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ball joint pricing
what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a
garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought that was high. bryan 97 TJ |
Re: ball joint pricing
Depending on where NTB gets their parts, prices vary a lot. I would think the labor would be about 2 hours + front end alignment. I think your best price would be no less than $220 parts, $240 labor. This would include the front end alignment. Paul Nelson 03 Rubi in article 1163714479.075935.314090@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.c om, bspear78 at bspear78@hotmail.com wrote on 11/16/06 4:01 PM: > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > > bryan 97 TJ > |
Re: ball joint pricing
Depending on where NTB gets their parts, prices vary a lot. I would think the labor would be about 2 hours + front end alignment. I think your best price would be no less than $220 parts, $240 labor. This would include the front end alignment. Paul Nelson 03 Rubi in article 1163714479.075935.314090@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.c om, bspear78 at bspear78@hotmail.com wrote on 11/16/06 4:01 PM: > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > > bryan 97 TJ > |
Re: ball joint pricing
Depending on where NTB gets their parts, prices vary a lot. I would think the labor would be about 2 hours + front end alignment. I think your best price would be no less than $220 parts, $240 labor. This would include the front end alignment. Paul Nelson 03 Rubi in article 1163714479.075935.314090@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.c om, bspear78 at bspear78@hotmail.com wrote on 11/16/06 4:01 PM: > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > > bryan 97 TJ > |
Re: ball joint pricing
Paul Nelson wrote:
> Depending on where NTB gets their parts, prices vary a lot. I would > think the labor would be about 2 hours + front end alignment. > > I think your best price would be no less than $220 parts, $240 labor. > This would include the front end alignment. > > Paul Nelson > 03 Rubi > > > bspear78 wrote: > >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I >> thought that was high. >> >> >> bryan 97 TJ Napa sez (note I price NCP Napa Chassis Part and not MRC) MRC is the lower end and just isn't that good a part. MRC is about 25$ each for upper and lower. Ball Joint Upper NCP 2601291 $50 Ball Joint Lower NCP 2601292 $56 So that's $212 in parts for both sides. (plus tax) While your in there may as well check all the steering joints and track bar. -- DougW |
Re: ball joint pricing
Paul Nelson wrote:
> Depending on where NTB gets their parts, prices vary a lot. I would > think the labor would be about 2 hours + front end alignment. > > I think your best price would be no less than $220 parts, $240 labor. > This would include the front end alignment. > > Paul Nelson > 03 Rubi > > > bspear78 wrote: > >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I >> thought that was high. >> >> >> bryan 97 TJ Napa sez (note I price NCP Napa Chassis Part and not MRC) MRC is the lower end and just isn't that good a part. MRC is about 25$ each for upper and lower. Ball Joint Upper NCP 2601291 $50 Ball Joint Lower NCP 2601292 $56 So that's $212 in parts for both sides. (plus tax) While your in there may as well check all the steering joints and track bar. -- DougW |
Re: ball joint pricing
Paul Nelson wrote:
> Depending on where NTB gets their parts, prices vary a lot. I would > think the labor would be about 2 hours + front end alignment. > > I think your best price would be no less than $220 parts, $240 labor. > This would include the front end alignment. > > Paul Nelson > 03 Rubi > > > bspear78 wrote: > >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I >> thought that was high. >> >> >> bryan 97 TJ Napa sez (note I price NCP Napa Chassis Part and not MRC) MRC is the lower end and just isn't that good a part. MRC is about 25$ each for upper and lower. Ball Joint Upper NCP 2601291 $50 Ball Joint Lower NCP 2601292 $56 So that's $212 in parts for both sides. (plus tax) While your in there may as well check all the steering joints and track bar. -- DougW |
Re: ball joint pricing
bspear78 wrote:
> > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > bryan 97 TJ Well to just pull the axles and replace seals they want that kind of money so changing the ball joints on top of pulling the axles, well..... It is a pretty labor intensive job. I would still shop around for pricing. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: ball joint pricing
bspear78 wrote:
> > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > bryan 97 TJ Well to just pull the axles and replace seals they want that kind of money so changing the ball joints on top of pulling the axles, well..... It is a pretty labor intensive job. I would still shop around for pricing. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: ball joint pricing
bspear78 wrote:
> > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > bryan 97 TJ Well to just pull the axles and replace seals they want that kind of money so changing the ball joints on top of pulling the axles, well..... It is a pretty labor intensive job. I would still shop around for pricing. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: ball joint pricing
http://members.citynet.net/trailjeep/balljoint.html
http://members.cox.net/rough-riders/...30/dana30.html God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ bspear78 wrote: > > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > bryan 97 TJ |
Re: ball joint pricing
http://members.citynet.net/trailjeep/balljoint.html
http://members.cox.net/rough-riders/...30/dana30.html God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ bspear78 wrote: > > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > bryan 97 TJ |
Re: ball joint pricing
http://members.citynet.net/trailjeep/balljoint.html
http://members.cox.net/rough-riders/...30/dana30.html God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ bspear78 wrote: > > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > bryan 97 TJ |
Re: ball joint pricing
Wow 800 huh? I had mine quoted at $600... so I went out and bough the big
c-clamp and balljoints and did it myself for less than half. Some people said you can just pop them out with a hammer but I couldn't no matter how hard I popped them with a 3lb hammer, so I had to use the c-clamp, AND hit it with the hammer. Troy bspear78 wrote: > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > > bryan 97 TJ |
Re: ball joint pricing
