Sounds all too familiar. I use a 94 clutch set in mine and the only
way the dealer sells the parts is as a pre-filled unit - master,
plastic pipe, and slave. Advanced Auto has (or had) the individual
master/slave parts when I was swapping out my internal slave unit but
that was 3-4 years ago. The line is held in with a small roll pin on
the cylinder side of the fitting - you can press it out with pliers
and a punch pin but it's a bitch and a half to work with on the master
cylinder - hard to see/reach. I finally got P.O.'d and tacked a piece
of a nail onto the jaws of an old pair of pliers and drilled a hole in
the opposite jaw just to get it out (don't drop it! it's small enough
to be almost impossible to find if you do - and yes, I'm sure about
that <g>).

The line has an o-ring near the end to seal it. It pushes in until
the pin can slide thru past a groove on the line-side fitting. I did
find a local auto supply store that had a re-build kit for both the
master and slave cylinders - this was one that specializes in seals
and gaskets, not your Pep Boys type of store, tho.

On Tue, 21 Sep 2004 00:07:51 UTC selectauserid@aol.com (Smarny) wrote:

> Thanks Bill:
>
> I unbolted the slave which was easy enough, but can see no simple way
> to disconnect the hydraulic line. The manual shows a threaded fitting
> to attach to the slave and master. Mine has a different fitting
> altogether and I can see no way to disconnect it. It sounds to me like
> they want me to replace both as a unit. I found a kit online that
> looks suspiciously like mine. Does this sound familiar?
>
> I'm not opposed to replacing both if I have to. Just wondering.
>
> Thanks
>
> TWR
>
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:<413D3C93.9A286B9C@***.net>...
> > Hi Tom,
> > A bad clutch master cylinder will be intermittent, depending on if
> > the worn out cup catches a charge of fluid or not. You might be able to
> > feel it pump up if you peddle it a couple of times before you attempt to
> > shift gears.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Smarny wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey folks,
> > >
> > > I've got a 6 Cherokee Sport. 4.0, 5-speed, 4WD...
> > >
> > > The problem is that the clutch sometimes won't engage when the pedal
> > > is pushed all the way in.
> > >
> > > Manuals says to 1st check the fluid level in the master cylendar.
> > > It's full.
> > >
> > > Other problems cited are fluid on the clutch plate, throw out bearing,
> > > bad spring etc. Reasonable things to check but before dropping the
> > > tranny???
> > >
> > > Also, I've got some questions...
> > >
> > > The problem is that it is sometimes hard or impossible to shift. The
> > > stick just won't budge. Then I'll do something like turn off the A/C
> > > and all of a sudden, it works.
> > >
> > > Problem solved? Don't use the AC...
> > >
> > > Unfortunately, the problem came back later today with the AC off. I
> > > couldn't get the Jeep out of reverse. I was pushing the clutch pedal
> > > all the way in and the shifter wouldnt move. Actually, the car was
> > > slowly moving backward as if the clutch was barely engaged.
> > >
> > > Out of frustration, I turned off the ignition, released the clutch,
> > > released the break and the car rolled forward in gear. I then turned
> > > on the ignition and the problem was gone...
> > >
> > > Any thoughts or ideas?
> > >
> > > The thing that gets me is that it is intermittant.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Tom


--
Will Honea

 

Sounds all too familiar. I use a 94 clutch set in mine and the only
way the dealer sells the parts is as a pre-filled unit - master,
plastic pipe, and slave. Advanced Auto has (or had) the individual
master/slave parts when I was swapping out my internal slave unit but
that was 3-4 years ago. The line is held in with a small roll pin on
the cylinder side of the fitting - you can press it out with pliers
and a punch pin but it's a bitch and a half to work with on the master
cylinder - hard to see/reach. I finally got P.O.'d and tacked a piece
of a nail onto the jaws of an old pair of pliers and drilled a hole in
the opposite jaw just to get it out (don't drop it! it's small enough
to be almost impossible to find if you do - and yes, I'm sure about
that <g>).

The line has an o-ring near the end to seal it. It pushes in until
the pin can slide thru past a groove on the line-side fitting. I did
find a local auto supply store that had a re-build kit for both the
master and slave cylinders - this was one that specializes in seals
and gaskets, not your Pep Boys type of store, tho.

