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Bored over?
I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out
rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number on top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not. All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This would mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get home but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number? Thanks, Bill http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg |
Re: Bored over?
The over sized number has always been obvious to me. And would be a
very big disappointment. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ William Oliveri wrote: > > I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out > rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number on > top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not. > > All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This would > mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get home > but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number? > > Thanks, > > Bill > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg |
Re: Bored over?
The over sized number has always been obvious to me. And would be a
very big disappointment. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ William Oliveri wrote: > > I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out > rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number on > top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not. > > All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This would > mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get home > but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number? > > Thanks, > > Bill > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg |
Re: Bored over?
The over sized number has always been obvious to me. And would be a
very big disappointment. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ William Oliveri wrote: > > I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out > rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number on > top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not. > > All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This would > mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get home > but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number? > > Thanks, > > Bill > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg |
Re: Bored over?
Like the disappointment this guy must have felt, knowing the blocks
useless except maybe as a boat anchor: http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/en...eadconv/14.jpg God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote: > > The over sized number has always been obvious to me. And would be a > very big disappointment. |
Re: Bored over?
Like the disappointment this guy must have felt, knowing the blocks
useless except maybe as a boat anchor: http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/en...eadconv/14.jpg God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote: > > The over sized number has always been obvious to me. And would be a > very big disappointment. |
Re: Bored over?
Like the disappointment this guy must have felt, knowing the blocks
useless except maybe as a boat anchor: http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/en...eadconv/14.jpg God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote: > > The over sized number has always been obvious to me. And would be a > very big disappointment. |
Re: Bored over?
Why is that Bill? Because it's been bored to it's last possible bore and
the engine is needing another? I can't make out the number on the cylinder. Is that a 5? Thanks, "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:403D2B7E.6C6F99FC@cox.net... > Like the disappointment this guy must have felt, knowing the blocks > useless except maybe as a boat anchor: > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/en...eadconv/14.jpg > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote: > > > > The over sized number has always been obvious to me. And would be a > > very big disappointment. |
Re: Bored over?
Why is that Bill? Because it's been bored to it's last possible bore and
the engine is needing another? I can't make out the number on the cylinder. Is that a 5? Thanks, "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:403D2B7E.6C6F99FC@cox.net... > Like the disappointment this guy must have felt, knowing the blocks > useless except maybe as a boat anchor: > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/en...eadconv/14.jpg > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote: > > > > The over sized number has always been obvious to me. And would be a > > very big disappointment. |
Re: Bored over?
Why is that Bill? Because it's been bored to it's last possible bore and
the engine is needing another? I can't make out the number on the cylinder. Is that a 5? Thanks, "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:403D2B7E.6C6F99FC@cox.net... > Like the disappointment this guy must have felt, knowing the blocks > useless except maybe as a boat anchor: > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/en...eadconv/14.jpg > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote: > > > > The over sized number has always been obvious to me. And would be a > > very big disappointment. |
Re: Bored over?
Well, looks like I have to buy a whole set of rings for one piston and
ultimately, one ring (oil ring). Bill "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:403D2B7E.6C6F99FC@cox.net... > Like the disappointment this guy must have felt, knowing the blocks > useless except maybe as a boat anchor: > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/en...eadconv/14.jpg > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote: > > > > The over sized number has always been obvious to me. And would be a > > very big disappointment. |
Re: Bored over?
Well, looks like I have to buy a whole set of rings for one piston and
ultimately, one ring (oil ring). Bill "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:403D2B7E.6C6F99FC@cox.net... > Like the disappointment this guy must have felt, knowing the blocks > useless except maybe as a boat anchor: > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/en...eadconv/14.jpg > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote: > > > > The over sized number has always been obvious to me. And would be a > > very big disappointment. |
Re: Bored over?
Well, looks like I have to buy a whole set of rings for one piston and
ultimately, one ring (oil ring). Bill "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:403D2B7E.6C6F99FC@cox.net... > Like the disappointment this guy must have felt, knowing the blocks > useless except maybe as a boat anchor: > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/en...eadconv/14.jpg > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote: > > > > The over sized number has always been obvious to me. And would be a > > very big disappointment. |
Re: Bored over?
And a whole set of rod and main inserts, I hope you do. Remember to
file the rings for each cylinder, as you will be buying standard, tens. Ask the store's mechanist what that is, as I can't remember off hand, maybe .010? God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ |
Re: Bored over?
And a whole set of rod and main inserts, I hope you do. Remember to
file the rings for each cylinder, as you will be buying standard, tens. Ask the store's mechanist what that is, as I can't remember off hand, maybe .010? God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ |
Re: Bored over?
And a whole set of rod and main inserts, I hope you do. Remember to
file the rings for each cylinder, as you will be buying standard, tens. Ask the store's mechanist what that is, as I can't remember off hand, maybe .010? God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ |
Re: Bored over?
Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for
filing? Thanks, Bill "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:403D321D.9B9F666F@cox.net... > And a whole set of rod and main inserts, I hope you do. Remember to > file the rings for each cylinder, as you will be buying standard, tens. > Ask the store's mechanist what that is, as I can't remember off hand, > maybe .010? > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ |
Re: Bored over?
Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for
filing? Thanks, Bill "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:403D321D.9B9F666F@cox.net... > And a whole set of rod and main inserts, I hope you do. Remember to > file the rings for each cylinder, as you will be buying standard, tens. > Ask the store's mechanist what that is, as I can't remember off hand, > maybe .010? > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ |
Re: Bored over?
Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for
filing? Thanks, Bill "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:403D321D.9B9F666F@cox.net... > And a whole set of rod and main inserts, I hope you do. Remember to > file the rings for each cylinder, as you will be buying standard, tens. > Ask the store's mechanist what that is, as I can't remember off hand, > maybe .010? > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ |
Re: Bored over?
If their ends come together on normal expansion they will break.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ William Oliveri wrote: > > Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for > filing? > > Thanks, > > Bill |
Re: Bored over?
If their ends come together on normal expansion they will break.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ William Oliveri wrote: > > Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for > filing? > > Thanks, > > Bill |
Re: Bored over?
If their ends come together on normal expansion they will break.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ William Oliveri wrote: > > Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for > filing? > > Thanks, > > Bill |
Re: Bored over?
Bill-if you're planning on doing all this work yourself (more power to you!)
do yourself a favor and mosey on down to the local bookstore. do through all the books they have on engine rebuilding-even if they are for other engines. you'll get some ideas and learn some of the lingo too. if you're going to be pulling out the crank, you might as well replace all the main bearings. you'll also want to hone the cylinder to break up the glazed walls. you'll need to file down the gap on the rings so that they won't expand and break when they heat up. when putting the rings on, remember to install the gaps on consecutive rings 180 degrees from each other. before u do any of this, ask a shop to check your injectors... "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:c1j77j$1jgb4o$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de... > I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out > rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number on > top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not. > > All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This would > mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get home > but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number? > > > Thanks, > > Bill > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg > > > |
Re: Bored over?
Bill-if you're planning on doing all this work yourself (more power to you!)
do yourself a favor and mosey on down to the local bookstore. do through all the books they have on engine rebuilding-even if they are for other engines. you'll get some ideas and learn some of the lingo too. if you're going to be pulling out the crank, you might as well replace all the main bearings. you'll also want to hone the cylinder to break up the glazed walls. you'll need to file down the gap on the rings so that they won't expand and break when they heat up. when putting the rings on, remember to install the gaps on consecutive rings 180 degrees from each other. before u do any of this, ask a shop to check your injectors... "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:c1j77j$1jgb4o$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de... > I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out > rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number on > top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not. > > All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This would > mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get home > but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number? > > > Thanks, > > Bill > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg > > > |
Re: Bored over?
Bill-if you're planning on doing all this work yourself (more power to you!)
do yourself a favor and mosey on down to the local bookstore. do through all the books they have on engine rebuilding-even if they are for other engines. you'll get some ideas and learn some of the lingo too. if you're going to be pulling out the crank, you might as well replace all the main bearings. you'll also want to hone the cylinder to break up the glazed walls. you'll need to file down the gap on the rings so that they won't expand and break when they heat up. when putting the rings on, remember to install the gaps on consecutive rings 180 degrees from each other. before u do any of this, ask a shop to check your injectors... "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:c1j77j$1jgb4o$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de... > I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out > rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number on > top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not. > > All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This would > mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get home > but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number? > > > Thanks, > > Bill > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg > > > |
Re: Bored over?
Excellent point on the injectors!!! I was just thinking about this about
10 minutes earlier. Thanks for the book suggestion. Bill "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message news:Vub%b.30368$f01.10008@newssvr25.news.prodigy. com... > Bill-if you're planning on doing all this work yourself (more power to you!) > do yourself a favor and mosey on down to the local bookstore. do through > all the books they have on engine rebuilding-even if they are for other > engines. you'll get some ideas and learn some of the lingo too. if you're > going to be pulling out the crank, you might as well replace all the main > bearings. you'll also want to hone the cylinder to break up the glazed > walls. you'll need to file down the gap on the rings so that they won't > expand and break when they heat up. when putting the rings on, remember to > install the gaps on consecutive rings 180 degrees from each other. before u > do any of this, ask a shop to check your injectors... > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:c1j77j$1jgb4o$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de... > > I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out > > rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number on > > top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not. > > > > All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This > would > > mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get home > > but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bill > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg > > > > > > > > |
Re: Bored over?
Excellent point on the injectors!!! I was just thinking about this about
10 minutes earlier. Thanks for the book suggestion. Bill "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message news:Vub%b.30368$f01.10008@newssvr25.news.prodigy. com... > Bill-if you're planning on doing all this work yourself (more power to you!) > do yourself a favor and mosey on down to the local bookstore. do through > all the books they have on engine rebuilding-even if they are for other > engines. you'll get some ideas and learn some of the lingo too. if you're > going to be pulling out the crank, you might as well replace all the main > bearings. you'll also want to hone the cylinder to break up the glazed > walls. you'll need to file down the gap on the rings so that they won't > expand and break when they heat up. when putting the rings on, remember to > install the gaps on consecutive rings 180 degrees from each other. before u > do any of this, ask a shop to check your injectors... > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:c1j77j$1jgb4o$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de... > > I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out > > rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number on > > top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not. > > > > All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This > would > > mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get home > > but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bill > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg > > > > > > > > |
Re: Bored over?
Excellent point on the injectors!!! I was just thinking about this about
10 minutes earlier. Thanks for the book suggestion. Bill "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message news:Vub%b.30368$f01.10008@newssvr25.news.prodigy. com... > Bill-if you're planning on doing all this work yourself (more power to you!) > do yourself a favor and mosey on down to the local bookstore. do through > all the books they have on engine rebuilding-even if they are for other > engines. you'll get some ideas and learn some of the lingo too. if you're > going to be pulling out the crank, you might as well replace all the main > bearings. you'll also want to hone the cylinder to break up the glazed > walls. you'll need to file down the gap on the rings so that they won't > expand and break when they heat up. when putting the rings on, remember to > install the gaps on consecutive rings 180 degrees from each other. before u > do any of this, ask a shop to check your injectors... > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:c1j77j$1jgb4o$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de... > > I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out > > rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number on > > top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not. > > > > All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This > would > > mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get home > > but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bill > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg > > > > > > > > |
Re: Bored over?
