William Oliveri

Excellent!!!, one of the local shops can test the injector in question at
20.00 a pop. I'll take the suspected injector in there tomorrow and see
what they find.


Bill



"serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
news:Vub%b.30368$f01.10008@newssvr25.news.prodigy. com...
> Bill-if you're planning on doing all this work yourself (more power to
you!)
> do yourself a favor and mosey on down to the local bookstore. do through
> all the books they have on engine rebuilding-even if they are for other
> engines. you'll get some ideas and learn some of the lingo too. if
you're
> going to be pulling out the crank, you might as well replace all the main
> bearings. you'll also want to hone the cylinder to break up the glazed
> walls. you'll need to file down the gap on the rings so that they won't
> expand and break when they heat up. when putting the rings on, remember
to
> install the gaps on consecutive rings 180 degrees from each other. before
u
> do any of this, ask a shop to check your injectors...
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:c1j77j$1jgb4o$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I just got through talking with a local parts store trying to scope out
> > rings for this piston and the parts guys said there should be a number
on
> > top of the piston that would indicate whether it was bored over or not.
> >
> > All I can see is an arrow pointing to the direction of install. This
> would
> > mean the pistons are all stock? I can take a closer look when I get
home
> > but if I can see the arrow should I not be able to see the bore number?
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg
> > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg
> > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg
> >
> >
> >
>
>

Steve G

That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's what you're eluding to.
I think I wrote this earlier and someone else mentioned it in this thread, if you've never done a major on an engine pick up a book on the general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going to get from this group to get you through is going to cost you a lot of time, money and quality of finished product. If you just went ahead and filed ring ends without knowing how much and why you'd end up with too large a ring end gap and a great place for oil to bypass.

To your original question, from viewing the pictures, you will not be able to see the oversize marking on the piston without cleaning it. It is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, it is a lightly stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston and have it measured if you can't find a "std" stamping.
Before you pull any pistons, rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut the ridge out of the top of the cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt enough to catch a ring and break the land on the piston and you are at high risk of damaging the piston driving it out over the ridge with all the crud that's behind the rings stopping them from compressing as much as they did when originally installed.
Next, deglaze the cylinder. Check that general repair manual I described for what a proper crosshatch pattern should look like.
Now set one of your rings into the cylinder. Push it down the cylinder using the piston (hold it by the con rod and place it upside down in the cyl. The top of the piston will push the ring down the cyl and keep it square to the deck). Now take a feeler gauge and check the end gap in the ring. Check that against the specs. I've yet to see a ring, other than racing rings that were intended to be hand fitted, need filing.
Make sure the ring grooves in the pistons are properly cleaned out. No easy job. There is a tool for doing this but it can be done with a broken piece of old ring sharpened like a scraper at one end. Wear gloves and wrap the ring piece in a rag. The ring groove must be perfectly clean or the new ring will not be able to bottom properly and bind up between cyl wall and piston ring groove bottom. Also look for drilled holes or slots in the oil control ring groove and make sure they're open. these are the drain or return holes. Don't gouge the sides when cleaning the grooves. The sides of the grooves need to be parallel and not worn. Again a good general overhaul manual will give you an in illustration of what to look for in worn ring lands.
Don't install the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What will happen then is that every second ring will have the ends line up. Randomly stagger the ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75 degree ------ should work if there are 4 ring (2 solid compression and a 3 part oil ring).
When installing the rings on the piston use a proper tool for ------ing them and installing them. Easy to break the comp rings. Okay to spiral the oil control rings in place but not the comp rings. Make sure the oil rings are properly seated on the spacer.

I've typed enough for tonight, but I think you get the picture. These procedures are not specific to any engine. There's a whole bunch more. You need to be familiar with them.
Steve
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@***.net...
> If their ends come together on normal expansion they will break.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for
> > filing?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill

Steve G

That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's what you're eluding to.
I think I wrote this earlier and someone else mentioned it in this thread, if you've never done a major on an engine pick up a book on the general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going to get from this group to get you through is going to cost you a lot of time, money and quality of finished product. If you just went ahead and filed ring ends without knowing how much and why you'd end up with too large a ring end gap and a great place for oil to bypass.

