ball joint pricing
11-18-2006, 11:54 AM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ball joint pricing
You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
that tire.
Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on the
steering column just by the firewall.
You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while you
watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop, or up
and down slop.
Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
tape measure as mentioned earlier.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
bspear78 wrote:
>
> Went to a garage, put it up on a lift and saw no signs of bad ball
> joints. the tires were solid when I tried to move them. Nothing loose.
> Steering is fine except that it is not as tight as I would like. maybe
> an alignment would help that, or it could be something else in the
> front end.
>
> Bryan 97 TJ BFG 30x9.5 AT
> Carl wrote:
> > Like death wobble but scarier. Also, a wheel and brake assembly flying off
> > is a good sign that ball joint was going out.
> >
> > Carl
> >
> > "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:YVt7h.44208$HD6.4749@tornado.southeast.rr.com ...
> > > Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My Cherokee
> > > is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the 2nd best car
> > > I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned about the ball
> > > joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it.
> > >
> > > (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed,
> > > bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and
> > > the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 water
> > > pump!)
> > >
> > > Jeff DeWitt
> > >
> > > bspear78 wrote:
> > >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a
> > >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought
> > >> that was high. bryan 97 TJ
> > >>
and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
that tire.
Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on the
steering column just by the firewall.
You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while you
watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop, or up
and down slop.
Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
tape measure as mentioned earlier.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
bspear78 wrote:
>
> Went to a garage, put it up on a lift and saw no signs of bad ball
> joints. the tires were solid when I tried to move them. Nothing loose.
> Steering is fine except that it is not as tight as I would like. maybe
> an alignment would help that, or it could be something else in the
> front end.
>
> Bryan 97 TJ BFG 30x9.5 AT
> Carl wrote:
> > Like death wobble but scarier. Also, a wheel and brake assembly flying off
> > is a good sign that ball joint was going out.
> >
> > Carl
> >
> > "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:YVt7h.44208$HD6.4749@tornado.southeast.rr.com ...
> > > Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My Cherokee
> > > is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the 2nd best car
> > > I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned about the ball
> > > joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it.
> > >
> > > (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed,
> > > bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and
> > > the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 water
> > > pump!)
> > >
> > > Jeff DeWitt
> > >
> > > bspear78 wrote:
> > >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a
> > >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought
> > >> that was high. bryan 97 TJ
> > >>
11-18-2006, 12:37 PM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ball joint pricing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
> that tire.
>
> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
> the steering column just by the firewall.
>
> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
> or up and down slop.
>
> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
> tape measure as mentioned earlier.
I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
(electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
the pop/sucking noise.
End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
--
DougW
> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
> that tire.
>
> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
> the steering column just by the firewall.
>
> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
> or up and down slop.
>
> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
> tape measure as mentioned earlier.
I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
(electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
the pop/sucking noise.
End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
--
DougW
11-18-2006, 12:37 PM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ball joint pricing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
> that tire.
>
> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
> the steering column just by the firewall.
>
> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
> or up and down slop.
>
> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
> tape measure as mentioned earlier.
I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
(electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
the pop/sucking noise.
End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
--
DougW
> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
> that tire.
>
> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
> the steering column just by the firewall.
>
> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
> or up and down slop.
>
> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
> tape measure as mentioned earlier.
I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
(electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
the pop/sucking noise.
End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
--
DougW
11-18-2006, 12:37 PM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ball joint pricing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
> that tire.
>
> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
> the steering column just by the firewall.
>
> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
> or up and down slop.
>
> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
> tape measure as mentioned earlier.
I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
(electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
the pop/sucking noise.
End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
--
DougW
> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
> that tire.
>
> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
> the steering column just by the firewall.
>
> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
> or up and down slop.
>
> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
> tape measure as mentioned earlier.
I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
(electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
the pop/sucking noise.
End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
--
DougW
11-18-2006, 02:17 PM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ball joint pricing
On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 11:37:50 -0600, DougW wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
>> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
>> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
>> that tire.
>>
>> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
>> the steering column just by the firewall.
>>
>> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
>> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
>> or up and down slop.
>>
>> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
>> tape measure as mentioned earlier.
