Banks Headers?
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Banks Headers?
bushman did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Doug. I already have your site in my favorites and your site was the
> catalist for this little project. Are there any improvements to be done to
> the intake manifold while I have it off?
Apart from spending a couple of days doing a port&polish. :)
(nah, that's if you have the head off)
You can match the intake and head by cleaning off any overhanging
casting material from the intake rail and head. Basically you use the gasket
to mark where material can be removed. The idea is to make the intake,
gasket, and head match up as perfect as possible. (don't grind off the
fuel injector bump, that's needed to swirl the mix) You also check the
gasket to make sure it doesn't intrude into the air stream and remove
(with a razor) the bit that overhangs. Handle the gasket with care.
If you put a wrinkle in it it may not seal up properly.
It's possible to take the intake off without taking the fuel injector
rail off. If you do be very careful to pull evenly. Rails are expensive.
You will also need new O rings. NAPA has them. A bit of motor oil makes
them easier to install. What ever you do, don't loose the injector clips,
DC thinks those things are made of platinum. And despite what some manuals
show the rail screws only go to 17-20 ft.lbs. I've seen manuals that show
100 and that's freeking wrong, and a great way to strip threads.
Check the injectors with an ohmmeter, should be about 14-17 ohms each.
If you do take the injectors off to clean them, don't poke anything into the
injectors nozzle hole, that will screw it up easily. Just let the ends soak
in some solvent. If you want to shell out about 20$ each you should be able
to find a local diesel shop that will flow-test and clean your injectors.
Takes them about a day.
With the injectors out, you can clean the intake rail of oil buildup from the
CCV system. I use an old spoke brush and solvent. (work outside and wear eye
protection it splatters like hell)
Take a close look at the exhaust and intake valves for any excessive carbon
buildup. take a vacuum and while holding it at the port, loosen any of the
carbon with a screwdriver. Don't go nuts here. Some carbon is normal.
If you want to clean the whole system I suggest paying someone about 130 to
run a motorvac on it. http://www.motorvac.com That thing will clean everything.
Make sure you clean the block face. (remember to put paper towel in the intake
and exhaust ports to keep stuff out of the block. I used solvent on a scrubby
(steel wool pad) to make sure the face was clean. Watch out for any stuck old
gasket.
While I'm thinking of it. Don't underestimate the amount of fuel that rail
holds. I drenched my shoes last time the rail was off. :(
After your done and cycled the engine (hot/cool) go over the bolts again and
check the torque. The bolt way at the back gave me a bit of problems. Check
them the next day and then again about 3-4 days later. After that everything
should be settled. Don't overtorque! Just check to spec.
The cone washers and bolts are reusable.
Final note... do not overtorque the front bolt. It is into some thin casting
and can distort the #1 cyl.
Mmmm, good coffee. ::)
--
DougW
> Thanks Doug. I already have your site in my favorites and your site was the
> catalist for this little project. Are there any improvements to be done to
> the intake manifold while I have it off?
Apart from spending a couple of days doing a port&polish. :)
(nah, that's if you have the head off)
You can match the intake and head by cleaning off any overhanging
casting material from the intake rail and head. Basically you use the gasket
to mark where material can be removed. The idea is to make the intake,
gasket, and head match up as perfect as possible. (don't grind off the
fuel injector bump, that's needed to swirl the mix) You also check the
gasket to make sure it doesn't intrude into the air stream and remove
(with a razor) the bit that overhangs. Handle the gasket with care.
If you put a wrinkle in it it may not seal up properly.
It's possible to take the intake off without taking the fuel injector
rail off. If you do be very careful to pull evenly. Rails are expensive.
You will also need new O rings. NAPA has them. A bit of motor oil makes
them easier to install. What ever you do, don't loose the injector clips,
DC thinks those things are made of platinum. And despite what some manuals
show the rail screws only go to 17-20 ft.lbs. I've seen manuals that show
100 and that's freeking wrong, and a great way to strip threads.
Check the injectors with an ohmmeter, should be about 14-17 ohms each.
If you do take the injectors off to clean them, don't poke anything into the
injectors nozzle hole, that will screw it up easily. Just let the ends soak
in some solvent. If you want to shell out about 20$ each you should be able
to find a local diesel shop that will flow-test and clean your injectors.
Takes them about a day.
