Hi Jerry,
Yes, there is no vibration at the constant velocity universal joint
end that's usually at the transfer end, but there a heck of a vibration
at the single universal slip yoke end, if it's not straight with the
shaft. That's we always point the pinion directly at the transfer as in
the rear driveshaft:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
> you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.
>
> TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
> driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
> about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
> should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
> a custom shaft.

 

Hi Jerry,
Yes, there is no vibration at the constant velocity universal joint
end that's usually at the transfer end, but there a heck of a vibration
at the single universal slip yoke end, if it's not straight with the
shaft. That's we always point the pinion directly at the transfer as in
the rear driveshaft:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
> you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.
>
> TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
> driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
> about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
> should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
> a custom shaft.

 

Eric,
Did you remove your t-case lowering kit after the SYE? My TJ has both now,
and I was considering doing away with the t-case kit. I don't have any
shifting problems or vibrations.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift

"Eric" wrote in message ...
> Did you have to install transfer case drop tubes/brakets/pucks/whatever?
> If so, that probably caused the t-case/transmission to slide back a bit (I
> know mine did on my 4" lift). When that happens, it makes it a lot harder
> to get into 2, 4, and R. My kit recommended removing the boot around the
> shifter (all the way down on the tub) and filing away the back edge.
> That'll allow the shifter to move properly into each gear. You COULD just
> get an SYE kit and be done with it. ;-) I did and it works great.
>
> Another thought: My shifter was stopped by the Tuffy console. I removed
> the plastic sleeve that held the upper rubber boot (the part you see) to
> the metal base. That gave the shifter enough room. Of course the boot
> flapped around until I got that SYE and put the drivetrain back where it
> should have been...
>
> Eric
> 99 TJ SE

 

Eric,
Did you remove your t-case lowering kit after the SYE? My TJ has both now,
and I was considering doing away with the t-case kit. I don't have any
shifting problems or vibrations.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift

"Eric" wrote in message ...
> Did you have to install transfer case drop tubes/brakets/pucks/whatever?
> If so, that probably caused the t-case/transmission to slide back a bit (I
> know mine did on my 4" lift). When that happens, it makes it a lot harder
> to get into 2, 4, and R. My kit recommended removing the boot around the
> shifter (all the way down on the tub) and filing away the back edge.
> That'll allow the shifter to move properly into each gear. You COULD just
> get an SYE kit and be done with it. ;-) I did and it works great.
>
> Another thought: My shifter was stopped by the Tuffy console. I removed
> the plastic sleeve that held the upper rubber boot (the part you see) to
> the metal base. That gave the shifter enough room. Of course the boot
> flapped around until I got that SYE and put the drivetrain back where it
> should have been...
>
> Eric
> 99 TJ SE

 

Eric,
Did you remove your t-case lowering kit after the SYE? My TJ has both now,
and I was considering doing away with the t-case kit. I don't have any
shifting problems or vibrations.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift

"Eric" wrote in message ...
> Did you have to install transfer case drop tubes/brakets/pucks/whatever?
> If so, that probably caused the t-case/transmission to slide back a bit (I
> know mine did on my 4" lift). When that happens, it makes it a lot harder
> to get into 2, 4, and R. My kit recommended removing the boot around the
> shifter (all the way down on the tub) and filing away the back edge.
> That'll allow the shifter to move properly into each gear. You COULD just
> get an SYE kit and be done with it. ;-) I did and it works great.
>
> Another thought: My shifter was stopped by the Tuffy console. I removed
> the plastic sleeve that held the upper rubber boot (the part you see) to
> the metal base. That gave the shifter enough room. Of course the boot
> flapped around until I got that SYE and put the drivetrain back where it
> should have been...
>
> Eric
> 99 TJ SE

 

Did you put sway bar disconnects in? My TJ pops there when I make swift
turns on bumps. That could be fixed with this:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1255
A little pricy though.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift

"JVC" wrote in message ...
>
> I checked, and retourqued both track bars and the noise is still there. I
> managed to figure out that it only happens when making a sharp right turn
> and hitting a bump, or rut with the front right tire. For example, making
> a right into the driveway at my post office this afternoon. Sounds really
> bad, but I can't find anything that's loose or rubbing.
>

 

Did you put sway bar disconnects in? My TJ pops there when I make swift
turns on bumps. That could be fixed with this:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1255
A little pricy though.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift

"JVC" wrote in message ...
>
> I checked, and retourqued both track bars and the noise is still there. I
> managed to figure out that it only happens when making a sharp right turn
> and hitting a bump, or rut with the front right tire. For example, making
> a right into the driveway at my post office this afternoon. Sounds really
> bad, but I can't find anything that's loose or rubbing.
>

 

Did you put sway bar disconnects in? My TJ pops there when I make swift
turns on bumps. That could be fixed with this:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1255
A little pricy though.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift

"JVC" wrote in message ...
>
> I checked, and retourqued both track bars and the noise is still there. I
> managed to figure out that it only happens when making a sharp right turn
> and hitting a bump, or rut with the front right tire. For example, making
> a right into the driveway at my post office this afternoon. Sounds really
> bad, but I can't find anything that's loose or rubbing.
>

 

Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
wheel shake and the shifting.

I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only when
making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only during a
tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop will make a
difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my digicam and post
them on the web if you want to see anything.

The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on my
old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the steering
stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?

The shifting is fine if you pull the boot off. The boot just seems to be
bunching up under the stick. Do they make some kind of a shifter
extender or even and offset? If the shifter was offset an inch or so to
the front then all would be cool. Thanks again guys. Much appreciation
for your help.

Jay

L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:

>Hi Jerry,
> Yes, there is no vibration at the constant velocity universal joint
>end that's usually at the transfer end, but there a heck of a vibration
>at the single universal slip yoke end, if it's not straight with the
>shaft. That's we always point the pinion directly at the transfer as in
>the rear driveshaft:
>http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>Jerry McG wrote:
>
>
>>Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
>>you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.
>>
>>TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
>>driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
>>about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
>>should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
>>a custom shaft.
>>
>>

 

Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main
things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering
wheel shake and the shifting.

I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only when
making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only during a
tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop will make a
difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my digicam and post
them on the web if you want to see anything.

The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and
below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering
stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on my
old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the steering
stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?

The shifting is fine if you pull the boot off. The boot just seems to be
bunching up under the stick. Do they make some kind of a shifter
extender or even and offset? If the shifter was offset an inch or so to
the front then all would be cool. Thanks again guys. Much appreciation
for your help.

Jay

L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:

>Hi Jerry,
> Yes, there is no vibration at the constant velocity universal joint
>end that's usually at the transfer end, but there a heck of a vibration
>at the single universal slip yoke end, if it's not straight with the
>shaft. That's we always point the pinion directly at the transfer as in
>the rear driveshaft:
>http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>Jerry McG wrote:
>
>
>>Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If
>>you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.
>>
>>TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of
>>driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain
>>about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that
>>should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into
>>a custom shaft.
>>
>>