Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
 

On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

>
> "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net...
> > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
> > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
> > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and
> > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of
> > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no
> > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and
> > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the
> > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> > > > bleed first try.
> > >
> > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!
> > >
> > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless
> > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
> > > These units don't seem to fail very often.
> >
> > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local
> > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the
> > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely
> > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was
> > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This
> > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15
> > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line
> > anyway.
>
> I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but
> had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states
> that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that
> it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled &
> bled.

Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to
go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to
route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't
get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners
and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust
pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the
swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the
mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto
had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and
the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a
replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty
specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and
valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc
during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if
you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to
compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything
out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out.
Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

--
Will Honea

Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
 

On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

>
> "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net...
> > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
> > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
> > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and
> > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of
> > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no
> > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and
> > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the
> > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> > > > bleed first try.
> > >
> > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!
> > >
> > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless
> > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
> > > These units don't seem to fail very often.
> >
> > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local
> > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the
> > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely
> > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was
> > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This
> > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15
> > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line
> > anyway.
>
> I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but
> had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states
> that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that
> it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled &
> bled.

Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to
go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to
route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't
get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners
and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust
pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the
swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the
mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto
had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and
the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a
replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty
specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and
valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc
during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if
you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to
compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything
out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out.
Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

--
Will Honea

Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
 

On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

>
> "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net...
> > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
> > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
> > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and
> > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of
> > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no
> > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and
> > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the
> > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> > > > bleed first try.
> > >
> > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!
> > >
> > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless
> > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
> > > These units don't seem to fail very often.
> >
> > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local
> > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the
> > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely
> > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was
> > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This
> > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15
> > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line
> > anyway.
>
> I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but
> had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states
> that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that
> it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled &
> bled.

Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to
go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to
route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't
get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners
and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust
pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the
swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the
mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto
had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and
the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a
replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty
specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and
valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc
during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if
you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to
compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything
out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out.
Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

--
Will Honea

Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
 

"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-LVdTdGHomeWo@anon.none.net...
> On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
> <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>
> >
> > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net...
> > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
> > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw
up
> > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out
and
> > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the
top of
> > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with
no
> > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away
and
> > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from
the
> > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> > > > > bleed first try.
> > > >
> > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!
> > > >
> > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some
stainless
> > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
> > > > These units don't seem to fail very often.
> > >
> > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local
> > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the
> > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely
> > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was
> > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This
> > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15
> > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line
> > > anyway.
> >
> > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item
but
> > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states
> > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and
that
> > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled &
> > bled.
>
> Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to
> go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to
> route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't
> get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners
> and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust
> pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the
> swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the
> mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto
> had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and
> the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a
> replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty
> specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and
> valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc
> during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if
> you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to
> compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything
> out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out.
> Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work
on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The
systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure
it ought to be flushed.

Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
 

"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-LVdTdGHomeWo@anon.none.net...
> On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
> <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>
> >
> > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net...
> > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
> > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw
up
> > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out
and
> > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the
top of
> > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with
no
> > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away
and
> > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from
the
> > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> > > > > bleed first try.
> > > >
> > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!
> > > >
> > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some
stainless
> > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
> > > > These units don't seem to fail very often.
> > >
> > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local
> > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the
> > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely
> > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was
> > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This
> > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15
> > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line
> > > anyway.
> >
> > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item
but
> > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states
> > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and
that
> > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled &
> > bled.
>
> Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to
> go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to
> route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't
> get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners
> and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust
> pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the
> swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the
> mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto
> had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and
> the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a
> replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty
> specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and
> valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc
> during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if
> you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to
> compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything
> out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out.
> Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work
on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The
systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure
it ought to be flushed.

Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
 

"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-LVdTdGHomeWo@anon.none.net...
> On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
> <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>
> >
> > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net...
> > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
> > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw
up
> > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out
and
> > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the
top of
> > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with
no
> > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away
and
> > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from
the
> > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> > > > > bleed first try.
> > > >
> > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!
> > > >
> > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some
stainless
> > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
> > > > These units don't seem to fail very often.
> > >
> > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local
> > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the
> > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely
> > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was
> > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This
> > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15
> > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line
> > > anyway.
> >
> > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item
but
> > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states
> > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and
that
> > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled &
> > bled.
>
> Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to
> go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to
> route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't
> get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners
> and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust
> pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the
> swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the
> mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto
> had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and
> the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a
> replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty
> specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and
> valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc
> during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if
> you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to
> compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything
> out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out.
> Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work
on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The
systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure
it ought to be flushed.

Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
 

"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-LVdTdGHomeWo@anon.none.net...
> On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
> <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>
> >
> > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net...
> > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
> > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw
up
> > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out
and
> > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the
top of
> > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with
no
> > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away
and
> > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from
the
> > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> > > > > bleed first try.
> > > >
> > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!
> > > >
> > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some
stainless
> > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
> > > > These units don't seem to fail very often.
> > >
> > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local
> > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the
> > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely
> > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was
> > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This
> > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15
> > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line
> > > anyway.
> >
> > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item
but
> > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states
> > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and
that
> > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled &
> > bled.
>
> Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to
> go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to
> route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't
> get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners
> and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust
> pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the
> swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the
> mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto
> had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and
> the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a
> replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty
> specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and
> valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc
> during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if
> you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to
> compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything
> out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out.
> Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little.

Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work
on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The
systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure
it ought to be flushed.

Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
 

On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 12:15:17 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

>
> Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work
> on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The
> systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure
> it ought to be flushed.

That, and the fact it's black and no longer transparebt when you check
<g>?

I tried using a reverse pressure bleed from the bottom since I have a
couple of drawers full of misc. adapters and fitting accumulated over
the years. Never did get the mc to set up right - I think there is a
resevoir chamber in there similar to some of the old Bendix brake
masters that never gets flushed/purged except via a true bench bleed.

--
Will Honea

Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
 

On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 12:15:17 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

>
> Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work
> on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The
> systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure
> it ought to be flushed.

That, and the fact it's black and no longer transparebt when you check
<g>?

I tried using a reverse pressure bleed from the bottom since I have a
couple of drawers full of misc. adapters and fitting accumulated over
the years. Never did get the mc to set up right - I think there is a
resevoir chamber in there similar to some of the old Bendix brake
masters that never gets flushed/purged except via a true bench bleed.

--
Will Honea

Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
 

On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 12:15:17 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

>
> Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work
> on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The
> systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure
> it ought to be flushed.

That, and the fact it's black and no longer transparebt when you check
<g>?

I tried using a reverse pressure bleed from the bottom since I have a
couple of drawers full of misc. adapters and fitting accumulated over
the years. Never did get the mc to set up right - I think there is a
resevoir chamber in there similar to some of the old Bendix brake
masters that never gets flushed/purged except via a true bench bleed.

--
Will Honea