With the injectors out, you can clean the intake rail of oil buildup from the
CCV system. I use an old spoke brush and solvent. (work outside and wear eye
protection it splatters like hell)
Take a close look at the exhaust and intake valves for any excessive carbon
buildup. take a vacuum and while holding it at the port, loosen any of the
carbon with a screwdriver. Don't go nuts here. Some carbon is normal.
If you want to clean the whole system I suggest paying someone about 130 to
run a motorvac on it. http://www.motorvac.com That thing will clean everything.
Make sure you clean the block face. (remember to put paper towel in the intake
and exhaust ports to keep stuff out of the block. I used solvent on a scrubby
(steel wool pad) to make sure the face was clean. Watch out for any stuck old
gasket.
While I'm thinking of it. Don't underestimate the amount of fuel that rail
holds. I drenched my shoes last time the rail was off. :(
After your done and cycled the engine (hot/cool) go over the bolts again and
check the torque. The bolt way at the back gave me a bit of problems. Check
them the next day and then again about 3-4 days later. After that everything
should be settled. Don't overtorque! Just check to spec.
The cone washers and bolts are reusable.
Final note... do not overtorque the front bolt. It is into some thin casting
and can distort the #1 cyl.
Mmmm, good coffee. ::)
--
DougW
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Banks Headers?
bushman did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Doug. I already have your site in my favorites and your site was the
> catalist for this little project. Are there any improvements to be done to
> the intake manifold while I have it off?
Apart from spending a couple of days doing a port&polish. :)
(nah, that's if you have the head off)
You can match the intake and head by cleaning off any overhanging
casting material from the intake rail and head. Basically you use the gasket
to mark where material can be removed. The idea is to make the intake,
gasket, and head match up as perfect as possible. (don't grind off the
fuel injector bump, that's needed to swirl the mix) You also check the
gasket to make sure it doesn't intrude into the air stream and remove
(with a razor) the bit that overhangs. Handle the gasket with care.
If you put a wrinkle in it it may not seal up properly.
It's possible to take the intake off without taking the fuel injector
rail off. If you do be very careful to pull evenly. Rails are expensive.
You will also need new O rings. NAPA has them. A bit of motor oil makes
them easier to install. What ever you do, don't loose the injector clips,
DC thinks those things are made of platinum. And despite what some manuals
show the rail screws only go to 17-20 ft.lbs. I've seen manuals that show
100 and that's freeking wrong, and a great way to strip threads.
Check the injectors with an ohmmeter, should be about 14-17 ohms each.
If you do take the injectors off to clean them, don't poke anything into the
injectors nozzle hole, that will screw it up easily. Just let the ends soak
in some solvent. If you want to shell out about 20$ each you should be able
to find a local diesel shop that will flow-test and clean your injectors.
Takes them about a day.
With the injectors out, you can clean the intake rail of oil buildup from the
CCV system. I use an old spoke brush and solvent. (work outside and wear eye
protection it splatters like hell)
Take a close look at the exhaust and intake valves for any excessive carbon
buildup. take a vacuum and while holding it at the port, loosen any of the
carbon with a screwdriver. Don't go nuts here. Some carbon is normal.
If you want to clean the whole system I suggest paying someone about 130 to
run a motorvac on it. http://www.motorvac.com That thing will clean everything.
Make sure you clean the block face. (remember to put paper towel in the intake
and exhaust ports to keep stuff out of the block. I used solvent on a scrubby
(steel wool pad) to make sure the face was clean. Watch out for any stuck old
gasket.
While I'm thinking of it. Don't underestimate the amount of fuel that rail
holds. I drenched my shoes last time the rail was off. :(
After your done and cycled the engine (hot/cool) go over the bolts again and
check the torque. The bolt way at the back gave me a bit of problems. Check
them the next day and then again about 3-4 days later. After that everything
should be settled. Don't overtorque! Just check to spec.
The cone washers and bolts are reusable.
Final note... do not overtorque the front bolt. It is into some thin casting
and can distort the #1 cyl.
Mmmm, good coffee. ::)
--
DougW
> Thanks Doug. I already have your site in my favorites and your site was the
> catalist for this little project. Are there any improvements to be done to
> the intake manifold while I have it off?
