It does sound like worn guides or rings, I would attach a vacuum guage and
read the measurement at idle, along with fluctuation range.
This should tell you if its guides or rings.
The Vacuum guage is almost a lost diagnostic tool, but can identify a lot of
problems. http://www.theautoist.com/vacuum_guage.htm
You could also remove the oil cap from a fully warmed-up engine and see if a
cloud of smoke comes out.
If you had bent a valve, you would know it.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

 

I did check the guides manually when I changed the seals by dropping the
valve a bit and moving it back and forth. The worst offender by far was #1.
#2 was no movement at all. #1 looks fine from the spark plug point of view
compared to #2.

Bill


"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:bvrrun$106slk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> It does sound like worn guides or rings, I would attach a vacuum guage and
> read the measurement at idle, along with fluctuation range.
> This should tell you if its guides or rings.
> The Vacuum guage is almost a lost diagnostic tool, but can identify a lot
of
> problems. http://www.theautoist.com/vacuum_guage.htm
> You could also remove the oil cap from a fully warmed-up engine and see if
a
> cloud of smoke comes out.
> If you had bent a valve, you would know it.
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
>
>

 

I did check the guides manually when I changed the seals by dropping the
valve a bit and moving it back and forth. The worst offender by far was #1.
#2 was no movement at all. #1 looks fine from the spark plug point of view
compared to #2.

Bill


"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:bvrrun$106slk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> It does sound like worn guides or rings, I would attach a vacuum guage and
> read the measurement at idle, along with fluctuation range.
> This should tell you if its guides or rings.
> The Vacuum guage is almost a lost diagnostic tool, but can identify a lot
of
> problems. http://www.theautoist.com/vacuum_guage.htm
> You could also remove the oil cap from a fully warmed-up engine and see if
a
> cloud of smoke comes out.
> If you had bent a valve, you would know it.
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
>
>

 

I did check the guides manually when I changed the seals by dropping the
valve a bit and moving it back and forth. The worst offender by far was #1.
#2 was no movement at all. #1 looks fine from the spark plug point of view
compared to #2.

Bill


"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:bvrrun$106slk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> It does sound like worn guides or rings, I would attach a vacuum guage and
> read the measurement at idle, along with fluctuation range.
> This should tell you if its guides or rings.
> The Vacuum guage is almost a lost diagnostic tool, but can identify a lot
of
> problems. http://www.theautoist.com/vacuum_guage.htm
> You could also remove the oil cap from a fully warmed-up engine and see if
a
> cloud of smoke comes out.
> If you had bent a valve, you would know it.
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
>
>

 

Bill,

Take the advice of the others and get the compression tester, vacuum gauge,
and the leakdown tester we discussed previously. These three tools are
invaluable for diagnosing engine condition and tune. The vacuum gauge can
tell you more about the condition and tune of your engine than any other
tool for the money. Buy one that has an undampened needle though. This will
make it easier to see the fluctuations in vacuum, which will aid in carb
tuning, or detecting misfires, sticky piston rings and leaky valves. It
seems that you are trying to learn more about doing your own auto repairs,
and these are tools that every auto mechanic should have. They will pay for
themselves in saved time and by reducing improper diagnosis of problems.

As far as your problem, you can have good compression and still have oil
control ring that are not doing the job. I'm not saying this is what it is,
but it is possible. Did the engine sit for a long period of time before you
bought the Jeep? If so, the sticky ring theory is very possible, but
diagnose it first. Also, check your PCV system to make sure it isn't somehow
allowing oil into the intake system. A faulty PCV valve can do this. If the
engine truly does have equal pressure in each cylinder, then I would put
some miles on the Jeep and see if it clears up. Sometimes sticky rings clear
themselves up after a little running, but the engine needs to be in a good
state of tune, or you'll experience carbon buildup which may not allow this
to happen.

