Will Honea

On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

>
> "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net...
> > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
> > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
> > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and
> > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of
> > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no
> > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and
> > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the
> > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> > > > bleed first try.
> > >
> > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!
> > >
> > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless
> > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
> > > These units don't seem to fail very often.
> >
> > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local
> > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the
> > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely
> > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was
> > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This
> > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15
> > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line
> > anyway.
>
> I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but
> had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states
> that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that
> it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled &
> bled.

Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to
go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to
route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't
get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners
and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust
pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the
swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the
mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto
had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and
the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a
replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty
specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and
valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc
during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if
you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to
compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything
out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out.
Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

--
Will Honea

Will Honea

On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

>
> "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net...
> > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
> > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
> > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and
> > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of
> > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no
> > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and
> > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the
> > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> > > > bleed first try.
> > >
> > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!
> > >
> > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless
> > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
> > > These units don't seem to fail very often.
> >
> > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local
> > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the
> > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely
> > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was
> > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This
> > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15
> > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line
> > anyway.
>
> I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but
> had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states
> that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that
> it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled &
> bled.

Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to
go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to
route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't
get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners
and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust
pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the
swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the
mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto
had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and
the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a
replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty
specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and
valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc
during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if
you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to
compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything
out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out.
Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

--
Will Honea

Will Honea

On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

>
> "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net...
> > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
> > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
> > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and
> > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of
> > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no
> > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and
> > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the
> > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> > > > bleed first try.
> > >
> > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!
> > >
> > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless
> > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
> > > These units don't seem to fail very often.
> >
> > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local
> > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the
> > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely
> > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was
> > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This
> > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15
> > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line
> > anyway.
>
> I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but
> had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states
> that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that
> it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled &
> bled.

Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to
go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to
route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't
get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners
and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust
pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the
swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the
mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto
had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and
the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a
replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty
specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and
valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc
during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if
you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to
compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything
out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out.
Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

--
Will Honea

Jerry McG

"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-LVdTdGHomeWo@anon.none.net...
> On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
> <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>
> >
> > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net...
> > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
> > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw
up
> > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out
and
> > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the
top of
> > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with
no
> > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away
and
> > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from
the
> > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> > > > > bleed first try.
> > > >
> > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!
> > > >
> > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some
stainless
> > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
> > > > These units don't seem to fail very often.
> > >
> > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local
> > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the
> > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely
> > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was
> > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This
> > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15
> > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line
> > > anyway.
> >
> > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item
but
> > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states
> > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and
that
> > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled &
> > bled.
>
> Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to
> go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to
> route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't
> get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners
> and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust
> pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the
> swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the
> mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto
> had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and
> the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a
> replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty
> specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and
> valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc
> during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if
> you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to
> compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything
> out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out.
> Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work
on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The
systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure
it ought to be flushed.

Jerry McG

"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-LVdTdGHomeWo@anon.none.net...
> On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
> <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>
> >
> > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net...
> > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
> > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw
up
> > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out
and
> > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the
top of
> > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with
no
> > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away
and
> > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from
the
> > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> > > > > bleed first try.
> > > >
> > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!
> > > >
> > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some
stainless
> > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
> > > > These units don't seem to fail very often.
> > >
> > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local
> > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the
> > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely
> > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was
> > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This
> > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15
> > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line
> > > anyway.
> >
> > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item
but
> > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states
> > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and
that
> > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled &
> > bled.
>
> Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to
> go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to
> route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't
> get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners
> and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust
> pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the
> swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the
> mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto
> had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and
> the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a
> replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty
> specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and
> valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc
> during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if
> you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to
> compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything
> out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out.
> Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work
on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The
systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure
it ought to be flushed.

Jerry McG

"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-LVdTdGHomeWo@anon.none.net...
> On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
> <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>
> >
> > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net...
> > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
> > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw
up
> > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out
and
> > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the
top of
> > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with
no
> > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away
and
> > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from
the
> > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> > > > > bleed first try.
> > > >
> > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!
> > > >
> > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some
stainless
> > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
> > > > These units don't seem to fail very often.
> > >
> > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local
> > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the
> > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely
> > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was
> > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This
> > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15
> > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line
> > > anyway.
> >
> > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item
but
> > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states
> > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and
that
> > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled &
> > bled.
>
> Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to
> go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to
> route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't
> get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners
> and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust
> pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the
> swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the
> mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto
> had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and
> the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a
> replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty
> specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and
> valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc
> during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if
> you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to
> compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything
> out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out.
> Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work
on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The
systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure
it ought to be flushed.

Jerry McG

"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-LVdTdGHomeWo@anon.none.net...
> On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
> <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>
> >
> > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net...
> > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
> > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw
up
> > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out
and
> > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the
top of
> > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with
no
> > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away
and
> > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from
the
> > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> > > > > bleed first try.
> > > >
> > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!
> > > >
> > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some
stainless
> > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
> > > > These units don't seem to fail very often.
> > >
> > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local
> > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the
> > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely
> > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was
> > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This
> > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15
> > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line
> > > anyway.
> >
> > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item
but
> > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states
> > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and
that
> > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled &
> > bled.
>
> Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to
> go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to
> route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't
> get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners
> and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust
> pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the
> swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the
> mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto
> had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and
> the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a
> replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty
> specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and
> valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc
> during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if
> you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to
> compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything
> out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out.
> Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work
on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The
systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure
it ought to be flushed.

Will Honea

On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 12:15:17 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

>
> Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work
> on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The
> systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure
> it ought to be flushed.

That, and the fact it's black and no longer transparebt when you check
<g>?

I tried using a reverse pressure bleed from the bottom since I have a
couple of drawers full of misc. adapters and fitting accumulated over
the years. Never did get the mc to set up right - I think there is a
resevoir chamber in there similar to some of the old Bendix brake
masters that never gets flushed/purged except via a true bench bleed.

--
Will Honea

Will Honea

On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 12:15:17 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

>
> Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work
> on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The
> systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure
> it ought to be flushed.

That, and the fact it's black and no longer transparebt when you check
<g>?

I tried using a reverse pressure bleed from the bottom since I have a
couple of drawers full of misc. adapters and fitting accumulated over
the years. Never did get the mc to set up right - I think there is a
resevoir chamber in there similar to some of the old Bendix brake
masters that never gets flushed/purged except via a true bench bleed.

--
Will Honea

Will Honea

On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 12:15:17 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

>
> Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work
> on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The
> systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure
> it ought to be flushed.

That, and the fact it's black and no longer transparebt when you check
<g>?

I tried using a reverse pressure bleed from the bottom since I have a
couple of drawers full of misc. adapters and fitting accumulated over
the years. Never did get the mc to set up right - I think there is a
resevoir chamber in there similar to some of the old Bendix brake
masters that never gets flushed/purged except via a true bench bleed.

--
Will Honea