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Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a bit. Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Clint wrote:
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my > '88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was > likely, two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to > see (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of > threaded material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. ow > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of > them work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, > how do you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the > broken off head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a > hammer... I hate dealing with stuck bolts, But you might have enough to get vice grips on. Hit it with some PB blaster, tap the head with a hammer a few times, and try. Sears has extractor sockets that have left hand threads and might work. Similar to these http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1925_917971002 If they break off flat it's drill time. I use a center punch but sometimes a dremmel will be good enough. Just watch you don't destroy the threads. As for the gasket, just make sure it's clean and use the paper gasket. Any other stuff in there just sets you up for future leaks. -- DougW |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Clint wrote:
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my > '88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was > likely, two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to > see (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of > threaded material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. ow > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of > them work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, > how do you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the > broken off head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a > hammer... I hate dealing with stuck bolts, But you might have enough to get vice grips on. Hit it with some PB blaster, tap the head with a hammer a few times, and try. Sears has extractor sockets that have left hand threads and might work. Similar to these http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1925_917971002 If they break off flat it's drill time. I use a center punch but sometimes a dremmel will be good enough. Just watch you don't destroy the threads. As for the gasket, just make sure it's clean and use the paper gasket. Any other stuff in there just sets you up for future leaks. -- DougW |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Clint wrote:
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my > '88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was > likely, two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to > see (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of > threaded material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. ow > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of > them work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, > how do you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the > broken off head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a > hammer... I hate dealing with stuck bolts, But you might have enough to get vice grips on. Hit it with some PB blaster, tap the head with a hammer a few times, and try. Sears has extractor sockets that have left hand threads and might work. Similar to these http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1925_917971002 If they break off flat it's drill time. I use a center punch but sometimes a dremmel will be good enough. Just watch you don't destroy the threads. As for the gasket, just make sure it's clean and use the paper gasket. Any other stuff in there just sets you up for future leaks. -- DougW |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Looking at your picture you "might" be able to get PB in the back of the
bolt through where the water pump goes. Also I find that heat from a propane torch then pb blaster then more heat and again pb helps. The trick is not to mess up what you've got to grab onto. So try pb, heat and pb first. JoBo "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there > a bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Looking at your picture you "might" be able to get PB in the back of the
bolt through where the water pump goes. Also I find that heat from a propane torch then pb blaster then more heat and again pb helps. The trick is not to mess up what you've got to grab onto. So try pb, heat and pb first. JoBo "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there > a bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Looking at your picture you "might" be able to get PB in the back of the
bolt through where the water pump goes. Also I find that heat from a propane torch then pb blaster then more heat and again pb helps. The trick is not to mess up what you've got to grab onto. So try pb, heat and pb first. JoBo "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there > a bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:0UCkh.30072$Rj.29056@newsfe19.lga... > Clint wrote: > > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my > > '88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was > > likely, two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to > > see (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of > > threaded material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > ow > > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of > > them work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, > > how do you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the > > broken off head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a > > hammer... > > I hate dealing with stuck bolts, But you might have enough to get > vice grips on. Hit it with some PB blaster, tap the head with > a hammer a few times, and try. Sears has extractor sockets that > have left hand threads and might work. Similar to these > http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1925_917971002 > > If they break off flat it's drill time. I use a center punch but > sometimes a dremmel will be good enough. Just watch you don't > destroy the threads. > > As for the gasket, just make sure it's clean and use the paper gasket. > Any other stuff in there just sets you up for future leaks. > What he said, plus it looks like you have enough metal there to make the end of the bolt nice and straight with an angle grinder before drilling. If you do that, I can't overemphasize the importance of drilling into a flat surface, assuming you can hold the drill straight. My philosophy is to forget about screw extractors and go straight for the drill and tap. There is nothing more annoying than a broke off screw extractor. If you mess up ask your parts counter person about Heli-Coils. Permatex Hi-Tac is good for water pump paper gaskets. It sticks, but you can move the gasket if you position it wrong. If you do use something, make sure, that it says right on the can, that it is for use with ethylene glycol. Earle |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:0UCkh.30072$Rj.29056@newsfe19.lga... > Clint wrote: > > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my > > '88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was > > likely, two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to > > see (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of > > threaded material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > ow > > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of > > them work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, > > how do you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the > > broken