Excellent!!!, one of the local shops can test the injector in question at
20.00 a pop. I'll take the suspected injector in there tomorrow and see what they find. Bill "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message news:Vub%b.30368$f01.10008@newssvr25.news.prodigy. com... > Bill-if you're planning on doing all this work yourself (more power to you!) > do yourself a favor and mosey on down to the local bookstore. do through > all the books they have on engine rebuilding-even if they are for other > engines. you'll get some ideas and learn some of the lingo too. if you're > going to be pulling out the crank, you might as well replace all the main > bearings. you'll also want to hone the cylinder to break up the glazed > walls. you'll need to file down the gap on the rings so that they won't > expand and break when they heat up. when putting the rings on, remember to > install the gaps on consecutive rings 180 degrees from each other. before u > do any of this, ask a shop to check your injectors... > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:c1j77j$1jgb4o$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de... > > I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out > > rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number on > > top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not. > > > > All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This > would > > mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get home > > but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bill > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg > > > > > > > > |
Re: Bored over?
Excellent!!!, one of the local shops can test the injector in question at
20.00 a pop. I'll take the suspected injector in there tomorrow and see what they find. Bill "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message news:Vub%b.30368$f01.10008@newssvr25.news.prodigy. com... > Bill-if you're planning on doing all this work yourself (more power to you!) > do yourself a favor and mosey on down to the local bookstore. do through > all the books they have on engine rebuilding-even if they are for other > engines. you'll get some ideas and learn some of the lingo too. if you're > going to be pulling out the crank, you might as well replace all the main > bearings. you'll also want to hone the cylinder to break up the glazed > walls. you'll need to file down the gap on the rings so that they won't > expand and break when they heat up. when putting the rings on, remember to > install the gaps on consecutive rings 180 degrees from each other. before u > do any of this, ask a shop to check your injectors... > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:c1j77j$1jgb4o$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de... > > I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out > > rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number on > > top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not. > > > > All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This > would > > mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get home > > but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bill > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg > > > > > > > > |
Re: Bored over?
Excellent!!!, one of the local shops can test the injector in question at
20.00 a pop. I'll take the suspected injector in there tomorrow and see what they find. Bill "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message news:Vub%b.30368$f01.10008@newssvr25.news.prodigy. com... > Bill-if you're planning on doing all this work yourself (more power to you!) > do yourself a favor and mosey on down to the local bookstore. do through > all the books they have on engine rebuilding-even if they are for other > engines. you'll get some ideas and learn some of the lingo too. if you're > going to be pulling out the crank, you might as well replace all the main > bearings. you'll also want to hone the cylinder to break up the glazed > walls. you'll need to file down the gap on the rings so that they won't > expand and break when they heat up. when putting the rings on, remember to > install the gaps on consecutive rings 180 degrees from each other. before u > do any of this, ask a shop to check your injectors... > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:c1j77j$1jgb4o$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de... > > I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out > > rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number on > > top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not. > > > > All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This > would > > mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get home > > but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bill > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg > > > > > > > > |
Re: Bored over?
That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's what you're eluding to.
I think I wrote this earlier and someone else mentioned it in this thread, if you've never done a major on an engine pick up a book on the general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going to get from this group to get you through is going to cost you a lot of time, money and quality of finished product. If you just went ahead and filed ring ends without knowing how much and why you'd end up with too large a ring end gap and a great place for oil to bypass. To your original question, from viewing the pictures, you will not be able to see the oversize marking on the piston without cleaning it. It is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, it is a lightly stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston and have it measured if you can't find a "std" stamping. Before you pull any pistons, rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut the ridge out of the top of the cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt enough to catch a ring and break the land on the piston and you are at high risk of damaging the piston driving it out over the ridge with all the crud that's behind the rings stopping them from compressing as much as they did when originally installed. Next, deglaze the cylinder. Check that general repair manual I described for what a proper crosshatch pattern should look like. Now set one of your rings into the cylinder. Push it down the cylinder using the piston (hold it by the con rod and place it upside down in the cyl. The top of the piston will push the ring down the cyl and keep it square to the deck). Now take a feeler gauge and check the end gap in the ring. Check that against the specs. I've yet to see a ring, other than racing rings that were intended to be hand fitted, need filing. Make sure the ring grooves in the pistons are properly cleaned out. No easy job. There is a tool for doing this but it can be done with a broken piece of old ring sharpened like a scraper at one end. Wear gloves and wrap the ring piece in a rag. The ring groove must be perfectly clean or the new ring will not be able to bottom properly and bind up between cyl wall and piston ring groove bottom. Also look for drilled holes or slots in the oil control ring groove and make sure they're open. these are the drain or return holes. Don't gouge the sides when cleaning the grooves. The sides of the grooves need to be parallel and not worn. Again a good general overhaul manual will give you an in illustration of what to look for in worn ring lands. Don't install the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What will happen then is that every second ring will have the ends line up. Randomly stagger the ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75 degree ------ should work if there are 4 ring (2 solid compression and a 3 part oil ring). When installing the rings on the piston use a proper tool for ------ing them and installing them. Easy to break the comp rings. Okay to spiral the oil control rings in place but not the comp rings. Make sure the oil rings are properly seated on the spacer. I've typed enough for tonight, but I think you get the picture. These procedures are not specific to any engine. There's a whole bunch more. You need to be familiar with them. Steve "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@cox.net... > If their ends come together on normal expansion they will break. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for > > filing? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bill |
Re: Bored over?
