On 10 fév, 07:28, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Does your rear window defroster work? I 'think' it is on the same fuse
> as the back up lights.
>
> Mike

The rear defroster light turns on when I press defroster therefore I
assume defroster is okay. I checked the fuse box under the hood and
the one on the driver side. All fuses are okay so maybe the wiring
harness is cut at some point. I have 0.4 ohm of resistance (could
probably have more with cleaner conductive parts) between pins A-E on
the neutral safety switch plug when reverse is engaged and no
continuity in all other modes.

With engine on and off, I never read any volts where I guess I should
read 12V (before the switch to pin A) so I am thinking of bypassing
this apparently cut wire by adding one with a 15A fuse hooked directly
to the + of the battery. I based my plan from the wiring diagrams in
the Chilton (it even has a correct color code for my jeep the Haynes
does not have). Applying directly 12V on pin E turns on my backup
light so the after-switch part of the circuit is good. Any comments/
tips on my plan ?

I'll post some follow-ups on that.

Another question: my parking brakes are fine but the button to release
the lever has a very small course, maybe 4mm. I don't think this is
normal. Is there any way I can unstuck this button assuming this its
course is not the regular one ?

Thanks

Lionel

 

I can't see anything wrong with your power supply idea. I think you
should follow the cable back to see if it maybe got melted by the
exhaust or pinched by a mount or something.

I think the button on the brake screws on with a set nut, not sure if it
can easily be adjusted or not.

Mike

Lionel wrote:
> On 10 fév, 07:28, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Does your rear window defroster work? I 'think' it is on the same fuse
>> as the back up lights.
>>
>> Mike
>
> The rear defroster light turns on when I press defroster therefore I
> assume defroster is okay. I checked the fuse box under the hood and
> the one on the driver side. All fuses are okay so maybe the wiring
> harness is cut at some point. I have 0.4 ohm of resistance (could
> probably have more with cleaner conductive parts) between pins A-E on
> the neutral safety switch plug when reverse is engaged and no
> continuity in all other modes.
>
> With engine on and off, I never read any volts where I guess I should
> read 12V (before the switch to pin A) so I am thinking of bypassing
> this apparently cut wire by adding one with a 15A fuse hooked directly
> to the + of the battery. I based my plan from the wiring diagrams in
> the Chilton (it even has a correct color code for my jeep the Haynes
> does not have). Applying directly 12V on pin E turns on my backup
> light so the after-switch part of the circuit is good. Any comments/
> tips on my plan ?
>
> I'll post some follow-ups on that.
>
> Another question: my parking brakes are fine but the button to release
> the lever has a very small course, maybe 4mm. I don't think this is
> normal. Is there any way I can unstuck this button assuming this its
> course is not the regular one ?
>
> Thanks
>
> Lionel
>

 

I can't see anything wrong with your power supply idea. I think you
should follow the cable back to see if it maybe got melted by the
exhaust or pinched by a mount or something.

I think the button on the brake screws on with a set nut, not sure if it
can easily be adjusted or not.

Mike

Lionel wrote:
> On 10 fév, 07:28, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Does your rear window defroster work? I 'think' it is on the same fuse
>> as the back up lights.
>>
>> Mike
>
> The rear defroster light turns on when I press defroster therefore I
> assume defroster is okay. I checked the fuse box under the hood and
> the one on the driver side. All fuses are okay so maybe the wiring
> harness is cut at some point. I have 0.4 ohm of resistance (could
> probably have more with cleaner conductive parts) between pins A-E on
> the neutral safety switch plug when reverse is engaged and no
> continuity in all other modes.
>
> With engine on and off, I never read any volts where I guess I should
> read 12V (before the switch to pin A) so I am thinking of bypassing
> this apparently cut wire by adding one with a 15A fuse hooked directly
> to the + of the battery. I based my plan from the wiring diagrams in
> the Chilton (it even has a correct color code for my jeep the Haynes
> does not have). Applying directly 12V on pin E turns on my backup
> light so the after-switch part of the circuit is good. Any comments/
> tips on my plan ?
>
> I'll post some follow-ups on that.
>
> Another question: my parking brakes are fine but the button to release
> the lever has a very small course, maybe 4mm. I don't think this is
> normal. Is there any way I can unstuck this button assuming this its
> course is not the regular one ?
>
> Thanks
>
> Lionel
>

 

I can't see anything wrong with your power supply idea. I think you
should follow the cable back to see if it maybe got melted by the
exhaust or pinched by a mount or something.