To your original question, from viewing the pictures, you will not be able to see the oversize marking on the piston without cleaning it. It is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, it is a lightly stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston and have it measured if you can't find a "std" stamping.
Before you pull any pistons, rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut the ridge out of the top of the cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt enough to catch a ring and break the land on the piston and you are at high risk of damaging the piston driving it out over the ridge with all the crud that's behind the rings stopping them from compressing as much as they did when originally installed.
Next, deglaze the cylinder. Check that general repair manual I described for what a proper crosshatch pattern should look like.
Now set one of your rings into the cylinder. Push it down the cylinder using the piston (hold it by the con rod and place it upside down in the cyl. The top of the piston will push the ring down the cyl and keep it square to the deck). Now take a feeler gauge and check the end gap in the ring. Check that against the specs. I've yet to see a ring, other than racing rings that were intended to be hand fitted, need filing.
Make sure the ring grooves in the pistons are properly cleaned out. No easy job. There is a tool for doing this but it can be done with a broken piece of old ring sharpened like a scraper at one end. Wear gloves and wrap the ring piece in a rag. The ring groove must be perfectly clean or the new ring will not be able to bottom properly and bind up between cyl wall and piston ring groove bottom. Also look for drilled holes or slots in the oil control ring groove and make sure they're open. these are the drain or return holes. Don't gouge the sides when cleaning the grooves. The sides of the grooves need to be parallel and not worn. Again a good general overhaul manual will give you an in illustration of what to look for in worn ring lands.
Don't install the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What will happen then is that every second ring will have the ends line up. Randomly stagger the ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75 degree ------ should work if there are 4 ring (2 solid compression and a 3 part oil ring).
When installing the rings on the piston use a proper tool for ------ing them and installing them. Easy to break the comp rings. Okay to spiral the oil control rings in place but not the comp rings. Make sure the oil rings are properly seated on the spacer.

I've typed enough for tonight, but I think you get the picture. These procedures are not specific to any engine. There's a whole bunch more. You need to be familiar with them.
Steve
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@***.net...
> If their ends come together on normal expansion they will break.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for
> > filing?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill

Steve G

That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's what you're eluding to.
I think I wrote this earlier and someone else mentioned it in this thread, if you've never done a major on an engine pick up a book on the general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going to get from this group to get you through is going to cost you a lot of time, money and quality of finished product. If you just went ahead and filed ring ends without knowing how much and why you'd end up with too large a ring end gap and a great place for oil to bypass.

To your original question, from viewing the pictures, you will not be able to see the oversize marking on the piston without cleaning it. It is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, it is a lightly stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston and have it measured if you can't find a "std" stamping.
Before you pull any pistons, rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut the ridge out of the top of the cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt enough to catch a ring and break the land on the piston and you are at high risk of damaging the piston driving it out over the ridge with all the crud that's behind the rings stopping them from compressing as much as they did when originally installed.
Next, deglaze the cylinder. Check that general repair manual I described for what a proper crosshatch pattern should look like.
Now set one of your rings into the cylinder. Push it down the cylinder using the piston (hold it by the con rod and place it upside down in the cyl. The top of the piston will push the ring down the cyl and keep it square to the deck). Now take a feeler gauge and check the end gap in the ring. Check that against the specs. I've yet to see a ring, other than racing rings that were intended to be hand fitted, need filing.
Make sure the ring grooves in the pistons are properly cleaned out. No easy job. There is a tool for doing this but it can be done with a broken piece of old ring sharpened like a scraper at one end. Wear gloves and wrap the ring piece in a rag. The ring groove must be perfectly clean or the new ring will not be able to bottom properly and bind up between cyl wall and piston ring groove bottom. Also look for drilled holes or slots in the oil control ring groove and make sure they're open. these are the drain or return holes. Don't gouge the sides when cleaning the grooves. The sides of the grooves need to be parallel and not worn. Again a good general overhaul manual will give you an in illustration of what to look for in worn ring lands.
Don't install the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What will happen then is that every second ring will have the ends line up. Randomly stagger the ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75 degree ------ should work if there are 4 ring (2 solid compression and a 3 part oil ring).
When installing the rings on the piston use a proper tool for ------ing them and installing them. Easy to break the comp rings. Okay to spiral the oil control rings in place but not the comp rings. Make sure the oil rings are properly seated on the spacer.