off head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a > > hammer... > > I hate dealing with stuck bolts, But you might have enough to get > vice grips on. Hit it with some PB blaster, tap the head with > a hammer a few times, and try. Sears has extractor sockets that > have left hand threads and might work. Similar to these > http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1925_917971002 > > If they break off flat it's drill time. I use a center punch but > sometimes a dremmel will be good enough. Just watch you don't > destroy the threads. > > As for the gasket, just make sure it's clean and use the paper gasket. > Any other stuff in there just sets you up for future leaks. > What he said, plus it looks like you have enough metal there to make the end of the bolt nice and straight with an angle grinder before drilling. If you do that, I can't overemphasize the importance of drilling into a flat surface, assuming you can hold the drill straight. My philosophy is to forget about screw extractors and go straight for the drill and tap. There is nothing more annoying than a broke off screw extractor. If you mess up ask your parts counter person about Heli-Coils. Permatex Hi-Tac is good for water pump paper gaskets. It sticks, but you can move the gasket if you position it wrong. If you do use something, make sure, that it says right on the can, that it is for use with ethylene glycol. Earle |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:0UCkh.30072$Rj.29056@newsfe19.lga... > Clint wrote: > > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my > > '88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was > > likely, two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to > > see (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of > > threaded material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > ow > > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of > > them work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, > > how do you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the > > broken off head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a > > hammer... > > I hate dealing with stuck bolts, But you might have enough to get > vice grips on. Hit it with some PB blaster, tap the head with > a hammer a few times, and try. Sears has extractor sockets that > have left hand threads and might work. Similar to these > http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1925_917971002 > > If they break off flat it's drill time. I use a center punch but > sometimes a dremmel will be good enough. Just watch you don't > destroy the threads. > > As for the gasket, just make sure it's clean and use the paper gasket. > Any other stuff in there just sets you up for future leaks. > What he said, plus it looks like you have enough metal there to make the end of the bolt nice and straight with an angle grinder before drilling. If you do that, I can't overemphasize the importance of drilling into a flat surface, assuming you can hold the drill straight. My philosophy is to forget about screw extractors and go straight for the drill and tap. There is nothing more annoying than a broke off screw extractor. If you mess up ask your parts counter person about Heli-Coils. Permatex Hi-Tac is good for water pump paper gaskets. It sticks, but you can move the gasket if you position it wrong. If you do use something, make sure, that it says right on the can, that it is for use with ethylene glycol. Earle |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
For others out there, put a little Blue Silicone gasket maker:
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/...CLZZZZZZZ_.jpg on the bolt threads and they won't seize for the next guy. God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Clint wrote: > > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt > heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken > off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab, > assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work > better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the > hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch? > That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a > bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
For others out there, put a little Blue Silicone gasket maker:
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/...CLZZZZZZZ_.jpg on the bolt threads and they won't seize for the next guy. God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Clint wrote: > > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt > heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken > off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab, > assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work > better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the > hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch? > That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a > bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
For others out there, put a little Blue Silicone gasket maker:
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/...CLZZZZZZZ_.jpg on the bolt threads and they won't seize for the next guy. God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Clint wrote: > > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt > heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken > off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab, > assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work > better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the > hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch? > That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a > bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
I HATE it when that happens!! Your pic is not super clear so I'm not
sure I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit gets in bad places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it flat. If you have a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads, counter sink the end, weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on the weld. As soon as the red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If you snap the weld, just repeat. The differential expansion plus the new nut is often enough to get it to pop loose. If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a LEFT hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut. The left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13 NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not horrible, next day delivery. Clint wrote: > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded > material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do > you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off > head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the > old parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good > shaped (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There > was no sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using > the RTV gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block > heater and replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can > see in there a bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
I HATE it when that happens!! Your pic is not super clear so I'm not
