The
darndest one was the ricer engine I was ringing, tho. Pulled the
pistons, went to just snap the old rings to take them off and damned
if they didn't just BEND on me! I think I could have tied a knot in
the compression rings without breaking them - darnedest thing I ever
saw. And it hasn't been that long since I had to trim a set of rings
to get the correct end gap - the stock size was basically touching (0
gap). I gave up on files, tho - a thin cutoff wheel (used as a
grinder) in a Dremel is a lot quicker and
cleaner.

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Re: Bored over?
 

On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 03:50:13 UTC "Steve G"
<NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:

> That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's what you're eluding to.
>

Yet somehow I always wind up with something surprising me. The
darndest one was the ricer engine I was ringing, tho. Pulled the
pistons, went to just snap the old rings to take them off and damned
if they didn't just BEND on me! I think I could have tied a knot in
the compression rings without breaking them - darnedest thing I ever
saw. And it hasn't been that long since I had to trim a set of rings
to get the correct end gap - the stock size was basically touching (0
gap). I gave up on files, tho - a thin cutoff wheel (used as a
grinder) in a Dremel is a lot quicker and
cleaner.

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Re: Bored over?
 

On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 03:50:13 UTC "Steve G"
<NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:

> That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's what you're eluding to.
>

Yet somehow I always wind up with something surprising me. The
darndest one was the ricer engine I was ringing, tho. Pulled the
pistons, went to just snap the old rings to take them off and damned
if they didn't just BEND on me! I think I could have tied a knot in
the compression rings without breaking them - darnedest thing I ever
saw. And it hasn't been that long since I had to trim a set of rings
to get the correct end gap - the stock size was basically touching (0
gap). I gave up on files, tho - a thin cutoff wheel (used as a
grinder) in a Dremel is a lot quicker and
cleaner.

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Re: Bored over?
 

Hi Will,
They always filed off easy for me with usually just one swipe with
an old points file. Like case iron, but I remember asking for Chrome
Molly. I used to hold my break walking a new ring around, some friends
that were engine rebuilders used to tell me, if they broke one they'd
put in an old one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Will Honea wrote:
>
> Yet somehow I always wind up with something surprising me. The
> darndest one was the ricer engine I was ringing, tho. Pulled the
> pistons, went to just snap the old rings to take them off and damned
> if they didn't just BEND on me! I think I could have tied a knot in
> the compression rings without breaking them - darnedest thing I ever
> saw. And it hasn't been that long since I had to trim a set of rings
> to get the correct end gap - the stock size was basically touching (0
> gap). I gave up on files, tho - a thin cutoff wheel (used as a
> grinder) in a Dremel is a lot quicker and
> cleaner.
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Re: Bored over?
 

Hi Will,
They always filed off easy for me with usually just one swipe with
an old points file. Like case iron, but I remember asking for Chrome
Molly. I used to hold my break walking a new ring around, some friends
that were engine rebuilders used to tell me, if they broke one they'd
put in an old one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Will Honea wrote:
>
> Yet somehow I always wind up with something surprising me. The
> darndest one was the ricer engine I was ringing, tho. Pulled the
> pistons, went to just snap the old rings to take them off and damned
> if they didn't just BEND on me! I think I could have tied a knot in
> the compression rings without breaking them - darnedest thing I ever
> saw. And it hasn't been that long since I had to trim a set of rings
> to get the correct end gap - the stock size was basically touching (0
> gap). I gave up on files, tho - a thin cutoff wheel (used as a
> grinder) in a Dremel is a lot quicker and
> cleaner.
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Re: Bored over?
 

Hi Will,
They always filed off easy for me with usually just one swipe with
an old points file. Like case iron, but I remember asking for Chrome
Molly. I used to hold my break walking a new ring around, some friends
that were engine rebuilders used to tell me, if they broke one they'd
put in an old one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Will Honea wrote:
>
> Yet somehow I always wind up with something surprising me. The
> darndest one was the ricer engine I was ringing, tho. Pulled the
> pistons, went to just snap the old rings to take them off and damned
> if they didn't just BEND on me! I think I could have tied a knot in
> the compression rings without breaking them - darnedest thing I ever
> saw. And it hasn't been that long since I had to trim a set of rings
> to get the correct end gap - the stock size was basically touching (0
> gap). I gave up on files, tho - a thin cutoff wheel (used as a
> grinder) in a Dremel is a lot quicker and
> cleaner.
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Re: Bored over?
 

You are taking on a dangerous job there Bill.

If you make an error, you will be using the engine for a boat anchor.

Trying to repair someone eles's screw up on an engine build is very
difficult.

The overbore codes for your engine are stamped on the oil filter boss
unless it has been bored out even more aftermarket.

Look close on the oil filter boss for a letter code stamped in.

If the letter B is stamped there, the cylinders are 0.010" oversized
from the factory.

There are other codes for the crank mains and rod bearings.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out
> rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number on
> top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not.
>
> All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This would
> mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get home
> but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg