Black Diamond Suspension Lift Installed-questions
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Black Diamond Suspension Lift Installed-questions
Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
wheel shake and the shifting.
I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only when
making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only during a
tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop will make a
difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my digicam and post
them on the web if you want to see anything.
The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on my
old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the steering
stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?
The shifting is fine if you pull the boot off. The boot just seems to be
bunching up under the stick. Do they make some kind of a shifter
extender or even and offset? If the shifter was offset an inch or so to
the front then all would be cool. Thanks again guys. Much appreciation
for your help.
Jay
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>Hi Jerry,
> Yes, there is no vibration at the constant velocity universal joint
>end that's usually at the transfer end, but there a heck of a vibration
>at the single universal slip yoke end, if it's not straight with the
>shaft. That's we always point the pinion directly at the transfer as in
>the rear driveshaft:
>http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>Jerry McG wrote:
>
>
>>Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
>>you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.
>>
>>TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
>>driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
>>about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
>>should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
>>a custom shaft.
>>
>>
things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
wheel shake and the shifting.
I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only when
making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only during a
tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop will make a
difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my digicam and post
them on the web if you want to see anything.
The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on my
old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the steering
stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?
The shifting is fine if you pull the boot off. The boot just seems to be
bunching up under the stick. Do they make some kind of a shifter
extender or even and offset? If the shifter was offset an inch or so to
the front then all would be cool. Thanks again guys. Much appreciation
for your help.
Jay
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>Hi Jerry,
> Yes, there is no vibration at the constant velocity universal joint
>end that's usually at the transfer end, but there a heck of a vibration
>at the single universal slip yoke end, if it's not straight with the
>shaft. That's we always point the pinion directly at the transfer as in
>the rear driveshaft:
>http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>Jerry McG wrote:
>
>
>>Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
>>you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.
>>
>>TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
>>driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
>>about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
>>should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
>>a custom shaft.
>>
>>
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Black Diamond Suspension Lift Installed-questions
Yes, I put JKS quick discos on there. I didn't really care for the
'create your own' discos that the kit wanted me to make.
JimG wrote:
>Did you put sway bar disconnects in? My TJ pops there when I make swift
>turns on bumps. That could be fixed with this:
>http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1255
>A little pricy though.
>
>
>
'create your own' discos that the kit wanted me to make.
JimG wrote:
>Did you put sway bar disconnects in? My TJ pops there when I make swift
>turns on bumps. That could be fixed with this:
>http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1255
>A little pricy though.
>
>
>
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Black Diamond Suspension Lift Installed-questions
Yes, I put JKS quick discos on there. I didn't really care for the
'create your own' discos that the kit wanted me to make.
JimG wrote:
>Did you put sway bar disconnects in? My TJ pops there when I make swift
>turns on bumps. That could be fixed with this:
>http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1255
>A little pricy though.
>
>
>
'create your own' discos that the kit wanted me to make.
JimG wrote:
>Did you put sway bar disconnects in? My TJ pops there when I make swift
>turns on bumps. That could be fixed with this:
>http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1255
>A little pricy though.
>
>
>
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Black Diamond Suspension Lift Installed-questions
Yes, I put JKS quick discos on there. I didn't really care for the
'create your own' discos that the kit wanted me to make.
JimG wrote:
>Did you put sway bar disconnects in? My TJ pops there when I make swift
>turns on bumps. That could be fixed with this:
>http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1255
>A little pricy though.
>
>
>
'create your own' discos that the kit wanted me to make.
JimG wrote:
>Did you put sway bar disconnects in? My TJ pops there when I make swift
>turns on bumps. That could be fixed with this:
>http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1255
>A little pricy though.
>
>
>
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Black Diamond Suspension Lift Installed-questions
Yes, I installed the transfer case lowering kit and motor mount spacers.
The boot on the tub isn't a problem. The boot on the console is causing
the problem. If I lift the boot from the console then it shifts fine. I
don't think the SYE is necessary, but we'll see. Thanks.
Eric wrote:
>Did you have to install transfer case drop tubes/brakets/pucks/whatever? If
>so, that probably caused the t-case/transmission to slide back a bit (I know
>mine did on my 4" lift). When that happens, it makes it a lot harder to get
>into 2, 4, and R. My kit recommended removing the boot around the shifter
>(all the way down on the tub) and filing away the back edge. That'll allow
>the shifter to move properly into each gear. You COULD just get an SYE kit
>and be done with it. ;-) I did and it works great.
>
>Another thought: My shifter was stopped by the Tuffy console. I removed
>the plastic sleeve that held the upper rubber boot (the part you see) to the
>metal base. That gave the shifter enough room. Of course the boot flapped
>around until I got that SYE and put the drivetrain back where it should have
>been...
>
>Eric
>99 TJ SE
>"JVC" <shady360@NOSPAMoptonline.net> wrote in message
>news:%2Qfd.2445$803.705@trndny04...
>
>
>>I installed my Black Diamond 3 in. suspension lift. Now I have some
>>questions:
>>
>>1. I took it for alignment per the warranty/instructions. STS told me they
>>could not get the caster adjusted correctly because the lower control
>>arms/trailing links were not long enough. The left caster is currently 4.7
>>degrees and the right caster is 5.0 degrees. Based on the measurements on
>>their machine the axle needs to go forward, and that's not possible with
>>the OEM lower links. Anyone else with this problem? Suggestions?
>>
>>2. Second and fourth gears, and reverse are giving me a hard time. I think
>>the problem is primarily the boot interfering with the gear shifter. The
>>mech at STS said I could get something to correct the shift linkage.
>>Anyone know what or where to get it?
>>
>>3. I've only driven it a few miles since the lift was done. Twice when
>>pulling into driveways I've heard a noise that sounds like something is
>>hitting the OEM skid plate. Obviously that is not happening, but that's
>>what it sounds like. Thoughts, suggestions, similar problems?
>>
>>4. When driving down the street at low speeds the stearing wheel is
>>pulsing left and right. No worse during acceleration or braking, same all
>>around. Thoughts, suggestions?
>>
>>TIA for you help everyone.
>>
>>Jay
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
The boot on the tub isn't a problem. The boot on the console is causing
the problem. If I lift the boot from the console then it shifts fine. I
don't think the SYE is necessary, but we'll see. Thanks.
Eric wrote:
>Did you have to install transfer case drop tubes/brakets/pucks/whatever? If
>so, that probably caused the t-case/transmission to slide back a bit (I know
>mine did on my 4" lift). When that happens, it makes it a lot harder to get
>into 2, 4, and R. My kit recommended removing the boot around the shifter
>(all the way down on the tub) and filing away the back edge. That'll allow
>the shifter to move properly into each gear. You COULD just get an SYE kit
>and be done with it. ;-) I did and it works great.
>
>Another thought: My shifter was stopped by the Tuffy console. I removed
>the plastic sleeve that held the upper rubber boot (the part you see) to the
>metal base. That gave the shifter enough room. Of course the boot flapped
>around until I got that SYE and put the drivetrain back where it should have
>been...
>
>Eric
>99 TJ SE
>"JVC" <shady360@NOSPAMoptonline.net> wrote in message
>news:%2Qfd.2445$803.705@trndny04...
>
>
>>I installed my Black Diamond 3 in. suspension lift. Now I have some
>>questions:
>>
>>1. I took it for alignment per the warranty/instructions. STS told me they
>>could not get the caster adjusted correctly because the lower control
>>arms/trailing links were not long enough. The left caster is currently 4.7
>>degrees and the right caster is 5.0 degrees. Based on the measurements on
>>their machine the axle needs to go forward, and that's not possible with
>>the OEM lower links. Anyone else with this problem? Suggestions?
>>
>>2. Second and fourth gears, and reverse are giving me a hard time. I think
>>the problem is primarily the boot interfering with the gear shifter. The
>>mech at STS said I could get something to correct the shift linkage.
>>Anyone know what or where to get it?
>>
>>3. I've only driven it a few miles since the lift was done. Twice when
>>pulling into driveways I've heard a noise that sounds like something is
>>hitting the OEM skid plate. Obviously that is not happening, but that's
>>what it sounds like. Thoughts, suggestions, similar problems?
>>
>>4. When driving down the street at low speeds the stearing wheel is
>>pulsing left and right. No worse during acceleration or braking, same all
>>around. Thoughts, suggestions?
>>
>>TIA for you help everyone.
>>
>>Jay
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Black Diamond Suspension Lift Installed-questions
Yes, I installed the transfer case lowering kit and motor mount spacers.
The boot on the tub isn't a problem. The boot on the console is causing
the problem. If I lift the boot from the console then it shifts fine. I
don't think the SYE is necessary, but we'll see. Thanks.
Eric wrote:
>Did you have to install transfer case drop tubes/brakets/pucks/whatever? If
>so, that probably caused the t-case/transmission to slide back a bit (I know
>mine did on my 4" lift). When that happens, it makes it a lot harder to get
>into 2, 4, and R. My kit recommended removing the boot around the shifter
>(all the way down on the tub) and filing away the back edge. That'll allow
>the shifter to move properly into each gear. You COULD just get an SYE kit
>and be done with it. ;-) I did and it works great.
>
>Another thought: My shifter was stopped by the Tuffy console. I removed
>the plastic sleeve that held the upper rubber boot (the part you see) to the
>metal base. That gave the shifter enough room. Of course the boot flapped
>around until I got that SYE and put the drivetrain back where it should have
>been...
>
>Eric
>99 TJ SE
>"JVC" <shady360@NOSPAMoptonline.net> wrote in message
>news:%2Qfd.2445$803.705@trndny04...
>
>
>>I installed my Black Diamond 3 in. suspension lift. Now I have some
>>questions:
>>
>>1. I took it for alignment per the warranty/instructions. STS told me they
>>could not get the caster adjusted correctly because the lower control
>>arms/trailing links were not long enough. The left caster is currently 4.7
>>degrees and the right caster is 5.0 degrees. Based on the measurements on
>>their machine the axle needs to go forward, and that's not possible with
>>the OEM lower links. Anyone else with this problem? Suggestions?
>>
>>2. Second and fourth gears, and reverse are giving me a hard time. I think
>>the problem is primarily the boot interfering with the gear shifter. The
>>mech at STS said I could get something to correct the shift linkage.
>>Anyone know what or where to get it?
>>
>>3. I've only driven it a few miles since the lift was done. Twice when
>>pulling into driveways I've heard a noise that sounds like something is
>>hitting the OEM skid plate. Obviously that is not happening, but that's
>>what it sounds like. Thoughts, suggestions, similar problems?
>>
>>4. When driving down the street at low speeds the stearing wheel is
>>pulsing left and right. No worse during acceleration or braking, same all
>>around. Thoughts, suggestions?
>>
>>TIA for you help everyone.
>>
>>Jay
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
The boot on the tub isn't a problem. The boot on the console is causing
the problem. If I lift the boot from the console then it shifts fine. I
don't think the SYE is necessary, but we'll see. Thanks.
Eric wrote:
>Did you have to install transfer case drop tubes/brakets/pucks/whatever? If
>so, that probably caused the t-case/transmission to slide back a bit (I know
>mine did on my 4" lift). When that happens, it makes it a lot harder to get
>into 2, 4, and R. My kit recommended removing the boot around the shifter
>(all the way down on the tub) and filing away the back edge. That'll allow
>the shifter to move properly into each gear. You COULD just get an SYE kit
>and be done with it. ;-) I did and it works great.
>
>Another thought: My shifter was stopped by the Tuffy console. I removed
>the plastic sleeve that held the upper rubber boot (the part you see) to the
>metal base. That gave the shifter enough room. Of course the boot flapped
>around until I got that SYE and put the drivetrain back where it should have
>been...
>
>Eric
>99 TJ SE
>"JVC" <shady360@NOSPAMoptonline.net> wrote in message
>news:%2Qfd.2445$803.705@trndny04...
>
>
>>I installed my Black Diamond 3 in. suspension lift. Now I have some
>>questions:
>>
>>1. I took it for alignment per the warranty/instructions. STS told me they
>>could not get the caster adjusted correctly because the lower control
>>arms/trailing links were not long enough. The left caster is currently 4.7
>>degrees and the right caster is 5.0 degrees. Based on the measurements on
>>their machine the axle needs to go forward, and that's not possible with
>>the OEM lower links. Anyone else with this problem? Suggestions?
>>
>>2. Second and fourth gears, and reverse are giving me a hard time. I think
>>the problem is primarily the boot interfering with the gear shifter. The
>>mech at STS said I could get something to correct the shift linkage.
>>Anyone know what or where to get it?
