20MPG in the city? That's pretty damn good. I was getting 21 on the highway
last summer with stock tires..something is definitely amiss in my setup.

"Rusted" <noEmail@please.com> wrote in message
news:3RF_d.7107$RX.1991@fe34.usenetserver.com...
> Mine is running a little rough right now, but I am still getting close to
> 20mpg. I recently rebuilt the carb, just needs a plugs, wires, cap tune
up
> and I should back to 24ish.
>
>
> "Pi-eyed Piper" <no@way.com> wrote in message
> news:QID_d.45912$ZO2.38793@edtnps84...
> > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
> >
> > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ, 31" tires
I
> > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running sweet.
BUT
> > I
> > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue that is
not
> > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking on the
last
> > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a lot of
metal
> > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead of 800
> > would
> > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
> >
> > any suggestions are appreciated.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

 

20MPG in the city? That's pretty damn good. I was getting 21 on the highway
last summer with stock tires..something is definitely amiss in my setup.

"Rusted" <noEmail@please.com> wrote in message
news:3RF_d.7107$RX.1991@fe34.usenetserver.com...
> Mine is running a little rough right now, but I am still getting close to
> 20mpg. I recently rebuilt the carb, just needs a plugs, wires, cap tune
up
> and I should back to 24ish.
>
>
> "Pi-eyed Piper" <no@way.com> wrote in message
> news:QID_d.45912$ZO2.38793@edtnps84...
> > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
> >
> > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ, 31" tires
I
> > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running sweet.
BUT
> > I
> > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue that is
not
> > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking on the
last
> > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a lot of
metal
> > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead of 800
> > would
> > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
> >
> > any suggestions are appreciated.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

 

I was TRYING to behave, but come on! 10.50MPG, something is fooked.


"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:423B2C62.1FAE2180@***.net...
> Do the term Jackrabbit mean anything to you?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> >
> > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
> >
> > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ, 31" tires
I
> > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running sweet.
BUT I
> > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue that is
not
> > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking on the
last
> > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a lot of
metal
> > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead of 800
would
> > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
> >
> > any suggestions are appreciated.

 

I was TRYING to behave, but come on! 10.50MPG, something is fooked.


"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:423B2C62.1FAE2180@***.net...
> Do the term Jackrabbit mean anything to you?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> >
> > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
> >
> > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ, 31" tires
I
> > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running sweet.
BUT I
> > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue that is
not
> > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking on the
last
> > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a lot of
metal
> > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead of 800
would
> > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
> >
> > any suggestions are appreciated.

 

I was TRYING to behave, but come on! 10.50MPG, something is fooked.


"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:423B2C62.1FAE2180@***.net...
> Do the term Jackrabbit mean anything to you?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> >
> > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
> >
> > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ, 31" tires
I
> > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running sweet.
BUT I
> > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue that is
not
> > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking on the
last
> > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a lot of
metal
> > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead of 800
would
> > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
> >
> > any suggestions are appreciated.

 

I'll play with it this weekend. I would have rebuilt the carb, but I liked
the idea of having no emissions crap there, I know it can just be unplugged
but I got it cheap.

besides the idle...there is no evidence of anything else being fooked. It's
running nice, not rich ot lean...I dont know what else to check.




"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:423B30B8.D5E6E22B@sympatico.ca...
> You have a dirt issue or the connecting rod isn't installed correctly.
> Not a very encouraging thing to see on a 'new' carb. That counter
> weighted idle stepper should flop open on it's own easily. If the
> connecting rod is on backward it might bind or it just needs a good
> clean on the shaft. The shafts do get corroded/pitted and can need to
> be polished up with emery paper. That should have been done when the
> carb was made 'new', but having one dead out of the box seems to be par
> for today's poor excuses for rebuild techs.
>
> I personally have seen 2 'new' ones dead out of the box and have heard
> of lots others.
>
> Mike
>
>
> Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> >
> > The system has no computer, it's gone when we changed the carb and
installed
> > the header. The carb is from a 77 CJ, NO emissions stuff at all.
> >
> > I am using the electric choke from my old carb. The choke is set to 1800
> > rpm, then the second stage is set to 1200RPM. Thats where it sticks. It
will
> > kick off from 1800RPM to 1000-1200 no problem. then I have to pop the
hood
> > and manually take to choke off the last "tick" so it idles at 700RPM
(which
> > is does fine).
> >
> > This is a brand new refurbished carb, using the OLD electric choke. I
> > sprayed the linkage when we installed it and thought it would "work
itself
> > out" but it's been almost a week.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:423B0DBE.FD6DBE62@sympatico.ca...
> > > That is crappie mileage. First I would check the odometer to see how
> > > far off it is with the 31's on there. Even if they are off 10% though
> > > you still would be getting crappie mileage.
> > >
> > > The only 2 reasons the fast idle is staying on is dirt or the choke is
> > > bad. Some carb cleaner spray on the linkage parts can do it wonders.
> > >
> > > Then figure idle at 500-700 vs 1200. 1200 isn't a good thing.....
> > >
> > > Will the idle come down to 500 or 600? It should come really close to
> > > that, mine is running around 600 right now. If it won't maybe the mix
> > > is off or the idle tubes are plugged which is an easy fix.
> > >
> > > Does the choke have a good electrical connection?
> > >
> > > Is the computer having a brain fart clamping it into 'limp home' mode
or
> > > did you wire the ignition module direct to the distributor to bypass
it
> > > or put some other system in?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > > >
> > > > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
> > > >
> > > > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ, 31"
tires
> > I
> > > > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running
sweet.
> > BUT I
> > > > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue that
is
> > not
> > > > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking on
the
> > last
> > > > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a lot of
> > metal
> > > > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead of
800
> > would
> > > > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
> > > >
> > > > any suggestions are appreciated.