I think the button on the brake screws on with a set nut, not sure if it
can easily be adjusted or not.

Mike

Lionel wrote:
> On 10 fév, 07:28, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Does your rear window defroster work? I 'think' it is on the same fuse
>> as the back up lights.
>>
>> Mike
>
> The rear defroster light turns on when I press defroster therefore I
> assume defroster is okay. I checked the fuse box under the hood and
> the one on the driver side. All fuses are okay so maybe the wiring
> harness is cut at some point. I have 0.4 ohm of resistance (could
> probably have more with cleaner conductive parts) between pins A-E on
> the neutral safety switch plug when reverse is engaged and no
> continuity in all other modes.
>
> With engine on and off, I never read any volts where I guess I should
> read 12V (before the switch to pin A) so I am thinking of bypassing
> this apparently cut wire by adding one with a 15A fuse hooked directly
> to the + of the battery. I based my plan from the wiring diagrams in
> the Chilton (it even has a correct color code for my jeep the Haynes
> does not have). Applying directly 12V on pin E turns on my backup
> light so the after-switch part of the circuit is good. Any comments/
> tips on my plan ?
>
> I'll post some follow-ups on that.
>
> Another question: my parking brakes are fine but the button to release
> the lever has a very small course, maybe 4mm. I don't think this is
> normal. Is there any way I can unstuck this button assuming this its
> course is not the regular one ?
>
> Thanks
>
> Lionel
>

 

I can't see anything wrong with your power supply idea. I think you
should follow the cable back to see if it maybe got melted by the
exhaust or pinched by a mount or something.

I think the button on the brake screws on with a set nut, not sure if it
can easily be adjusted or not.

Mike

Lionel wrote:
> On 10 fév, 07:28, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Does your rear window defroster work? I 'think' it is on the same fuse
>> as the back up lights.
>>
>> Mike
>
> The rear defroster light turns on when I press defroster therefore I
> assume defroster is okay. I checked the fuse box under the hood and
> the one on the driver side. All fuses are okay so maybe the wiring
> harness is cut at some point. I have 0.4 ohm of resistance (could
> probably have more with cleaner conductive parts) between pins A-E on
> the neutral safety switch plug when reverse is engaged and no
> continuity in all other modes.
>
> With engine on and off, I never read any volts where I guess I should
> read 12V (before the switch to pin A) so I am thinking of bypassing
> this apparently cut wire by adding one with a 15A fuse hooked directly
> to the + of the battery. I based my plan from the wiring diagrams in
> the Chilton (it even has a correct color code for my jeep the Haynes
> does not have). Applying directly 12V on pin E turns on my backup
> light so the after-switch part of the circuit is good. Any comments/
> tips on my plan ?
>
> I'll post some follow-ups on that.
>
> Another question: my parking brakes are fine but the button to release
> the lever has a very small course, maybe 4mm. I don't think this is
> normal. Is there any way I can unstuck this button assuming this its
> course is not the regular one ?
>
> Thanks
>
> Lionel
>

 

As promised, here is a follow-up. I've done what I explained before
and the backup-lights are now operational again. A wire was probably
dead before the neutral safety switch. I hooked directly an extra wire
to the battery and the wire has itself a 15A fuse.

Lionel



On 12 fév, 15:27, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> I can't see anything wrong with your power supply idea. I think you
> should follow the cable back to see if it maybe got melted by the
> exhaust or pinched by a mount or something.
>
> I think the button on the brake screws on with a set nut, not sure if it
> can easily be adjusted or not.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Lionel wrote:
> > On 10 fév, 07:28, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> Does your rear window defroster work? I 'think' it is on the same fuse
> >> as the back up lights.
>
> >> Mike
>
> > The rear defroster light turns on when I press defroster therefore I
> > assume defroster is okay. I checked the fuse box under the hood and
> > the one on the driver side. All fuses are okay so maybe the wiring
> > harness is cut at some point. I have 0.4 ohm of resistance (could
> > probably have more with cleaner conductive parts) between pins A-E on
> > the neutral safety switch plug when reverse is engaged and no
> > continuity in all other modes.
>
> > With engine on and off, I never read any volts where I guess I should
> > read 12V (before the switch to pin A) so I am thinking of bypassing
> > this apparently cut wire by adding one with a 15A fuse hooked directly
> > to the + of the battery. I based my plan from the wiring diagrams in
> > the Chilton (it even has a correct color code for my jeep the Haynes
> > does not have). Applying directly 12V on pin E turns on my backup
> > light so the after-switch part of the circuit is good. Any comments/
> > tips on my plan ?
>
> > I'll post some follow-ups on that.
>
> > Another question: my parking brakes are fine but the button to release
> > the lever has a very small course, maybe 4mm. I don't think this is
> > normal. Is there any way I can unstuck this button assuming this its
> > course is not the regular one ?
>
> > Thanks
>
> > Lionel- Masquer le texte des messages précédents -
>
> - Afficher le texte des messages précédents -