On Tue, 21 Sep 2004 00:07:51 UTC selectauserid@aol.com (Smarny) wrote:

> Thanks Bill:
>
> I unbolted the slave which was easy enough, but can see no simple way
> to disconnect the hydraulic line. The manual shows a threaded fitting
> to attach to the slave and master. Mine has a different fitting
> altogether and I can see no way to disconnect it. It sounds to me like
> they want me to replace both as a unit. I found a kit online that
> looks suspiciously like mine. Does this sound familiar?
>
> I'm not opposed to replacing both if I have to. Just wondering.
>
> Thanks
>
> TWR
>
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:<413D3C93.9A286B9C@***.net>...
> > Hi Tom,
> > A bad clutch master cylinder will be intermittent, depending on if
> > the worn out cup catches a charge of fluid or not. You might be able to
> > feel it pump up if you peddle it a couple of times before you attempt to
> > shift gears.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Smarny wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey folks,
> > >
> > > I've got a 6 Cherokee Sport. 4.0, 5-speed, 4WD...
> > >
> > > The problem is that the clutch sometimes won't engage when the pedal
> > > is pushed all the way in.
> > >
> > > Manuals says to 1st check the fluid level in the master cylendar.
> > > It's full.
> > >
> > > Other problems cited are fluid on the clutch plate, throw out bearing,
> > > bad spring etc. Reasonable things to check but before dropping the
> > > tranny???
> > >
> > > Also, I've got some questions...
> > >
> > > The problem is that it is sometimes hard or impossible to shift. The
> > > stick just won't budge. Then I'll do something like turn off the A/C
> > > and all of a sudden, it works.
> > >
> > > Problem solved? Don't use the AC...
> > >
> > > Unfortunately, the problem came back later today with the AC off. I
> > > couldn't get the Jeep out of reverse. I was pushing the clutch pedal
> > > all the way in and the shifter wouldnt move. Actually, the car was
> > > slowly moving backward as if the clutch was barely engaged.
> > >
> > > Out of frustration, I turned off the ignition, released the clutch,
> > > released the break and the car rolled forward in gear. I then turned
> > > on the ignition and the problem was gone...
> > >
> > > Any thoughts or ideas?
> > >
> > > The thing that gets me is that it is intermittant.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Tom


--
Will Honea

 

Sounds all too familiar. I use a 94 clutch set in mine and the only
way the dealer sells the parts is as a pre-filled unit - master,
plastic pipe, and slave. Advanced Auto has (or had) the individual
master/slave parts when I was swapping out my internal slave unit but
that was 3-4 years ago. The line is held in with a small roll pin on
the cylinder side of the fitting - you can press it out with pliers
and a punch pin but it's a bitch and a half to work with on the master
cylinder - hard to see/reach. I finally got P.O.'d and tacked a piece
of a nail onto the jaws of an old pair of pliers and drilled a hole in
the opposite jaw just to get it out (don't drop it! it's small enough
to be almost impossible to find if you do - and yes, I'm sure about
that <g>).

The line has an o-ring near the end to seal it. It pushes in until
the pin can slide thru past a groove on the line-side fitting. I did
find a local auto supply store that had a re-build kit for both the
master and slave cylinders - this was one that specializes in seals
and gaskets, not your Pep Boys type of store, tho.

On Tue, 21 Sep 2004 00:07:51 UTC selectauserid@aol.com (Smarny) wrote:

