Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
 

Wash the motor down first. I find that the penetrating oil on the bolts
burns quickly without too much flame, but I wouldn't want to chance all the
grease on the motor. At the very least, wipe it all down and clean it up
with Brakleen.

Let us know how it goes.

Carl


"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:7allh.531339$1T2.463294@pd7urf2no...
> Thanks. :) I'll grab a torch and extinguisher tomorrow.
>
> Clint
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:TcidnTB1WqttRAjYnZ2dnUVZ_ompnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> Heat with a torch or start drilling.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>> news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no...
>>> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>>>
>>> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so
>>> I don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for
>>> the vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>>>
>>> Next up:
>>> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
>>> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
>>> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other
>>> ones mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>>>
>>> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off
>>> bolts, mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling
>>> abilities (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the
>>> front grill is right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm
>>> not sure I'm even going to be able to get a drill in there.
>>>
>>> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
>>> concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in
>>> the garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and
>>> engine oil all over the place...
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>>>
>>> Clint
>>>
>>> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>>> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>>>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my
>>>> '88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely,
>>>> two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>>>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>>>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>>>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>>>
>>>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>>>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
>>>> you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off
>>>> head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>>>
>>>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
>>>> old parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good
>>>> shaped (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking.
>>>> There was no sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be
>>>> using the RTV gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the
>>>> block heater and replace it as well. At least with the water pump out,
>>>> I can see in there a bit.
>>>>
>>>> Clint
>>>
>>
>>
>

Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
 

Wash the motor down first. I find that the penetrating oil on the bolts
burns quickly without too much flame, but I wouldn't want to chance all the
grease on the motor. At the very least, wipe it all down and clean it up
with Brakleen.

Let us know how it goes.

Carl


"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:7allh.531339$1T2.463294@pd7urf2no...
> Thanks. :) I'll grab a torch and extinguisher tomorrow.
>
> Clint
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:TcidnTB1WqttRAjYnZ2dnUVZ_ompnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> Heat with a torch or start drilling.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>> news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no...
>>> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>>>
>>> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so
>>> I don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for
>>> the vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>>>
>>> Next up:
>>> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
>>> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
>>> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other
>>> ones mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>>>
>>> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off
>>> bolts, mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling
>>> abilities (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the
>>> front grill is right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm
>>> not sure I'm even going to be able to get a drill in there.
>>>
>>> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
>>> concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in
>>> the garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and
>>> engine oil all over the place...
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>>>
>>> Clint
>>>
>>> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>>> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>>>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my
>>>> '88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely,
>>>> two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>>>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>>>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>>>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>>>
>>>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>>>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
>>>> you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off
>>>> head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>>>
>>>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
>>>> old parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good
>>>> shaped (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking.
>>>> There was no sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be
>>>> using the RTV gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the
>>>> block heater and replace it as well. At least with the water pump out,
>>>> I can see in there a bit.
>>>>
>>>> Clint
>>>
>>
>>
>

Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
 

A small plumbers pipe wrench will grab the stub really well. It
tightens with turning unlike vise grips that lock.

When I drill out bolts, I use a bit about 1/4 smaller than the bolt and
aim it towards the side with the intent of 'just' skimming the threads,
leaving a '1/4 moon' or outhouse door window shape. I then can usually
jam a torx bit in the hole and turn the bolt out or tap it with a mini
screwdriver and hammer to start it. The heat from drilling and the skim
of the threads usually loosens the crescent left in there and it has
always turned out for me after.

You also might want to try a slot in the end of the stub for a flat
blade tool.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


Clint wrote:
>
> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>
> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>
> Next up:
> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>
> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
> going to be able to get a drill in there.
>
> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm concerned
> about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the garage in
> any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and engine oil all
> over the place...
>
> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
> >
> > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >
> > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> > a bit.
> >
> > Clint

Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
 

A small plumbers pipe wrench will grab the stub really well. It
tightens with turning unlike vise grips that lock.

When I drill out bolts, I use a bit about 1/4 smaller than the bolt and
aim it towards the side with the intent of 'just' skimming the threads,
leaving a '1/4 moon' or outhouse door window shape. I then can usually
jam a torx bit in the hole and turn the bolt out or tap it with a mini
screwdriver and hammer to start it. The heat from drilling and the skim
of the threads usually loosens the crescent left in there and it has
always turned out for me after.