That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's what you're eluding to.
I think I wrote this earlier and someone else mentioned it in this thread, if you've never done a major on an engine pick up a book on the general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going to get from this group to get you through is going to cost you a lot of time, money and quality of finished product. If you just went ahead and filed ring ends without knowing how much and why you'd end up with too large a ring end gap and a great place for oil to bypass. To your original question, from viewing the pictures, you will not be able to see the oversize marking on the piston without cleaning it. It is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, it is a lightly stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston and have it measured if you can't find a "std" stamping. Before you pull any pistons, rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut the ridge out of the top of the cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt enough to catch a ring and break the land on the piston and you are at high risk of damaging the piston driving it out over the ridge with all the crud that's behind the rings stopping them from compressing as much as they did when originally installed. Next, deglaze the cylinder. Check that general repair manual I described for what a proper crosshatch pattern should look like. Now set one of your rings into the cylinder. Push it down the cylinder using the piston (hold it by the con rod and place it upside down in the cyl. The top of the piston will push the ring down the cyl and keep it square to the deck). Now take a feeler gauge and check the end gap in the ring. Check that against the specs. I've yet to see a ring, other than racing rings that were intended to be hand fitted, need filing. Make sure the ring grooves in the pistons are properly cleaned out. No easy job. There is a tool for doing this but it can be done with a broken piece of old ring sharpened like a scraper at one end. Wear gloves and wrap the ring piece in a rag. The ring groove must be perfectly clean or the new ring will not be able to bottom properly and bind up between cyl wall and piston ring groove bottom. Also look for drilled holes or slots in the oil control ring groove and make sure they're open. these are the drain or return holes. Don't gouge the sides when cleaning the grooves. The sides of the grooves need to be parallel and not worn. Again a good general overhaul manual will give you an in illustration of what to look for in worn ring lands. Don't install the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What will happen then is that every second ring will have the ends line up. Randomly stagger the ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75 degree ------ should work if there are 4 ring (2 solid compression and a 3 part oil ring). When installing the rings on the piston use a proper tool for ------ing them and installing them. Easy to break the comp rings. Okay to spiral the oil control rings in place but not the comp rings. Make sure the oil rings are properly seated on the spacer. I've typed enough for tonight, but I think you get the picture. These procedures are not specific to any engine. There's a whole bunch more. You need to be familiar with them. Steve "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@cox.net... > If their ends come together on normal expansion they will break. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for > > filing? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bill |
Re: Bored over?
That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's what you're eluding to.
I think I wrote this earlier and someone else mentioned it in this thread, if you've never done a major on an engine pick up a book on the general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going to get from this group to get you through is going to cost you a lot of time, money and quality of finished product. If you just went ahead and filed ring ends without knowing how much and why you'd end up with too large a ring end gap and a great place for oil to bypass. To your original question, from viewing the pictures, you will not be able to see the oversize marking on the piston without cleaning it. It is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, it is a lightly stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston and have it measured if you can't find a "std" stamping. Before you pull any pistons, rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut the ridge out of the top of the cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt enough to catch a ring and break the land on the piston and you are at high risk of damaging the piston driving it out over the ridge with all the crud that's behind the rings stopping them from compressing as much as they did when originally installed. Next, deglaze the cylinder. Check that general repair manual I described for what a proper crosshatch pattern should look like. Now set one of your rings into the cylinder. Push it down the cylinder using the piston (hold it by the con rod and place it upside down in the cyl. The top of the piston will push the ring down the cyl and keep it square to the deck). Now take a feeler gauge and check the end gap in the ring. Check that against the specs. I've yet to see a ring, other than racing rings that were intended to be hand fitted, need filing. Make sure the ring grooves in the pistons are properly cleaned out. No easy job. There is a tool for doing this but it can be done with a broken piece of old ring sharpened like a scraper at one end. Wear gloves and wrap the ring piece in a rag. The ring groove must be perfectly clean or the new ring will not be able to bottom properly and bind up between cyl wall and piston ring groove bottom. Also look for drilled holes or slots in the oil control ring groove and make sure they're open. these are the drain or return holes. Don't gouge the sides when cleaning the grooves. The sides of the grooves need to be parallel and not worn. Again a good general overhaul manual will give you an in illustration of what to look for in worn ring lands. Don't install the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What will happen then is that every second ring will have the ends line up. Randomly stagger the ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75 degree ------ should work if there are 4 ring (2 solid compression and a 3 part oil ring). When installing the rings on the piston use a proper tool for ------ing them and installing them. Easy to break the comp rings. Okay to spiral the oil control rings in place but not the comp rings. Make sure the oil rings are properly seated on the spacer. I've typed enough for tonight, but I think you get the picture. These procedures are not specific to any engine. There's a whole bunch more. You need to be familiar with them. Steve "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@cox.net... > If their ends come together on normal expansion they will break. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > > Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for > > filing? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bill |
Re: Bored over?
All I can say is the next time you're just going to break the glaze
on a cylinder and ring it, test it, by pushing a ring down to the bottom of the taper. Ford for one didn't sell just "standard" size any about ten years ago, but "Standard .010". Guess what means? You're probably right on oversized bores, but my friends still test them, and have found problems with the mechanist. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > Steve G wrote: > > That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and > never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std > rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should > not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's > what you're eluding to. ><snip> |
Re: Bored over?