I've typed enough for tonight, but I think you get the picture. These procedures are not specific to any engine. There's a whole bunch more. You need to be familiar with them.
Steve
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@***.net...
> If their ends come together on normal expansion they will break.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for
> > filing?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

All I can say is the next time you're just going to break the glaze
on a cylinder and ring it, test it, by pushing a ring down to the bottom
of the taper. Ford for one didn't sell just "standard" size any about
ten years ago, but "Standard .010". Guess what means? You're probably
right on oversized bores, but my friends still test them, and have found
problems with the mechanist.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

> Steve G wrote:
>
> That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and
> never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std
> rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should
> not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's
> what you're eluding to.
><snip>

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

All I can say is the next time you're just going to break the glaze
on a cylinder and ring it, test it, by pushing a ring down to the bottom
of the taper. Ford for one didn't sell just "standard" size any about
ten years ago, but "Standard .010". Guess what means? You're probably
right on oversized bores, but my friends still test them, and have found
problems with the mechanist.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

> Steve G wrote:
>
> That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and
> never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std
> rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should
> not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's
> what you're eluding to.
><snip>

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

All I can say is the next time you're just going to break the glaze
on a cylinder and ring it, test it, by pushing a ring down to the bottom
of the taper. Ford for one didn't sell just "standard" size any about
ten years ago, but "Standard .010". Guess what means? You're probably
right on oversized bores, but my friends still test them, and have found
problems with the mechanist.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

> Steve G wrote:
>
> That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and
> never had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std
> rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should
> not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's
> what you're eluding to.
><snip>

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Some of us don't like Hyper Text Markup Language.

From - Wed Feb 25 20:12:12 2004 Path:
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quoted-printable That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've
re-rung and never = had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct
size (std rings = for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You
should not be = putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if
that's what = you're eluding to.=20 I think I wrote this earlier and
someone else mentioned it in this = thread, if you've never done a major
on an engine pick up a book on the = general procedures. Relying on the
advise you're going to get from this = group to get you through is going
to cost you a lot of time, money and = quality of finished product. If
you just went ahead and filed ring ends = without knowing how much and
why you'd end up with too large a ring end = gap and a great place for
oil to bypass. =20 To your original question, from viewing the pictures,
you will not be = able to see the oversize marking on the piston without
cleaning it. It = is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, it
is a lightly = stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston
and have it = measured if you can't find a "std" stamping. Before you
pull any pistons, rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut = the ridge out
of the top of the cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt = enough to catch a
ring and break the land on the piston and you are at = high risk of
damaging the piston driving it out over the ridge with all = the crud
that's behind the rings stopping them from compressing as much = as they
did when originally installed. Next, deglaze the cylinder. Check that
general repair manual I = described for what a proper crosshatch pattern
should look like. Now set one of your rings into the cylinder. Push it
down the = cylinder using the piston (hold it by the con rod and place
it upside = down in the cyl. The top of the piston will push the ring
down the cyl = and keep it square to the deck). Now take a feeler gauge
and check the = end gap in the ring. Check that against the specs. I've
yet to see a = ring, other than racing rings that were intended to be
hand fitted, need = filing.=20 Make sure the ring grooves in the pistons
are properly cleaned out. = No easy job. There is a tool for doing this
but it can be done with a = broken piece of old ring sharpened like a
scraper at one end. Wear = gloves and wrap the ring piece in a rag. The
ring groove must be = perfectly clean or the new ring will not be able
to bottom properly and = bind up between cyl wall and piston ring groove
bottom. Also look for = drilled holes or slots in the oil control ring
groove and make sure = they're open. these are the drain or return
holes. Don't gouge the = sides when cleaning the grooves. The sides of
the grooves need to be = parallel and not worn. Again a good general
overhaul manual will give = you an in illustration of what to look for
in worn ring lands. Don't install the ring ends 180 degrees from each
other. What will = happen then is that every second ring will have the
ends line up. = Randomly stagger the ends so none of them line up. 60 or
75 degree = ------ should work if there are 4 ring (2 solid compression
and a 3 part = oil ring). When installing the rings on the piston use a
proper tool for = ------ing them and installing them. Easy to break the
comp rings. Okay = to spiral the oil control rings in place but not the
comp rings. Make = sure the oil rings are properly seated on the spacer.
I've typed enough for tonight, but I think you get the picture. These =
procedures are not specific to any engine. There's a whole bunch more. =
You need to be familiar with them. Steve "L.W. (=DFill) ------ III"
wrote in message = news:403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@***.net... > If their ends
come together on normal expansion they will break.=20 > God Bless
America, =DFill O|||||||O > mailto:--------------------
http://www.----------.com/ >=20 > William Oliveri wrote: > >=20 > >
Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason =
for > > filing? > >=20 > > Thanks, > >=20 > > Bill
------=_NextPart_000_009C_01C3FBE9.734EC640 Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
That's bunk. I can't count the = number of=20 engines I've re-rung and
never had to file a ring end. If you're = buying=20 the correct size
(std rings for std bore) you will not need to file=20 anything. You
should not be putting .010 rings on a standard = piston=20 and cylinder
if that's what you're eluding to.
I think I wrote this earlier and = someone else=20 mentioned it in this
thread, if you've never done a major on an engine = pick up a=20 book on
the general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going = to=20 get
from this group to get you through is going to cost you a lot = of
time,=20 money and quality of finished product. If you just went ahead
and = filed=20 ring ends without knowing how much and why you'd end up
with too = large a=20 ring end gap and a great place for oil to
bypass.