 

I'll play with it this weekend. I would have rebuilt the carb, but I liked
the idea of having no emissions crap there, I know it can just be unplugged
but I got it cheap.

besides the idle...there is no evidence of anything else being fooked. It's
running nice, not rich ot lean...I dont know what else to check.




"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:423B30B8.D5E6E22B@sympatico.ca...
> You have a dirt issue or the connecting rod isn't installed correctly.
> Not a very encouraging thing to see on a 'new' carb. That counter
> weighted idle stepper should flop open on it's own easily. If the
> connecting rod is on backward it might bind or it just needs a good
> clean on the shaft. The shafts do get corroded/pitted and can need to
> be polished up with emery paper. That should have been done when the
> carb was made 'new', but having one dead out of the box seems to be par
> for today's poor excuses for rebuild techs.
>
> I personally have seen 2 'new' ones dead out of the box and have heard
> of lots others.
>
> Mike
>
>
> Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> >
> > The system has no computer, it's gone when we changed the carb and
installed
> > the header. The carb is from a 77 CJ, NO emissions stuff at all.
> >
> > I am using the electric choke from my old carb. The choke is set to 1800
> > rpm, then the second stage is set to 1200RPM. Thats where it sticks. It
will
> > kick off from 1800RPM to 1000-1200 no problem. then I have to pop the
hood
> > and manually take to choke off the last "tick" so it idles at 700RPM
(which
> > is does fine).
> >
> > This is a brand new refurbished carb, using the OLD electric choke. I
> > sprayed the linkage when we installed it and thought it would "work
itself
> > out" but it's been almost a week.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:423B0DBE.FD6DBE62@sympatico.ca...
> > > That is crappie mileage. First I would check the odometer to see how
> > > far off it is with the 31's on there. Even if they are off 10% though
> > > you still would be getting crappie mileage.
> > >
> > > The only 2 reasons the fast idle is staying on is dirt or the choke is
> > > bad. Some carb cleaner spray on the linkage parts can do it wonders.
> > >
> > > Then figure idle at 500-700 vs 1200. 1200 isn't a good thing.....
> > >
> > > Will the idle come down to 500 or 600? It should come really close to
> > > that, mine is running around 600 right now. If it won't maybe the mix
> > > is off or the idle tubes are plugged which is an easy fix.
> > >
> > > Does the choke have a good electrical connection?
> > >
> > > Is the computer having a brain fart clamping it into 'limp home' mode
or
> > > did you wire the ignition module direct to the distributor to bypass
it
> > > or put some other system in?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > > >
> > > > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
> > > >
> > > > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ, 31"
tires
> > I
> > > > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running
sweet.
> > BUT I
> > > > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue that
is
> > not
> > > > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking on
the
> > last
> > > > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a lot of
> > metal
> > > > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead of
800
> > would
> > > > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
> > > >
> > > > any suggestions are appreciated.

 

I'll play with it this weekend. I would have rebuilt the carb, but I liked
the idea of having no emissions crap there, I know it can just be unplugged
but I got it cheap.

besides the idle...there is no evidence of anything else being fooked. It's
running nice, not rich ot lean...I dont know what else to check.