Wow 800 huh? I had mine quoted at $600... so I went out and bough the big
c-clamp and balljoints and did it myself for less than half. Some people said you can just pop them out with a hammer but I couldn't no matter how hard I popped them with a 3lb hammer, so I had to use the c-clamp, AND hit it with the hammer. Troy bspear78 wrote: > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > > bryan 97 TJ |
Re: ball joint pricing
Wow 800 huh? I had mine quoted at $600... so I went out and bough the big
c-clamp and balljoints and did it myself for less than half. Some people said you can just pop them out with a hammer but I couldn't no matter how hard I popped them with a 3lb hammer, so I had to use the c-clamp, AND hit it with the hammer. Troy bspear78 wrote: > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > > bryan 97 TJ |
Re: ball joint pricing
Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My
Cherokee is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the 2nd best car I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned about the ball joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 water pump!) Jeff DeWitt bspear78 wrote: > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > > bryan 97 TJ > |
Re: ball joint pricing
Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My
Cherokee is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the 2nd best car I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned about the ball joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 water pump!) Jeff DeWitt bspear78 wrote: > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > > bryan 97 TJ > |
Re: ball joint pricing
Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My
Cherokee is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the 2nd best car I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned about the ball joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 water pump!) Jeff DeWitt bspear78 wrote: > what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > that was high. > > > bryan 97 TJ > |
Re: ball joint pricing
Like death wobble but scarier. Also, a wheel and brake assembly flying off
is a good sign that ball joint was going out. Carl "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message news:YVt7h.44208$HD6.4749@tornado.southeast.rr.com ... > Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My Cherokee > is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the 2nd best car > I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned about the ball > joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. > > (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, > bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and > the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 water > pump!) > > Jeff DeWitt > > bspear78 wrote: >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought >> that was high. bryan 97 TJ >> |
Re: ball joint pricing
Like death wobble but scarier. Also, a wheel and brake assembly flying off
is a good sign that ball joint was going out. Carl "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message news:YVt7h.44208$HD6.4749@tornado.southeast.rr.com ... > Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My Cherokee > is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the 2nd best car > I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned about the ball > joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. > > (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, > bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and > the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 water > pump!) > > Jeff DeWitt > > bspear78 wrote: >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought >> that was high. bryan 97 TJ >> |
Re: ball joint pricing
Like death wobble but scarier. Also, a wheel and brake assembly flying off
is a good sign that ball joint was going out. Carl "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message news:YVt7h.44208$HD6.4749@tornado.southeast.rr.com ... > Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My Cherokee > is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the 2nd best car > I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned about the ball > joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. > > (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, > bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and > the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 water > pump!) > > Jeff DeWitt > > bspear78 wrote: >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought >> that was high. bryan 97 TJ >> |
Re: ball joint pricing
Went to a garage, put it up on a lift and saw no signs of bad ball
joints. the tires were solid when I tried to move them. Nothing loose. Steering is fine except that it is not as tight as I would like. maybe an alignment would help that, or it could be something else in the front end. Bryan 97 TJ BFG 30x9.5 AT Carl wrote: > Like death wobble but scarier. Also, a wheel and brake assembly flying off > is a good sign that ball joint was going out. > > Carl > > "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message > news:YVt7h.44208$HD6.4749@tornado.southeast.rr.com ... > > Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My Cherokee > > is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the 2nd best car > > I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned about the ball > > joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. > > > > (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, > > bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and > > the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 water > > pump!) > > > > Jeff DeWitt > > > > bspear78 wrote: > >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > >> that was high. bryan 97 TJ > >> |
Re: ball joint pricing
Went to a garage, put it up on a lift and saw no signs of bad ball
joints. the tires were solid when I tried to move them. Nothing loose. Steering is fine except that it is not as tight as I would like. maybe an alignment would help that, or it could be something else in the front end. Bryan 97 TJ BFG 30x9.5 AT Carl wrote: > Like death wobble but scarier. Also, a wheel and brake assembly flying off > is a good sign that ball joint was going out. > > Carl > > "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message > news:YVt7h.44208$HD6.4749@tornado.southeast.rr.com ... > > Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My Cherokee > > is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the 2nd best car > > I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned about the ball > > joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. > > > > (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, > > bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and > > the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 water > > pump!) > > > > Jeff DeWitt > > > > bspear78 wrote: > >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > >> that was high. bryan 97 TJ > >> |