>>
>>3. I've only driven it a few miles since the lift was done. Twice when
>>pulling into driveways I've heard a noise that sounds like something is
>>hitting the OEM skid plate. Obviously that is not happening, but that's
>>what it sounds like. Thoughts, suggestions, similar problems?
>>
>>4. When driving down the street at low speeds the stearing wheel is
>>pulsing left and right. No worse during acceleration or braking, same all
>>around. Thoughts, suggestions?
>>
>>TIA for you help everyone.
>>
>>Jay
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Black Diamond Suspension Lift Installed-questions
Yes, I installed the transfer case lowering kit and motor mount spacers.
The boot on the tub isn't a problem. The boot on the console is causing
the problem. If I lift the boot from the console then it shifts fine. I
don't think the SYE is necessary, but we'll see. Thanks.
Eric wrote:
>Did you have to install transfer case drop tubes/brakets/pucks/whatever? If
>so, that probably caused the t-case/transmission to slide back a bit (I know
>mine did on my 4" lift). When that happens, it makes it a lot harder to get
>into 2, 4, and R. My kit recommended removing the boot around the shifter
>(all the way down on the tub) and filing away the back edge. That'll allow
>the shifter to move properly into each gear. You COULD just get an SYE kit
>and be done with it. ;-) I did and it works great.
>
>Another thought: My shifter was stopped by the Tuffy console. I removed
>the plastic sleeve that held the upper rubber boot (the part you see) to the
>metal base. That gave the shifter enough room. Of course the boot flapped
>around until I got that SYE and put the drivetrain back where it should have
>been...
>
>Eric
>99 TJ SE
>"JVC" <shady360@NOSPAMoptonline.net> wrote in message
>news:%2Qfd.2445$803.705@trndny04...
>
>
>>I installed my Black Diamond 3 in. suspension lift. Now I have some
>>questions:
>>
>>1. I took it for alignment per the warranty/instructions. STS told me they
>>could not get the caster adjusted correctly because the lower control
>>arms/trailing links were not long enough. The left caster is currently 4.7
>>degrees and the right caster is 5.0 degrees. Based on the measurements on
>>their machine the axle needs to go forward, and that's not possible with
>>the OEM lower links. Anyone else with this problem? Suggestions?
>>
>>2. Second and fourth gears, and reverse are giving me a hard time. I think
>>the problem is primarily the boot interfering with the gear shifter. The
>>mech at STS said I could get something to correct the shift linkage.
>>Anyone know what or where to get it?
>>
>>3. I've only driven it a few miles since the lift was done. Twice when
>>pulling into driveways I've heard a noise that sounds like something is
>>hitting the OEM skid plate. Obviously that is not happening, but that's
>>what it sounds like. Thoughts, suggestions, similar problems?
>>
>>4. When driving down the street at low speeds the stearing wheel is
>>pulsing left and right. No worse during acceleration or braking, same all
>>around. Thoughts, suggestions?
>>
>>TIA for you help everyone.
>>
>>Jay
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
The boot on the tub isn't a problem. The boot on the console is causing
the problem. If I lift the boot from the console then it shifts fine. I
don't think the SYE is necessary, but we'll see. Thanks.
Eric wrote:
>Did you have to install transfer case drop tubes/brakets/pucks/whatever? If
>so, that probably caused the t-case/transmission to slide back a bit (I know
>mine did on my 4" lift). When that happens, it makes it a lot harder to get
>into 2, 4, and R. My kit recommended removing the boot around the shifter
>(all the way down on the tub) and filing away the back edge. That'll allow
>the shifter to move properly into each gear. You COULD just get an SYE kit
>and be done with it. ;-) I did and it works great.
>
>Another thought: My shifter was stopped by the Tuffy console. I removed
>the plastic sleeve that held the upper rubber boot (the part you see) to the
>metal base. That gave the shifter enough room. Of course the boot flapped
>around until I got that SYE and put the drivetrain back where it should have
>been...
>
>Eric
>99 TJ SE
>"JVC" <shady360@NOSPAMoptonline.net> wrote in message
>news:%2Qfd.2445$803.705@trndny04...
>
>
>>I installed my Black Diamond 3 in. suspension lift. Now I have some
>>questions:
>>
>>1. I took it for alignment per the warranty/instructions. STS told me they
>>could not get the caster adjusted correctly because the lower control
>>arms/trailing links were not long enough. The left caster is currently 4.7
>>degrees and the right caster is 5.0 degrees. Based on the measurements on
>>their machine the axle needs to go forward, and that's not possible with
>>the OEM lower links. Anyone else with this problem? Suggestions?