To your original question, from viewing = the=20 pictures, you will not
be able to see the oversize marking on the piston = without=20 cleaning
it. It is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, = it is a=20
lightly stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston = and
have=20 it measured if you can't find a "std" stamping.
Before you pull any = pistons,=20 rent or borrow a ridge remover and
cut the ridge out of the top of the=20 cylinder. The ridge can be
abrupt enough to catch a ring and break = the=20 land on the piston and
you are at high risk of damaging the piston = driving it=20 out over the
ridge with all the crud that's behind the rings stopping = them from=20
compressing as much as they did when originally installed.
Next, deglaze the=20 cylinder. Check that general repair manual I
described for what a = proper=20 crosshatch pattern should look like.
Now set one of your = rings into=20 the cylinder. Push it down the
cylinder using the piston (hold it = by the=20 con rod and place it
upside down in the cyl. The top of the piston = will=20 push the ring
down the cyl and keep it square to the deck). Now = take a=20 feeler
gauge and check the end gap in the ring. Check that against = the=20
specs. I've yet to see a ring, other than racing rings that were =
intended=20 to be hand fitted, need filing.
Make sure the ring = grooves in=20 the pistons are properly cleaned
out. No easy job. There is a tool = for=20 doing this but it can be
done with a broken piece of old ring sharpened = like a=20 scraper at
one end. Wear gloves and wrap the ring piece in a = rag. =20 The ring
groove must be perfectly clean or the new ring will = not be=20 able to
bottom properly and bind up between cyl wall and piston ring = groove=20
bottom. Also look for drilled holes or slots in the oil control = ring
=20 groove and make sure they're open. these are the drain or return=20
holes. Don't gouge the sides when cleaning the=20 grooves. The sides of
the grooves need to be parallel and not = worn. =20 Again a good general
overhaul manual will give you an in illustration of = what to=20 look
for in worn ring lands.
= Don't install=20 the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What
will happen = then is=20 that every second ring will have the ends line
up. Randomly = stagger the=20 ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75
degree ------ should work = if there=20 are 4 ring (2 solid compression
and a 3 part oil ring).
When installing the = rings on the=20 piston use a proper tool for
------ing them and installing them. = Easy to=20 break the comp rings.
Okay to spiral the oil control rings in = place but=20 not the comp
rings. Make sure the oil rings are properly seated on = the=20 spacer.

I've typed enough for tonight, but I = think you get=20 the picture.
These procedures are not specific to any = engine. =20 There's a whole
bunch more. You need to be familiar with=20 them.
Steve

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Some of us don't like Hyper Text Markup Language.