 

As promised, here is a follow-up. I've done what I explained before
and the backup-lights are now operational again. A wire was probably
dead before the neutral safety switch. I hooked directly an extra wire
to the battery and the wire has itself a 15A fuse.

Lionel



On 12 fév, 15:27, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> I can't see anything wrong with your power supply idea. I think you
> should follow the cable back to see if it maybe got melted by the
> exhaust or pinched by a mount or something.
>
> I think the button on the brake screws on with a set nut, not sure if it
> can easily be adjusted or not.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Lionel wrote:
> > On 10 fév, 07:28, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> Does your rear window defroster work? I 'think' it is on the same fuse
> >> as the back up lights.
>
> >> Mike
>
> > The rear defroster light turns on when I press defroster therefore I
> > assume defroster is okay. I checked the fuse box under the hood and
> > the one on the driver side. All fuses are okay so maybe the wiring
> > harness is cut at some point. I have 0.4 ohm of resistance (could
> > probably have more with cleaner conductive parts) between pins A-E on
> > the neutral safety switch plug when reverse is engaged and no
> > continuity in all other modes.
>
> > With engine on and off, I never read any volts where I guess I should
> > read 12V (before the switch to pin A) so I am thinking of bypassing
> > this apparently cut wire by adding one with a 15A fuse hooked directly
> > to the + of the battery. I based my plan from the wiring diagrams in
> > the Chilton (it even has a correct color code for my jeep the Haynes
> > does not have). Applying directly 12V on pin E turns on my backup
> > light so the after-switch part of the circuit is good. Any comments/
> > tips on my plan ?
>
> > I'll post some follow-ups on that.
>
> > Another question: my parking brakes are fine but the button to release
> > the lever has a very small course, maybe 4mm. I don't think this is
> > normal. Is there any way I can unstuck this button assuming this its
> > course is not the regular one ?
>
> > Thanks
>
> > Lionel- Masquer le texte des messages précédents -
>
> - Afficher le texte des messages précédents -

 

As promised, here is a follow-up. I've done what I explained before
and the backup-lights are now operational again. A wire was probably
dead before the neutral safety switch. I hooked directly an extra wire
to the battery and the wire has itself a 15A fuse.

Lionel



On 12 fév, 15:27, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> I can't see anything wrong with your power supply idea. I think you
> should follow the cable back to see if it maybe got melted by the
> exhaust or pinched by a mount or something.
>
> I think the button on the brake screws on with a set nut, not sure if it
> can easily be adjusted or not.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Lionel wrote:
> > On 10 fév, 07:28, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> Does your rear window defroster work? I 'think' it is on the same fuse
> >> as the back up lights.
>
> >> Mike
>
> > The rear defroster light turns on when I press defroster therefore I
> > assume defroster is okay. I checked the fuse box under the hood and
> > the one on the driver side. All fuses are okay so maybe the wiring
> > harness is cut at some point. I have 0.4 ohm of resistance (could
> > probably have more with cleaner conductive parts) between pins A-E on
> > the neutral safety switch plug when reverse is engaged and no
> > continuity in all other modes.
>
> > With engine on and off, I never read any volts where I guess I should
> > read 12V (before the switch to pin A) so I am thinking of bypassing
> > this apparently cut wire by adding one with a 15A fuse hooked directly
> > to the + of the battery. I based my plan from the wiring diagrams in
> > the Chilton (it even has a correct color code for my jeep the Haynes
> > does not have). Applying directly 12V on pin E turns on my backup
> > light so the after-switch part of the circuit is good. Any comments/
> > tips on my plan ?
>
> > I'll post some follow-ups on that.
>
> > Another question: my parking brakes are fine but the button to release
> > the lever has a very small course, maybe 4mm. I don't think this is
> > normal. Is there any way I can unstuck this button assuming this its
> > course is not the regular one ?
>
> > Thanks
>
> > Lionel- Masquer le texte des messages précédents -
>
> - Afficher le texte des messages précédents -