All I can say is the next time you're just going to break the glaze
on a cylinder and ring it, test it, by pushing a ring down to the bottom of the taper. Ford for one didn't sell just "standard" size any about ten years ago, but "Standard .010". Guess what means? You're probably right on oversized bores, but my friends still test them, and have found problems with the mechanist. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > Steve G wrote: > > That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and > never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std > rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should > not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's > what you're eluding to. ><snip> |
Re: Bored over?
All I can say is the next time you're just going to break the glaze
on a cylinder and ring it, test it, by pushing a ring down to the bottom of the taper. Ford for one didn't sell just "standard" size any about ten years ago, but "Standard .010". Guess what means? You're probably right on oversized bores, but my friends still test them, and have found problems with the mechanist. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > Steve G wrote: > > That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and > never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std > rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should > not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's > what you're eluding to. ><snip> |
Re: Bored over?
Some of us don't like Hyper Text Markup Language.
From - Wed Feb 25 20:12:12 2004 Path: news1.central.cox.net!central.cox.net!news1.east.c ox.net!east.cox.net!filt01.cox.net!peer02.cox.net! cox.net!pd7cy1no!shaw.ca!pd7tw2no.POSTED!53ab2750! not-for-mail X-Trace-PostClient-IP: 24.77.45.118 From: "Steve G" Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys References: <403D2305.ECCC01EB@cox.net> <403D2B7E.6C6F99FC@cox.net> <403D321D.9B9F666F@cox.net> <403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@cox.net> Subject: Re: Bored over? Lines: 226 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_009C_01C3FBE9.734EC640" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1158 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 Message-ID: Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 03:50:13 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.71.223.147 X-Complaints-To: abuse@shaw.ca X-Trace: pd7tw2no 1077767413 24.71.223.147 (Wed, 25 Feb 2004 20:50:13 MST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 20:50:13 MST Organization: Shaw Residential Internet Xref: east.cox.net rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys:504981 X-Received-Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 22:50:12 EST (news1.central.cox.net) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_009C_01C3FBE9.734EC640 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and never = had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std rings = for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should not be = putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's what = you're eluding to.=20 I think I wrote this earlier and someone else mentioned it in this = thread, if you've never done a major on an engine pick up a book on the = general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going to get from this = group to get you through is going to cost you a lot of time, money and = quality of finished product. If you just went ahead and filed ring ends = without knowing how much and why you'd end up with too large a ring end = gap and a great place for oil to bypass. =20 To your original question, from viewing the pictures, you will not be = able to see the oversize marking on the piston without cleaning it. It = is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, it is a lightly = stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston and have it = measured if you can't find a "std" stamping. Before you pull any pistons, rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut = the ridge out of the top of the cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt = enough to catch a ring and break the land on the piston and you are at = high risk of damaging the piston driving it out over the ridge with all = the crud that's behind the rings stopping them from compressing as much = as they did when originally installed. Next, deglaze the cylinder. Check that general repair manual I = described for what a proper crosshatch pattern should look like. Now set one of your rings into the cylinder. Push it down the = cylinder using the piston (hold it by the con rod and place it upside = down in the cyl. The top of the piston will push the ring down the cyl = and keep it square to the deck). Now take a feeler gauge and check the = end gap in the ring. Check that against the specs. I've yet to see a = ring, other than racing rings that were intended to be hand fitted, need = filing.=20 Make sure the ring grooves in the pistons are properly cleaned out. = No easy job. There is a tool for doing this but it can be done with a = broken piece of old ring sharpened like a scraper at one end. Wear = gloves and wrap the ring piece in a rag. The ring groove must be = perfectly clean or the new ring will not be able to bottom properly and = bind up between cyl wall and piston ring groove bottom. Also look for = drilled holes or slots in the oil control ring groove and make sure = they're open. these are the drain or return holes. Don't gouge the = sides when cleaning the grooves. The sides of the grooves need to be = parallel and not worn. Again a good general overhaul manual will give = you an in illustration of what to look for in worn ring lands. Don't install the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What will = happen then is that every second ring will have the ends line up. = Randomly stagger the ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75 degree = ------ should work if there are 4 ring (2 solid compression and a 3 part = oil ring). When installing the rings on the piston use a proper tool for = ------ing them and installing them. Easy to break the comp rings. Okay = to spiral the oil control rings in place but not the comp rings. Make = sure the oil rings are properly seated on the spacer. I've typed enough for tonight, but I think you get the picture. These = procedures are not specific to any engine. There's a whole bunch more. = You need to be familiar with them. Steve "L.W. (=DFill) ------ III" wrote in message = news:403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@cox.net... > If their ends come together on normal expansion they will break.