Apart from spending a couple of days doing a port&polish. :)
(nah, that's if you have the head off)
You can match the intake and head by cleaning off any overhanging
casting material from the intake rail and head. Basically you use the gasket
to mark where material can be removed. The idea is to make the intake,
gasket, and head match up as perfect as possible. (don't grind off the
fuel injector bump, that's needed to swirl the mix) You also check the
gasket to make sure it doesn't intrude into the air stream and remove
(with a razor) the bit that overhangs. Handle the gasket with care.
If you put a wrinkle in it it may not seal up properly.
It's possible to take the intake off without taking the fuel injector
rail off. If you do be very careful to pull evenly. Rails are expensive.
You will also need new O rings. NAPA has them. A bit of motor oil makes
them easier to install. What ever you do, don't loose the injector clips,
DC thinks those things are made of platinum. And despite what some manuals
show the rail screws only go to 17-20 ft.lbs. I've seen manuals that show
100 and that's freeking wrong, and a great way to strip threads.
Check the injectors with an ohmmeter, should be about 14-17 ohms each.
If you do take the injectors off to clean them, don't poke anything into the
injectors nozzle hole, that will screw it up easily. Just let the ends soak
in some solvent. If you want to shell out about 20$ each you should be able
to find a local diesel shop that will flow-test and clean your injectors.
Takes them about a day.
With the injectors out, you can clean the intake rail of oil buildup from the
CCV system. I use an old spoke brush and solvent. (work outside and wear eye
protection it splatters like hell)
Take a close look at the exhaust and intake valves for any excessive carbon
buildup. take a vacuum and while holding it at the port, loosen any of the
carbon with a screwdriver. Don't go nuts here. Some carbon is normal.
If you want to clean the whole system I suggest paying someone about 130 to
run a motorvac on it. http://www.motorvac.com That thing will clean everything.
Make sure you clean the block face. (remember to put paper towel in the intake
and exhaust ports to keep stuff out of the block. I used solvent on a scrubby
(steel wool pad) to make sure the face was clean. Watch out for any stuck old
gasket.
While I'm thinking of it. Don't underestimate the amount of fuel that rail
holds. I drenched my shoes last time the rail was off. :(
After your done and cycled the engine (hot/cool) go over the bolts again and
check the torque. The bolt way at the back gave me a bit of problems. Check
them the next day and then again about 3-4 days later. After that everything
should be settled. Don't overtorque! Just check to spec.
The cone washers and bolts are reusable.
Final note... do not overtorque the front bolt. It is into some thin casting
and can distort the #1 cyl.
Mmmm, good coffee. ::)
--
DougW
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Banks Headers?
bushman did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Doug. I already have your site in my favorites and your site was the
> catalist for this little project. Are there any improvements to be done to
> the intake manifold while I have it off?
Apart from spending a couple of days doing a port&polish. :)
(nah, that's if you have the head off)
You can match the intake and head by cleaning off any overhanging
casting material from the intake rail and head. Basically you use the gasket
to mark where material can be removed. The idea is to make the intake,
gasket, and head match up as perfect as possible. (don't grind off the
fuel injector bump, that's needed to swirl the mix) You also check the
gasket to make sure it doesn't intrude into the air stream and remove
(with a razor) the bit that overhangs. Handle the gasket with care.
If you put a wrinkle in it it may not seal up properly.
It's possible to take the intake off without taking the fuel injector
rail off. If you do be very careful to pull evenly. Rails are expensive.
You will also need new O rings. NAPA has them. A bit of motor oil makes
them easier to install. What ever you do, don't loose the injector clips,
DC thinks those things are made of platinum. And despite what some manuals
show the rail screws only go to 17-20 ft.lbs. I've seen manuals that show
100 and that's freeking wrong, and a great way to strip threads.
Check the injectors with an ohmmeter, should be about 14-17 ohms each.
If you do take the injectors off to clean them, don't poke anything into the
injectors nozzle hole, that will screw it up easily. Just let the ends soak
in some solvent. If you want to shell out about 20$ each you should be able
to find a local diesel shop that will flow-test and clean your injectors.
Takes them about a day.
With the injectors out, you can clean the intake rail of oil buildup from the
CCV system. I use an old spoke brush and solvent. (work outside and wear eye
protection it splatters like hell)
Take a close look at the exhaust and intake valves for any excessive carbon
buildup. take a vacuum and while holding it at the port, loosen any of the
carbon with a screwdriver. Don't go nuts here. Some carbon is normal.
