Then I would just undo the one screw and pull the fast idle cam off to
see if it is pitted or corroded under there and polish it up anyway. The
linkage arm coming down should be pointing out at the bottom bend where
the clip goes on.
I believe it is best left dry with no lube at all. Like carb cleaner
sprayed.

Mike

Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
>
> I'll play with it this weekend. I would have rebuilt the carb, but I liked
> the idea of having no emissions crap there, I know it can just be unplugged
> but I got it cheap.
>
> besides the idle...there is no evidence of anything else being fooked. It's
> running nice, not rich ot lean...I dont know what else to check.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:423B30B8.D5E6E22B@sympatico.ca...
> > You have a dirt issue or the connecting rod isn't installed correctly.
> > Not a very encouraging thing to see on a 'new' carb. That counter
> > weighted idle stepper should flop open on it's own easily. If the
> > connecting rod is on backward it might bind or it just needs a good
> > clean on the shaft. The shafts do get corroded/pitted and can need to
> > be polished up with emery paper. That should have been done when the
> > carb was made 'new', but having one dead out of the box seems to be par
> > for today's poor excuses for rebuild techs.
> >
> > I personally have seen 2 'new' ones dead out of the box and have heard
> > of lots others.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > >
> > > The system has no computer, it's gone when we changed the carb and
> installed
> > > the header. The carb is from a 77 CJ, NO emissions stuff at all.
> > >
> > > I am using the electric choke from my old carb. The choke is set to 1800
> > > rpm, then the second stage is set to 1200RPM. Thats where it sticks. It
> will
> > > kick off from 1800RPM to 1000-1200 no problem. then I have to pop the
> hood
> > > and manually take to choke off the last "tick" so it idles at 700RPM
> (which
> > > is does fine).
> > >
> > > This is a brand new refurbished carb, using the OLD electric choke. I
> > > sprayed the linkage when we installed it and thought it would "work
> itself
> > > out" but it's been almost a week.
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:423B0DBE.FD6DBE62@sympatico.ca...
> > > > That is crappie mileage. First I would check the odometer to see how
> > > > far off it is with the 31's on there. Even if they are off 10% though
> > > > you still would be getting crappie mileage.
> > > >
> > > > The only 2 reasons the fast idle is staying on is dirt or the choke is
> > > > bad. Some carb cleaner spray on the linkage parts can do it wonders.
> > > >
> > > > Then figure idle at 500-700 vs 1200. 1200 isn't a good thing.....
> > > >
> > > > Will the idle come down to 500 or 600? It should come really close to
> > > > that, mine is running around 600 right now. If it won't maybe the mix
> > > > is off or the idle tubes are plugged which is an easy fix.
> > > >
> > > > Does the choke have a good electrical connection?
> > > >
> > > > Is the computer having a brain fart clamping it into 'limp home' mode
> or
> > > > did you wire the ignition module direct to the distributor to bypass
> it
> > > > or put some other system in?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
> > > > >
> > > > > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ, 31"
> tires
> > > I
> > > > > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running
> sweet.
> > > BUT I
> > > > > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue that
> is
> > > not
> > > > > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking on
> the
> > > last
> > > > > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a lot of
> > > metal
> > > > > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead of
> 800
> > > would
> > > > > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
> > > > >
> > > > > any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
>
I just checked last week; 16.5 city driving. 2004 tj w/35's and 3.73
gears.

 

Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
>
I just checked last week; 16.5 city driving. 2004 tj w/35's and 3.73
gears.

 

Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
>
I just checked last week; 16.5 city driving. 2004 tj w/35's and 3.73
gears.