Re: ball joint pricing
Went to a garage, put it up on a lift and saw no signs of bad ball
joints. the tires were solid when I tried to move them. Nothing loose. Steering is fine except that it is not as tight as I would like. maybe an alignment would help that, or it could be something else in the front end. Bryan 97 TJ BFG 30x9.5 AT Carl wrote: > Like death wobble but scarier. Also, a wheel and brake assembly flying off > is a good sign that ball joint was going out. > > Carl > > "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message > news:YVt7h.44208$HD6.4749@tornado.southeast.rr.com ... > > Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My Cherokee > > is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the 2nd best car > > I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned about the ball > > joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. > > > > (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, > > bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and > > the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 water > > pump!) > > > > Jeff DeWitt > > > > bspear78 wrote: > >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > >> that was high. bryan 97 TJ > >> |
Re: ball joint pricing
On my TJ when the shop showed me my bad balljoints they had it on a short
little lift and pried from the bottom under the tire with a crowbar and yeah I did see it flex a bit. When viewed from the front at a distance with the tires straight I could tell there was a little lean to the inside from the top. When I jacked it up off the ground the wheel was straight so I replaced them now its all good. Hope that helps. So your TJ needs new balljoints or are you chasing down a shimmy problem? Troy bspear78 wrote: > Went to a garage, put it up on a lift and saw no signs of bad ball > joints. the tires were solid when I tried to move them. Nothing loose. > Steering is fine except that it is not as tight as I would like. maybe > an alignment would help that, or it could be something else in the > front end. > > Bryan 97 TJ BFG 30x9.5 AT > Carl wrote: >> Like death wobble but scarier. Also, a wheel and brake assembly flying >> off is a good sign that ball joint was going out. >> >> Carl >> >> "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message >> news:YVt7h.44208$HD6.4749@tornado.southeast.rr.com ... >> > Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My >> > Cherokee is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the >> > 2nd best car I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned >> > about the ball joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. >> > >> > (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, >> > bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and >> > the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 >> > water pump!) >> > >> > Jeff DeWitt >> > >> > bspear78 wrote: >> >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a >> >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I >> >> thought that was high. bryan 97 TJ >> >> |
Re: ball joint pricing
On my TJ when the shop showed me my bad balljoints they had it on a short
little lift and pried from the bottom under the tire with a crowbar and yeah I did see it flex a bit. When viewed from the front at a distance with the tires straight I could tell there was a little lean to the inside from the top. When I jacked it up off the ground the wheel was straight so I replaced them now its all good. Hope that helps. So your TJ needs new balljoints or are you chasing down a shimmy problem? Troy bspear78 wrote: > Went to a garage, put it up on a lift and saw no signs of bad ball > joints. the tires were solid when I tried to move them. Nothing loose. > Steering is fine except that it is not as tight as I would like. maybe > an alignment would help that, or it could be something else in the > front end. > > Bryan 97 TJ BFG 30x9.5 AT > Carl wrote: >> Like death wobble but scarier. Also, a wheel and brake assembly flying >> off is a good sign that ball joint was going out. >> >> Carl >> >> "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message >> news:YVt7h.44208$HD6.4749@tornado.southeast.rr.com ... >> > Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My >> > Cherokee is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the >> > 2nd best car I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned >> > about the ball joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. >> > >> > (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, >> > bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and >> > the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 >> > water pump!) >> > >> > Jeff DeWitt >> > >> > bspear78 wrote: >> >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a >> >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I >> >> thought that was high. bryan 97 TJ >> >> |
Re: ball joint pricing
On my TJ when the shop showed me my bad balljoints they had it on a short
little lift and pried from the bottom under the tire with a crowbar and yeah I did see it flex a bit. When viewed from the front at a distance with the tires straight I could tell there was a little lean to the inside from the top. When I jacked it up off the ground the wheel was straight so I replaced them now its all good. Hope that helps. So your TJ needs new balljoints or are you chasing down a shimmy problem? Troy bspear78 wrote: > Went to a garage, put it up on a lift and saw no signs of bad ball > joints. the tires were solid when I tried to move them. Nothing loose. > Steering is fine except that it is not as tight as I would like. maybe > an alignment would help that, or it could be something else in the > front end. > > Bryan 97 TJ BFG 30x9.5 AT > Carl wrote: >> Like death wobble but scarier. Also, a wheel and brake assembly flying >> off is a good sign that ball joint was going out. >> >> Carl >> >> "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message >> news:YVt7h.44208$HD6.4749@tornado.southeast.rr.com ... >> > Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My >> > Cherokee is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the >> > 2nd best car I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned >> > about the ball joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. >> > >> > (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, >> > bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and >> > the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 >> > water pump!) >> > >> > Jeff DeWitt >> > >> > bspear78 wrote: >> >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a >> >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I >> >> thought that was high. bryan 97 TJ >> >> |