From - Wed Feb 25 20:12:12 2004 Path:
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1077767413 24.71.223.147 (Wed, 25 Feb 2004 20:50:13 MST)
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22:50:12 EST (news1.central.***.net) This is a multi-part message in
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quoted-printable That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've
re-rung and never = had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct
size (std rings = for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You
should not be = putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if
that's what = you're eluding to.=20 I think I wrote this earlier and
someone else mentioned it in this = thread, if you've never done a major
on an engine pick up a book on the = general procedures. Relying on the
advise you're going to get from this = group to get you through is going
to cost you a lot of time, money and = quality of finished product. If
you just went ahead and filed ring ends = without knowing how much and
why you'd end up with too large a ring end = gap and a great place for
oil to bypass. =20 To your original question, from viewing the pictures,
you will not be = able to see the oversize marking on the piston without
cleaning it. It = is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, it
is a lightly = stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston
and have it = measured if you can't find a "std" stamping. Before you
pull any pistons, rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut = the ridge out
of the top of the cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt = enough to catch a
ring and break the land on the piston and you are at = high risk of
damaging the piston driving it out over the ridge with all = the crud
that's behind the rings stopping them from compressing as much = as they
did when originally installed. Next, deglaze the cylinder. Check that
general repair manual I = described for what a proper crosshatch pattern
should look like. Now set one of your rings into the cylinder. Push it
down the = cylinder using the piston (hold it by the con rod and place
it upside = down in the cyl. The top of the piston will push the ring
down the cyl = and keep it square to the deck). Now take a feeler gauge
and check the = end gap in the ring. Check that against the specs. I've
yet to see a = ring, other than racing rings that were intended to be
hand fitted, need = filing.=20 Make sure the ring grooves in the pistons
are properly cleaned out. = No easy job. There is a tool for doing this
but it can be done with a = broken piece of old ring sharpened like a
scraper at one end. Wear = gloves and wrap the ring piece in a rag. The
ring groove must be = perfectly clean or the new ring will not be able
to bottom properly and = bind up between cyl wall and piston ring groove
bottom. Also look for = drilled holes or slots in the oil control ring
groove and make sure = they're open. these are the drain or return
holes. Don't gouge the = sides when cleaning the grooves. The sides of
the grooves need to be = parallel and not worn. Again a good general
overhaul manual will give = you an in illustration of what to look for
in worn ring lands. Don't install the ring ends 180 degrees from each
other. What will = happen then is that every second ring will have the
ends line up. = Randomly stagger the ends so none of them line up. 60 or
75 degree = ------ should work if there are 4 ring (2 solid compression
and a 3 part = oil ring). When installing the rings on the piston use a
proper tool for = ------ing them and installing them. Easy to break the
comp rings. Okay = to spiral the oil control rings in place but not the
comp rings. Make = sure the oil rings are properly seated on the spacer.
I've typed enough for tonight, but I think you get the picture. These =
procedures are not specific to any engine. There's a whole bunch more. =
You need to be familiar with them. Steve "L.W. (=DFill) ------ III"
wrote in message = news:403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@***.net... > If their ends
come together on normal expansion they will break.=20 > God Bless
America, =DFill O|||||||O > mailto:--------------------
http://www.----------.com/ >=20 > William Oliveri wrote: > >=20 > >
Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason =
for > > filing? > >=20 > > Thanks, > >=20 > > Bill
------=_NextPart_000_009C_01C3FBE9.734EC640 Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
That's bunk. I can't count the = number of=20 engines I've re-rung and
never had to file a ring end. If you're = buying=20 the correct size
(std rings for std bore) you will not need to file=20 anything. You
should not be putting .010 rings on a standard = piston=20 and cylinder
if that's what you're eluding to.
I think I wrote this earlier and = someone else=20 mentioned it in this
thread, if you've never done a major on an engine = pick up a=20 book on
the general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going = to=20 get
from this group to get you through is going to cost you a lot = of
time,=20 money and quality of finished product. If you just went ahead
and = filed=20 ring ends without knowing how much and why you'd end up
with too = large a=20 ring end gap and a great place for oil to
bypass.