>
> I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
> enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
> is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
> on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
>
> Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
> out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
> free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
> (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
> under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
> the pop/sucking noise.
>
> End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
> that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
> a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
>
> Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
You can pretty much the same result for free. Get a helper to sit behind
the wheel. Slide under the front and wrap your hand around the tie rod
ends. Have the helper turn the wheel back and forth - not too far, just
to the point where they feel the full resistance. Any slop in the tie
rod ends will be easily felt. Same thing works for any ball and socket
setup, but the ball joints and the trackbar are a little hard to get hold
of.
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
>> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
>> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
>> that tire.
>>
>> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
>> the steering column just by the firewall.
>>
>> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
>> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
>> or up and down slop.
>>
>> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
>> tape measure as mentioned earlier.
>
> I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
> enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
> is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
> on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
>
> Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
> out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
> free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
> (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
> under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
> the pop/sucking noise.
>
> End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
> that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
> a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
>
> Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
You can pretty much the same result for free. Get a helper to sit behind
the wheel. Slide under the front and wrap your hand around the tie rod
ends. Have the helper turn the wheel back and forth - not too far, just
to the point where they feel the full resistance. Any slop in the tie
rod ends will be easily felt. Same thing works for any ball and socket
setup, but the ball joints and the trackbar are a little hard to get hold
of.
11-18-2006, 02:17 PM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ball joint pricing
On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 11:37:50 -0600, DougW wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
>> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
>> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
>> that tire.
>>
>> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
>> the steering column just by the firewall.
>>
>> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
>> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
>> or up and down slop.
>>
>> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
>> tape measure as mentioned earlier.
>
> I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
> enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
> is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
> on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
>
> Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
> out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
> free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
> (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
> under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
> the pop/sucking noise.
>
> End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
> that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
> a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
>
> Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
You can pretty much the same result for free. Get a helper to sit behind
the wheel. Slide under the front and wrap your hand around the tie rod
ends. Have the helper turn the wheel back and forth - not too far, just
to the point where they feel the full resistance. Any slop in the tie
rod ends will be easily felt. Same thing works for any ball and socket
setup, but the ball joints and the trackbar are a little hard to get hold
of.
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
>> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
>> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
>> that tire.
>>
>> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
>> the steering column just by the firewall.
>>
>> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
>> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
>> or up and down slop.
>>
>> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
>> tape measure as mentioned earlier.
>
> I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
> enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
> is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
> on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
>
> Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
> out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
> free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
> (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
> under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
> the pop/sucking noise.
>
> End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
> that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
> a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
>
> Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
You can pretty much the same result for free. Get a helper to sit behind
the wheel. Slide under the front and wrap your hand around the tie rod
ends. Have the helper turn the wheel back and forth - not too far, just
to the point where they feel the full resistance. Any slop in the tie
rod ends will be easily felt. Same thing works for any ball and socket
setup, but the ball joints and the trackbar are a little hard to get hold
of.
11-18-2006, 02:17 PM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ball joint pricing
On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 11:37:50 -0600, DougW wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
>> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
>> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
>> that tire.
>>
>> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
>> the steering column just by the firewall.
>>
>> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
>> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
>> or up and down slop.
>>
>> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
>> tape measure as mentioned earlier.
>
> I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
> enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
> is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
> on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
>
> Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
> out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
> free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
> (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
> under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
> the pop/sucking noise.
>
> End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
> that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
> a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
>
> Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
You can pretty much the same result for free. Get a helper to sit behind
the wheel. Slide under the front and wrap your hand around the tie rod
ends. Have the helper turn the wheel back and forth - not too far, just
to the point where they feel the full resistance. Any slop in the tie
rod ends will be easily felt. Same thing works for any ball and socket
setup, but the ball joints and the trackbar are a little hard to get hold
of.
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
>> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
>> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
>> that tire.
>>
>> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
>> the steering column just by the firewall.
>>
>> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
>> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
>> or up and down slop.
>>
>> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
>> tape measure as mentioned earlier.
>
> I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
> enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
> is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
> on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
>
> Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
> out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
> free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
> (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
> under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
> the pop/sucking noise.