 

Ok, will do.
thanks
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:423B4017.FF8E5D4@sympatico.ca...
> Then I would just undo the one screw and pull the fast idle cam off to
> see if it is pitted or corroded under there and polish it up anyway. The
> linkage arm coming down should be pointing out at the bottom bend where
> the clip goes on.
> I believe it is best left dry with no lube at all. Like carb cleaner
> sprayed.
>
> Mike
>
> Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> >
> > I'll play with it this weekend. I would have rebuilt the carb, but I
liked
> > the idea of having no emissions crap there, I know it can just be
unplugged
> > but I got it cheap.
> >
> > besides the idle...there is no evidence of anything else being fooked.
It's
> > running nice, not rich ot lean...I dont know what else to check.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:423B30B8.D5E6E22B@sympatico.ca...
> > > You have a dirt issue or the connecting rod isn't installed correctly.
> > > Not a very encouraging thing to see on a 'new' carb. That counter
> > > weighted idle stepper should flop open on it's own easily. If the
> > > connecting rod is on backward it might bind or it just needs a good
> > > clean on the shaft. The shafts do get corroded/pitted and can need to
> > > be polished up with emery paper. That should have been done when the
> > > carb was made 'new', but having one dead out of the box seems to be
par
> > > for today's poor excuses for rebuild techs.
> > >
> > > I personally have seen 2 'new' ones dead out of the box and have heard
> > > of lots others.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > >
> > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The system has no computer, it's gone when we changed the carb and
> > installed
> > > > the header. The carb is from a 77 CJ, NO emissions stuff at all.
> > > >
> > > > I am using the electric choke from my old carb. The choke is set to
1800
> > > > rpm, then the second stage is set to 1200RPM. Thats where it sticks.
It
> > will
> > > > kick off from 1800RPM to 1000-1200 no problem. then I have to pop
the
> > hood
> > > > and manually take to choke off the last "tick" so it idles at 700RPM
> > (which
> > > > is does fine).
> > > >
> > > > This is a brand new refurbished carb, using the OLD electric choke.
I
> > > > sprayed the linkage when we installed it and thought it would "work
> > itself
> > > > out" but it's been almost a week.
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:423B0DBE.FD6DBE62@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > That is crappie mileage. First I would check the odometer to see
how
> > > > > far off it is with the 31's on there. Even if they are off 10%
though
> > > > > you still would be getting crappie mileage.
> > > > >
> > > > > The only 2 reasons the fast idle is staying on is dirt or the
choke is
> > > > > bad. Some carb cleaner spray on the linkage parts can do it
wonders.
> > > > >
> > > > > Then figure idle at 500-700 vs 1200. 1200 isn't a good thing.....
> > > > >
> > > > > Will the idle come down to 500 or 600? It should come really
close to
> > > > > that, mine is running around 600 right now. If it won't maybe the
mix
> > > > > is off or the idle tubes are plugged which is an easy fix.
> > > > >
> > > > > Does the choke have a good electrical connection?
> > > > >
> > > > > Is the computer having a brain fart clamping it into 'limp home'
mode
> > or
> > > > > did you wire the ignition module direct to the distributor to
bypass
> > it
> > > > > or put some other system in?
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ,
31"
> > tires
> > > > I
> > > > > > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running
> > sweet.
> > > > BUT I
> > > > > > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue
that
> > is
> > > > not
> > > > > > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking
on
> > the
> > > > last
> > > > > > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a
lot of
> > > > metal
> > > > > > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead
of
> > 800
> > > > would
> > > > > > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Ok, will do.