You also might want to try a slot in the end of the stub for a flat
blade tool.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


Clint wrote:
>
> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>
> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>
> Next up:
> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>
> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
> going to be able to get a drill in there.
>
> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm concerned
> about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the garage in
> any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and engine oil all
> over the place...
>
> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
> >
> > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >
> > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> > a bit.
> >
> > Clint

Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
 

A small plumbers pipe wrench will grab the stub really well. It
tightens with turning unlike vise grips that lock.

When I drill out bolts, I use a bit about 1/4 smaller than the bolt and
aim it towards the side with the intent of 'just' skimming the threads,
leaving a '1/4 moon' or outhouse door window shape. I then can usually
jam a torx bit in the hole and turn the bolt out or tap it with a mini
screwdriver and hammer to start it. The heat from drilling and the skim
of the threads usually loosens the crescent left in there and it has
always turned out for me after.

You also might want to try a slot in the end of the stub for a flat
blade tool.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


Clint wrote:
>
> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>
> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>
> Next up:
> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>
> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
> going to be able to get a drill in there.
>
> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm concerned
> about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the garage in
> any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and engine oil all
> over the place...
>
> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
> >
> > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >
> > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> > a bit.
> >
> > Clint

Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
 

I try a small cold chisel or strong mini screwdriver and try to tap on
one of the bit's arms to get it moving. I have spent a couple hours
doing them, but have managed.

Other than that, I drill a small hole down one V between the arms and
try tapping it like above. I retap if I have room or hope the 1/8 of
a circle chunk out of the hole won't affect the new bolt if loctited
in....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Arold \"Al\" Green wrote:
>
> A bit off topic, but related. I have a broken tap in a similar
> situation. Nothing to grab and a tap is so hard it will be a bitch to
> drill. Any thoughts?
> Al
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>
> >Heat with a torch or start drilling.
> >
> >Carl
> >
> >"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> >news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no...
> >> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
> >>
> >> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
> >> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
> >> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
> >>
> >> Next up:
> >> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
> >> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
> >> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
> >> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
> >>
> >> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
> >> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
> >> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
> >> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
> >> going to be able to get a drill in there.
> >>
> >> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
> >> concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the
> >> garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and
> >> engine oil all over the place...
> >>
> >> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
> >>
> >> Clint
> >>
> >> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> >> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> >>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> >>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> >>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> >>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> >>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> >>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
> >>>
> >>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> >>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> >>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> >>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >>>
> >>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> >>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> >>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> >>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> >>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> >>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> >>> a bit.
> >>>
> >>> Clint
> >>
> >
> __
> Arold "Al" Green

Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
 

I try a small cold chisel or strong mini screwdriver and try to tap on
one of the bit's arms to get it moving. I have spent a couple hours
doing them, but have managed.

Other than that, I drill a small hole down one V between the arms and
try tapping it like above. I retap if I have room or hope the 1/8 of
a circle chunk out of the hole won't affect the new bolt if loctited
in....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Arold \"Al\" Green wrote:
>
> A bit off topic, but related. I have a broken tap in a similar
> situation. Nothing to grab and a tap is so hard it will be a bitch to
> drill. Any thoughts?
> Al
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>
> >Heat with a torch or start drilling.
> >
> >Carl
> >
> >"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> >news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no...
> >> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
> >>
> >> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
> >> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
> >> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
> >>
> >> Next up:
> >> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
> >> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
> >> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
> >> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
> >>
> >> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
> >> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
> >> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
> >> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
> >> going to be able to get a drill in there.
> >>
> >> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
> >> concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the
> >> garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and
> >> engine oil all over the place...
> >>
> >> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
> >>
> >> Clint
> >>
> >> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> >> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> >>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> >>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> >>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> >>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> >>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> >>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
> >>>
> >>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> >>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> >>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> >>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >>>
> >>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> >>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> >>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> >>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> >>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> >>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> >>> a bit.
> >>>
> >>> Clint
> >>
> >
> __
> Arold "Al" Green

Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
 

I try a small cold chisel or strong mini screwdriver and try to tap on
one of the bit's arms to get it moving. I have spent a couple hours
doing them, but have managed.

