One other thought, Mike. The factory manual calls for a "3mm thick bead" of
the anaerobic sealer, placed from the center of the bolt hole, along the
edge of the cap right up to the edge of the tabbed ear on the lower seal
half. That can be misleading, they mean (according to a Jeep tech buddy) to
make the bead 3mm TALL, which is a lot of sealer. Compression of the stuff
when the main was tapped into place and torqued down made it ooze under the
seal at the ends.

Frankly I just think this is one block where the seal clearance is too
loose. Compared to any others I've done the upper seal half pops right out
when pushed on. Others I've done may require loosening one or two other main
caps, not this guy.

As for the size of the leak, it';s not like it's a gusher. This ewngine
doesn't use 1 qt between 3000 mi oil changes, just makes a mess on my garage
floor.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> 5 times?
>
> Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> hours before adding oil or something?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
day,
> > a
> > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> >
> > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
miles.
> > We'll see how long this one goes.

 

Oh, and yess, I always let it sit for at least a day before filling it with
oil & firing it up....and watching the leak!
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cf5cj00g22@enews1.newsguy.com...
> I've always used RTV, or in this case, the factory recommended anaerobic
> sealer on the main cap edges. It's dry as a bone right now, but I have no
> faith it will hold long before it starts to drip again. The book calls for
> Loctite 515 as the sealer to use on the main cap, but the Permatx
Anaerobic
> sealer is the same stuff and a factory recommended alternative. There's
> conflicting sentiment on the use of RTV on the main cap, the factory says
> no, but some sources like Haynes say yes. Whatever, RTV doesn't work well
on
> this engine.
> The seal that came out looked as good as the new one. The only sign of
> seepage was a tiny bit on the bottom of the main cap at the seal edge.
But,
> this may simply be where it collected before ending up on my garage floor!
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> > 5 times?
> >
> > Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> > hours before adding oil or something?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Jerry McG wrote:
> > >
> > > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
> day,
> > > a
> > > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> > >
> > > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
> miles.
> > > We'll see how long this one goes.
>
>

 

Oh, and yess, I always let it sit for at least a day before filling it with
oil & firing it up....and watching the leak!
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cf5cj00g22@enews1.newsguy.com...
> I've always used RTV, or in this case, the factory recommended anaerobic
> sealer on the main cap edges. It's dry as a bone right now, but I have no
> faith it will hold long before it starts to drip again. The book calls for
> Loctite 515 as the sealer to use on the main cap, but the Permatx
Anaerobic
> sealer is the same stuff and a factory recommended alternative. There's
> conflicting sentiment on the use of RTV on the main cap, the factory says
> no, but some sources like Haynes say yes. Whatever, RTV doesn't work well
on
> this engine.
> The seal that came out looked as good as the new one. The only sign of
> seepage was a tiny bit on the bottom of the main cap at the seal edge.
But,
> this may simply be where it collected before ending up on my garage floor!
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> > 5 times?
> >
> > Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> > hours before adding oil or something?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Jerry McG wrote:
> > >
> > > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
> day,
> > > a
> > > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> > >
> > > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
> miles.
> > > We'll see how long this one goes.
>
>

 

Oh, and yess, I always let it sit for at least a day before filling it with
oil & firing it up....and watching the leak!
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cf5cj00g22@enews1.newsguy.com...
> I've always used RTV, or in this case, the factory recommended anaerobic
> sealer on the main cap edges. It's dry as a bone right now, but I have no
> faith it will hold long before it starts to drip again. The book calls for
> Loctite 515 as the sealer to use on the main cap, but the Permatx
Anaerobic
> sealer is the same stuff and a factory recommended alternative. There's
> conflicting sentiment on the use of RTV on the main cap, the factory says
> no, but some sources like Haynes say yes. Whatever, RTV doesn't work well
on
> this engine.
> The seal that came out looked as good as the new one. The only sign of
> seepage was a tiny bit on the bottom of the main cap at the seal edge.
But,
> this may simply be where it collected before ending up on my garage floor!
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> > 5 times?
> >
> > Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> > hours before adding oil or something?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Jerry McG wrote:
> > >
> > > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
> day,
> > > a
> > > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> > >
> > > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
> miles.
> > > We'll see how long this one goes.
>
>

 