=20 > God Bless America, =DFill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ >=20 > William Oliveri wrote: > >=20 > > Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason = for > > filing? > >=20 > > Thanks, > >=20 > > Bill ------=_NextPart_000_009C_01C3FBE9.734EC640 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable That's bunk. I can't count the = number of=20 engines I've re-rung and never had to file a ring end. If you're = buying=20 the correct size (std rings for std bore) you will not need to file=20 anything. You should not be putting .010 rings on a standard = piston=20 and cylinder if that's what you're eluding to. I think I wrote this earlier and = someone else=20 mentioned it in this thread, if you've never done a major on an engine = pick up a=20 book on the general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going = to=20 get from this group to get you through is going to cost you a lot = of time,=20 money and quality of finished product. If you just went ahead and = filed=20 ring ends without knowing how much and why you'd end up with too = large a=20 ring end gap and a great place for oil to bypass. To your original question, from viewing = the=20 pictures, you will not be able to see the oversize marking on the piston = without=20 cleaning it. It is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, = it is a=20 lightly stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston = and have=20 it measured if you can't find a "std" stamping. Before you pull any = pistons,=20 rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut the ridge out of the top of the=20 cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt enough to catch a ring and break = the=20 land on the piston and you are at high risk of damaging the piston = driving it=20 out over the ridge with all the crud that's behind the rings stopping = them from=20 compressing as much as they did when originally installed. Next, deglaze the=20 cylinder. Check that general repair manual I described for what a = proper=20 crosshatch pattern should look like. Now set one of your = rings into=20 the cylinder. Push it down the cylinder using the piston (hold it = by the=20 con rod and place it upside down in the cyl. The top of the piston = will=20 push the ring down the cyl and keep it square to the deck). Now = take a=20 feeler gauge and check the end gap in the ring. Check that against = the=20 specs. I've yet to see a ring, other than racing rings that were = intended=20 to be hand fitted, need filing. Make sure the ring = grooves in=20 the pistons are properly cleaned out. No easy job. There is a tool = for=20 doing this but it can be done with a broken piece of old ring sharpened = like a=20 scraper at one end. Wear gloves and wrap the ring piece in a = rag. =20 The ring groove must be perfectly clean or the new ring will = not be=20 able to bottom properly and bind up between cyl wall and piston ring = groove=20 bottom. Also look for drilled holes or slots in the oil control = ring =20 groove and make sure they're open. these are the drain or return=20 holes. Don't gouge the sides when cleaning the=20 grooves. The sides of the grooves need to be parallel and not = worn. =20 Again a good general overhaul manual will give you an in illustration of = what to=20 look for in worn ring lands. = Don't install=20 the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What will happen = then is=20 that every second ring will have the ends line up. Randomly = stagger the=20 ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75 degree ------ should work = if there=20 are 4 ring (2 solid compression and a 3 part oil ring). When installing the = rings on the=20 piston use a proper tool for ------ing them and installing them. = Easy to=20 break the comp rings. Okay to spiral the oil control rings in = place but=20 not the comp rings. Make sure the oil rings are properly seated on = the=20 spacer. I've typed enough for tonight, but I = think you get=20 the picture. These procedures are not specific to any = engine. =20 There's a whole bunch more. You need to be familiar with=20 them. Steve |
Re: Bored over?
Some of us don't like Hyper Text Markup Language.
From - Wed Feb 25 20:12:12 2004 Path: news1.central.cox.net!central.cox.net!news1.east.c ox.net!east.cox.net!filt01.cox.net!peer02.cox.net! cox.net!pd7cy1no!shaw.ca!pd7tw2no.POSTED!53ab2750! not-for-mail X-Trace-PostClient-IP: 24.77.45.118 From: "Steve G" Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys References: <403D2305.ECCC01EB@cox.net> <403D2B7E.6C6F99FC@cox.net> <403D321D.9B9F666F@cox.net> <403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@cox.net> Subject: Re: Bored over? Lines: 226 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_009C_01C3FBE9.734EC640" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1158 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 Message-ID: Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 03:50:13 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.71.223.147 X-Complaints-To: abuse@shaw.ca X-Trace: pd7tw2no 1077767413 24.71.223.147 (Wed, 25 Feb 2004 20:50:13 MST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 20:50:13 MST Organization: Shaw Residential Internet Xref: east.cox.net rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys:504981 X-Received-Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 22:50:12 EST (news1.central.cox.net) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_009C_01C3FBE9.734EC640 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and never = had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std rings = for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should not be = putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's what = you're eluding to.=20 I think I wrote this earlier and someone else mentioned it in this = thread, if you've never done a major on an engine pick up a book on the = general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going to get from this = group to get you through is going to cost you a lot of time, money and = quality of finished product. If you just went ahead and filed ring ends = without knowing how much and why you'd end up with too large a ring end = gap and a great place for oil to bypass. =20 To your original question, from viewing the pictures, you will not be = able to see the oversize marking on the piston without cleaning it. It = is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, it is a lightly = stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston and have it = measured if you can't find a "std" stamping. Before you pull any pistons, rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut = the ridge out of the top of the cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt = enough to catch a ring and break the land on the piston and you are at = high risk of damaging the piston driving it out over the ridge with all = the crud that's behind the rings stopping them from compressing as much = as they did when originally installed. Next, deglaze the cylinder. Check that general repair manual I = described for what a proper crosshatch pattern should look like. Now set one of your rings into the cylinder. Push it down the = cylinder using the piston (hold it by the con rod and place it upside = down in the cyl. The top of the piston will push the ring down the cyl = and keep it square to the deck). Now take a feeler gauge and check the = end gap in the ring. Check that against the specs. I've yet to see a = ring, other than racing rings that were intended to be hand fitted, need = filing.