sure I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit gets in bad places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it flat. If you have a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads, counter sink the end, weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on the weld. As soon as the red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If you snap the weld, just repeat. The differential expansion plus the new nut is often enough to get it to pop loose. If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a LEFT hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut. The left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13 NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not horrible, next day delivery. Clint wrote: > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded > material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do > you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off > head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the > old parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good > shaped (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There > was no sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using > the RTV gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block > heater and replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can > see in there a bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
I HATE it when that happens!! Your pic is not super clear so I'm not
sure I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit gets in bad places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it flat. If you have a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads, counter sink the end, weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on the weld. As soon as the red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If you snap the weld, just repeat. The differential expansion plus the new nut is often enough to get it to pop loose. If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a LEFT hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut. The left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13 NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not horrible, next day delivery. Clint wrote: > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded > material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do > you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off > head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the > old parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good > shaped (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There > was no sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using > the RTV gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block > heater and replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can > see in there a bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Hi Clint,
I like to first hit stuck bolts with a portable propane torch and some PB blaster. Squirt the PB on there, give it around 30 minutes to soak in. Wipe up the excess, and heat the bolts up red hot to break the corrosion, then go for it with the vice grips (carefully!). If the grips just slip, grind a flat spot on each side of the bolt (usually just two flat spots 180 degrees from each other is enough) to help get a better grip. Be sure to be careful with other engine parts and grease when wielding a torch. If the grinding doesn't work and the grips are still slipping, I have knocked a snug-fitting socket onto the bolt and welded it to the bolt, then used a ratchet and cheater bar. As a bonus, the welding helps heat the bolt up as well. If the first bolt breaks, use a bolt extractor on it and just cut the second one off flat to make your extracting job easier. A center punch helps with keeping the bit aligned. After I drill around 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch into the bolt, I like to then begin drilling in reverse. Sometimes this is enough to back the bolt straight out. Anyhow, let us know which suggestions you try and which ones work. HTH Carl "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there > a bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Hi Clint,
I like to first hit stuck bolts with a portable propane torch and some PB blaster. Squirt the PB on there, give it around 30 minutes to soak in. Wipe up the excess, and heat the bolts up red hot to break the corrosion, then go for it with the vice grips (carefully!). If the grips just slip, grind a flat spot on each side of the bolt (usually just two flat spots 180 degrees from each other is enough) to help get a better grip. Be sure to be careful with other engine parts and grease when wielding a torch. If the grinding doesn't work and the grips are still slipping, I have knocked a snug-fitting socket onto the bolt and welded it to the bolt, then used a ratchet and cheater bar. As a bonus, the welding helps heat the bolt up as well. If the first bolt breaks, use a bolt extractor on it and just cut the second one off flat to make your extracting job easier. A center punch helps with keeping the bit aligned. After I drill around 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch into the bolt, I like to then begin drilling in reverse. Sometimes this is enough to back the bolt straight out. Anyhow, let us know which suggestions you try and which ones work. HTH Carl "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there > a bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Hi Clint,
I like to first hit stuck bolts with a portable propane torch and some PB blaster. Squirt the PB on there, give it around 30 minutes to soak in. Wipe up the excess, and heat the bolts up red hot to break the corrosion, then go for it with the vice grips (carefully!). If the grips just slip, grind a flat spot on each side of the bolt (usually just two flat spots 180 degrees from each other is enough) to help get a better grip. Be sure to be careful with other engine parts and grease when wielding a torch. If the grinding doesn't work and the grips are still slipping, I have knocked a snug-fitting socket onto the bolt and welded it to the bolt, then used a ratchet and cheater bar. As a bonus, the welding helps heat the bolt up as well. If the first bolt breaks, use a bolt extractor on it and just cut the second one off flat to make your extracting job easier. A center punch helps with keeping the bit aligned. After I drill around 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch into the bolt, I like to then begin drilling in reverse. Sometimes this is enough to back the bolt straight out. Anyhow, let us know which suggestions you try and which ones work. HTH Carl "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there > a bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Hmmm... Interesting thought. If I could get two nuts on there, and then
tried to back off the inside one, might that work? I'm thinking it would work like a lock bolt. Harder I crank, the tighter it'll get. My neighbor has a welder, I might see if he can drag it over to tack it on. But since I don't have 220V in the garage, that might put a kink in that plan. BTW, the picture is from the top, looking down at the front of the engine. Jeep hood label right about in my belly button. You can just see the thermostat housing in the top left corner of the picture. Clint "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message news:jZGkh.7808$X72.227@newsread3.news.pas.earthli nk.net... >I HATE it when that happens!! Your pic is not super clear so I'm not sure >I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit gets in bad >places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it flat. If you have >a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads, counter sink the end, >weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on the weld. As soon as the >red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If you snap the weld, just >repeat. The differential expansion plus the new nut is often enough to get >it to pop loose. > > If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure > with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a LEFT > hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut. The > left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out > without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13 > NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that > thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not > horrible, next day delivery. > > Clint wrote: >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 >> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two >> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see >> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded >> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. >> >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them >> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you >> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? >> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... >> >> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old >> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped >> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no >> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV >> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and >> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there >> a bit. >> >> Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Hmmm... Interesting thought. If I could get two nuts on there, and then
tried to back off the inside one, might that work? I'm thinking it would work like a lock bolt. Harder I crank, the tighter it'll get. My neighbor has a welder, I might see if he can drag it over to tack it on. But since I don't have 220V in the garage, that might put a kink in that plan. BTW, the picture is from the top, looking down at the front of the engine. Jeep hood label right about in my belly button. You can just see the thermostat housing in the top left corner of the picture. Clint "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message news:jZGkh.7808$X72.227@newsread3.news.pas.earthli nk.net... >I HATE it when that happens!! Your pic is not super clear so I'm not sure >I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit gets in bad >places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it flat. If you have >a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads, counter sink the end, >weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on the weld. As soon as the >red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If you snap the weld, just >repeat. The differential expansion plus the new nut is often enough to get >it to pop loose. > > If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure > with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a LEFT > hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut. The > left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out > without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13 > NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that > thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not > horrible, next day delivery. > > Clint wrote: >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 >> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two >> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see >> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded >> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. >> >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them >> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you >> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? >> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... >> >> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old >> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped >> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no >> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV >> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and >> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there >> a bit. >> >> Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Hmmm... Interesting thought. If I could get two nuts on there, and then
tried to back off the inside one, might that work? I'm thinking it would work like a lock bolt. Harder I crank, the tighter it'll get. My neighbor has a welder, I might see if he can drag it over to tack it on. But since I don't have 220V in the garage, that might put a kink in that plan. BTW, the picture is from the top, looking down at the front of the engine. Jeep hood label right about in my belly button. You can just see the thermostat housing in the top left corner of the picture. Clint "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message news:jZGkh.7808$X72.227@newsread3.news.pas.earthli nk.net... >I HATE it when that happens!! Your pic is not super clear so I'm not sure >I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit gets in bad >places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it flat. If you have >a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads, counter sink the end, >weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on the weld. As soon as the >red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If you snap the weld, just >repeat. The differential expansion plus the new nut is often enough to get >it to pop loose. > > If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure > with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a LEFT > hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut. The > left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out > without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13 > NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that > thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not > horrible, next day delivery. > > Clint wrote: >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 >> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two >> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see >> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded >> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. >> >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them >> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you >> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? >> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... >> >> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old >> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped >> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no >> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV >> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and >> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there >> a bit. >> >> Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Sears has an extractor with eccentric cams that lock together on the stud.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:0UCkh.30072$Rj.29056@newsfe19.lga... > Clint wrote: >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my >> '88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was >> likely, two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to >> see (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of >> threaded material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > ow > >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of >> them work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, >> how do you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the >> broken off head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a >> hammer... > > I hate dealing with stuck bolts, But you might have enough to get > vice grips on. Hit it with some PB blaster, tap the head with > a hammer a few times, and try. Sears has extractor sockets that > have left hand threads and might work. Similar to these > http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1925_917971002 > > If they break off flat it's drill time. I use a center punch but > sometimes a dremmel will be good enough. Just watch you don't > destroy the threads. > > As for the gasket, just make sure it's clean and use the paper gasket. > Any other stuff in there just sets you up for future leaks. > > -- > DougW > > |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Sears has an extractor with eccentric cams that lock together on the stud.