Re: ball joint pricing
You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on that tire. Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on the steering column just by the firewall. You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop, or up and down slop. Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a tape measure as mentioned earlier. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) bspear78 wrote: > > Went to a garage, put it up on a lift and saw no signs of bad ball > joints. the tires were solid when I tried to move them. Nothing loose. > Steering is fine except that it is not as tight as I would like. maybe > an alignment would help that, or it could be something else in the > front end. > > Bryan 97 TJ BFG 30x9.5 AT > Carl wrote: > > Like death wobble but scarier. Also, a wheel and brake assembly flying off > > is a good sign that ball joint was going out. > > > > Carl > > > > "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message > > news:YVt7h.44208$HD6.4749@tornado.southeast.rr.com ... > > > Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My Cherokee > > > is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the 2nd best car > > > I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned about the ball > > > joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. > > > > > > (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, > > > bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and > > > the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 water > > > pump!) > > > > > > Jeff DeWitt > > > > > > bspear78 wrote: > > >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > > >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > > >> that was high. bryan 97 TJ > > >> |
Re: ball joint pricing
You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on that tire. Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on the steering column just by the firewall. You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop, or up and down slop. Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a tape measure as mentioned earlier. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) bspear78 wrote: > > Went to a garage, put it up on a lift and saw no signs of bad ball > joints. the tires were solid when I tried to move them. Nothing loose. > Steering is fine except that it is not as tight as I would like. maybe > an alignment would help that, or it could be something else in the > front end. > > Bryan 97 TJ BFG 30x9.5 AT > Carl wrote: > > Like death wobble but scarier. Also, a wheel and brake assembly flying off > > is a good sign that ball joint was going out. > > > > Carl > > > > "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message > > news:YVt7h.44208$HD6.4749@tornado.southeast.rr.com ... > > > Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My Cherokee > > > is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the 2nd best car > > > I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned about the ball > > > joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. > > > > > > (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, > > > bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and > > > the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 water > > > pump!) > > > > > > Jeff DeWitt > > > > > > bspear78 wrote: > > >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > > >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > > >> that was high. bryan 97 TJ > > >> |
Re: ball joint pricing
You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye
and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on that tire. Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on the steering column just by the firewall. You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop, or up and down slop. Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a tape measure as mentioned earlier. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) bspear78 wrote: > > Went to a garage, put it up on a lift and saw no signs of bad ball > joints. the tires were solid when I tried to move them. Nothing loose. > Steering is fine except that it is not as tight as I would like. maybe > an alignment would help that, or it could be something else in the > front end. > > Bryan 97 TJ BFG 30x9.5 AT > Carl wrote: > > Like death wobble but scarier. Also, a wheel and brake assembly flying off > > is a good sign that ball joint was going out. > > > > Carl > > > > "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message > > news:YVt7h.44208$HD6.4749@tornado.southeast.rr.com ... > > > Related question, what are the symptoms of worn ball joints? My Cherokee > > > is the only "modern" vehicle (except for a Ford Granada, the 2nd best car > > > I ever had) that I've had long enough to be concerned about the ball > > > joints, and the Jeep has over 300,000 miles on it. > > > > > > (That Granada was a 2dr, battleship gray six cylinder with a 4 speed, > > > bought it with 100k on it, sold it with 200k, got more than I paid, and > > > the only thing other than brakes that had to be replaced was an $18 water > > > pump!) > > > > > > Jeff DeWitt > > > > > > bspear78 wrote: > > >> what can I expect to pay for all 4 new ball joints and labor at a > > >> garage?? I dont want to get screwed. NTB quoted me 800.00 and I thought > > >> that was high. bryan 97 TJ > > >> |
Re: ball joint pricing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye > and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out > either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on > that tire. > > Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on > the steering column just by the firewall. > > You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while > you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop, > or up and down slop. > > Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a > tape measure as mentioned earlier. I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn. Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears" (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear the pop/sucking noise. End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :) Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool. -- DougW |
