Carlo

I may end up doing that as a last resort. Back in 1964 I went through
factory training @ Bear for wheel alignment, balancing, brakes & frame
straightening, etc. They had pits. I soon found out it is the opposite
problem of no lift. If you are not working under the vehicle, you have to
walk around it and down into the pit for tools ...............& of course
you have the wrong wrench, so you have to go back & get the correct one (for
me, sometimes several times). There is no substitute IMHO for a good lift. I
did find a pair of floor jacks at Harbor Freight (for $99.00 ea) that will
lift 31.5" - with a piece of a 4x4, that would almost be 3'. I just need to
get some tall jack stands now. I am thinking that it is not exactly 5'4''
(my height) - but it will have to do for a while.

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:qbZmc.454974$2oI1.328702@twister01.bloor.is.n et.cable.rogers.com...
> What about building in a maintenance pit. that way you really odn't have
to
> worry about lifting really high...
>
>
> "Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:MomdnTOKVpBywwHdRVn-jA@comcast.com...
> > I have been thinking about this for awhile, but have not gotten one yet.
> > (would have to do a lot of work to the garage before it would fit) - but
> > have seen a few of the $3000.00 lifts - they are very slow & noisy -
> making
> > it very time consuming for those situations during which you go up &
down,
> > up & down, up & down (I do that a lot). The ideal thing to do, in my
> > opinion, would be to find a used 2 post lift (controlled by air) from an
> old
> > garage that is closing or something. You would have to dig a deep hole
in
> > the floor - but the difference is well worth it. I put my time in a few
> gas
> > stations, and then a couple of Ford garages in my young & foolish days
and
> I
> > have missed the old style lifts since then. I want one ever so
> > bad............
> >
> > --
> > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > O|||||||O
> > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:409C4D18.B9E21CC3@***.net...
> > > Except there are many tools in Craftsman boxes that Snap-On holds
> > > the patent on.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Jerry Newton wrote:
> > > >
> > > > For the love of God, don't buy it from SnapOn, unless you simply
want
> to
> > pay
> > > > four times more for it. Go to www.northerntools.com They deal in
> > Rotary
> > > > lifts, the only brand that I recommend. For about $3000, you can
get
> a
> > darn
> > > > nice one.
> > > >
> > > > Jerry
> >
> >
>
>

Carlo

I may end up doing that as a last resort. Back in 1964 I went through
factory training @ Bear for wheel alignment, balancing, brakes & frame
straightening, etc. They had pits. I soon found out it is the opposite
problem of no lift. If you are not working under the vehicle, you have to
walk around it and down into the pit for tools ...............& of course
you have the wrong wrench, so you have to go back & get the correct one (for
me, sometimes several times). There is no substitute IMHO for a good lift. I
did find a pair of floor jacks at Harbor Freight (for $99.00 ea) that will
lift 31.5" - with a piece of a 4x4, that would almost be 3'. I just need to
get some tall jack stands now. I am thinking that it is not exactly 5'4''
(my height) - but it will have to do for a while.

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:qbZmc.454974$2oI1.328702@twister01.bloor.is.n et.cable.rogers.com...
> What about building in a maintenance pit. that way you really odn't have
to
> worry about lifting really high...
>
>
> "Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:MomdnTOKVpBywwHdRVn-jA@comcast.com...
> > I have been thinking about this for awhile, but have not gotten one yet.
> > (would have to do a lot of work to the garage before it would fit) - but
> > have seen a few of the $3000.00 lifts - they are very slow & noisy -
> making
> > it very time consuming for those situations during which you go up &
down,
> > up & down, up & down (I do that a lot). The ideal thing to do, in my
> > opinion, would be to find a used 2 post lift (controlled by air) from an
> old
> > garage that is closing or something. You would have to dig a deep hole
in
> > the floor - but the difference is well worth it. I put my time in a few
> gas
> > stations, and then a couple of Ford garages in my young & foolish days
and
> I
> > have missed the old style lifts since then. I want one ever so
> > bad............
> >
> > --
> > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > O|||||||O
> > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:409C4D18.B9E21CC3@***.net...
> > > Except there are many tools in Craftsman boxes that Snap-On holds
> > > the patent on.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Jerry Newton wrote:
> > > >
> > > > For the love of God, don't buy it from SnapOn, unless you simply
want
> to
> > pay
> > > > four times more for it. Go to www.northerntools.com They deal in
> > Rotary
> > > > lifts, the only brand that I recommend. For about $3000, you can
get
> a
> > darn
> > > > nice one.
> > > >
> > > > Jerry
> >
> >
>
>