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:0UCkh.30072$Rj.29056@newsfe19.lga... > Clint wrote: >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my >> '88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was >> likely, two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to >> see (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of >> threaded material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > ow > >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of >> them work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, >> how do you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the >> broken off head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a >> hammer... > > I hate dealing with stuck bolts, But you might have enough to get > vice grips on. Hit it with some PB blaster, tap the head with > a hammer a few times, and try. Sears has extractor sockets that > have left hand threads and might work. Similar to these > http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1925_917971002 > > If they break off flat it's drill time. I use a center punch but > sometimes a dremmel will be good enough. Just watch you don't > destroy the threads. > > As for the gasket, just make sure it's clean and use the paper gasket. > Any other stuff in there just sets you up for future leaks. > > -- > DougW > > |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Sears has an extractor with eccentric cams that lock together on the stud.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:0UCkh.30072$Rj.29056@newsfe19.lga... > Clint wrote: >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my >> '88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was >> likely, two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to >> see (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of >> threaded material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > ow > >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of >> them work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, >> how do you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the >> broken off head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a >> hammer... > > I hate dealing with stuck bolts, But you might have enough to get > vice grips on. Hit it with some PB blaster, tap the head with > a hammer a few times, and try. Sears has extractor sockets that > have left hand threads and might work. Similar to these > http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1925_917971002 > > If they break off flat it's drill time. I use a center punch but > sometimes a dremmel will be good enough. Just watch you don't > destroy the threads. > > As for the gasket, just make sure it's clean and use the paper gasket. > Any other stuff in there just sets you up for future leaks. > > -- > DougW > > |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 22:47:16 +0000, Clint wrote:
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt > heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken > off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab, > assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work > better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the > hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch? > That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a > bit. Lots of good suggestions here. I usually start with the PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench the take a large pin punch and rap the bolt sideways going as far around as I can get. The back and forth blow from the sides seems to break the corrosion pretty well. If you do go the BMFH route, re-apply the PB Blaster after you pound on it and let it sit a bit - if you broke the corrosion any at all it will get in the threads a lot better. I use a very thin wipe of RTV on the paper gasket to make it come off easier the next time as well as holding the gasket in place while I'm lining things up. Watch the seating surface on the thermostat cover - the one on my 88 MJ was so corroded that I had to drop it on a belt sander to get a usable seat. Funny, I had no problem with the bolt you show but the next clockwise was a flaming bitch for me. I coat the threads with RTV on the bolts that penetrate the water jacket. I don't sweat the seal, but it seems to reduce the corrosion and make them easier to get out the next time. -- Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com> |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 22:47:16 +0000, Clint wrote:
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt > heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken > off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab, > assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work > better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the > hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch? > That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a > bit. Lots of good suggestions here. I usually start with the PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench the take a large pin punch and rap the bolt sideways going as far around as I can get. The back and forth blow from the sides seems to break the corrosion pretty well. If you do go the BMFH route, re-apply the PB Blaster after you pound on it and let it sit a bit - if you broke the corrosion any at all it will get in the threads a lot better. I use a very thin wipe of RTV on the paper gasket to make it come off easier the next time as well as holding the gasket in place while I'm lining things up. Watch the seating surface on the thermostat cover - the one on my 88 MJ was so corroded that I had to drop it on a belt sander to get a usable seat. Funny, I had no problem with the bolt you show but the next clockwise was a flaming bitch for me. I coat the threads with RTV on the bolts that penetrate the water jacket. I don't sweat the seal, but it seems to reduce the corrosion and make them easier to get out the next time. -- Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com> |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 22:47:16 +0000, Clint wrote:
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt > heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken > off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab, > assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work > better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the > hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch? > That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a > bit. Lots of good suggestions here. I usually start with the PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench the take a large pin punch and rap the bolt sideways going as far around as I can get. The back and forth blow from the sides seems to break the corrosion pretty well. If you do go the BMFH route, re-apply the PB Blaster after you pound on it and let it sit a bit - if you broke the corrosion any at all it will get in the threads a lot better. I use a very thin wipe of RTV on the paper gasket to make it come off easier the next time as well as holding the gasket in place while I'm lining things up. Watch the seating surface on the thermostat cover - the one on my 88 MJ was so corroded that I had to drop it on a belt sander to get a usable seat. Funny, I had no problem with the bolt you show but the next clockwise was a flaming bitch for me. I coat the threads with RTV on the bolts that penetrate the water jacket. I don't sweat the seal, but it seems to reduce the corrosion and make them easier to get out the next time. -- Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com> |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Not all RTV is compatible with ethylene glycol. It should say on the