If you want to clean the whole system I suggest paying someone about 130 to
run a motorvac on it. http://www.motorvac.com That thing will clean everything.
Make sure you clean the block face. (remember to put paper towel in the intake
and exhaust ports to keep stuff out of the block. I used solvent on a scrubby
(steel wool pad) to make sure the face was clean. Watch out for any stuck old
gasket.
While I'm thinking of it. Don't underestimate the amount of fuel that rail
holds. I drenched my shoes last time the rail was off. :(
After your done and cycled the engine (hot/cool) go over the bolts again and
check the torque. The bolt way at the back gave me a bit of problems. Check
them the next day and then again about 3-4 days later. After that everything
should be settled. Don't overtorque! Just check to spec.
The cone washers and bolts are reusable.
Final note... do not overtorque the front bolt. It is into some thin casting
and can distort the #1 cyl.
Mmmm, good coffee. ::)
--
DougW
> Thanks Doug. I already have your site in my favorites and your site was the
> catalist for this little project. Are there any improvements to be done to
> the intake manifold while I have it off?
Apart from spending a couple of days doing a port&polish. :)
(nah, that's if you have the head off)
You can match the intake and head by cleaning off any overhanging
casting material from the intake rail and head. Basically you use the gasket
to mark where material can be removed. The idea is to make the intake,
gasket, and head match up as perfect as possible. (don't grind off the
fuel injector bump, that's needed to swirl the mix) You also check the
gasket to make sure it doesn't intrude into the air stream and remove
(with a razor) the bit that overhangs. Handle the gasket with care.
If you put a wrinkle in it it may not seal up properly.
It's possible to take the intake off without taking the fuel injector
rail off. If you do be very careful to pull evenly. Rails are expensive.
You will also need new O rings. NAPA has them. A bit of motor oil makes
them easier to install. What ever you do, don't loose the injector clips,
DC thinks those things are made of platinum. And despite what some manuals
show the rail screws only go to 17-20 ft.lbs. I've seen manuals that show
100 and that's freeking wrong, and a great way to strip threads.
Check the injectors with an ohmmeter, should be about 14-17 ohms each.
If you do take the injectors off to clean them, don't poke anything into the
injectors nozzle hole, that will screw it up easily. Just let the ends soak
in some solvent. If you want to shell out about 20$ each you should be able
to find a local diesel shop that will flow-test and clean your injectors.
Takes them about a day.
With the injectors out, you can clean the intake rail of oil buildup from the
CCV system. I use an old spoke brush and solvent. (work outside and wear eye
protection it splatters like hell)
Take a close look at the exhaust and intake valves for any excessive carbon
buildup. take a vacuum and while holding it at the port, loosen any of the
carbon with a screwdriver. Don't go nuts here. Some carbon is normal.
If you want to clean the whole system I suggest paying someone about 130 to
run a motorvac on it. http://www.motorvac.com That thing will clean everything.
Make sure you clean the block face. (remember to put paper towel in the intake
and exhaust ports to keep stuff out of the block. I used solvent on a scrubby
(steel wool pad) to make sure the face was clean. Watch out for any stuck old
gasket.
While I'm thinking of it. Don't underestimate the amount of fuel that rail
holds. I drenched my shoes last time the rail was off. :(
After your done and cycled the engine (hot/cool) go over the bolts again and
check the torque. The bolt way at the back gave me a bit of problems. Check
them the next day and then again about 3-4 days later. After that everything
should be settled. Don't overtorque! Just check to spec.
The cone washers and bolts are reusable.
Final note... do not overtorque the front bolt. It is into some thin casting
and can distort the #1 cyl.
Mmmm, good coffee. ::)
--
DougW
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Banks Headers?
Thanks Doug. I already have your webpage in my favorites and was a source
for me starting this project. I talked to the Banks folks today and he
guaranteed I would get 22.7HP if I bought both the header and catback. Wow
that seems like a lot for a system with the same diameter as stock and uses
30% of the stock system. He is unable to provide any photos of the header
for newer TJs. Hmmmm.....
Allen who is posting this for the third time.
for me starting this project. I talked to the Banks folks today and he
guaranteed I would get 22.7HP if I bought both the header and catback. Wow
that seems like a lot for a system with the same diameter as stock and uses
30% of the stock system. He is unable to provide any photos of the header
for newer TJs. Hmmmm.....