thanks
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:423B4017.FF8E5D4@sympatico.ca...
> Then I would just undo the one screw and pull the fast idle cam off to
> see if it is pitted or corroded under there and polish it up anyway. The
> linkage arm coming down should be pointing out at the bottom bend where
> the clip goes on.
> I believe it is best left dry with no lube at all. Like carb cleaner
> sprayed.
>
> Mike
>
> Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> >
> > I'll play with it this weekend. I would have rebuilt the carb, but I
liked
> > the idea of having no emissions crap there, I know it can just be
unplugged
> > but I got it cheap.
> >
> > besides the idle...there is no evidence of anything else being fooked.
It's
> > running nice, not rich ot lean...I dont know what else to check.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:423B30B8.D5E6E22B@sympatico.ca...
> > > You have a dirt issue or the connecting rod isn't installed correctly.
> > > Not a very encouraging thing to see on a 'new' carb. That counter
> > > weighted idle stepper should flop open on it's own easily. If the
> > > connecting rod is on backward it might bind or it just needs a good
> > > clean on the shaft. The shafts do get corroded/pitted and can need to
> > > be polished up with emery paper. That should have been done when the
> > > carb was made 'new', but having one dead out of the box seems to be
par
> > > for today's poor excuses for rebuild techs.
> > >
> > > I personally have seen 2 'new' ones dead out of the box and have heard
> > > of lots others.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > >
> > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The system has no computer, it's gone when we changed the carb and
> > installed
> > > > the header. The carb is from a 77 CJ, NO emissions stuff at all.
> > > >
> > > > I am using the electric choke from my old carb. The choke is set to
1800
> > > > rpm, then the second stage is set to 1200RPM. Thats where it sticks.
It
> > will
> > > > kick off from 1800RPM to 1000-1200 no problem. then I have to pop
the
> > hood
> > > > and manually take to choke off the last "tick" so it idles at 700RPM
> > (which
> > > > is does fine).
> > > >
> > > > This is a brand new refurbished carb, using the OLD electric choke.
I
> > > > sprayed the linkage when we installed it and thought it would "work
> > itself
> > > > out" but it's been almost a week.
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:423B0DBE.FD6DBE62@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > That is crappie mileage. First I would check the odometer to see
how
> > > > > far off it is with the 31's on there. Even if they are off 10%
though
> > > > > you still would be getting crappie mileage.
> > > > >
> > > > > The only 2 reasons the fast idle is staying on is dirt or the
choke is
> > > > > bad. Some carb cleaner spray on the linkage parts can do it
wonders.
> > > > >
> > > > > Then figure idle at 500-700 vs 1200. 1200 isn't a good thing.....
> > > > >
> > > > > Will the idle come down to 500 or 600? It should come really
close to
> > > > > that, mine is running around 600 right now. If it won't maybe the
mix
> > > > > is off or the idle tubes are plugged which is an easy fix.
> > > > >
> > > > > Does the choke have a good electrical connection?
> > > > >
> > > > > Is the computer having a brain fart clamping it into 'limp home'
mode
> > or
> > > > > did you wire the ignition module direct to the distributor to
bypass
> > it
> > > > > or put some other system in?
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ,
31"
> > tires
> > > > I
> > > > > > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running
> > sweet.
> > > > BUT I
> > > > > > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue
that
> > is
> > > > not
> > > > > > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking
on
> > the
> > > > last
> > > > > > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a
lot of
> > > > metal
> > > > > > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead
of
> > 800
> > > > would
> > > > > > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Ok, will do.
thanks