To your original question, from viewing = the=20 pictures, you will not
be able to see the oversize marking on the piston = without=20 cleaning
it. It is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, = it is a=20
lightly stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston = and
have=20 it measured if you can't find a "std" stamping.
Before you pull any = pistons,=20 rent or borrow a ridge remover and
cut the ridge out of the top of the=20 cylinder. The ridge can be
abrupt enough to catch a ring and break = the=20 land on the piston and
you are at high risk of damaging the piston = driving it=20 out over the
ridge with all the crud that's behind the rings stopping = them from=20
compressing as much as they did when originally installed.
Next, deglaze the=20 cylinder. Check that general repair manual I
described for what a = proper=20 crosshatch pattern should look like.
Now set one of your = rings into=20 the cylinder. Push it down the
cylinder using the piston (hold it = by the=20 con rod and place it
upside down in the cyl. The top of the piston = will=20 push the ring
down the cyl and keep it square to the deck). Now = take a=20 feeler
gauge and check the end gap in the ring. Check that against = the=20
specs. I've yet to see a ring, other than racing rings that were =
intended=20 to be hand fitted, need filing.
Make sure the ring = grooves in=20 the pistons are properly cleaned
out. No easy job. There is a tool = for=20 doing this but it can be
done with a broken piece of old ring sharpened = like a=20 scraper at
one end. Wear gloves and wrap the ring piece in a = rag. =20 The ring
groove must be perfectly clean or the new ring will = not be=20 able to
bottom properly and bind up between cyl wall and piston ring = groove=20
bottom. Also look for drilled holes or slots in the oil control = ring
=20 groove and make sure they're open. these are the drain or return=20
holes. Don't gouge the sides when cleaning the=20 grooves. The sides of
the grooves need to be parallel and not = worn. =20 Again a good general
overhaul manual will give you an in illustration of = what to=20 look
for in worn ring lands.
= Don't install=20 the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What
will happen = then is=20 that every second ring will have the ends line
up. Randomly = stagger the=20 ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75
degree ------ should work = if there=20 are 4 ring (2 solid compression
and a 3 part oil ring).
When installing the = rings on the=20 piston use a proper tool for
------ing them and installing them. = Easy to=20 break the comp rings.
Okay to spiral the oil control rings in = place but=20 not the comp
rings. Make sure the oil rings are properly seated on = the=20 spacer.

I've typed enough for tonight, but I = think you get=20 the picture.
These procedures are not specific to any = engine. =20 There's a whole
bunch more. You need to be familiar with=20 them.
Steve

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Some of us don't like Hyper Text Markup Language.

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quoted-printable That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've
re-rung and never = had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct
size (std rings = for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You
should not be = putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if
that's what = you're eluding to.=20 I think I wrote this earlier and
someone else mentioned it in this = thread, if you've never done a major
on an engine pick up a book on the = general procedures. Relying on the
advise you're going to get from this = group to get you through is going
to cost you a lot of time, money and = quality of finished product. If
you just went ahead and filed ring ends = without knowing how much and
why you'd end up with too large a ring end = gap and a great place for
oil to bypass. =20 To your original question, from viewing the pictures,
you will not be = able to see the oversize marking on the piston without
cleaning it. It = is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, it
is a lightly = stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston
and have it = measured if you can't find a "std" stamping. Before you
pull any pistons, rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut = the ridge out
of the top of the cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt = enough to catch a
ring and break the land on the piston and you are at = high risk of
damaging the piston driving it out over the ridge with all = the crud
that's behind the rings stopping them from compressing as much = as they
did when originally installed. Next, deglaze the cylinder. Check that
general repair manual I = described for what a proper crosshatch pattern
should look like. Now set one of your rings into the cylinder. Push it
down the = cylinder using the piston (hold it by the con rod and place
it upside = down in the cyl. The top of the piston will push the ring
down the cyl = and keep it square to the deck). Now take a feeler gauge
and check the = end gap in the ring. Check that against the specs. I've
yet to see a = ring, other than racing rings that were intended to be
hand fitted, need = filing.=20 Make sure the ring grooves in the pistons
are properly cleaned out. = No easy job. There is a tool for doing this
but it can be done with a = broken piece of old ring sharpened like a
scraper at one end. Wear = gloves and wrap the ring piece in a rag. The
ring groove must be = perfectly clean or the new ring will not be able
to bottom properly and = bind up between cyl wall and piston ring groove
bottom. Also look for = drilled holes or slots in the oil control ring
groove and make sure = they're open. these are the drain or return
holes. Don't gouge the = sides when cleaning the grooves. The sides of
the grooves need to be = parallel and not worn. Again a good general
overhaul manual will give = you an in illustration of what to look for
in worn ring lands. Don't install the ring ends 180 degrees from each
other. What will = happen then is that every second ring will have the
ends line up. = Randomly stagger the ends so none of them line up. 60 or
75 degree = ------ should work if there are 4 ring (2 solid compression
and a 3 part = oil ring). When installing the rings on the piston use a
proper tool for = ------ing them and installing them. Easy to break the
comp rings. Okay = to spiral the oil control rings in place but not the
comp rings. Make = sure the oil rings are properly seated on the spacer.
I've typed enough for tonight, but I think you get the picture. These =
procedures are not specific to any engine. There's a whole bunch more. =
You need to be familiar with them. Steve "L.W. (=DFill) ------ III"
wrote in message = news:403D36ED.7FBD8EEA@***.net... > If their ends
come together on normal expansion they will break.=20 > God Bless
America, =DFill O|||||||O > mailto:--------------------
http://www.----------.com/ >=20 > William Oliveri wrote: > >=20 > >
Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason =
for > > filing? > >=20 > > Thanks, > >=20 > > Bill
------=_NextPart_000_009C_01C3FBE9.734EC640 Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
That's bunk. I can't count the = number of=20 engines I've re-rung and
never had to file a ring end. If you're = buying=20 the correct size
(std rings for std bore) you will not need to file=20 anything. You
should not be putting .010 rings on a standard = piston=20 and cylinder
if that's what you're eluding to.
I think I wrote this earlier and = someone else=20 mentioned it in this
thread, if you've never done a major on an engine = pick up a=20 book on
the general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going = to=20 get
from this group to get you through is going to cost you a lot = of
time,=20 money and quality of finished product. If you just went ahead
and = filed=20 ring ends without knowing how much and why you'd end up
with too = large a=20 ring end gap and a great place for oil to
bypass.