 

Thanks for the follow up!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


Lionel wrote:
> As promised, here is a follow-up. I've done what I explained before
> and the backup-lights are now operational again. A wire was probably
> dead before the neutral safety switch. I hooked directly an extra wire
> to the battery and the wire has itself a 15A fuse.
>
> Lionel
>
>
>
> On 12 fév, 15:27, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> I can't see anything wrong with your power supply idea. I think you
>> should follow the cable back to see if it maybe got melted by the
>> exhaust or pinched by a mount or something.
>>
>> I think the button on the brake screws on with a set nut, not sure if it
>> can easily be adjusted or not.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>> Lionel wrote:
>>> On 10 fév, 07:28, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> Does your rear window defroster work? I 'think' it is on the same fuse
>>>> as the back up lights.
>>>> Mike
>>> The rear defroster light turns on when I press defroster therefore I
>>> assume defroster is okay. I checked the fuse box under the hood and
>>> the one on the driver side. All fuses are okay so maybe the wiring
>>> harness is cut at some point. I have 0.4 ohm of resistance (could
>>> probably have more with cleaner conductive parts) between pins A-E on
>>> the neutral safety switch plug when reverse is engaged and no
>>> continuity in all other modes.
>>> With engine on and off, I never read any volts where I guess I should
>>> read 12V (before the switch to pin A) so I am thinking of bypassing
>>> this apparently cut wire by adding one with a 15A fuse hooked directly
>>> to the + of the battery. I based my plan from the wiring diagrams in
>>> the Chilton (it even has a correct color code for my jeep the Haynes
>>> does not have). Applying directly 12V on pin E turns on my backup
>>> light so the after-switch part of the circuit is good. Any comments/
>>> tips on my plan ?
>>> I'll post some follow-ups on that.
>>> Another question: my parking brakes are fine but the button to release
>>> the lever has a very small course, maybe 4mm. I don't think this is
>>> normal. Is there any way I can unstuck this button assuming this its
>>> course is not the regular one ?
>>> Thanks
>>> Lionel- Masquer le texte des messages précédents -
>> - Afficher le texte des messages précédents -
>
>

 

Thanks for the follow up!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


Lionel wrote:
> As promised, here is a follow-up. I've done what I explained before
> and the backup-lights are now operational again. A wire was probably
> dead before the neutral safety switch. I hooked directly an extra wire
> to the battery and the wire has itself a 15A fuse.
>
> Lionel
>
>
>
> On 12 fév, 15:27, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> I can't see anything wrong with your power supply idea. I think you
>> should follow the cable back to see if it maybe got melted by the
>> exhaust or pinched by a mount or something.
>>
>> I think the button on the brake screws on with a set nut, not sure if it
>> can easily be adjusted or not.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>> Lionel wrote:
>>> On 10 fév, 07:28, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> Does your rear window defroster work? I 'think' it is on the same fuse
>>>> as the back up lights.
>>>> Mike
>>> The rear defroster light turns on when I press defroster therefore I
>>> assume defroster is okay. I checked the fuse box under the hood and
>>> the one on the driver side. All fuses are okay so maybe the wiring
>>> harness is cut at some point. I have 0.4 ohm of resistance (could
>>> probably have more with cleaner conductive parts) between pins A-E on
>>> the neutral safety switch plug when reverse is engaged and no
>>> continuity in all other modes.
>>> With engine on and off, I never read any volts where I guess I should
>>> read 12V (before the switch to pin A) so I am thinking of bypassing
>>> this apparently cut wire by adding one with a 15A fuse hooked directly
>>> to the + of the battery. I based my plan from the wiring diagrams in
>>> the Chilton (it even has a correct color code for my jeep the Haynes
>>> does not have). Applying directly 12V on pin E turns on my backup
>>> light so the after-switch part of the circuit is good. Any comments/
>>> tips on my plan ?
>>> I'll post some follow-ups on that.
>>> Another question: my parking brakes are fine but the button to release
>>> the lever has a very small course, maybe 4mm. I don't think this is
>>> normal. Is there any way I can unstuck this button assuming this its
>>> course is not the regular one ?
>>> Thanks
>>> Lionel- Masquer le texte des messages précédents -
>> - Afficher le texte des messages précédents -
>
>