BLEEDING HELP PLEASE Time is $$$$$$$
11-09-2005, 02:54 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: BLEEDING HELP PLEASE Time is $$$$$$$
Bleed some more. I would/did start all over at the rear. Sometimes you
have to do 3 or more go arounds. The air was still in the prop' valve
and now that the fronts are pushing fluid, some is still likely in the
rear circuit.
You also need to manually adjust the rear brake shoes 'first' to get a
proper pedal and especially a proper bleed. This is evident if you pump
the pedal really fast with the engine on and the pedal comes up in
height from the first hit.
If it takes two or more pumps to fill up the rear lines so the pedal
raises, the air won't get pumped out of the prop valve or the rear
lines.
You use the star wheel to adjust the shoes so the rear wheel grabs, then
you back it off a couple clicks by using a small screwdriver to hold the
auto adjuster clip up.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jack-Jack wrote:
>
> alright then I figured out the valve BUT while we get reasonable pedal
> pressure with the engine off we start it and while the fronts grab real
> well the pedal is still pure mush?
>
> Any thoughts
have to do 3 or more go arounds. The air was still in the prop' valve
and now that the fronts are pushing fluid, some is still likely in the
rear circuit.
You also need to manually adjust the rear brake shoes 'first' to get a
proper pedal and especially a proper bleed. This is evident if you pump
the pedal really fast with the engine on and the pedal comes up in
height from the first hit.
If it takes two or more pumps to fill up the rear lines so the pedal
raises, the air won't get pumped out of the prop valve or the rear
lines.
You use the star wheel to adjust the shoes so the rear wheel grabs, then
you back it off a couple clicks by using a small screwdriver to hold the
auto adjuster clip up.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jack-Jack wrote:
>
> alright then I figured out the valve BUT while we get reasonable pedal
> pressure with the engine off we start it and while the fronts grab real
> well the pedal is still pure mush?
>
> Any thoughts
11-09-2005, 02:54 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: BLEEDING HELP PLEASE Time is $$$$$$$
Bleed some more. I would/did start all over at the rear. Sometimes you
have to do 3 or more go arounds. The air was still in the prop' valve
and now that the fronts are pushing fluid, some is still likely in the
rear circuit.
You also need to manually adjust the rear brake shoes 'first' to get a
proper pedal and especially a proper bleed. This is evident if you pump
the pedal really fast with the engine on and the pedal comes up in
height from the first hit.
If it takes two or more pumps to fill up the rear lines so the pedal
raises, the air won't get pumped out of the prop valve or the rear
lines.
You use the star wheel to adjust the shoes so the rear wheel grabs, then
you back it off a couple clicks by using a small screwdriver to hold the
auto adjuster clip up.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jack-Jack wrote:
>
> alright then I figured out the valve BUT while we get reasonable pedal
> pressure with the engine off we start it and while the fronts grab real
> well the pedal is still pure mush?
>
> Any thoughts
have to do 3 or more go arounds. The air was still in the prop' valve
and now that the fronts are pushing fluid, some is still likely in the
rear circuit.
You also need to manually adjust the rear brake shoes 'first' to get a
proper pedal and especially a proper bleed. This is evident if you pump
the pedal really fast with the engine on and the pedal comes up in
height from the first hit.
If it takes two or more pumps to fill up the rear lines so the pedal
raises, the air won't get pumped out of the prop valve or the rear
lines.
You use the star wheel to adjust the shoes so the rear wheel grabs, then
you back it off a couple clicks by using a small screwdriver to hold the
auto adjuster clip up.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jack-Jack wrote:
>
> alright then I figured out the valve BUT while we get reasonable pedal
> pressure with the engine off we start it and while the fronts grab real
> well the pedal is still pure mush?
>
> Any thoughts
11-09-2005, 02:54 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: BLEEDING HELP PLEASE Time is $$$$$$$
Bleed some more. I would/did start all over at the rear. Sometimes you
have to do 3 or more go arounds. The air was still in the prop' valve
and now that the fronts are pushing fluid, some is still likely in the
rear circuit.
You also need to manually adjust the rear brake shoes 'first' to get a
proper pedal and especially a proper bleed. This is evident if you pump
the pedal really fast with the engine on and the pedal comes up in
height from the first hit.
If it takes two or more pumps to fill up the rear lines so the pedal
raises, the air won't get pumped out of the prop valve or the rear
lines.
You use the star wheel to adjust the shoes so the rear wheel grabs, then
you back it off a couple clicks by using a small screwdriver to hold the
auto adjuster clip up.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jack-Jack wrote:
>
> alright then I figured out the valve BUT while we get reasonable pedal
> pressure with the engine off we start it and while the fronts grab real
> well the pedal is still pure mush?
>
> Any thoughts
have to do 3 or more go arounds. The air was still in the prop' valve
and now that the fronts are pushing fluid, some is still likely in the
rear circuit.
You also need to manually adjust the rear brake shoes 'first' to get a
proper pedal and especially a proper bleed. This is evident if you pump
the pedal really fast with the engine on and the pedal comes up in
height from the first hit.
If it takes two or more pumps to fill up the rear lines so the pedal
raises, the air won't get pumped out of the prop valve or the rear
lines.
You use the star wheel to adjust the shoes so the rear wheel grabs, then
you back it off a couple clicks by using a small screwdriver to hold the
auto adjuster clip up.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jack-Jack wrote:
>
> alright then I figured out the valve BUT while we get reasonable pedal
> pressure with the engine off we start it and while the fronts grab real
> well the pedal is still pure mush?
>
> Any thoughts
11-09-2005, 07:15 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: BLEEDING HELP PLEASE Time is $$$$$$$
Well......
You just put all the fittings into the valve. One is likely loose,
hence the leak and likely the air in the lines.
How did you do that and not know there was a rubber cap on the valve
pin?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jack-Jack wrote:
>
> Now this!
>
> Now I come to find that the prop valve has small rubber **** on the
> side of it and we have a leak...does that mean it is shot?
You just put all the fittings into the valve. One is likely loose,
hence the leak and likely the air in the lines.
How did you do that and not know there was a rubber cap on the valve
pin?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jack-Jack wrote:
>
> Now this!
>
> Now I come to find that the prop valve has small rubber **** on the
> side of it and we have a leak...does that mean it is shot?