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:423B4017.FF8E5D4@sympatico.ca...
> Then I would just undo the one screw and pull the fast idle cam off to
> see if it is pitted or corroded under there and polish it up anyway. The
> linkage arm coming down should be pointing out at the bottom bend where
> the clip goes on.
> I believe it is best left dry with no lube at all. Like carb cleaner
> sprayed.
>
> Mike
>
> Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> >
> > I'll play with it this weekend. I would have rebuilt the carb, but I
liked
> > the idea of having no emissions crap there, I know it can just be
unplugged
> > but I got it cheap.
> >
> > besides the idle...there is no evidence of anything else being fooked.
It's
> > running nice, not rich ot lean...I dont know what else to check.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:423B30B8.D5E6E22B@sympatico.ca...
> > > You have a dirt issue or the connecting rod isn't installed correctly.
> > > Not a very encouraging thing to see on a 'new' carb. That counter
> > > weighted idle stepper should flop open on it's own easily. If the
> > > connecting rod is on backward it might bind or it just needs a good
> > > clean on the shaft. The shafts do get corroded/pitted and can need to
> > > be polished up with emery paper. That should have been done when the
> > > carb was made 'new', but having one dead out of the box seems to be
par
> > > for today's poor excuses for rebuild techs.
> > >
> > > I personally have seen 2 'new' ones dead out of the box and have heard
> > > of lots others.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > >
> > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The system has no computer, it's gone when we changed the carb and
> > installed
> > > > the header. The carb is from a 77 CJ, NO emissions stuff at all.
> > > >
> > > > I am using the electric choke from my old carb. The choke is set to
1800
> > > > rpm, then the second stage is set to 1200RPM. Thats where it sticks.
It
> > will
> > > > kick off from 1800RPM to 1000-1200 no problem. then I have to pop
the
> > hood
> > > > and manually take to choke off the last "tick" so it idles at 700RPM
> > (which
> > > > is does fine).
> > > >
> > > > This is a brand new refurbished carb, using the OLD electric choke.
I
> > > > sprayed the linkage when we installed it and thought it would "work
> > itself
> > > > out" but it's been almost a week.
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:423B0DBE.FD6DBE62@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > That is crappie mileage. First I would check the odometer to see
how
> > > > > far off it is with the 31's on there. Even if they are off 10%
though
> > > > > you still would be getting crappie mileage.
> > > > >
> > > > > The only 2 reasons the fast idle is staying on is dirt or the
choke is
> > > > > bad. Some carb cleaner spray on the linkage parts can do it
wonders.
> > > > >
> > > > > Then figure idle at 500-700 vs 1200. 1200 isn't a good thing.....
> > > > >
> > > > > Will the idle come down to 500 or 600? It should come really
close to
> > > > > that, mine is running around 600 right now. If it won't maybe the
mix
> > > > > is off or the idle tubes are plugged which is an easy fix.
> > > > >
> > > > > Does the choke have a good electrical connection?
> > > > >
> > > > > Is the computer having a brain fart clamping it into 'limp home'
mode
> > or
> > > > > did you wire the ignition module direct to the distributor to
bypass
> > it
> > > > > or put some other system in?
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ,
31"
> > tires
> > > > I
> > > > > > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running
> > sweet.
> > > > BUT I
> > > > > > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue
that
> > is
> > > > not
> > > > > > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking
on
> > the
> > > > last
> > > > > > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a
lot of
> > > > metal
> > > > > > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead
of
> > 800
> > > > would
> > > > > > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > any suggestions are appreciated.