=20 Make sure the ring grooves in the pistons are properly cleaned out. = No easy job. There is a tool for doing this but it can be done with a = broken piece of old ring sharpened like a scraper at one end. Wear = gloves and wrap the ring piece in a rag. The ring groove must be = perfectly clean or the new ring will not be able to bottom properly and = bind up between cyl wall and piston ring groove bottom. Also look for = drilled holes or slots in the oil control ring groove and make sure = they're open. these are the drain or return holes. Don't gouge the = sides when cleaning the grooves. The sides of the grooves need to be = parallel and not worn. Again a good general overhaul manual will give = you an in illustration of what to look for in worn ring lands. Don't install the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What will = happen then is that every second ring will have the ends line up. = Randomly stagger the ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75 degree = ------ should work if there are 4 ring (2 solid compression and a 3 part = oil ring). When installing the rings on the piston use a proper tool for = ------ing them and installing them. Easy to break the comp rings. Okay = to spiral the oil control rings in place but not the comp rings. Make = sure the oil rings are properly seated on the spacer. I've typed enough for tonight, but I think you get the picture. These = procedures are not specific to any engine. There's a whole bunch more. = You need to be familiar with them. Steve "L.W. (=DFill) ------ III" wrote in message = news:403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@cox.net... > If their ends come together on normal expansion they will break.=20 > God Bless America, =DFill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ >=20 > William Oliveri wrote: > >=20 > > Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason = for > > filing? > >=20 > > Thanks, > >=20 > > Bill ------=_NextPart_000_009C_01C3FBE9.734EC640 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable That's bunk. I can't count the = number of=20 engines I've re-rung and never had to file a ring end. If you're = buying=20 the correct size (std rings for std bore) you will not need to file=20 anything. You should not be putting .010 rings on a standard = piston=20 and cylinder if that's what you're eluding to. I think I wrote this earlier and = someone else=20 mentioned it in this thread, if you've never done a major on an engine = pick up a=20 book on the general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going = to=20 get from this group to get you through is going to cost you a lot = of time,=20 money and quality of finished product. If you just went ahead and = filed=20 ring ends without knowing how much and why you'd end up with too = large a=20 ring end gap and a great place for oil to bypass. To your original question, from viewing = the=20 pictures, you will not be able to see the oversize marking on the piston = without=20 cleaning it. It is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, = it is a=20 lightly stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston = and have=20 it measured if you can't find a "std" stamping. Before you pull any = pistons,=20 rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut the ridge out of the top of the=20 cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt enough to catch a ring and break = the=20 land on the piston and you are at high risk of damaging the piston = driving it=20 out over the ridge with all the crud that's behind the rings stopping = them from=20 compressing as much as they did when originally installed. Next, deglaze the=20 cylinder. Check that general repair manual I described for what a = proper=20 crosshatch pattern should look like. Now set one of your = rings into=20 the cylinder. Push it down the cylinder using the piston (hold it = by the=20 con rod and place it upside down in the cyl. The top of the piston = will=20 push the ring down the cyl and keep it square to the deck). Now = take a=20 feeler gauge and check the end gap in the ring. Check that against = the=20 specs. I've yet to see a ring, other than racing rings that were = intended=20 to be hand fitted, need filing. Make sure the ring = grooves in=20 the pistons are properly cleaned out. No easy job. There is a tool = for=20 doing this but it can be done with a broken piece of old ring sharpened = like a=20 scraper at one end. Wear gloves and wrap the ring piece in a = rag. =20 The ring groove must be perfectly clean or the new ring will = not be=20 able to bottom properly and bind up between cyl wall and piston ring = groove=20 bottom. Also look for drilled holes or slots in the oil control = ring =20 groove and make sure they're open. these are the drain or return=20 holes. Don't gouge the sides when cleaning the=20 grooves. The sides of the grooves need to be parallel and not = worn. =20 Again a good general overhaul manual will give you an in illustration of = what to=20 look for in worn ring lands. = Don't install=20 the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What will happen = then is=20 that every second ring will have the ends line up. Randomly = stagger the=20 ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75 degree ------ should work = if there=20 are 4 ring (2 solid compression and a 3 part oil ring). When installing the = rings on the=20 piston use a proper tool for ------ing them and installing them. = Easy to=20 break the comp rings. Okay to spiral the oil control rings in = place but=20 not the comp rings. Make sure the oil rings are properly seated on = the=20 spacer. I've typed enough for tonight, but I = think you get=20 the picture. These procedures are not specific to any = engine. =20 There's a whole bunch more. You need to be familiar with=20 them. Steve |
Re: Bored over?
Some of us don't like Hyper Text Markup Language.