>
> End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
> that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
> a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
>
> Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
You can pretty much the same result for free. Get a helper to sit behind
the wheel. Slide under the front and wrap your hand around the tie rod
ends. Have the helper turn the wheel back and forth - not too far, just
to the point where they feel the full resistance. Any slop in the tie
rod ends will be easily felt. Same thing works for any ball and socket
setup, but the ball joints and the trackbar are a little hard to get hold
of.
11-18-2006, 02:44 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ball joint pricing
My XJ tracks straight and the wheels don't look tilted. The only thing
it does weird is once in a while there is a sort of "chunk" that sounds
like it's coming from the front, most often when backing up. There is
no funny tire wear either.
Jeff DeWitt
DougW wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>>You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
>>and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
>>either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
>>that tire.
>>
>>Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
>>the steering column just by the firewall.
>>
>>You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
>>you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
>>or up and down slop.
>>
>>Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
>>tape measure as mentioned earlier.
>
>
> I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
> enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
> is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
> on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
>
> Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
> out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
> free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
> (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
> under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
> the pop/sucking noise.
>
> End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
> that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
> a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
>
> Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
>
it does weird is once in a while there is a sort of "chunk" that sounds
like it's coming from the front, most often when backing up. There is
no funny tire wear either.
Jeff DeWitt
DougW wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>>You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
>>and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
>>either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
>>that tire.
>>
>>Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
>>the steering column just by the firewall.
>>
>>You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
>>you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
>>or up and down slop.
>>
>>Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
>>tape measure as mentioned earlier.
>
>
> I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
> enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
> is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
> on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
>
> Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
> out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
> free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
> (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
> under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
> the pop/sucking noise.
>
> End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
> that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
> a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
>
> Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
>
11-18-2006, 02:44 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ball joint pricing
My XJ tracks straight and the wheels don't look tilted. The only thing
it does weird is once in a while there is a sort of "chunk" that sounds
like it's coming from the front, most often when backing up. There is
no funny tire wear either.
Jeff DeWitt
DougW wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>>You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
>>and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
>>either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
>>that tire.
>>
>>Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
>>the steering column just by the firewall.
>>
>>You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
>>you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
>>or up and down slop.
>>
>>Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
>>tape measure as mentioned earlier.
>
>
> I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
> enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
> is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
> on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
>
> Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
> out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
> free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
> (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
> under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
> the pop/sucking noise.
>
> End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
> that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
> a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
>
> Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
>
it does weird is once in a while there is a sort of "chunk" that sounds
like it's coming from the front, most often when backing up. There is
no funny tire wear either.
Jeff DeWitt
DougW wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>>You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
>>and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
>>either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
>>that tire.
>>
>>Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
>>the steering column just by the firewall.
>>
>>You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
>>you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
>>or up and down slop.
>>
>>Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
>>tape measure as mentioned earlier.
>
>
> I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
> enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
> is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
> on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
>
> Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
> out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
> free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
> (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
> under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
> the pop/sucking noise.
>
> End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
> that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
> a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
>
> Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
>
11-18-2006, 02:44 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ball joint pricing
My XJ tracks straight and the wheels don't look tilted. The only thing
it does weird is once in a while there is a sort of "chunk" that sounds
like it's coming from the front, most often when backing up. There is
no funny tire wear either.
Jeff DeWitt
DougW wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>>You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
>>and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
>>either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
>>that tire.
>>
>>Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
>>the steering column just by the firewall.
>>
>>You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
>>you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
>>or up and down slop.
>>
>>Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
>>tape measure as mentioned earlier.
>
>
> I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
> enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
> is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
> on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
>
> Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
> out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
> free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
> (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
> under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
> the pop/sucking noise.
>
> End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
> that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
> a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
>
> Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
>
it does weird is once in a while there is a sort of "chunk" that sounds
like it's coming from the front, most often when backing up. There is
no funny tire wear either.
Jeff DeWitt
DougW wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>>You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
>>and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out
>>either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on
>>that tire.
>>
>>Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on
>>the steering column just by the firewall.
>>
>>You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while
>>you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop,
>>or up and down slop.
>>
>>Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a
>>tape measure as mentioned earlier.
>
>
> I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not
> enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint
> is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force
> on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn.
>
> Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed
> out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and
> free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears"
> (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels
> under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear
> the pop/sucking noise.
>
> End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so
> that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such
> a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :)
>
> Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool.
>