Oh, and yess, I always let it sit for at least a day before filling it with
oil & firing it up....and watching the leak!
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cf5cj00g22@enews1.newsguy.com...
> I've always used RTV, or in this case, the factory recommended anaerobic
> sealer on the main cap edges. It's dry as a bone right now, but I have no
> faith it will hold long before it starts to drip again. The book calls for
> Loctite 515 as the sealer to use on the main cap, but the Permatx
Anaerobic
> sealer is the same stuff and a factory recommended alternative. There's
> conflicting sentiment on the use of RTV on the main cap, the factory says
> no, but some sources like Haynes say yes. Whatever, RTV doesn't work well
on
> this engine.
> The seal that came out looked as good as the new one. The only sign of
> seepage was a tiny bit on the bottom of the main cap at the seal edge.
But,
> this may simply be where it collected before ending up on my garage floor!
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> > 5 times?
> >
> > Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> > hours before adding oil or something?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Jerry McG wrote:
> > >
> > > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
> day,
> > > a
> > > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> > >
> > > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
> miles.
> > > We'll see how long this one goes.
>
>

 

Maybe it's time to swap the rear bearing for a new one.... How is the
oil pressure. If the pressure is low or really swingy, that is a sign
of a worn main bearing.

I am always picky and aware of drying times. RTV is tricky. If it
doesn't get it's cure time, then it is a 50/50 crap shoot for leaks.

I even use big spot lights and heaters on areas for 24 hours that have
RTV to cure if the temp is below 'room'.

3 mm for a bead isn't much either, that is about the size of an HB
pencil lead.

Mike

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> One other thought, Mike. The factory manual calls for a "3mm thick bead" of
> the anaerobic sealer, placed from the center of the bolt hole, along the
> edge of the cap right up to the edge of the tabbed ear on the lower seal
> half. That can be misleading, they mean (according to a Jeep tech buddy) to
> make the bead 3mm TALL, which is a lot of sealer. Compression of the stuff
> when the main was tapped into place and torqued down made it ooze under the
> seal at the ends.
>
> Frankly I just think this is one block where the seal clearance is too
> loose. Compared to any others I've done the upper seal half pops right out
> when pushed on. Others I've done may require loosening one or two other main
> caps, not this guy.
>
> As for the size of the leak, it';s not like it's a gusher. This ewngine
> doesn't use 1 qt between 3000 mi oil changes, just makes a mess on my garage
> floor.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> > 5 times?
> >
> > Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> > hours before adding oil or something?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Jerry McG wrote:
> > >
> > > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
> day,
> > > a
> > > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> > >
> > > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
> miles.
> > > We'll see how long this one goes.

 

Maybe it's time to swap the rear bearing for a new one.... How is the
oil pressure. If the pressure is low or really swingy, that is a sign
of a worn main bearing.

I am always picky and aware of drying times. RTV is tricky. If it
doesn't get it's cure time, then it is a 50/50 crap shoot for leaks.

I even use big spot lights and heaters on areas for 24 hours that have
RTV to cure if the temp is below 'room'.

3 mm for a bead isn't much either, that is about the size of an HB
pencil lead.

Mike

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> One other thought, Mike. The factory manual calls for a "3mm thick bead" of
> the anaerobic sealer, placed from the center of the bolt hole, along the
> edge of the cap right up to the edge of the tabbed ear on the lower seal
> half. That can be misleading, they mean (according to a Jeep tech buddy) to
> make the bead 3mm TALL, which is a lot of sealer. Compression of the stuff
> when the main was tapped into place and torqued down made it ooze under the
> seal at the ends.
>
> Frankly I just think this is one block where the seal clearance is too
> loose. Compared to any others I've done the upper seal half pops right out
> when pushed on. Others I've done may require loosening one or two other main
> caps, not this guy.
>
> As for the size of the leak, it';s not like it's a gusher. This ewngine
> doesn't use 1 qt between 3000 mi oil changes, just makes a mess on my garage
> floor.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> > 5 times?
> >
> > Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> > hours before adding oil or something?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Jerry McG wrote:
> > >
> > > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
> day,
> > > a
> > > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> > >
> > > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
> miles.
> > > We'll see how long this one goes.

 

Maybe it's time to swap the rear bearing for a new one.... How is the
oil pressure. If the pressure is low or really swingy, that is a sign
of a worn main bearing.

I am always picky and aware of drying times. RTV is tricky. If it
doesn't get it's cure time, then it is a 50/50 crap shoot for leaks.

I even use big spot lights and heaters on areas for 24 hours that have
RTV to cure if the temp is below 'room'.

3 mm for a bead isn't much either, that is about the size of an HB
pencil lead.