package. Earle "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:459377a9$0$25782$815e3792@news.qwest.net... > On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 22:47:16 +0000, Clint wrote: > > > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt > > heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken > > off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab, > > assuming that doesn't break off. > > > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work > > better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the > > hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch? > > That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a > > bit. > > Lots of good suggestions here. I usually start with the PB Blaster or > Liquid Wrench the take a large pin punch and rap the bolt sideways going > as far around as I can get. The back and forth blow from the sides seems > to break the corrosion pretty well. If you do go the BMFH route, re-apply > the PB Blaster after you pound on it and let it sit a bit - if you broke > the corrosion any at all it will get in the threads a lot better. > > I use a very thin wipe of RTV on the paper gasket to make it come off > easier the next time as well as holding the gasket in place while I'm > lining things up. Watch the seating surface on the thermostat cover - > the one on my 88 MJ was so corroded that I had to drop it on a belt > sander to get a usable seat. Funny, I had no problem with the bolt you > show but the next clockwise was a flaming bitch for me. I coat the > threads with RTV on the bolts that penetrate the water jacket. I don't > sweat the seal, but it seems to reduce the corrosion and make them easier > to get out the next time. > > -- > Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com> |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Not all RTV is compatible with ethylene glycol. It should say on the
package. Earle "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:459377a9$0$25782$815e3792@news.qwest.net... > On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 22:47:16 +0000, Clint wrote: > > > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt > > heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken > > off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab, > > assuming that doesn't break off. > > > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work > > better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the > > hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch? > > That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a > > bit. > > Lots of good suggestions here. I usually start with the PB Blaster or > Liquid Wrench the take a large pin punch and rap the bolt sideways going > as far around as I can get. The back and forth blow from the sides seems > to break the corrosion pretty well. If you do go the BMFH route, re-apply > the PB Blaster after you pound on it and let it sit a bit - if you broke > the corrosion any at all it will get in the threads a lot better. > > I use a very thin wipe of RTV on the paper gasket to make it come off > easier the next time as well as holding the gasket in place while I'm > lining things up. Watch the seating surface on the thermostat cover - > the one on my 88 MJ was so corroded that I had to drop it on a belt > sander to get a usable seat. Funny, I had no problem with the bolt you > show but the next clockwise was a flaming bitch for me. I coat the > threads with RTV on the bolts that penetrate the water jacket. I don't > sweat the seal, but it seems to reduce the corrosion and make them easier > to get out the next time. > > -- > Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com> |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Not all RTV is compatible with ethylene glycol. It should say on the
package. Earle "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:459377a9$0$25782$815e3792@news.qwest.net... > On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 22:47:16 +0000, Clint wrote: > > > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt > > heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken > > off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab, > > assuming that doesn't break off. > > > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work > > better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the > > hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch? > > That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a > > bit. > > Lots of good suggestions here. I usually start with the PB Blaster or > Liquid Wrench the take a large pin punch and rap the bolt sideways going > as far around as I can get. The back and forth blow from the sides seems > to break the corrosion pretty well. If you do go the BMFH route, re-apply > the PB Blaster after you pound on it and let it sit a bit - if you broke > the corrosion any at all it will get in the threads a lot better. > > I use a very thin wipe of RTV on the paper gasket to make it come off > easier the next time as well as holding the gasket in place while I'm > lining things up. Watch the seating surface on the thermostat cover - > the one on my 88 MJ was so corroded that I had to drop it on a belt > sander to get a usable seat. Funny, I had no problem with the bolt you > show but the next clockwise was a flaming bitch for me. I coat the > threads with RTV on the bolts that penetrate the water jacket. I don't > sweat the seal, but it seems to reduce the corrosion and make them easier > to get out the next time. > > -- > Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com> |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the vice grips to grab. No joy so far. Next up: Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before? http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519 I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though. I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts, mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even going to be able to get a drill in there. I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and engine oil all over the place... Thanks for all the helpful advice so far. Clint "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there > a bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the vice grips to grab. No joy so far. Next up: Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before? http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519 I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though. I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts, mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even going to be able to get a drill in there. I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and engine oil all over the place... Thanks for all the helpful advice so far. Clint "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there > a bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the vice grips to grab. No joy so far. Next up: Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before? http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519 I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though. I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts, mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even going to be able to get a drill in there. I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and engine oil all over the place... Thanks for all the helpful advice so far. Clint "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. > > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... > > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there > a bit. > > Clint |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Heat with a torch or start drilling.