> Thanks Bill:
>
> I unbolted the slave which was easy enough, but can see no simple way
> to disconnect the hydraulic line. The manual shows a threaded fitting
> to attach to the slave and master. Mine has a different fitting
> altogether and I can see no way to disconnect it. It sounds to me like
> they want me to replace both as a unit. I found a kit online that
> looks suspiciously like mine. Does this sound familiar?
>
> I'm not opposed to replacing both if I have to. Just wondering.
>
> Thanks
>
> TWR
>
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:<413D3C93.9A286B9C@***.net>...
> > Hi Tom,
> > A bad clutch master cylinder will be intermittent, depending on if
> > the worn out cup catches a charge of fluid or not. You might be able to
> > feel it pump up if you peddle it a couple of times before you attempt to
> > shift gears.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Smarny wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey folks,
> > >
> > > I've got a 6 Cherokee Sport. 4.0, 5-speed, 4WD...
> > >
> > > The problem is that the clutch sometimes won't engage when the pedal
> > > is pushed all the way in.
> > >
> > > Manuals says to 1st check the fluid level in the master cylendar.
> > > It's full.
> > >
> > > Other problems cited are fluid on the clutch plate, throw out bearing,
> > > bad spring etc. Reasonable things to check but before dropping the
> > > tranny???
> > >
> > > Also, I've got some questions...
> > >
> > > The problem is that it is sometimes hard or impossible to shift. The
> > > stick just won't budge. Then I'll do something like turn off the A/C
> > > and all of a sudden, it works.
> > >
> > > Problem solved? Don't use the AC...
> > >
> > > Unfortunately, the problem came back later today with the AC off. I
> > > couldn't get the Jeep out of reverse. I was pushing the clutch pedal
> > > all the way in and the shifter wouldnt move. Actually, the car was
> > > slowly moving backward as if the clutch was barely engaged.
> > >
> > > Out of frustration, I turned off the ignition, released the clutch,
> > > released the break and the car rolled forward in gear. I then turned
> > > on the ignition and the problem was gone...
> > >
> > > Any thoughts or ideas?
> > >
> > > The thing that gets me is that it is intermittant.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Tom


--
Will Honea

 

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-60iJNbynjF3k@anon.none.net>...
> Sounds all too familiar. I use a 94 clutch set in mine and the only
> way the dealer sells the parts is as a pre-filled unit - master,
> plastic pipe, and slave. Advanced Auto has (or had) the individual
> master/slave parts when I was swapping out my internal slave unit but
> that was 3-4 years ago. The line is held in with a small roll pin on
> the cylinder side of the fitting - you can press it out with pliers
> and a punch pin but it's a bitch and a half to work with on the master
> cylinder - hard to see/reach. I finally got P.O.'d and tacked a piece
> of a nail onto the jaws of an old pair of pliers and drilled a hole in
> the opposite jaw just to get it out (don't drop it! it's small enough
> to be almost impossible to find if you do - and yes, I'm sure about
> that <g>).
>
> The line has an o-ring near the end to seal it. It pushes in until
> the pin can slide thru past a groove on the line-side fitting. I did
> find a local auto supply store that had a re-build kit for both the
> master and slave cylinders - this was one that specializes in seals
> and gaskets, not your Pep Boys type of store, tho.


I replaced both and the problem seems to be resolved.

Crummy system, I think. A bleed valve would be very nice.

Thanks for your suggestions.

TWR

>
> On Tue, 21 Sep 2004 00:07:51 UTC selectauserid@aol.com (Smarny) wrote:
>
> > Thanks Bill:
> >
> > I unbolted the slave which was easy enough, but can see no simple way
> > to disconnect the hydraulic line. The manual shows a threaded fitting
> > to attach to the slave and master. Mine has a different fitting
> > altogether and I can see no way to disconnect it. It sounds to me like
> > they want me to replace both as a unit. I found a kit online that
> > looks suspiciously like mine. Does this sound familiar?
> >
> > I'm not opposed to replacing both if I have to. Just wondering.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > TWR
> >
> >
> > L.W.(ßill) ------ III <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:<413D3C93.9A286B9C@***.net>...
> > > Hi Tom,
> > > A bad clutch master cylinder will be intermittent, depending on if
> > > the worn out cup catches a charge of fluid or not. You might be able to
> > > feel it pump up if you peddle it a couple of times before you attempt to
> > > shift gears.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Smarny wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey folks,
> > > >
> > > > I've got a 6 Cherokee Sport. 4.0, 5-speed, 4WD...
> > > >
> > > > The problem is that the clutch sometimes won't engage when the pedal
> > > > is pushed all the way in.
> > > >
> > > > Manuals says to 1st check the fluid level in the master cylendar.
> > > > It's full.
> > > >
> > > > Other problems cited are fluid on the clutch plate, throw out bearing,
> > > > bad spring etc. Reasonable things to check but before dropping the
> > > > tranny???
> > > >
> > > > Also, I've got some questions...
> > > >
> > > > The problem is that it is sometimes hard or impossible to shift. The
> > > > stick just won't budge. Then I'll do something like turn off the A/C
> > > > and all of a sudden, it works.
> > > >
> > > > Problem solved? Don't use the AC...
> > > >
> > > > Unfortunately, the problem came back later today with the AC off. I
> > > > couldn't get the Jeep out of reverse. I was pushing the clutch pedal
> > > > all the way in and the shifter wouldnt move. Actually, the car was
> > > > slowly moving backward as if the clutch was barely engaged.
> > > >
> > > > Out of frustration, I turned off the ignition, released the clutch,
> > > > released the break and the car rolled forward in gear. I then turned
> > > > on the ignition and the problem was gone...
> > > >
> > > > Any thoughts or ideas?
> > > >
> > > > The thing that gets me is that it is intermittant.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > >
> > > > Tom