Chris



"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bvrsf3$vf9h6$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I did check the guides manually when I changed the seals by dropping the
> valve a bit and moving it back and forth. The worst offender by far was
#1.
> #2 was no movement at all. #1 looks fine from the spark plug point of
view
> compared to #2.
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> news:bvrrun$106slk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > It does sound like worn guides or rings, I would attach a vacuum guage
and
> > read the measurement at idle, along with fluctuation range.
> > This should tell you if its guides or rings.
> > The Vacuum guage is almost a lost diagnostic tool, but can identify a
lot
> of
> > problems. http://www.theautoist.com/vacuum_guage.htm
> > You could also remove the oil cap from a fully warmed-up engine and see
if
> a
> > cloud of smoke comes out.
> > If you had bent a valve, you would know it.
> >
> > --
> > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> >
> >
>
>

 

Bill,

Take the advice of the others and get the compression tester, vacuum gauge,
and the leakdown tester we discussed previously. These three tools are
invaluable for diagnosing engine condition and tune. The vacuum gauge can
tell you more about the condition and tune of your engine than any other
tool for the money. Buy one that has an undampened needle though. This will
make it easier to see the fluctuations in vacuum, which will aid in carb
tuning, or detecting misfires, sticky piston rings and leaky valves. It
seems that you are trying to learn more about doing your own auto repairs,
and these are tools that every auto mechanic should have. They will pay for
themselves in saved time and by reducing improper diagnosis of problems.

As far as your problem, you can have good compression and still have oil
control ring that are not doing the job. I'm not saying this is what it is,
but it is possible. Did the engine sit for a long period of time before you
bought the Jeep? If so, the sticky ring theory is very possible, but
diagnose it first. Also, check your PCV system to make sure it isn't somehow
allowing oil into the intake system. A faulty PCV valve can do this. If the
engine truly does have equal pressure in each cylinder, then I would put
some miles on the Jeep and see if it clears up. Sometimes sticky rings clear
themselves up after a little running, but the engine needs to be in a good
state of tune, or you'll experience carbon buildup which may not allow this
to happen.

Chris



"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bvrsf3$vf9h6$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I did check the guides manually when I changed the seals by dropping the
> valve a bit and moving it back and forth. The worst offender by far was
#1.
> #2 was no movement at all. #1 looks fine from the spark plug point of
view
> compared to #2.
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> news:bvrrun$106slk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > It does sound like worn guides or rings, I would attach a vacuum guage
and
> > read the measurement at idle, along with fluctuation range.
> > This should tell you if its guides or rings.
> > The Vacuum guage is almost a lost diagnostic tool, but can identify a
lot
> of
> > problems. http://www.theautoist.com/vacuum_guage.htm
> > You could also remove the oil cap from a fully warmed-up engine and see
if
> a
> > cloud of smoke comes out.
> > If you had bent a valve, you would know it.
> >
> > --
> > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> >
> >
>
>

 

Bill,

Take the advice of the others and get the compression tester, vacuum gauge,
and the leakdown tester we discussed previously. These three tools are
invaluable for diagnosing engine condition and tune. The vacuum gauge can
tell you more about the condition and tune of your engine than any other
tool for the money. Buy one that has an undampened needle though. This will
make it easier to see the fluctuations in vacuum, which will aid in carb
tuning, or detecting misfires, sticky piston rings and leaky valves. It
seems that you are trying to learn more about doing your own auto repairs,
and these are tools that every auto mechanic should have. They will pay for
themselves in saved time and by reducing improper diagnosis of problems.

As far as your problem, you can have good compression and still have oil
control ring that are not doing the job. I'm not saying this is what it is,
but it is possible. Did the engine sit for a long period of time before you
bought the Jeep? If so, the sticky ring theory is very possible, but
diagnose it first. Also, check your PCV system to make sure it isn't somehow
allowing oil into the intake system. A faulty PCV valve can do this. If the
engine truly does have equal pressure in each cylinder, then I would put
some miles on the Jeep and see if it clears up. Sometimes sticky rings clear
themselves up after a little running, but the engine needs to be in a good
state of tune, or you'll experience carbon buildup which may not allow this
to happen.

Chris



"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bvrsf3$vf9h6$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I did check the guides manually when I changed the seals by dropping the
> valve a bit and moving it back and forth. The worst offender by far was
#1.
> #2 was no movement at all. #1 looks fine from the spark plug point of
view
> compared to #2.
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> news:bvrrun$106slk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > It does sound like worn guides or rings, I would attach a vacuum guage
and
> > read the measurement at idle, along with fluctuation range.
> > This should tell you if its guides or rings.
> > The Vacuum guage is almost a lost diagnostic tool, but can identify a
lot
> of
> > problems. http://www.theautoist.com/vacuum_guage.htm
> > You could also remove the oil cap from a fully warmed-up engine and see
if
> a
> > cloud of smoke comes out.
> > If you had bent a valve, you would know it.
> >
> > --
> > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> >
> >
>
>

 

Hi Chris,

I have a compression tester and I ordered the Leak Down tester today. I
will look into the vacuum tester too.