>>
>>2. Second and fourth gears, and reverse are giving me a hard time. I think
>>the problem is primarily the boot interfering with the gear shifter. The
>>mech at STS said I could get something to correct the shift linkage.
>>Anyone know what or where to get it?
>>
>>3. I've only driven it a few miles since the lift was done. Twice when
>>pulling into driveways I've heard a noise that sounds like something is
>>hitting the OEM skid plate. Obviously that is not happening, but that's
>>what it sounds like. Thoughts, suggestions, similar problems?
>>
>>4. When driving down the street at low speeds the stearing wheel is
>>pulsing left and right. No worse during acceleration or braking, same all
>>around. Thoughts, suggestions?
>>
>>TIA for you help everyone.
>>
>>Jay
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Black Diamond Suspension Lift Installed-questions
First I would be checking the wheel lug nuts to see if one tire got left
loose....
Steering shake is unacceptable and can get dangerous fast in a Jeep.
I suspect the shake and clunk are closely related.
I think something has come loose.
I have seen folks heat the shifter to bend it and/or take out the inner
boot to give room.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
JVC wrote:
>
> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
> wheel shake and the shifting.
>
> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only when
> making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only during a
> tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop will make a
> difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my digicam and post
> them on the web if you want to see anything.
>
> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on my
> old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the steering
> stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?
>
> The shifting is fine if you pull the boot off. The boot just seems to be
> bunching up under the stick. Do they make some kind of a shifter
> extender or even and offset? If the shifter was offset an inch or so to
> the front then all would be cool. Thanks again guys. Much appreciation
> for your help.
>
> Jay
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> >Hi Jerry,
> > Yes, there is no vibration at the constant velocity universal joint
> >end that's usually at the transfer end, but there a heck of a vibration
> >at the single universal slip yoke end, if it's not straight with the
> >shaft. That's we always point the pinion directly at the transfer as in
> >the rear driveshaft:
> >http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> >
> >>Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
> >>you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.
> >>
> >>TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
> >>driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
> >>about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
> >>should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
> >>a custom shaft.
> >>
> >>
loose....
Steering shake is unacceptable and can get dangerous fast in a Jeep.
I suspect the shake and clunk are closely related.
I think something has come loose.
I have seen folks heat the shifter to bend it and/or take out the inner
boot to give room.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
JVC wrote:
>
> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
> wheel shake and the shifting.
>
> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only when
> making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only during a
> tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop will make a
> difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my digicam and post
> them on the web if you want to see anything.
>
> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on my
> old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the steering
> stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?
>
> The shifting is fine if you pull the boot off. The boot just seems to be
> bunching up under the stick. Do they make some kind of a shifter
> extender or even and offset? If the shifter was offset an inch or so to
> the front then all would be cool. Thanks again guys. Much appreciation
> for your help.
>
> Jay
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> >Hi Jerry,
> > Yes, there is no vibration at the constant velocity universal joint
> >end that's usually at the transfer end, but there a heck of a vibration
> >at the single universal slip yoke end, if it's not straight with the
> >shaft. That's we always point the pinion directly at the transfer as in
> >the rear driveshaft:
> >http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> >
> >>Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
> >>you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.
> >>
> >>TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
> >>driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
> >>about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
> >>should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
> >>a custom shaft.
> >>
> >>
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Black Diamond Suspension Lift Installed-questions
First I would be checking the wheel lug nuts to see if one tire got left
loose....
Steering shake is unacceptable and can get dangerous fast in a Jeep.
I suspect the shake and clunk are closely related.
I think something has come loose.
I have seen folks heat the shifter to bend it and/or take out the inner
boot to give room.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
JVC wrote:
>
> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
> wheel shake and the shifting.
>
> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only when
> making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only during a
> tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop will make a
> difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my digicam and post
> them on the web if you want to see anything.
>
> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on my
> old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the steering
> stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?
>
> The shifting is fine if you pull the boot off. The boot just seems to be
> bunching up under the stick. Do they make some kind of a shifter
> extender or even and offset? If the shifter was offset an inch or so to
> the front then all would be cool. Thanks again guys. Much appreciation
> for your help.