Carlo

I may end up doing that as a last resort. Back in 1964 I went through
factory training @ Bear for wheel alignment, balancing, brakes & frame
straightening, etc. They had pits. I soon found out it is the opposite
problem of no lift. If you are not working under the vehicle, you have to
walk around it and down into the pit for tools ...............& of course
you have the wrong wrench, so you have to go back & get the correct one (for
me, sometimes several times). There is no substitute IMHO for a good lift. I
did find a pair of floor jacks at Harbor Freight (for $99.00 ea) that will
lift 31.5" - with a piece of a 4x4, that would almost be 3'. I just need to
get some tall jack stands now. I am thinking that it is not exactly 5'4''
(my height) - but it will have to do for a while.

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:qbZmc.454974$2oI1.328702@twister01.bloor.is.n et.cable.rogers.com...
> What about building in a maintenance pit. that way you really odn't have
to
> worry about lifting really high...
>
>
> "Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:MomdnTOKVpBywwHdRVn-jA@comcast.com...
> > I have been thinking about this for awhile, but have not gotten one yet.
> > (would have to do a lot of work to the garage before it would fit) - but
> > have seen a few of the $3000.00 lifts - they are very slow & noisy -
> making
> > it very time consuming for those situations during which you go up &
down,
> > up & down, up & down (I do that a lot). The ideal thing to do, in my
> > opinion, would be to find a used 2 post lift (controlled by air) from an
> old
> > garage that is closing or something. You would have to dig a deep hole
in
> > the floor - but the difference is well worth it. I put my time in a few
> gas
> > stations, and then a couple of Ford garages in my young & foolish days
and
> I
> > have missed the old style lifts since then. I want one ever so
> > bad............
> >
> > --
> > Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> > carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> > '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> > O|||||||O
> > '92 Explorer '65 Mustang
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:409C4D18.B9E21CC3@***.net...
> > > Except there are many tools in Craftsman boxes that Snap-On holds
> > > the patent on.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Jerry Newton wrote:
> > > >
> > > > For the love of God, don't buy it from SnapOn, unless you simply
want
> to
> > pay
> > > > four times more for it. Go to www.northerntools.com They deal in
> > Rotary
> > > > lifts, the only brand that I recommend. For about $3000, you can
get
> a
> > darn
> > > > nice one.
> > > >
> > > > Jerry
> >
> >
>
>

Old Crow

On Fri, 7 May 2004 21:16:16 -0700, "Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net>
wrote:

>I have been thinking about this for awhile, but have not gotten one yet.
>(would have to do a lot of work to the garage before it would fit) - but
>have seen a few of the $3000.00 lifts - they are very slow & noisy - making
>it very time consuming for those situations during which you go up & down,
>up & down, up & down (I do that a lot). The ideal thing to do, in my
>opinion, would be to find a used 2 post lift (controlled by air) from an old
>garage that is closing or something. You would have to dig a deep hole in
>the floor - but the difference is well worth it. I put my time in a few gas
>stations, and then a couple of Ford garages in my young & foolish days and I
>have missed the old style lifts since then. I want one ever so
>bad............