 

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-60iJNbynjF3k@anon.none.net>...
> Sounds all too familiar. I use a 94 clutch set in mine and the only
> way the dealer sells the parts is as a pre-filled unit - master,
> plastic pipe, and slave. Advanced Auto has (or had) the individual
> master/slave parts when I was swapping out my internal slave unit but
> that was 3-4 years ago. The line is held in with a small roll pin on
> the cylinder side of the fitting - you can press it out with pliers
> and a punch pin but it's a bitch and a half to work with on the master
> cylinder - hard to see/reach. I finally got P.O.'d and tacked a piece
> of a nail onto the jaws of an old pair of pliers and drilled a hole in
> the opposite jaw just to get it out (don't drop it! it's small enough
> to be almost impossible to find if you do - and yes, I'm sure about
> that <g>).
>
> The line has an o-ring near the end to seal it. It pushes in until
> the pin can slide thru past a groove on the line-side fitting. I did
> find a local auto supply store that had a re-build kit for both the
> master and slave cylinders - this was one that specializes in seals
> and gaskets, not your Pep Boys type of store, tho.


I replaced both and the problem seems to be resolved.

Crummy system, I think. A bleed valve would be very nice.

Thanks for your suggestions.

TWR

>
> On Tue, 21 Sep 2004 00:07:51 UTC selectauserid@aol.com (Smarny) wrote:
>
> > Thanks Bill:
> >
> > I unbolted the slave which was easy enough, but can see no simple way
> > to disconnect the hydraulic line. The manual shows a threaded fitting
> > to attach to the slave and master. Mine has a different fitting
> > altogether and I can see no way to disconnect it. It sounds to me like
> > they want me to replace both as a unit. I found a kit online that
> > looks suspiciously like mine. Does this sound familiar?
> >
> > I'm not opposed to replacing both if I have to. Just wondering.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > TWR
> >
> >
> > L.W.(ßill) ------ III <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:<413D3C93.9A286B9C@***.net>...
> > > Hi Tom,
> > > A bad clutch master cylinder will be intermittent, depending on if
> > > the worn out cup catches a charge of fluid or not. You might be able to
> > > feel it pump up if you peddle it a couple of times before you attempt to
> > > shift gears.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Smarny wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey folks,
> > > >
> > > > I've got a 6 Cherokee Sport. 4.0, 5-speed, 4WD...
> > > >
> > > > The problem is that the clutch sometimes won't engage when the pedal
> > > > is pushed all the way in.
> > > >
> > > > Manuals says to 1st check the fluid level in the master cylendar.
> > > > It's full.
> > > >
> > > > Other problems cited are fluid on the clutch plate, throw out bearing,
> > > > bad spring etc. Reasonable things to check but before dropping the
> > > > tranny???
> > > >
> > > > Also, I've got some questions...
> > > >
> > > > The problem is that it is sometimes hard or impossible to shift. The
> > > > stick just won't budge. Then I'll do something like turn off the A/C
> > > > and all of a sudden, it works.
> > > >
> > > > Problem solved? Don't use the AC...
> > > >
> > > > Unfortunately, the problem came back later today with the AC off. I
> > > > couldn't get the Jeep out of reverse. I was pushing the clutch pedal
> > > > all the way in and the shifter wouldnt move. Actually, the car was
> > > > slowly moving backward as if the clutch was barely engaged.
> > > >
> > > > Out of frustration, I turned off the ignition, released the clutch,
> > > > released the break and the car rolled forward in gear. I then turned
> > > > on the ignition and the problem was gone...
> > > >
> > > > Any thoughts or ideas?
> > > >
> > > > The thing that gets me is that it is intermittant.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > >
> > > > Tom

 