From - Wed Feb 25 20:12:12 2004 Path: news1.central.cox.net!central.cox.net!news1.east.c ox.net!east.cox.net!filt01.cox.net!peer02.cox.net! cox.net!pd7cy1no!shaw.ca!pd7tw2no.POSTED!53ab2750! not-for-mail X-Trace-PostClient-IP: 24.77.45.118 From: "Steve G" Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys References: <403D2305.ECCC01EB@cox.net> <403D2B7E.6C6F99FC@cox.net> <403D321D.9B9F666F@cox.net> <403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@cox.net> Subject: Re: Bored over? Lines: 226 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_009C_01C3FBE9.734EC640" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1158 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 Message-ID: Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 03:50:13 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 24.71.223.147 X-Complaints-To: abuse@shaw.ca X-Trace: pd7tw2no 1077767413 24.71.223.147 (Wed, 25 Feb 2004 20:50:13 MST) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 20:50:13 MST Organization: Shaw Residential Internet Xref: east.cox.net rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys:504981 X-Received-Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 22:50:12 EST (news1.central.cox.net) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_009C_01C3FBE9.734EC640 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and never = had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std rings = for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should not be = putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's what = you're eluding to.=20 I think I wrote this earlier and someone else mentioned it in this = thread, if you've never done a major on an engine pick up a book on the = general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going to get from this = group to get you through is going to cost you a lot of time, money and = quality of finished product. If you just went ahead and filed ring ends = without knowing how much and why you'd end up with too large a ring end = gap and a great place for oil to bypass. =20 To your original question, from viewing the pictures, you will not be = able to see the oversize marking on the piston without cleaning it. It = is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, it is a lightly = stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston and have it = measured if you can't find a "std" stamping. Before you pull any pistons, rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut = the ridge out of the top of the cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt = enough to catch a ring and break the land on the piston and you are at = high risk of damaging the piston driving it out over the ridge with all = the crud that's behind the rings stopping them from compressing as much = as they did when originally installed. Next, deglaze the cylinder. Check that general repair manual I = described for what a proper crosshatch pattern should look like. Now set one of your rings into the cylinder. Push it down the = cylinder using the piston (hold it by the con rod and place it upside = down in the cyl. The top of the piston will push the ring down the cyl = and keep it square to the deck). Now take a feeler gauge and check the = end gap in the ring. Check that against the specs. I've yet to see a = ring, other than racing rings that were intended to be hand fitted, need = filing.=20 Make sure the ring grooves in the pistons are properly cleaned out. = No easy job. There is a tool for doing this but it can be done with a = broken piece of old ring sharpened like a scraper at one end. Wear = gloves and wrap the ring piece in a rag. The ring groove must be = perfectly clean or the new ring will not be able to bottom properly and = bind up between cyl wall and piston ring groove bottom. Also look for = drilled holes or slots in the oil control ring groove and make sure = they're open. these are the drain or return holes. Don't gouge the = sides when cleaning the grooves. The sides of the grooves need to be = parallel and not worn. Again a good general overhaul manual will give = you an in illustration of what to look for in worn ring lands. Don't install the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What will = happen then is that every second ring will have the ends line up. = Randomly stagger the ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75 degree = ------ should work if there are 4 ring (2 solid compression and a 3 part = oil ring). When installing the rings on the piston use a proper tool for = ------ing them and installing them. Easy to break the comp rings. Okay = to spiral the oil control rings in place but not the comp rings. Make = sure the oil rings are properly seated on the spacer. I've typed enough for tonight, but I think you get the picture. These = procedures are not specific to any engine. There's a whole bunch more. = You need to be familiar with them. Steve "L.W. (=DFill) ------ III" wrote in message = news:403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@cox.net... > If their ends come together on normal expansion they will break.=20 > God Bless America, =DFill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ >=20 > William Oliveri wrote: > >=20 > > Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason = for > > filing? > >=20 > > Thanks, > >=20 > > Bill ------=_NextPart_000_009C_01C3FBE9.734EC640 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable That's bunk. I can't count the = number of=20 engines I've re-rung and never had to file a ring end. If you're = buying=20 the correct size (std rings for std bore) you will not need to file=20 anything. You should not be putting .010 rings on a standard = piston=20 and cylinder if that's what you're eluding to. I think I wrote this earlier and = someone else=20 mentioned it in this thread, if you've never done a major on an engine = pick up a=20 book on the general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going = to=20 get from this group to get you through is going to cost you a lot = of time,=20 money and quality of finished product. If you just went ahead and = filed=20 ring ends without knowing how much and why you'd end up with too = large a=20 ring end gap and a great place for oil to bypass. To your original question, from viewing = the=20 pictures, you will not be able to see the oversize marking on the piston = without=20 cleaning it. It is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, = it is a=20 lightly stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston = and have=20 it measured if you can't find a "std" stamping. Before you pull any = pistons,=20 rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut the ridge out of the top of the=20 cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt enough to catch a ring and break = the=20 land on the piston and you are at high risk of damaging the piston = driving it=20 out over the ridge with all the crud that's behind the rings stopping = them from=20 compressing as much as they did when originally installed. Next, deglaze the=20 cylinder. Check that general repair manual I described for what a = proper=20 crosshatch pattern should look like. Now set one of your = rings into=20 the cylinder. Push it down the cylinder using the piston (hold it = by the=20 con rod and place it upside down in the cyl. The top of the piston = will=20 push the ring down the cyl and keep it square to the deck). Now = take a=20 feeler gauge and check the end gap in the ring. Check that against = the=20 specs. I've yet to see a ring, other than racing rings that were = intended=20 to be hand fitted, need filing. Make sure the ring = grooves in=20 the pistons are properly cleaned out. No easy job. There is a tool = for=20 doing this but it can be done with a broken piece of old ring sharpened = like a=20 scraper at one end. Wear gloves and wrap the ring piece in a = rag. =20 The ring groove must be perfectly clean or the new ring will = not be=20 able to bottom properly and bind up between cyl wall and piston ring = groove=20 bottom. Also look for drilled holes or slots in the oil control = ring =20 groove and make sure they're open. these are the drain or return=20 holes. Don't gouge the sides when cleaning the=20 grooves. The sides of the grooves need to be parallel and not = worn. =20 Again a good general overhaul manual will give you an in illustration of = what to=20 look for in worn ring lands. = Don't install=20 the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What will happen = then is=20 that every second ring will have the ends line up. Randomly = stagger the=20 ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75 degree ------ should work = if there=20 are 4 ring (2 solid compression and a 3 part oil ring). When installing the = rings on the=20 piston use a proper tool for ------ing them and installing them. = Easy to=20 break the comp rings. Okay to spiral the oil control rings in = place but=20 not the comp rings. Make sure the oil rings are properly seated on = the=20 spacer. I've typed enough for tonight, but I = think you get=20 the picture. These procedures are not specific to any = engine. =20 There's a whole bunch more. You need to be familiar with=20 them. Steve |
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