Having been in the car repair business for almost 30 years, I've used
lifts of almost every size and configeration. I've had lifts that
would barely lift a VW bug and lifts that would put a 40' motorhome 6'
in the air.
I'm getting ready to build a shop at home also, and IMHO the Rotary
7000lb twin post above ground is the way to go.
First, it's about the cheapest you can get, and way big enough for
homeowner use.
Second, it allows complete access to the underside of the Jeep, unlike
those in-ground single post lifts, so it's no problem to remove the
t/case or tranny.
Third, you can lift anything up to and including an extended cab
pickup. Can't do that with the old style single post without bending
something(driveshaft, frame, etc.)
Fourth, the only special construction you need to install it is that
the slab you put it on has to be 12" thick in the 8' square area where
you will put the lift, and the garage has to be wired for 220.
Besides, I think the EPA has a thing or two to say about the old
style, pnuematic/hydraulic, in-ground lifts(can you say permit?)
--
Old Crow
'82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
'95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51

Old Crow

On Fri, 7 May 2004 21:16:16 -0700, "Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net>
wrote:

>I have been thinking about this for awhile, but have not gotten one yet.
>(would have to do a lot of work to the garage before it would fit) - but
>have seen a few of the $3000.00 lifts - they are very slow & noisy - making
>it very time consuming for those situations during which you go up & down,
>up & down, up & down (I do that a lot). The ideal thing to do, in my
>opinion, would be to find a used 2 post lift (controlled by air) from an old
>garage that is closing or something. You would have to dig a deep hole in
>the floor - but the difference is well worth it. I put my time in a few gas
>stations, and then a couple of Ford garages in my young & foolish days and I
>have missed the old style lifts since then. I want one ever so
>bad............


Having been in the car repair business for almost 30 years, I've used
lifts of almost every size and configeration. I've had lifts that
would barely lift a VW bug and lifts that would put a 40' motorhome 6'
in the air.
I'm getting ready to build a shop at home also, and IMHO the Rotary
7000lb twin post above ground is the way to go.
First, it's about the cheapest you can get, and way big enough for
homeowner use.
Second, it allows complete access to the underside of the Jeep, unlike
those in-ground single post lifts, so it's no problem to remove the
t/case or tranny.
Third, you can lift anything up to and including an extended cab
pickup. Can't do that with the old style single post without bending
something(driveshaft, frame, etc.)
Fourth, the only special construction you need to install it is that
the slab you put it on has to be 12" thick in the 8' square area where
you will put the lift, and the garage has to be wired for 220.
Besides, I think the EPA has a thing or two to say about the old
style, pnuematic/hydraulic, in-ground lifts(can you say permit?)
--
Old Crow
'82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
'95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51

Old Crow

On Fri, 7 May 2004 21:16:16 -0700, "Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net>
wrote:

>I have been thinking about this for awhile, but have not gotten one yet.
>(would have to do a lot of work to the garage before it would fit) - but
>have seen a few of the $3000.00 lifts - they are very slow & noisy - making
>it very time consuming for those situations during which you go up & down,
>up & down, up & down (I do that a lot). The ideal thing to do, in my
>opinion, would be to find a used 2 post lift (controlled by air) from an old
>garage that is closing or something. You would have to dig a deep hole in
>the floor - but the difference is well worth it. I put my time in a few gas
>stations, and then a couple of Ford garages in my young & foolish days and I
>have missed the old style lifts since then. I want one ever so
>bad............


Having been in the car repair business for almost 30 years, I've used
lifts of almost every size and configeration. I've had lifts that
would barely lift a VW bug and lifts that would put a 40' motorhome 6'
in the air.
I'm getting ready to build a shop at home also, and IMHO the Rotary
7000lb twin post above ground is the way to go.
First, it's about the cheapest you can get, and way big enough for
homeowner use.
Second, it allows complete access to the underside of the Jeep, unlike
those in-ground single post lifts, so it's no problem to remove the
t/case or tranny.
Third, you can lift anything up to and including an extended cab
pickup. Can't do that with the old style single post without bending
something(driveshaft, frame, etc.)
Fourth, the only special construction you need to install it is that
the slab you put it on has to be 12" thick in the 8' square area where
you will put the lift, and the garage has to be wired for 220.
Besides, I think the EPA has a thing or two to say about the old
style, pnuematic/hydraulic, in-ground lifts(can you say permit?)
--
Old Crow
'82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
'95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51