Re: ball joint pricing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye > and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out > either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on > that tire. > > Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on > the steering column just by the firewall. > > You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while > you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop, > or up and down slop. > > Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a > tape measure as mentioned earlier. I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn. Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears" (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear the pop/sucking noise. End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :) Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool. -- DougW |
Re: ball joint pricing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye > and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out > either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on > that tire. > > Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on > the steering column just by the firewall. > > You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while > you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop, > or up and down slop. > > Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a > tape measure as mentioned earlier. I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn. Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears" (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear the pop/sucking noise. End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :) Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool. -- DougW |
Re: ball joint pricing
On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 11:37:50 -0600, DougW wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote: >> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye >> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out >> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on >> that tire. >> >> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on >> the steering column just by the firewall. >> >> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while >> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop, >> or up and down slop. >> >> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a >> tape measure as mentioned earlier. > > I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not > enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint > is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force > on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn. > > Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed > out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and > free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears" > (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels > under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear > the pop/sucking noise. > > End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so > that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such > a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :) > > Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool. You can pretty much the same result for free. Get a helper to sit behind the wheel. Slide under the front and wrap your hand around the tie rod ends. Have the helper turn the wheel back and forth - not too far, just to the point where they feel the full resistance. Any slop in the tie rod ends will be easily felt. Same thing works for any ball and socket setup, but the ball joints and the trackbar are a little hard to get hold of. |
Re: ball joint pricing
On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 11:37:50 -0600, DougW wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote: >> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye >> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out >> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on >> that tire. >> >> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on >> the steering column just by the firewall. >> >> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while >> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop, >> or up and down slop. >> >> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a >> tape measure as mentioned earlier. > > I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not > enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint > is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force > on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn. > > Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed > out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and > free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears" > (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels > under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear > the pop/sucking noise. > > End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so > that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such > a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :) > > Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool. You can pretty much the same result for free. Get a helper to sit behind the wheel. Slide under the front and wrap your hand around the tie rod ends. Have the helper turn the wheel back and forth - not too far, just to the point where they feel the full resistance. Any slop in the tie rod ends will be easily felt. Same thing works for any ball and socket setup, but the ball joints and the trackbar are a little hard to get hold of. |
Re: ball joint pricing