Carl "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no... > So far, bolts 2, Clint 0... > > I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I > don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the > vice grips to grab. No joy so far. > > Next up: > Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before? > http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519 > I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones > mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though. > > I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts, > mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities > (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is > right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even > going to be able to get a drill in there. > > I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm > concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the > garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and > engine oil all over the place... > > Thanks for all the helpful advice so far. > > Clint > > "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message > news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 >> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two >> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see >> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded >> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. >> >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them >> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you >> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? >> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... >> >> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old >> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped >> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no >> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV >> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and >> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there >> a bit. >> >> Clint > |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Heat with a torch or start drilling.
Carl "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no... > So far, bolts 2, Clint 0... > > I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I > don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the > vice grips to grab. No joy so far. > > Next up: > Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before? > http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519 > I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones > mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though. > > I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts, > mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities > (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is > right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even > going to be able to get a drill in there. > > I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm > concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the > garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and > engine oil all over the place... > > Thanks for all the helpful advice so far. > > Clint > > "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message > news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 >> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two >> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see >> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded >> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. >> >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them >> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you >> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? >> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... >> >> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old >> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped >> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no >> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV >> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and >> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there >> a bit. >> >> Clint > |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Heat with a torch or start drilling.
Carl "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no... > So far, bolts 2, Clint 0... > > I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I > don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the > vice grips to grab. No joy so far. > > Next up: > Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before? > http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519 > I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones > mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though. > > I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts, > mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities > (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is > right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even > going to be able to get a drill in there. > > I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm > concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the > garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and > engine oil all over the place... > > Thanks for all the helpful advice so far. > > Clint > > "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message > news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 >> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two >> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see >> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded >> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. >> >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them >> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you >> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? >> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... >> >> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old >> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped >> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no >> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV >> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and >> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there >> a bit. >> >> Clint > |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
A bit off topic, but related. I have a broken tap in a similar
situation. Nothing to grab and a tap is so hard it will be a bitch to drill. Any thoughts? Al "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote: >Heat with a torch or start drilling. > >Carl > >"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message >news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no... >> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0... >> >> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I >> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the >> vice grips to grab. No joy so far. >> >> Next up: >> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before? >> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519 >> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones >> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though. >> >> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts, >> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities >> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is >> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even >> going to be able to get a drill in there. >> >> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm >> concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the >> garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and >> engine oil all over the place... >> >> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far. >> >> Clint >> >> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message >> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... >>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 >>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two >>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see >>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're >>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded >>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. >>> >>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them >>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you >>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? >>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... >>> >>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old >>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped >>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no >>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV >>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and >>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there >>> a bit. >>> >>> Clint >> > __ Arold "Al" Green |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
A bit off topic, but related. I have a broken tap in a similar
situation. Nothing to grab and a tap is so hard it will be a bitch to drill. Any thoughts? Al "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote: >Heat with a torch or start drilling. > >Carl > >"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message >news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no... >> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0... >> >> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I >> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the >> vice grips to grab. No joy so far. >> >> Next up: >> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before? >> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519 >> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones >> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though. >> >> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts, >> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities >> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is >> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even >> going to be able to get a drill in there. >> >> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm >> concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the >> garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and >> engine oil all over the place... >> >> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far. >> >> Clint >> >> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message >> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... >>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 >>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two >>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see >>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're >>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded >>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. >>> >>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them >>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you >>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? >>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... >>> >>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old >>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped >>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no >>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV >>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and >>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there >>> a bit. >>> >>> Clint >> > __ Arold "Al" Green |
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
A bit off topic, but related. I have a broken tap in a similar
situation. Nothing to grab and a tap is so hard it will be a bitch to drill. Any thoughts? Al "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote: >Heat with a torch or start drilling. > >Carl > >"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message >news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no... >> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0... >> >> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I >> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the >> vice grips to grab. No joy so far. >> >> Next up: >> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before? >> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519 >> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones >> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though. >> >> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts, >> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities >> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is >> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even >> going to be able to get a drill in there. >> >> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm >> concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the >> garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and >> engine oil all over the place... >> >> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far. >> >> Clint >> >> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message >> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no... >>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88 >>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two >>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see >>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're >>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded >>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off. >>> >>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them >>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you >>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? >>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer... >>> >>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old >>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped >>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no >>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV >>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and >>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there >>> a bit. >>> >>> Clint >> > __ Arold "Al" Green |
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