5 times?

Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
hours before adding oil or something?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a day,
> a
> week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
>
> I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k miles.
> We'll see how long this one goes.

 

5 times?

Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
hours before adding oil or something?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a day,
> a
> week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
>
> I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k miles.
> We'll see how long this one goes.

 

5 times?

Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
hours before adding oil or something?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a day,
> a
> week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
>
> I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k miles.
> We'll see how long this one goes.

 

I've always used RTV, or in this case, the factory recommended anaerobic
sealer on the main cap edges. It's dry as a bone right now, but I have no
faith it will hold long before it starts to drip again. The book calls for
Loctite 515 as the sealer to use on the main cap, but the Permatx Anaerobic
sealer is the same stuff and a factory recommended alternative. There's
conflicting sentiment on the use of RTV on the main cap, the factory says
no, but some sources like Haynes say yes. Whatever, RTV doesn't work well on
this engine.
The seal that came out looked as good as the new one. The only sign of
seepage was a tiny bit on the bottom of the main cap at the seal edge. But,
this may simply be where it collected before ending up on my garage floor!

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> 5 times?
>
> Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> hours before adding oil or something?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
day,
> > a
> > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> >
> > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
miles.
> > We'll see how long this one goes.

 

I've always used RTV, or in this case, the factory recommended anaerobic
sealer on the main cap edges. It's dry as a bone right now, but I have no
faith it will hold long before it starts to drip again. The book calls for
Loctite 515 as the sealer to use on the main cap, but the Permatx Anaerobic
sealer is the same stuff and a factory recommended alternative. There's
conflicting sentiment on the use of RTV on the main cap, the factory says
no, but some sources like Haynes say yes. Whatever, RTV doesn't work well on
this engine.
The seal that came out looked as good as the new one. The only sign of
seepage was a tiny bit on the bottom of the main cap at the seal edge. But,
this may simply be where it collected before ending up on my garage floor!

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> 5 times?
>
> Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> hours before adding oil or something?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
day,
> > a
> > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> >
> > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
miles.
> > We'll see how long this one goes.

 

I've always used RTV, or in this case, the factory recommended anaerobic
sealer on the main cap edges. It's dry as a bone right now, but I have no
faith it will hold long before it starts to drip again. The book calls for
Loctite 515 as the sealer to use on the main cap, but the Permatx Anaerobic
sealer is the same stuff and a factory recommended alternative. There's
conflicting sentiment on the use of RTV on the main cap, the factory says
no, but some sources like Haynes say yes. Whatever, RTV doesn't work well on
this engine.
The seal that came out looked as good as the new one. The only sign of
seepage was a tiny bit on the bottom of the main cap at the seal edge. But,
this may simply be where it collected before ending up on my garage floor!

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> 5 times?
>
> Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> hours before adding oil or something?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
day,
> > a
> > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> >
> > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
miles.
> > We'll see how long this one goes.

 

I've always used RTV, or in this case, the factory recommended anaerobic
sealer on the main cap edges. It's dry as a bone right now, but I have no
faith it will hold long before it starts to drip again. The book calls for
Loctite 515 as the sealer to use on the main cap, but the Permatx Anaerobic
sealer is the same stuff and a factory recommended alternative. There's
conflicting sentiment on the use of RTV on the main cap, the factory says
no, but some sources like Haynes say yes. Whatever, RTV doesn't work well on
this engine.
The seal that came out looked as good as the new one. The only sign of
seepage was a tiny bit on the bottom of the main cap at the seal edge. But,
this may simply be where it collected before ending up on my garage floor!

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> 5 times?
>
> Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> hours before adding oil or something?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
day,
> > a
> > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> >
> > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
miles.
> > We'll see how long this one goes.

 

One other thought, Mike. The factory manual calls for a "3mm thick bead" of
the anaerobic sealer, placed from the center of the bolt hole, along the
edge of the cap right up to the edge of the tabbed ear on the lower seal
half. That can be misleading, they mean (according to a Jeep tech buddy) to
make the bead 3mm TALL, which is a lot of sealer. Compression of the stuff
when the main was tapped into place and torqued down made it ooze under the
seal at the ends.

Frankly I just think this is one block where the seal clearance is too
loose. Compared to any others I've done the upper seal half pops right out
when pushed on. Others I've done may require loosening one or two other main
caps, not this guy.

As for the size of the leak, it';s not like it's a gusher. This ewngine
doesn't use 1 qt between 3000 mi oil changes, just makes a mess on my garage
floor.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> 5 times?
>
> Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> hours before adding oil or something?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
day,
> > a
> > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> >
> > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
miles.
> > We'll see how long this one goes.

 

One other thought, Mike. The factory manual calls for a "3mm thick bead" of
the anaerobic sealer, placed from the center of the bolt hole, along the
edge of the cap right up to the edge of the tabbed ear on the lower seal
half. That can be misleading, they mean (according to a Jeep tech buddy) to
make the bead 3mm TALL, which is a lot of sealer. Compression of the stuff
when the main was tapped into place and torqued down made it ooze under the
seal at the ends.

Frankly I just think this is one block where the seal clearance is too
loose. Compared to any others I've done the upper seal half pops right out
when pushed on. Others I've done may require loosening one or two other main
caps, not this guy.

As for the size of the leak, it';s not like it's a gusher. This ewngine
doesn't use 1 qt between 3000 mi oil changes, just makes a mess on my garage
floor.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> 5 times?
>
> Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> hours before adding oil or something?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
day,
> > a
> > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> >
> > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
miles.
> > We'll see how long this one goes.

 

One other thought, Mike. The factory manual calls for a "3mm thick bead" of
the anaerobic sealer, placed from the center of the bolt hole, along the
edge of the cap right up to the edge of the tabbed ear on the lower seal
half. That can be misleading, they mean (according to a Jeep tech buddy) to
make the bead 3mm TALL, which is a lot of sealer. Compression of the stuff
when the main was tapped into place and torqued down made it ooze under the
seal at the ends.

Frankly I just think this is one block where the seal clearance is too
loose. Compared to any others I've done the upper seal half pops right out
when pushed on. Others I've done may require loosening one or two other main
caps, not this guy.

As for the size of the leak, it';s not like it's a gusher. This ewngine
doesn't use 1 qt between 3000 mi oil changes, just makes a mess on my garage
floor.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41162393.F14B0DA9@sympatico.ca...
> 5 times?
>
> Wow, are you using RTV on it and not letting it cure for the required 24
> hours before adding oil or something?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > > It'll come back, no matter how many times you change it. It may be a
day,
> > a
> > week, or a month max, but it will come back. Just think of it as
> > preservative for the bottom of your tub and drive train.>
> >
> > I know, since it was new it's been replaced at least 5 times in 65k
miles.
> > We'll see how long this one goes.