"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:423B30B8.D5E6E22B@sympatico.ca...
> You have a dirt issue or the connecting rod isn't installed correctly.
> Not a very encouraging thing to see on a 'new' carb. That counter
> weighted idle stepper should flop open on it's own easily. If the
> connecting rod is on backward it might bind or it just needs a good
> clean on the shaft. The shafts do get corroded/pitted and can need to
> be polished up with emery paper. That should have been done when the
> carb was made 'new', but having one dead out of the box seems to be par
> for today's poor excuses for rebuild techs.
>
> I personally have seen 2 'new' ones dead out of the box and have heard
> of lots others.
>
> Mike
>
>
> Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> >
> > The system has no computer, it's gone when we changed the carb and
installed
> > the header. The carb is from a 77 CJ, NO emissions stuff at all.
> >
> > I am using the electric choke from my old carb. The choke is set to 1800
> > rpm, then the second stage is set to 1200RPM. Thats where it sticks. It
will
> > kick off from 1800RPM to 1000-1200 no problem. then I have to pop the
hood
> > and manually take to choke off the last "tick" so it idles at 700RPM
(which
> > is does fine).
> >
> > This is a brand new refurbished carb, using the OLD electric choke. I
> > sprayed the linkage when we installed it and thought it would "work
itself
> > out" but it's been almost a week.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:423B0DBE.FD6DBE62@sympatico.ca...
> > > That is crappie mileage. First I would check the odometer to see how
> > > far off it is with the 31's on there. Even if they are off 10% though
> > > you still would be getting crappie mileage.
> > >
> > > The only 2 reasons the fast idle is staying on is dirt or the choke is
> > > bad. Some carb cleaner spray on the linkage parts can do it wonders.
> > >
> > > Then figure idle at 500-700 vs 1200. 1200 isn't a good thing.....
> > >
> > > Will the idle come down to 500 or 600? It should come really close to
> > > that, mine is running around 600 right now. If it won't maybe the mix
> > > is off or the idle tubes are plugged which is an easy fix.
> > >
> > > Does the choke have a good electrical connection?
> > >
> > > Is the computer having a brain fart clamping it into 'limp home' mode
or
> > > did you wire the ignition module direct to the distributor to bypass
it
> > > or put some other system in?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > > >
> > > > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
> > > >
> > > > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ, 31"
tires
> > I
> > > > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running
sweet.
> > BUT I
> > > > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue that
is
> > not
> > > > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking on
the
> > last
> > > > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a lot of
> > metal
> > > > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead of
800
> > would
> > > > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
> > > >
> > > > any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Then I would just undo the one screw and pull the fast idle cam off to
see if it is pitted or corroded under there and polish it up anyway. The
linkage arm coming down should be pointing out at the bottom bend where
the clip goes on.
I believe it is best left dry with no lube at all. Like carb cleaner
sprayed.

Mike

Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
>
> I'll play with it this weekend. I would have rebuilt the carb, but I liked
> the idea of having no emissions crap there, I know it can just be unplugged
> but I got it cheap.
>
> besides the idle...there is no evidence of anything else being fooked. It's
> running nice, not rich ot lean...I dont know what else to check.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:423B30B8.D5E6E22B@sympatico.ca...
> > You have a dirt issue or the connecting rod isn't installed correctly.
> > Not a very encouraging thing to see on a 'new' carb. That counter
> > weighted idle stepper should flop open on it's own easily. If the
> > connecting rod is on backward it might bind or it just needs a good
> > clean on the shaft. The shafts do get corroded/pitted and can need to
> > be polished up with emery paper. That should have been done when the
> > carb was made 'new', but having one dead out of the box seems to be par
> > for today's poor excuses for rebuild techs.
> >
> > I personally have seen 2 'new' ones dead out of the box and have heard
> > of lots others.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > >
> > > The system has no computer, it's gone when we changed the carb and
> installed
> > > the header. The carb is from a 77 CJ, NO emissions stuff at all.
> > >
> > > I am using the electric choke from my old carb. The choke is set to 1800
> > > rpm, then the second stage is set to 1200RPM. Thats where it sticks. It
> will
> > > kick off from 1800RPM to 1000-1200 no problem. then I have to pop the
> hood
> > > and manually take to choke off the last "tick" so it idles at 700RPM
> (which
> > > is does fine).
> > >
> > > This is a brand new refurbished carb, using the OLD electric choke. I
> > > sprayed the linkage when we installed it and thought it would "work
> itself
> > > out" but it's been almost a week.
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:423B0DBE.FD6DBE62@sympatico.ca...
> > > > That is crappie mileage. First I would check the odometer to see how
> > > > far off it is with the 31's on there. Even if they are off 10% though
> > > > you still would be getting crappie mileage.
> > > >
> > > > The only 2 reasons the fast idle is staying on is dirt or the choke is
> > > > bad. Some carb cleaner spray on the linkage parts can do it wonders.
> > > >
> > > > Then figure idle at 500-700 vs 1200. 1200 isn't a good thing.....
> > > >
> > > > Will the idle come down to 500 or 600? It should come really close to
> > > > that, mine is running around 600 right now. If it won't maybe the mix
> > > > is off or the idle tubes are plugged which is an easy fix.
> > > >
> > > > Does the choke have a good electrical connection?
> > > >
> > > > Is the computer having a brain fart clamping it into 'limp home' mode
> or
> > > > did you wire the ignition module direct to the distributor to bypass
> it
> > > > or put some other system in?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
> > > > >
> > > > > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ, 31"
> tires
> > > I
> > > > > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running
> sweet.
> > > BUT I
> > > > > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue that
> is
> > > not
> > > > > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking on
> the
> > > last
> > > > > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a lot of
> > > metal
> > > > > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead of
> 800
> > > would
> > > > > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
> > > > >
> > > > > any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Then I would just undo the one screw and pull the fast idle cam off to
see if it is pitted or corroded under there and polish it up anyway. The
linkage arm coming down should be pointing out at the bottom bend where
the clip goes on.
I believe it is best left dry with no lube at all. Like carb cleaner
sprayed.