I'm not sure of the engine's history before purchase. The guy before me
blew something up when he drove it and it ran out of water, thus over
heating. Then he put water on the block to try to cool it off faster. This
resulted in engine damage so he limped back to Santa Monica and had his
garage replace the engine with a used one (don't know why he did that
because he spent well over 2k. Should have put a remanufactured engine in
it for that $$$).

I checked the PCV and the intake and didn't see or feel any oil in those
areas.

I have the MPI Kit on it with the timing correct so as far as I know it's in
tune.

What is a sticky oil ring mean? Does that mean the ring gets gunk around it
and doesn't move correctly?

Thanks,

Bill


"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:X%eUb.26795$sd.441@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Bill,
>
> Take the advice of the others and get the compression tester, vacuum
gauge,
> and the leakdown tester we discussed previously. These three tools are
> invaluable for diagnosing engine condition and tune. The vacuum gauge can
> tell you more about the condition and tune of your engine than any other
> tool for the money. Buy one that has an undampened needle though. This
will
> make it easier to see the fluctuations in vacuum, which will aid in carb
> tuning, or detecting misfires, sticky piston rings and leaky valves. It
> seems that you are trying to learn more about doing your own auto repairs,
> and these are tools that every auto mechanic should have. They will pay
for
> themselves in saved time and by reducing improper diagnosis of problems.
>
> As far as your problem, you can have good compression and still have oil
> control ring that are not doing the job. I'm not saying this is what it
is,
> but it is possible. Did the engine sit for a long period of time before
you
> bought the Jeep? If so, the sticky ring theory is very possible, but
> diagnose it first. Also, check your PCV system to make sure it isn't
somehow
> allowing oil into the intake system. A faulty PCV valve can do this. If
the
> engine truly does have equal pressure in each cylinder, then I would put
> some miles on the Jeep and see if it clears up. Sometimes sticky rings
clear
> themselves up after a little running, but the engine needs to be in a good
> state of tune, or you'll experience carbon buildup which may not allow
this
> to happen.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bvrsf3$vf9h6$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I did check the guides manually when I changed the seals by dropping the
> > valve a bit and moving it back and forth. The worst offender by far was
> #1.
> > #2 was no movement at all. #1 looks fine from the spark plug point of
> view
> > compared to #2.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> > "Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> > news:bvrrun$106slk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > It does sound like worn guides or rings, I would attach a vacuum guage
> and
> > > read the measurement at idle, along with fluctuation range.
> > > This should tell you if its guides or rings.
> > > The Vacuum guage is almost a lost diagnostic tool, but can identify a
> lot
> > of
> > > problems. http://www.theautoist.com/vacuum_guage.htm
> > > You could also remove the oil cap from a fully warmed-up engine and
see
> if
> > a
> > > cloud of smoke comes out.
> > > If you had bent a valve, you would know it.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

 

Hi Chris,

I have a compression tester and I ordered the Leak Down tester today. I
will look into the vacuum tester too.

I'm not sure of the engine's history before purchase. The guy before me
blew something up when he drove it and it ran out of water, thus over
heating. Then he put water on the block to try to cool it off faster. This
resulted in engine damage so he limped back to Santa Monica and had his
garage replace the engine with a used one (don't know why he did that
because he spent well over 2k. Should have put a remanufactured engine in
it for that $$$).

I checked the PCV and the intake and didn't see or feel any oil in those
areas.

I have the MPI Kit on it with the timing correct so as far as I know it's in
tune.

What is a sticky oil ring mean? Does that mean the ring gets gunk around it
and doesn't move correctly?