Old Crow

On Fri, 7 May 2004 21:16:16 -0700, "Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net>
wrote:

>I have been thinking about this for awhile, but have not gotten one yet.
>(would have to do a lot of work to the garage before it would fit) - but
>have seen a few of the $3000.00 lifts - they are very slow & noisy - making
>it very time consuming for those situations during which you go up & down,
>up & down, up & down (I do that a lot). The ideal thing to do, in my
>opinion, would be to find a used 2 post lift (controlled by air) from an old
>garage that is closing or something. You would have to dig a deep hole in
>the floor - but the difference is well worth it. I put my time in a few gas
>stations, and then a couple of Ford garages in my young & foolish days and I
>have missed the old style lifts since then. I want one ever so
>bad............


Having been in the car repair business for almost 30 years, I've used
lifts of almost every size and configeration. I've had lifts that
would barely lift a VW bug and lifts that would put a 40' motorhome 6'
in the air.
I'm getting ready to build a shop at home also, and IMHO the Rotary
7000lb twin post above ground is the way to go.
First, it's about the cheapest you can get, and way big enough for
homeowner use.
Second, it allows complete access to the underside of the Jeep, unlike
those in-ground single post lifts, so it's no problem to remove the
t/case or tranny.
Third, you can lift anything up to and including an extended cab
pickup. Can't do that with the old style single post without bending
something(driveshaft, frame, etc.)
Fourth, the only special construction you need to install it is that
the slab you put it on has to be 12" thick in the 8' square area where
you will put the lift, and the garage has to be wired for 220.
Besides, I think the EPA has a thing or two to say about the old
style, pnuematic/hydraulic, in-ground lifts(can you say permit?)
--
Old Crow
'82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
'95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51

Carlo

agree, single post really sucks. Does the rotary move up & down at a
reasonable rate? or do you hit the "up" button, go in the house, have a cup
of coffee, come back & it's still going up?

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"Old Crow" <walliscrow@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:lt8p90to433i58t11adicp3ve654v787s1@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 7 May 2004 21:16:16 -0700, "Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> >I have been thinking about this for awhile, but have not gotten one yet.
> >(would have to do a lot of work to the garage before it would fit) - but
> >have seen a few of the $3000.00 lifts - they are very slow & noisy -
making
> >it very time consuming for those situations during which you go up &
down,
> >up & down, up & down (I do that a lot). The ideal thing to do, in my
> >opinion, would be to find a used 2 post lift (controlled by air) from an
old
> >garage that is closing or something. You would have to dig a deep hole in
> >the floor - but the difference is well worth it. I put my time in a few
gas
> >stations, and then a couple of Ford garages in my young & foolish days
and I
> >have missed the old style lifts since then. I want one ever so
> >bad............
>
>
> Having been in the car repair business for almost 30 years, I've used
> lifts of almost every size and configeration. I've had lifts that
> would barely lift a VW bug and lifts that would put a 40' motorhome 6'
> in the air.
> I'm getting ready to build a shop at home also, and IMHO the Rotary
> 7000lb twin post above ground is the way to go.
> First, it's about the cheapest you can get, and way big enough for
> homeowner use.
> Second, it allows complete access to the underside of the Jeep, unlike
> those in-ground single post lifts, so it's no problem to remove the
> t/case or tranny.
> Third, you can lift anything up to and including an extended cab
> pickup. Can't do that with the old style single post without bending
> something(driveshaft, frame, etc.)
> Fourth, the only special construction you need to install it is that
> the slab you put it on has to be 12" thick in the 8' square area where
> you will put the lift, and the garage has to be wired for 220.
> Besides, I think the EPA has a thing or two to say about the old
> style, pnuematic/hydraulic, in-ground lifts(can you say permit?)
> --
> Old Crow
> '82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
> '95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
> ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
> TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51

Carlo

agree, single post really sucks. Does the rotary move up & down at a
reasonable rate? or do you hit the "up" button, go in the house, have a cup
of coffee, come back & it's still going up?