>
> Jay
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> >Hi Jerry,
> > Yes, there is no vibration at the constant velocity universal joint
> >end that's usually at the transfer end, but there a heck of a vibration
> >at the single universal slip yoke end, if it's not straight with the
> >shaft. That's we always point the pinion directly at the transfer as in
> >the rear driveshaft:
> >http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> >
> >>Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
> >>you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.
> >>
> >>TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
> >>driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
> >>about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
> >>should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
> >>a custom shaft.
> >>
> >>
loose....
Steering shake is unacceptable and can get dangerous fast in a Jeep.
I suspect the shake and clunk are closely related.
I think something has come loose.
I have seen folks heat the shifter to bend it and/or take out the inner
boot to give room.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
JVC wrote:
>
> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
> wheel shake and the shifting.
>
> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only when
> making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only during a
> tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop will make a
> difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my digicam and post
> them on the web if you want to see anything.
>
> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on my
> old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the steering
> stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?
>
> The shifting is fine if you pull the boot off. The boot just seems to be
> bunching up under the stick. Do they make some kind of a shifter
> extender or even and offset? If the shifter was offset an inch or so to
> the front then all would be cool. Thanks again guys. Much appreciation
> for your help.
>
> Jay
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> >Hi Jerry,
> > Yes, there is no vibration at the constant velocity universal joint
> >end that's usually at the transfer end, but there a heck of a vibration
> >at the single universal slip yoke end, if it's not straight with the
> >shaft. That's we always point the pinion directly at the transfer as in
> >the rear driveshaft:
> >http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> >
> >>Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
> >>you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.
> >>
> >>TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
> >>driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
> >>about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
> >>should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
> >>a custom shaft.
> >>
> >>
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Black Diamond Suspension Lift Installed-questions
First I would be checking the wheel lug nuts to see if one tire got left
loose....
Steering shake is unacceptable and can get dangerous fast in a Jeep.
I suspect the shake and clunk are closely related.
I think something has come loose.
I have seen folks heat the shifter to bend it and/or take out the inner
boot to give room.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
JVC wrote:
>
> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
> wheel shake and the shifting.
>
> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only when
> making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only during a
> tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop will make a
> difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my digicam and post
> them on the web if you want to see anything.
>
> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on my
> old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the steering
> stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?
>
> The shifting is fine if you pull the boot off. The boot just seems to be
> bunching up under the stick. Do they make some kind of a shifter
> extender or even and offset? If the shifter was offset an inch or so to
> the front then all would be cool. Thanks again guys. Much appreciation
> for your help.
>
> Jay
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> >Hi Jerry,
> > Yes, there is no vibration at the constant velocity universal joint
> >end that's usually at the transfer end, but there a heck of a vibration
> >at the single universal slip yoke end, if it's not straight with the
> >shaft. That's we always point the pinion directly at the transfer as in
> >the rear driveshaft:
> >http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> >
> >>Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
> >>you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.
> >>
> >>TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
> >>driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
> >>about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
> >>should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
> >>a custom shaft.
> >>
> >>
loose....
Steering shake is unacceptable and can get dangerous fast in a Jeep.
I suspect the shake and clunk are closely related.
I think something has come loose.
I have seen folks heat the shifter to bend it and/or take out the inner
boot to give room.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
JVC wrote:
>
> Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
> things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
> wheel shake and the shifting.
>
> I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only when
> making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only during a
> tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop will make a
> difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my digicam and post
> them on the web if you want to see anything.
>
> The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
> below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
> stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on my
> old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the steering
> stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?
>
> The shifting is fine if you pull the boot off. The boot just seems to be
> bunching up under the stick. Do they make some kind of a shifter
> extender or even and offset? If the shifter was offset an inch or so to
> the front then all would be cool. Thanks again guys. Much appreciation
> for your help.
>
> Jay
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> >Hi Jerry,
> > Yes, there is no vibration at the constant velocity universal joint
> >end that's usually at the transfer end, but there a heck of a vibration
> >at the single universal slip yoke end, if it's not straight with the
> >shaft. That's we always point the pinion directly at the transfer as in
> >the rear driveshaft:
> >http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> >
> >>Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
> >>you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.
> >>
> >>TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
> >>driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
> >>about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
> >>should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
> >>a custom shaft.
> >>
> >>