Mike

Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
>
> I'll play with it this weekend. I would have rebuilt the carb, but I liked
> the idea of having no emissions crap there, I know it can just be unplugged
> but I got it cheap.
>
> besides the idle...there is no evidence of anything else being fooked. It's
> running nice, not rich ot lean...I dont know what else to check.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:423B30B8.D5E6E22B@sympatico.ca...
> > You have a dirt issue or the connecting rod isn't installed correctly.
> > Not a very encouraging thing to see on a 'new' carb. That counter
> > weighted idle stepper should flop open on it's own easily. If the
> > connecting rod is on backward it might bind or it just needs a good
> > clean on the shaft. The shafts do get corroded/pitted and can need to
> > be polished up with emery paper. That should have been done when the
> > carb was made 'new', but having one dead out of the box seems to be par
> > for today's poor excuses for rebuild techs.
> >
> > I personally have seen 2 'new' ones dead out of the box and have heard
> > of lots others.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > >
> > > The system has no computer, it's gone when we changed the carb and
> installed
> > > the header. The carb is from a 77 CJ, NO emissions stuff at all.
> > >
> > > I am using the electric choke from my old carb. The choke is set to 1800
> > > rpm, then the second stage is set to 1200RPM. Thats where it sticks. It
> will
> > > kick off from 1800RPM to 1000-1200 no problem. then I have to pop the
> hood
> > > and manually take to choke off the last "tick" so it idles at 700RPM
> (which
> > > is does fine).
> > >
> > > This is a brand new refurbished carb, using the OLD electric choke. I
> > > sprayed the linkage when we installed it and thought it would "work
> itself
> > > out" but it's been almost a week.
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:423B0DBE.FD6DBE62@sympatico.ca...
> > > > That is crappie mileage. First I would check the odometer to see how
> > > > far off it is with the 31's on there. Even if they are off 10% though
> > > > you still would be getting crappie mileage.
> > > >
> > > > The only 2 reasons the fast idle is staying on is dirt or the choke is
> > > > bad. Some carb cleaner spray on the linkage parts can do it wonders.
> > > >
> > > > Then figure idle at 500-700 vs 1200. 1200 isn't a good thing.....
> > > >
> > > > Will the idle come down to 500 or 600? It should come really close to
> > > > that, mine is running around 600 right now. If it won't maybe the mix
> > > > is off or the idle tubes are plugged which is an easy fix.
> > > >
> > > > Does the choke have a good electrical connection?
> > > >
> > > > Is the computer having a brain fart clamping it into 'limp home' mode
> or
> > > > did you wire the ignition module direct to the distributor to bypass
> it
> > > > or put some other system in?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Pi-eyed Piper wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > has anyone checked their city mileage for a 4.2L?
> > > > >
> > > > > As I listed earlier I changed the carb and header on my 89YJ, 31"
> tires
> > > I
> > > > > dont know the gearing (stock im sure), and the thing is running
> sweet.
> > > BUT I
> > > > > just checked the mileage.....10.50 MPG!!! I have another issue that
> is
> > > not
> > > > > helping, maybe you guys have some ideas. The choke is sticking on
> the
> > > last
> > > > > stage. The linkage is loose and everything seems fine, just a lot of
> > > metal
> > > > > grabbing. so in stop and go traffic idling at 1000-1200 instead of
> 800
> > > would
> > > > > make a fair bit of difference wouldn't it?
> > > > >
> > > > > any suggestions are appreciated.