To your original question, from viewing = the=20 pictures, you will not
be able to see the oversize marking on the piston = without=20 cleaning
it. It is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, = it is a=20
lightly stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston = and
have=20 it measured if you can't find a "std" stamping.
Before you pull any = pistons,=20 rent or borrow a ridge remover and
cut the ridge out of the top of the=20 cylinder. The ridge can be
abrupt enough to catch a ring and break = the=20 land on the piston and
you are at high risk of damaging the piston = driving it=20 out over the
ridge with all the crud that's behind the rings stopping = them from=20
compressing as much as they did when originally installed.
Next, deglaze the=20 cylinder. Check that general repair manual I
described for what a = proper=20 crosshatch pattern should look like.
Now set one of your = rings into=20 the cylinder. Push it down the
cylinder using the piston (hold it = by the=20 con rod and place it
upside down in the cyl. The top of the piston = will=20 push the ring
down the cyl and keep it square to the deck). Now = take a=20 feeler
gauge and check the end gap in the ring. Check that against = the=20
specs. I've yet to see a ring, other than racing rings that were =
intended=20 to be hand fitted, need filing.
Make sure the ring = grooves in=20 the pistons are properly cleaned
out. No easy job. There is a tool = for=20 doing this but it can be
done with a broken piece of old ring sharpened = like a=20 scraper at
one end. Wear gloves and wrap the ring piece in a = rag. =20 The ring
groove must be perfectly clean or the new ring will = not be=20 able to
bottom properly and bind up between cyl wall and piston ring = groove=20
bottom. Also look for drilled holes or slots in the oil control = ring
=20 groove and make sure they're open. these are the drain or return=20
holes. Don't gouge the sides when cleaning the=20 grooves. The sides of
the grooves need to be parallel and not = worn. =20 Again a good general
overhaul manual will give you an in illustration of = what to=20 look
for in worn ring lands.
= Don't install=20 the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What
will happen = then is=20 that every second ring will have the ends line
up. Randomly = stagger the=20 ends so none of them line up. 60 or 75
degree ------ should work = if there=20 are 4 ring (2 solid compression
and a 3 part oil ring).
When installing the = rings on the=20 piston use a proper tool for
------ing them and installing them. = Easy to=20 break the comp rings.
Okay to spiral the oil control rings in = place but=20 not the comp
rings. Make sure the oil rings are properly seated on = the=20 spacer.

I've typed enough for tonight, but I = think you get=20 the picture.
These procedures are not specific to any = engine. =20 There's a whole
bunch more. You need to be familiar with=20 them.
Steve