 

If the choke is staying on, then besides a high idle, it's gonna be rich. The
choke pull off will be enough to get it off the high step of the fast idle cam,
but no more.

Possible choke heater problem. Take your test light and clamp it to the battery
negative post, then see if it'll light up when you probe the choke heater wire
(engine running for this test). If it doesn't light, check for power into the
oil pressure switch (two wires) near the sending unit. If you have power there,
you need a switch. If you don't you need to find out why.

If you're getting power to the choke heater, then the heater needs testing.
Engine off, clamp your test light to the battery positive. Unplug the choke
heater wire and probe the terminal on the choke cap. It should light. If not,
probe the metal part of the choke cap. If that lights it, you need a new choke
heater (cap). If not, check to make sure the choke retaining ring is clamped
against the metal part of the choke cap (this is where it gets it's ground). If
that's okay, probe the carb body it's self. If that doesn't light it, your
carb's not grounded. I've never seen this happen, but I don't like leaving
things to chance, so I'd check it anyway.


In message <ROH_d.53049$KI2.26855@clgrps12>, "Pi-eyed Piper" wrote:

>Ok, will do.
>thanks
>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>news:423B4017.FF8E5D4@sympatico.ca...
>> Then I would just undo the one screw and pull the fast idle cam off to
>> see if it is pitted or corroded under there and polish it up anyway. The
>> linkage arm coming down should be pointing out at the bottom bend where
>> the clip goes on.
>> I believe it is best left dry with no lube at all. Like carb cleaner
>> sprayed.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
>> >
>> > I'll play with it this weekend. I would have rebuilt the carb, but I
>liked
>> > the idea of having no emissions crap there, I know it can just be
>unplugged
>> > but I got it cheap.
>> >
>> > besides the idle...there is no evidence of anything else being fooked.
>It's
>> > running nice, not rich ot lean...I dont know what else to check.
>> >
>> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> > news:423B30B8.D5E6E22B@sympatico.ca...
>> > > You have a dirt issue or the connecting rod isn't installed correctly.
>> > > Not a very encouraging thing to see on a 'new' carb. That counter
>> > > weighted idle stepper should flop open on it's own easily. If the
>> > > connecting rod is on backward it might bind or it just needs a good
>> > > clean on the shaft. The shafts do get corroded/pitted and can need to
>> > > be polished up with emery paper. That should have been done when the
>> > > carb was made 'new', but having one dead out of the box seems to be
>par
>> > > for today's poor excuses for rebuild techs.
>> > >
>> > > I personally have seen 2 'new' ones dead out of the box and have heard
>> > > of lots others.
>> > >
>> > > Mike
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > The system has no computer, it's gone when we changed the carb and
>> > installed
>> > > > the header. The carb is from a 77 CJ, NO emissions stuff at all.
>> > > >
>> > > > I am using the electric choke from my old carb. The choke is set to
>1800
>> > > > rpm, then the second stage is set to 1200RPM. Thats where it sticks.
>It
>> > will
>> > > > kick off from 1800RPM to 1000-1200 no problem. then I have to pop
>the
>> > hood
>> > > > and manually take to choke off the last "tick" so it idles at 700RPM
>> > (which
>> > > > is does fine).
>> > > >
>> > > > This is a brand new refurbished carb, using the OLD electric choke.
>I
>> > > > sprayed the linkage when we installed it and thought it would "work
>> > itself
>> > > > out" but it's been almost a week.
>> > > >
>> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> > > > news:423B0DBE.FD6DBE62@sympatico.ca...
>> > > > > That is crappie mileage. First I would check the odometer to see
>how
>> > > > > far off it is with the 31's on there. Even if they are off 10%
>though
>> > > > > you still would be getting crappie mileage.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > The only 2 reasons the fast idle is staying on is dirt or the
>choke is
>> > > > > bad. Some carb cleaner spray on the linkage parts can do it
>wonders.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Then figure idle at 500-700 vs 1200. 1200 isn't a good thing.....
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Will the idle come down to 500 or 600? It should come really
>close to
>> > > > > that, mine is running around 600 right now. If it won't maybe the
>mix
>> > > > > is off or the idle tubes are plugged which is an easy fix.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Does the choke have a good electrical connection?
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Is the computer having a brain fart clamping it into 'limp home'
>mode
>> > or
>> > > > > did you wire the ignition module direct to the distributor to
>bypass
>> > it
>> > > > > or put some other system in?
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Mike
>> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ,
>31"
>> > tires
>> > > > I
>> > > > > > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running
>> > sweet.
>> > > > BUT I
>> > > > > > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue
>that
>> > is
>> > > > not
>> > > > > > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking
>on
>> > the
>> > > > last
>> > > > > > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a
>lot of
>> > > > metal
>> > > > > > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead
>of
>> > 800
>> > > > would
>> > > > > > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > any suggestions are appreciated.
>

 

If the choke is staying on, then besides a high idle, it's gonna be rich. The
choke pull off will be enough to get it off the high step of the fast idle cam,
but no more.

Possible choke heater problem. Take your test light and clamp it to the battery
negative post, then see if it'll light up when you probe the choke heater wire
(engine running for this test). If it doesn't light, check for power into the
oil pressure switch (two wires) near the sending unit. If you have power there,
you need a switch. If you don't you need to find out why.

If you're getting power to the choke heater, then the heater needs testing.
Engine off, clamp your test light to the battery positive. Unplug the choke
heater wire and probe the terminal on the choke cap. It should light. If not,
probe the metal part of the choke cap. If that lights it, you need a new choke
heater (cap). If not, check to make sure the choke retaining ring is clamped
against the metal part of the choke cap (this is where it gets it's ground). If
that's okay, probe the carb body it's self. If that doesn't light it, your
carb's not grounded. I've never seen this happen, but I don't like leaving
things to chance, so I'd check it anyway.