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-60iJNbynjF3k@anon.none.net>...
> Sounds all too familiar. I use a 94 clutch set in mine and the only
> way the dealer sells the parts is as a pre-filled unit - master,
> plastic pipe, and slave. Advanced Auto has (or had) the individual
> master/slave parts when I was swapping out my internal slave unit but
> that was 3-4 years ago. The line is held in with a small roll pin on
> the cylinder side of the fitting - you can press it out with pliers
> and a punch pin but it's a bitch and a half to work with on the master
> cylinder - hard to see/reach. I finally got P.O.'d and tacked a piece
> of a nail onto the jaws of an old pair of pliers and drilled a hole in
> the opposite jaw just to get it out (don't drop it! it's small enough
> to be almost impossible to find if you do - and yes, I'm sure about
> that <g>).
>
> The line has an o-ring near the end to seal it. It pushes in until
> the pin can slide thru past a groove on the line-side fitting. I did
> find a local auto supply store that had a re-build kit for both the
> master and slave cylinders - this was one that specializes in seals
> and gaskets, not your Pep Boys type of store, tho.


I replaced both and the problem seems to be resolved.

Crummy system, I think. A bleed valve would be very nice.

Thanks for your suggestions.

TWR

>
> On Tue, 21 Sep 2004 00:07:51 UTC selectauserid@aol.com (Smarny) wrote:
>
> > Thanks Bill:
> >
> > I unbolted the slave which was easy enough, but can see no simple way
> > to disconnect the hydraulic line. The manual shows a threaded fitting
> > to attach to the slave and master. Mine has a different fitting
> > altogether and I can see no way to disconnect it. It sounds to me like
> > they want me to replace both as a unit. I found a kit online that
> > looks suspiciously like mine. Does this sound familiar?
> >
> > I'm not opposed to replacing both if I have to. Just wondering.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > TWR
> >
> >
> > L.W.(ßill) ------ III <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:<413D3C93.9A286B9C@***.net>...
> > > Hi Tom,
> > > A bad clutch master cylinder will be intermittent, depending on if
> > > the worn out cup catches a charge of fluid or not. You might be able to
> > > feel it pump up if you peddle it a couple of times before you attempt to
> > > shift gears.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Smarny wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey folks,
> > > >
> > > > I've got a 6 Cherokee Sport. 4.0, 5-speed, 4WD...
> > > >
> > > > The problem is that the clutch sometimes won't engage when the pedal
> > > > is pushed all the way in.
> > > >
> > > > Manuals says to 1st check the fluid level in the master cylendar.
> > > > It's full.
> > > >
> > > > Other problems cited are fluid on the clutch plate, throw out bearing,
> > > > bad spring etc. Reasonable things to check but before dropping the
> > > > tranny???
> > > >
> > > > Also, I've got some questions...
> > > >
> > > > The problem is that it is sometimes hard or impossible to shift. The
> > > > stick just won't budge. Then I'll do something like turn off the A/C
> > > > and all of a sudden, it works.
> > > >
> > > > Problem solved? Don't use the AC...
> > > >
> > > > Unfortunately, the problem came back later today with the AC off. I
> > > > couldn't get the Jeep out of reverse. I was pushing the clutch pedal
> > > > all the way in and the shifter wouldnt move. Actually, the car was
> > > > slowly moving backward as if the clutch was barely engaged.
> > > >
> > > > Out of frustration, I turned off the ignition, released the clutch,
> > > > released the break and the car rolled forward in gear. I then turned
> > > > on the ignition and the problem was gone...
> > > >
> > > > Any thoughts or ideas?
> > > >
> > > > The thing that gets me is that it is intermittant.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > >
> > > > Tom

 

Thanks for the follow up.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Smarny wrote:
>
> I replaced both and the problem seems to be resolved.
>
> Crummy system, I think. A bleed valve would be very nice.
>
> Thanks for your suggestions.
>
> TWR

 

Thanks for the follow up.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Smarny wrote:
>
> I replaced both and the problem seems to be resolved.
>
> Crummy system, I think. A bleed valve would be very nice.
>
> Thanks for your suggestions.
>
> TWR

 

Thanks for the follow up.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Smarny wrote:
>
> I replaced both and the problem seems to be resolved.
>
> Crummy system, I think. A bleed valve would be very nice.
>
> Thanks for your suggestions.
>
> TWR