Allen who is posting this for the third time.
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Banks Headers?
Thanks Doug. I already have your webpage in my favorites and was a source
for me starting this project. I talked to the Banks folks today and he
guaranteed I would get 22.7HP if I bought both the header and catback. Wow
that seems like a lot for a system with the same diameter as stock and uses
30% of the stock system. He is unable to provide any photos of the header
for newer TJs. Hmmmm.....
Allen who is posting this for the third time.
for me starting this project. I talked to the Banks folks today and he
guaranteed I would get 22.7HP if I bought both the header and catback. Wow
that seems like a lot for a system with the same diameter as stock and uses
30% of the stock system. He is unable to provide any photos of the header
for newer TJs. Hmmmm.....
Allen who is posting this for the third time.
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Banks Headers?
Thanks Doug. I already have your webpage in my favorites and was a source
for me starting this project. I talked to the Banks folks today and he
guaranteed I would get 22.7HP if I bought both the header and catback. Wow
that seems like a lot for a system with the same diameter as stock and uses
30% of the stock system. He is unable to provide any photos of the header
for newer TJs. Hmmmm.....
Allen who is posting this for the third time.
for me starting this project. I talked to the Banks folks today and he
guaranteed I would get 22.7HP if I bought both the header and catback. Wow
that seems like a lot for a system with the same diameter as stock and uses
30% of the stock system. He is unable to provide any photos of the header
for newer TJs. Hmmmm.....
Allen who is posting this for the third time.
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Banks Headers?
bushman did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Doug. I already have your webpage in my favorites and was a source
> for me starting this project. I talked to the Banks folks today and he
> guaranteed I would get 22.7HP if I bought both the header and catback. Wow
> that seems like a lot for a system with the same diameter as stock and uses
> 30% of the stock system. He is unable to provide any photos of the header
> for newer TJs. Hmmmm.....
> Allen who is posting this for the third time.
Actually it's larger than stock. The only part that you didn't mention
(and I think they no longer make) is the S pipe (the bit between the header
and the cat). But that can be fabbed up by any good muffler shop.
You can get a high-flow cat for about 100-130 depending on where you are, but
the stock one flows well and muffler shops leagally shouldn't replace an OEM
cat unless it's busted or clogged.
If you have someone make a new S pipe for you have them put in two bungs.
One for the stock O2 sensor and one for a pyrometer if you ever want to get
one. (bungs are much easier to weld in when the pipe is off)
As for the 22hp gain.. mebby. I can't say anything for sure except it sure
sounds nice.. burble burble burble... and much less noisy than the ol smiling
(cracked) header that was in there. I went with the Gibson aluminized cat-back.
The only thing shiny on it now is the stainless tip. The rest is a nice rust
color. Didn't worry much about having a shiny muffler since it gets bitten
by the occasional rock anyway.
--
DougW
> Thanks Doug. I already have your webpage in my favorites and was a source
> for me starting this project. I talked to the Banks folks today and he
> guaranteed I would get 22.7HP if I bought both the header and catback. Wow
> that seems like a lot for a system with the same diameter as stock and uses
> 30% of the stock system. He is unable to provide any photos of the header
> for newer TJs. Hmmmm.....
> Allen who is posting this for the third time.
Actually it's larger than stock. The only part that you didn't mention
(and I think they no longer make) is the S pipe (the bit between the header
and the cat). But that can be fabbed up by any good muffler shop.
You can get a high-flow cat for about 100-130 depending on where you are, but
the stock one flows well and muffler shops leagally shouldn't replace an OEM
cat unless it's busted or clogged.
If you have someone make a new S pipe for you have them put in two bungs.
One for the stock O2 sensor and one for a pyrometer if you ever want to get
one. (bungs are much easier to weld in when the pipe is off)
As for the 22hp gain.. mebby. I can't say anything for sure except it sure
sounds nice.. burble burble burble... and much less noisy than the ol smiling
(cracked) header that was in there. I went with the Gibson aluminized cat-back.
The only thing shiny on it now is the stainless tip. The rest is a nice rust
color. Didn't worry much about having a shiny muffler since it gets bitten
by the occasional rock anyway.
--
DougW