Mike

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> One other thought, Mike. The factory manual calls for a "3mm thick bead" of
> the anaerobic sealer, placed from the center of the bolt hole, along the
> edge of the cap right up to the edge of the tabbed ear on the lower seal
> half. That can be misleading, they mean (according to a Jeep tech buddy) to
> make the bead 3mm TALL, which is a lot of sealer. Compression of the stuff
> when the main was tapped into place and torqued down made it ooze under the
> seal at the ends.
>
> Frankly I just think this is one block where the seal clearance is too
> loose. Compared to any others I've done the upper seal half pops right out
> when pushed on. Others I've done may require loosening one or two other main
> caps, not this guy.
>
> As for the size of the leak, it';s not like it's a gusher. This ewngine
> doesn't use 1 qt between 3000 mi oil changes, just makes a mess on my garage
> floor.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> > 5 times?
> >
> > Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> > hours before adding oil or something?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Jerry McG wrote:
> > >
> > > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
> day,
> > > a
> > > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> > >
> > > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
> miles.
> > > We'll see how long this one goes.

 

Maybe it's time to swap the rear bearing for a new one.... How is the
oil pressure. If the pressure is low or really swingy, that is a sign
of a worn main bearing.

I am always picky and aware of drying times. RTV is tricky. If it
doesn't get it's cure time, then it is a 50/50 crap shoot for leaks.

I even use big spot lights and heaters on areas for 24 hours that have
RTV to cure if the temp is below 'room'.

3 mm for a bead isn't much either, that is about the size of an HB
pencil lead.

Mike

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> One other thought, Mike. The factory manual calls for a "3mm thick bead" of
> the anaerobic sealer, placed from the center of the bolt hole, along the
> edge of the cap right up to the edge of the tabbed ear on the lower seal
> half. That can be misleading, they mean (according to a Jeep tech buddy) to
> make the bead 3mm TALL, which is a lot of sealer. Compression of the stuff
> when the main was tapped into place and torqued down made it ooze under the
> seal at the ends.
>
> Frankly I just think this is one block where the seal clearance is too
> loose. Compared to any others I've done the upper seal half pops right out
> when pushed on. Others I've done may require loosening one or two other main
> caps, not this guy.
>
> As for the size of the leak, it';s not like it's a gusher. This ewngine
> doesn't use 1 qt between 3000 mi oil changes, just makes a mess on my garage
> floor.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> > 5 times?
> >
> > Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> > hours before adding oil or something?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Jerry McG wrote:
> > >
> > > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
> day,
> > > a
> > > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> > >
> > > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
> miles.
> > > We'll see how long this one goes.

 

Oil pressure is excellent, 50 - 55 lbs at cruising rpm depending upon oil
temp. 25lbs+ at hot idle.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4116404D.8DE9BBB8@sympatico.ca...
> Maybe it's time to swap the rear bearing for a new one.... How is the
> oil pressure. If the pressure is low or really swingy, that is a sign
> of a worn main bearing.
>
> I am always picky and aware of drying times. RTV is tricky. If it
> doesn't get it's cure time, then it is a 50/50 crap shoot for leaks.
>
> I even use big spot lights and heaters on areas for 24 hours that have
> RTV to cure if the temp is below 'room'.
>
> 3 mm for a bead isn't much either, that is about the size of an HB
> pencil lead.
>
> Mike
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > One other thought, Mike. The factory manual calls for a "3mm thick bead"
of
> > the anaerobic sealer, placed from the center of the bolt hole, along the
> > edge of the cap right up to the edge of the tabbed ear on the lower seal
> > half. That can be misleading, they mean (according to a Jeep tech buddy)
to
> > make the bead 3mm TALL, which is a lot of sealer. Compression of the
stuff
> > when the main was tapped into place and torqued down made it ooze under
the
> > seal at the ends.
> >
> > Frankly I just think this is one block where the seal clearance is too
> > loose. Compared to any others I've done the upper seal half pops right
out
> > when pushed on. Others I've done may require loosening one or two other
main
> > caps, not this guy.
> >
> > As for the size of the leak, it';s not like it's a gusher. This ewngine
> > doesn't use 1 qt between 3000 mi oil changes, just makes a mess on my
garage
> > floor.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> > > 5 times?
> > >
> > > Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required
24
> > > hours before adding oil or something?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Jerry McG wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be
a
> > day,
> > > > a
> > > > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > > > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> > > >
> > > > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
> > miles.
> > > > We'll see how long this one goes.