Other than that, I drill a small hole down one V between the arms and
try tapping it like above. I retap if I have room or hope the 1/8 of
a circle chunk out of the hole won't affect the new bolt if loctited
in....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Arold \"Al\" Green wrote:
>
> A bit off topic, but related. I have a broken tap in a similar
> situation. Nothing to grab and a tap is so hard it will be a bitch to
> drill. Any thoughts?
> Al
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>
> >Heat with a torch or start drilling.
> >
> >Carl
> >
> >"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> >news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no...
> >> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
> >>
> >> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
> >> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
> >> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
> >>
> >> Next up:
> >> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
> >> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
> >> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
> >> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
> >>
> >> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
> >> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
> >> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
> >> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
> >> going to be able to get a drill in there.
> >>
> >> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
> >> concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the
> >> garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and
> >> engine oil all over the place...
> >>
> >> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
> >>
> >> Clint
> >>
> >> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> >> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> >>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> >>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> >>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> >>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> >>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> >>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
> >>>
> >>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> >>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> >>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> >>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >>>
> >>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> >>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> >>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> >>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> >>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> >>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> >>> a bit.
> >>>
> >>> Clint
> >>
> >
> __
> Arold "Al" Green

Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
 

I did pick up a 4" angle grinder at House of Tools today, so I may try a
little more grinding first. I can also try the slot.

Thanks again for all the ideas. And yes, Carl, I'll keep you all posted! :)
Especially when I win!

Clint

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4595E1D0.DC7D306C@sympatico.ca...
>A small plumbers pipe wrench will grab the stub really well. It
> tightens with turning unlike vise grips that lock.
>
> When I drill out bolts, I use a bit about 1/4 smaller than the bolt and
> aim it towards the side with the intent of 'just' skimming the threads,
> leaving a '1/4 moon' or outhouse door window shape. I then can usually
> jam a torx bit in the hole and turn the bolt out or tap it with a mini
> screwdriver and hammer to start it. The heat from drilling and the skim
> of the threads usually loosens the crescent left in there and it has
> always turned out for me after.
>
> You also might want to try a slot in the end of the stub for a flat
> blade tool.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
> Clint wrote:
>>
>> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>>
>> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so
>> I
>> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
>> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>>
>> Next up:
>> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
>> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
>> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
>> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>>
>> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
>> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling
>> abilities
>> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
>> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm
>> even
>> going to be able to get a drill in there.
>>
>> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
>> concerned
>> about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the garage in
>> any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and engine oil all
>> over the place...
>>
>> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>> > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my
>> > '88
>> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> > material
>> > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>> >
>> > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
>> > you
>> > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>> >
>> > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
>> > old
>> > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was
>> > no
>> > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater
>> > and
>> > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in
>> > there
>> > a bit.
>> >
>> > Clint

Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
 

I did pick up a 4" angle grinder at House of Tools today, so I may try a
little more grinding first. I can also try the slot.

Thanks again for all the ideas. And yes, Carl, I'll keep you all posted! :)
Especially when I win!

Clint

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4595E1D0.DC7D306C@sympatico.ca...
>A small plumbers pipe wrench will grab the stub really well. It
> tightens with turning unlike vise grips that lock.
>
> When I drill out bolts, I use a bit about 1/4 smaller than the bolt and
> aim it towards the side with the intent of 'just' skimming the threads,
> leaving a '1/4 moon' or outhouse door window shape. I then can usually
> jam a torx bit in the hole and turn the bolt out or tap it with a mini
> screwdriver and hammer to start it. The heat from drilling and the skim
> of the threads usually loosens the crescent left in there and it has
> always turned out for me after.
>
> You also might want to try a slot in the end of the stub for a flat
> blade tool.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
> Clint wrote:
>>
>> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>>
>> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so
>> I
>> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
>> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>>
>> Next up:
>> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
>> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
>> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
>> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>>
>> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
>> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling
>> abilities
>> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
>> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm
>> even
>> going to be able to get a drill in there.
>>
>> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
>> concerned
>> about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the garage in
>> any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and engine oil all
>> over the place...
>>
>> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>> > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my
>> > '88
>> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> > material
>> > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>> >
>> > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
>> > you
>> > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>> >
>> > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
>> > old
>> > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was
>> > no
>> > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater
>> > and
>> > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in
>> > there
>> > a bit.
>> >
>> > Clint