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"Old Crow" <walliscrow@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:lt8p90to433i58t11adicp3ve654v787s1@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 7 May 2004 21:16:16 -0700, "Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> >I have been thinking about this for awhile, but have not gotten one yet.
> >(would have to do a lot of work to the garage before it would fit) - but
> >have seen a few of the $3000.00 lifts - they are very slow & noisy -
making
> >it very time consuming for those situations during which you go up &
down,
> >up & down, up & down (I do that a lot). The ideal thing to do, in my
> >opinion, would be to find a used 2 post lift (controlled by air) from an
old
> >garage that is closing or something. You would have to dig a deep hole in
> >the floor - but the difference is well worth it. I put my time in a few
gas
> >stations, and then a couple of Ford garages in my young & foolish days
and I
> >have missed the old style lifts since then. I want one ever so
> >bad............
>
>
> Having been in the car repair business for almost 30 years, I've used
> lifts of almost every size and configeration. I've had lifts that
> would barely lift a VW bug and lifts that would put a 40' motorhome 6'
> in the air.
> I'm getting ready to build a shop at home also, and IMHO the Rotary
> 7000lb twin post above ground is the way to go.
> First, it's about the cheapest you can get, and way big enough for
> homeowner use.
> Second, it allows complete access to the underside of the Jeep, unlike
> those in-ground single post lifts, so it's no problem to remove the
> t/case or tranny.
> Third, you can lift anything up to and including an extended cab
> pickup. Can't do that with the old style single post without bending
> something(driveshaft, frame, etc.)
> Fourth, the only special construction you need to install it is that
> the slab you put it on has to be 12" thick in the 8' square area where
> you will put the lift, and the garage has to be wired for 220.
> Besides, I think the EPA has a thing or two to say about the old
> style, pnuematic/hydraulic, in-ground lifts(can you say permit?)
> --
> Old Crow
> '82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
> '95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
> ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
> TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51

Carlo

agree, single post really sucks. Does the rotary move up & down at a
reasonable rate? or do you hit the "up" button, go in the house, have a cup
of coffee, come back & it's still going up?

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"Old Crow" <walliscrow@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:lt8p90to433i58t11adicp3ve654v787s1@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 7 May 2004 21:16:16 -0700, "Carlo" <carlo.jr@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> >I have been thinking about this for awhile, but have not gotten one yet.
> >(would have to do a lot of work to the garage before it would fit) - but
> >have seen a few of the $3000.00 lifts - they are very slow & noisy -
making
> >it very time consuming for those situations during which you go up &
down,
> >up & down, up & down (I do that a lot). The ideal thing to do, in my
> >opinion, would be to find a used 2 post lift (controlled by air) from an
old
> >garage that is closing or something. You would have to dig a deep hole in
> >the floor - but the difference is well worth it. I put my time in a few
gas
> >stations, and then a couple of Ford garages in my young & foolish days
and I
> >have missed the old style lifts since then. I want one ever so
> >bad............
>
>
> Having been in the car repair business for almost 30 years, I've used
> lifts of almost every size and configeration. I've had lifts that
> would barely lift a VW bug and lifts that would put a 40' motorhome 6'
> in the air.
> I'm getting ready to build a shop at home also, and IMHO the Rotary
> 7000lb twin post above ground is the way to go.
> First, it's about the cheapest you can get, and way big enough for
> homeowner use.
> Second, it allows complete access to the underside of the Jeep, unlike
> those in-ground single post lifts, so it's no problem to remove the
> t/case or tranny.
> Third, you can lift anything up to and including an extended cab
> pickup. Can't do that with the old style single post without bending
> something(driveshaft, frame, etc.)
> Fourth, the only special construction you need to install it is that
> the slab you put it on has to be 12" thick in the 8' square area where
> you will put the lift, and the garage has to be wired for 220.
> Besides, I think the EPA has a thing or two to say about the old
> style, pnuematic/hydraulic, in-ground lifts(can you say permit?)
> --
> Old Crow
> '82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
> '95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
> ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
> TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51