Thanks,

Bill


"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:X%eUb.26795$sd.441@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Bill,
>
> Take the advice of the others and get the compression tester, vacuum
gauge,
> and the leakdown tester we discussed previously. These three tools are
> invaluable for diagnosing engine condition and tune. The vacuum gauge can
> tell you more about the condition and tune of your engine than any other
> tool for the money. Buy one that has an undampened needle though. This
will
> make it easier to see the fluctuations in vacuum, which will aid in carb
> tuning, or detecting misfires, sticky piston rings and leaky valves. It
> seems that you are trying to learn more about doing your own auto repairs,
> and these are tools that every auto mechanic should have. They will pay
for
> themselves in saved time and by reducing improper diagnosis of problems.
>
> As far as your problem, you can have good compression and still have oil
> control ring that are not doing the job. I'm not saying this is what it
is,
> but it is possible. Did the engine sit for a long period of time before
you
> bought the Jeep? If so, the sticky ring theory is very possible, but
> diagnose it first. Also, check your PCV system to make sure it isn't
somehow
> allowing oil into the intake system. A faulty PCV valve can do this. If
the
> engine truly does have equal pressure in each cylinder, then I would put
> some miles on the Jeep and see if it clears up. Sometimes sticky rings
clear
> themselves up after a little running, but the engine needs to be in a good
> state of tune, or you'll experience carbon buildup which may not allow
this
> to happen.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bvrsf3$vf9h6$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I did check the guides manually when I changed the seals by dropping the
> > valve a bit and moving it back and forth. The worst offender by far was
> #1.
> > #2 was no movement at all. #1 looks fine from the spark plug point of
> view
> > compared to #2.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> > "Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> > news:bvrrun$106slk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > It does sound like worn guides or rings, I would attach a vacuum guage
> and
> > > read the measurement at idle, along with fluctuation range.
> > > This should tell you if its guides or rings.
> > > The Vacuum guage is almost a lost diagnostic tool, but can identify a
> lot
> > of
> > > problems. http://www.theautoist.com/vacuum_guage.htm
> > > You could also remove the oil cap from a fully warmed-up engine and
see
> if
> > a
> > > cloud of smoke comes out.
> > > If you had bent a valve, you would know it.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

 

Hi Chris,

I have a compression tester and I ordered the Leak Down tester today. I
will look into the vacuum tester too.

I'm not sure of the engine's history before purchase. The guy before me
blew something up when he drove it and it ran out of water, thus over
heating. Then he put water on the block to try to cool it off faster. This
resulted in engine damage so he limped back to Santa Monica and had his
garage replace the engine with a used one (don't know why he did that
because he spent well over 2k. Should have put a remanufactured engine in
it for that $$$).

I checked the PCV and the intake and didn't see or feel any oil in those
areas.

I have the MPI Kit on it with the timing correct so as far as I know it's in
tune.

What is a sticky oil ring mean? Does that mean the ring gets gunk around it
and doesn't move correctly?

Thanks,

Bill


"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:X%eUb.26795$sd.441@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Bill,
>
> Take the advice of the others and get the compression tester, vacuum
gauge,
> and the leakdown tester we discussed previously. These three tools are
> invaluable for diagnosing engine condition and tune. The vacuum gauge can
> tell you more about the condition and tune of your engine than any other
> tool for the money. Buy one that has an undampened needle though. This
will
> make it easier to see the fluctuations in vacuum, which will aid in carb
> tuning, or detecting misfires, sticky piston rings and leaky valves. It
> seems that you are trying to learn more about doing your own auto repairs,
> and these are tools that every auto mechanic should have. They will pay
for
> themselves in saved time and by reducing improper diagnosis of problems.
>
> As far as your problem, you can have good compression and still have oil
> control ring that are not doing the job. I'm not saying this is what it
is,
> but it is possible. Did the engine sit for a long period of time before
you
> bought the Jeep? If so, the sticky ring theory is very possible, but
> diagnose it first. Also, check your PCV system to make sure it isn't
somehow
> allowing oil into the intake system. A faulty PCV valve can do this. If
the
> engine truly does have equal pressure in each cylinder, then I would put
> some miles on the Jeep and see if it clears up. Sometimes sticky rings
clear
> themselves up after a little running, but the engine needs to be in a good
> state of tune, or you'll experience carbon buildup which may not allow
this
> to happen.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bvrsf3$vf9h6$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I did check the guides manually when I changed the seals by dropping the
> > valve a bit and moving it back and forth. The worst offender by far was
> #1.
> > #2 was no movement at all. #1 looks fine from the spark plug point of
> view
> > compared to #2.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> > "Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> > news:bvrrun$106slk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > It does sound like worn guides or rings, I would attach a vacuum guage
> and
> > > read the measurement at idle, along with fluctuation range.
> > > This should tell you if its guides or rings.
> > > The Vacuum guage is almost a lost diagnostic tool, but can identify a
> lot
> > of
> > > problems. http://www.theautoist.com/vacuum_guage.htm
> > > You could also remove the oil cap from a fully warmed-up engine and
see
> if
> > a
> > > cloud of smoke comes out.
> > > If you had bent a valve, you would know it.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>