On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 11:37:50 -0600, DougW wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote: >> You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye >> and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out >> either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on >> that tire. >> >> Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on >> the steering column just by the firewall. >> >> You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while >> you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop, >> or up and down slop. >> >> Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a >> tape measure as mentioned earlier. > > I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not > enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint > is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force > on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn. > > Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed > out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and > free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears" > (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels > under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear > the pop/sucking noise. > > End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so > that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such > a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :) > > Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool. You can pretty much the same result for free. Get a helper to sit behind the wheel. Slide under the front and wrap your hand around the tie rod ends. Have the helper turn the wheel back and forth - not too far, just to the point where they feel the full resistance. Any slop in the tie rod ends will be easily felt. Same thing works for any ball and socket setup, but the ball joints and the trackbar are a little hard to get hold of. |
Re: ball joint pricing
My XJ tracks straight and the wheels don't look tilted. The only thing
it does weird is once in a while there is a sort of "chunk" that sounds like it's coming from the front, most often when backing up. There is no funny tire wear either. Jeff DeWitt DougW wrote: > Mike Romain wrote: > >>You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye >>and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out >>either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on >>that tire. >> >>Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on >>the steering column just by the firewall. >> >>You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while >>you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop, >>or up and down slop. >> >>Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a >>tape measure as mentioned earlier. > > > I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not > enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint > is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force > on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn. > > Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed > out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and > free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears" > (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels > under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear > the pop/sucking noise. > > End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so > that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such > a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :) > > Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool. > |
Re: ball joint pricing
My XJ tracks straight and the wheels don't look tilted. The only thing
it does weird is once in a while there is a sort of "chunk" that sounds like it's coming from the front, most often when backing up. There is no funny tire wear either. Jeff DeWitt DougW wrote: > Mike Romain wrote: > >>You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye >>and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out >>either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on >>that tire. >> >>Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on >>the steering column just by the firewall. >> >>You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while >>you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop, >>or up and down slop. >> >>Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a >>tape measure as mentioned earlier. > > > I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not > enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint > is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force > on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn. > > Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed > out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and > free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears" > (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels > under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear > the pop/sucking noise. > > End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so > that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such > a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :) > > Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool. > |
Re: ball joint pricing
My XJ tracks straight and the wheels don't look tilted. The only thing
it does weird is once in a while there is a sort of "chunk" that sounds like it's coming from the front, most often when backing up. There is no funny tire wear either. Jeff DeWitt DougW wrote: > Mike Romain wrote: > >>You can tell the shape of the ball joints 'usually' by using your eye >>and looking from the front or a level. If the tires are tilted out >>either at the bottom or top, you have one or more bad ball joints on >>that tire. >> >>Wandering can be from a worn tie rod end or even a sloppy u-joint on >>the steering column just by the firewall. >> >>You can lay under while someone pins the steering side to side while >>you watch all the moving joints for slop. Either side to side slop, >>or up and down slop. >> >>Not enough to in can also make it wander. You can check that with a >>tape measure as mentioned earlier. > > > I'll also add that simply horking on the tire with your arms is not > enough force to make a worn balljoint move. Unless of course the balljoint > is well and truly broken. Not even Hulk Hogan can put as much force > on the balljoints than your vehicle can in a turn. > > Replaced the inner tierod to drag link balljoint because it was pointed > out to me by the folks at Tires Plus (had the ZJ in for a rotation and > free check). The only way to detect the problem was to use "chassis ears" > (electronic version of the mechanics stethoscope) and turn the wheels > under power while they were clamped down. Then you could defiantly hear > the pop/sucking noise. > > End result is my ZJ became a lot more stable on the road. So much so > that I sat dumbfounded on how less than 3/100 of slop could make such > a difference. (Yes, I checked and the alignment didn't change) :) > > Reminds self: need to price that tool out. Very cool. > |
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