In message <ROH_d.53049$KI2.26855@clgrps12>, "Pi-eyed Piper" wrote:

>Ok, will do.
>thanks
>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>news:423B4017.FF8E5D4@sympatico.ca...
>> Then I would just undo the one screw and pull the fast idle cam off to
>> see if it is pitted or corroded under there and polish it up anyway. The
>> linkage arm coming down should be pointing out at the bottom bend where
>> the clip goes on.
>> I believe it is best left dry with no lube at all. Like carb cleaner
>> sprayed.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
>> >
>> > I'll play with it this weekend. I would have rebuilt the carb, but I
>liked
>> > the idea of having no emissions crap there, I know it can just be
>unplugged
>> > but I got it cheap.
>> >
>> > besides the idle...there is no evidence of anything else being fooked.
>It's
>> > running nice, not rich ot lean...I dont know what else to check.
>> >
>> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> > news:423B30B8.D5E6E22B@sympatico.ca...
>> > > You have a dirt issue or the connecting rod isn't installed correctly.
>> > > Not a very encouraging thing to see on a 'new' carb. That counter
>> > > weighted idle stepper should flop open on it's own easily. If the
>> > > connecting rod is on backward it might bind or it just needs a good
>> > > clean on the shaft. The shafts do get corroded/pitted and can need to
>> > > be polished up with emery paper. That should have been done when the
>> > > carb was made 'new', but having one dead out of the box seems to be
>par
>> > > for today's poor excuses for rebuild techs.
>> > >
>> > > I personally have seen 2 'new' ones dead out of the box and have heard
>> > > of lots others.
>> > >
>> > > Mike
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > The system has no computer, it's gone when we changed the carb and
>> > installed
>> > > > the header. The carb is from a 77 CJ, NO emissions stuff at all.
>> > > >
>> > > > I am using the electric choke from my old carb. The choke is set to
>1800
>> > > > rpm, then the second stage is set to 1200RPM. Thats where it sticks.
>It
>> > will
>> > > > kick off from 1800RPM to 1000-1200 no problem. then I have to pop
>the
>> > hood
>> > > > and manually take to choke off the last "tick" so it idles at 700RPM
>> > (which
>> > > > is does fine).
>> > > >
>> > > > This is a brand new refurbished carb, using the OLD electric choke.
>I
>> > > > sprayed the linkage when we installed it and thought it would "work
>> > itself
>> > > > out" but it's been almost a week.
>> > > >
>> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> > > > news:423B0DBE.FD6DBE62@sympatico.ca...
>> > > > > That is crappie mileage. First I would check the odometer to see
>how
>> > > > > far off it is with the 31's on there. Even if they are off 10%
>though
>> > > > > you still would be getting crappie mileage.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > The only 2 reasons the fast idle is staying on is dirt or the
>choke is
>> > > > > bad. Some carb cleaner spray on the linkage parts can do it
>wonders.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Then figure idle at 500-700 vs 1200. 1200 isn't a good thing.....
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Will the idle come down to 500 or 600? It should come really
>close to
>> > > > > that, mine is running around 600 right now. If it won't maybe the
>mix
>> > > > > is off or the idle tubes are plugged which is an easy fix.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Does the choke have a good electrical connection?
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Is the computer having a brain fart clamping it into 'limp home'
>mode
>> > or
>> > > > > did you wire the ignition module direct to the distributor to
>bypass
>> > it
>> > > > > or put some other system in?
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Mike
>> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ,
>31"
>> > tires
>> > > > I
>> > > > > > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running
>> > sweet.
>> > > > BUT I
>> > > > > > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue
>that
>> > is
>> > > > not
>> > > > > > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking
>on
>> > the
>> > > > last
>> > > > > > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a
>lot of
>> > > > metal
>> > > > > > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead
>of
>> > 800
>> > > > would
>> > > > > > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > any suggestions are appreciated.
>

 

If the choke is staying on, then besides a high idle, it's gonna be rich. The
choke pull off will be enough to get it off the high step of the fast idle cam,
but no more.

Possible choke heater problem. Take your test light and clamp it to the battery
negative post, then see if it'll light up when you probe the choke heater wire
(engine running for this test). If it doesn't light, check for power into the
oil pressure switch (two wires) near the sending unit. If you have power there,
you need a switch. If you don't you need to find out why.

If you're getting power to the choke heater, then the heater needs testing.
Engine off, clamp your test light to the battery positive. Unplug the choke
heater wire and probe the terminal on the choke cap. It should light. If not,
probe the metal part of the choke cap. If that lights it, you need a new choke
heater (cap). If not, check to make sure the choke retaining ring is clamped
against the metal part of the choke cap (this is where it gets it's ground). If
that's okay, probe the carb body it's self. If that doesn't light it, your
carb's not grounded. I've never seen this happen, but I don't like leaving
things to chance, so I'd check it anyway.


In message <ROH_d.53049$KI2.26855@clgrps12>, "Pi-eyed Piper" wrote:

>Ok, will do.
>thanks
>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>news:423B4017.FF8E5D4@sympatico.ca...
>> Then I would just undo the one screw and pull the fast idle cam off to
>> see if it is pitted or corroded under there and polish it up anyway. The
>> linkage arm coming down should be pointing out at the bottom bend where
>> the clip goes on.
>> I believe it is best left dry with no lube at all. Like carb cleaner
>> sprayed.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
>> >
>> > I'll play with it this weekend. I would have rebuilt the carb, but I
>liked
>> > the idea of having no emissions crap there, I know it can just be
>unplugged
>> > but I got it cheap.
>> >
>> > besides the idle...there is no evidence of anything else being fooked.
>It's
>> > running nice, not rich ot lean...I dont know what else to check.
>> >
>> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> > news:423B30B8.D5E6E22B@sympatico.ca...
>> > > You have a dirt issue or the connecting rod isn't installed correctly.
>> > > Not a very encouraging thing to see on a 'new' carb. That counter
>> > > weighted idle stepper should flop open on it's own easily. If the
>> > > connecting rod is on backward it might bind or it just needs a good
>> > > clean on the shaft. The shafts do get corroded/pitted and can need to
>> > > be polished up with emery paper. That should have been done when the
>> > > carb was made 'new', but having one dead out of the box seems to be
>par
>> > > for today's poor excuses for rebuild techs.
>> > >
>> > > I personally have seen 2 'new' ones dead out of the box and have heard
>> > > of lots others.
>> > >
>> > > Mike
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > The system has no computer, it's gone when we changed the carb and
>> > installed
>> > > > the header. The carb is from a 77 CJ, NO emissions stuff at all.
>> > > >
>> > > > I am using the electric choke from my old carb. The choke is set to
>1800
>> > > > rpm, then the second stage is set to 1200RPM. Thats where it sticks.
>It
>> > will
>> > > > kick off from 1800RPM to 1000-1200 no problem. then I have to pop
>the
>> > hood
>> > > > and manually take to choke off the last "tick" so it idles at 700RPM
>> > (which
>> > > > is does fine).
>> > > >
>> > > > This is a brand new refurbished carb, using the OLD electric choke.
>I
>> > > > sprayed the linkage when we installed it and thought it would "work
>> > itself
>> > > > out" but it's been almost a week.
>> > > >
>> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> > > > news:423B0DBE.FD6DBE62@sympatico.ca...
>> > > > > That is crappie mileage. First I would check the odometer to see
>how
>> > > > > far off it is with the 31's on there. Even if they are off 10%
>though
>> > > > > you still would be getting crappie mileage.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > The only 2 reasons the fast idle is staying on is dirt or the
>choke is
>> > > > > bad. Some carb cleaner spray on the linkage parts can do it
>wonders.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Then figure idle at 500-700 vs 1200. 1200 isn't a good thing.....
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Will the idle come down to 500 or 600? It should come really
>close to
>> > > > > that, mine is running around 600 right now. If it won't maybe the
>mix
>> > > > > is off or the idle tubes are plugged which is an easy fix.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Does the choke have a good electrical connection?
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Is the computer having a brain fart clamping it into 'limp home'
>mode
>> > or
>> > > > > did you wire the ignition module direct to the distributor to
>bypass
>> > it
>> > > > > or put some other system in?
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Mike
>> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ,
>31"
>> > tires
>> > > > I
>> > > > > > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running
>> > sweet.
>> > > > BUT I
>> > > > > > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue
>that
>> > is
>> > > > not
>> > > > > > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking
>on
>> > the
>> > > > last
>> > > > > > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a
>lot of
>> > > > metal
>> > > > > > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead
>of
>> > 800
>> > > > would
>> > > > > > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > any suggestions are appreciated.
>